Explore Three Island Jewels of the Ionian Sea: Kefalonia, Lefkada, and Ithaca, Greece

The Trip

Rare and awe-inspiring when viewed from land, sea, or air, these neighboring island jewels share a history, time-honored cultural, and breath-taking natural settings that can astonish visitors with their charm and memorable impressions. But, each island also features individual characteristics, and each rewards the explorer at each turn, every day. These islands have been settled for many thousands of years, and are the home of Mycenaean era ruins, including the Ithacan fortress “castle” of Odysseus, the Homeric Epic hero. Our local Greek and English-speaking professorial guide will convey to us the archaeological facts behind the Epic as well as the history of various other villages, castles, fortresses, monasteries, and churches on the three islands.

The profound, rich history of the islands extends from prior to the Bronze Age, through the Classical and Pan-Hellenic periods, the Byzantine era, the Venetians, the occupation of the Ottoman Empire, and the events of the 20th Century. We will see evidence of each period. Archaeological evidence suggests these islands have been settled for 20,000 years.

The islands are set in an historical gateway from Adriatic Sea ports of Italy and Western Europe to mainland Greece, to the Aegean Sea, the Middle East, and Turkey. Sea-faring Venetian merchants protected their investments from marauding pirates and left behind remnants of their occupation.

So, imagine: a present day of hiking and exploring in a landscape of wide-ranging vistas, filled with historical information and images of these distant times, then capped by an evening of conversation, Greek cuisine, and music filling the air in sea-side villages. All of these impressions will intermix and merge as we explore each island and interact with the local Greeks.  The past and present will meet under sunlight and twilight.

Greek history will come alive when we visit Greek National and other museums, monasteries, castles, and ancient walled cities. Our trip-long guide, degreed in archeology and philology, is deeply experienced with the history and culture of these, his native islands. He has for decades worked with and hosted historical and archeological authorities from around the world.

Important note: About Greek Orthodox Christianity and our visit to religious sites, to understand Greeks and approximately the last 600 hundred years of Greek culture, one must understand the pivotal role the Church filled during four centuries of Ottoman Empire occupation during which the Greek government and culture were suppressed; however, the Church was permitted to continue and therefore was able to sustain the people and, just as importantly, preserve the culture until Greek independence of 1821.

The poetry, music, and customs of Greece will be on full display in every village and historical site we visit. In addition, you’ll learn about wine, olive oil, and goat-cheese making from local artisans. Sitting in seaside cafés, watching sunlight setting on the cerulean waters of the Ionian Sea is unforgettable. The islands’ non-human inhabitants -- cats, goats, donkeys, mourning doves and songbirds, roosters, hens, sheep, and fish life -- are more than scenery: they are cohabitants whose rights and roles are respected by the islanders. Don’t be surprised by the ubiquitous presence of cats -- they provide a valuable predatory service, are beloved and respected.

These lightly visited islands near to one another reduces ferry travel and allow for more time to explore inland; and yet, these short crossings on the cerulean Ionian Sea will give us the pleasure of viewing passages that interconnect the islands. Our interisland ferry rides will be around 30 to 40 minutes each, which is approximately the same length as each occasional on-land bus ride.

For native Greeks, these islands are distinctive and special. They are τα πράσινα νησιά -- the Green Islands -- and are as rugged as was the warrior king Odysseus, and yet alive with delicate spring flowers and the scent of pines. Create enduring memories on the hikes, tours, strolls in the villages and seafronts, and engaging the island life.

Our daily, exploratory hikes across highlands and lowlands will feature elevation gains from the water’s edge and descents from mountain spines to historic village centers. With various trail lengths, some originating near our accommodations, daily hikes will reveal new characteristics of the specific island. During the hikes, participants will experience the rugged and varied terrain and the islands’ villages that hang on hillsides. We will cross mountain spines, olive-tree fields, goat-filled pastures, fig trees ladened with budding fruit, monasteries and churches, and ruins of ancient villages to which hundreds of years ago residents fled upland from marauding invaders. Trails often parallel farming-terrace retaining walls built many hundreds of years ago. During these hikes, we will return to our era to talk about land management and conservation as we cross historical and cultural landscapes.

Day 1: Our trip begins at 4:00 PM at our hotel in Argostoli, Kefalonia. We will convene for a short meeting to reacquaint ourselves and to again review the trip itinerary, specifically, Days 1 and 2, before walking to a restaurant for our first meal together. (Our first group meeting will be via a video call one month in advance of the trip to prepare us for the adventures.)  After dinner, time permitting, we may stroll across the De Bosset Bridge, the world’s largest island-centered stone bridge, before returning to our nearby hotel, all within scenic walking distance.

Day 2: Early breakfast and conversation at a seaside restaurant will gradually prepare us for the trip and our first day’s itinerary. We will walk 1.5 miles along the harbor front and cross over to the .5-mile uphill pathway that leads to the ancient Acropolis of Krani. The 3 hour guided walk/ hike and tour will transport us back in time to life from present day Argostoli to a walled fortress and ancient “city”. We will walk past the ruins and return to present day Argostoli for a light lunch and refreshments. In the afternoon, we will tour the Kefalonia Archaeological Museum before our dinner at a traditional, seaside Greek restaurant. This evening is given over to rest or for a stroll through scenic Argostoli.

Day 3: Another early breakfast precedes a 20 to 25-minute bus ride that begins our journey across the Island and first stop at the historic Orthodox Monastery of Saint Gerasimos, the patron Saint of Kefalonia. Our guide will explain the cultural and social significance of the Monastery. From this location, we will be able to see our next stop, the Venetian Castle of Saint George, a Byzantine fortress/city that was sustained through Turkish rule and to the Venetians. This peak castle ruin, whose structure is still well-defined, provides a panoramic view of the surrounding valleys that nourished the occupants of this city and fortress. A short walk from the Castle will lead us to our lunch restaurant and its balcony viewpoint of verdant valleys. After savoring the food and views, we begin another short ride to the top of Mt. Aenos National Park, the highest peak of the Ionian Islands. Our bus will drop us at the terminus of the road, and we will hike with little elevation change for about 2.5 hours across the top of the forested ridge that features arresting views of the coastline one mile below us. After pausing for conversation, we will continue our bus ride to the port of Sami, register at our hotel, and enjoy a short walk to a waiting harbor-side restaurant.

Day 4: Our post-breakfast itinerary begins with a visit to the well-organized and informative Greek historical museum of Sami and then the adjacent Holy Church of the Assumption of the Virgin. After edifying tours that highlight various aspects of Greek culture, we will walk past the ruin of an unearthed Roman bath house, then onward to a hidden upland trail (about 2 miles roundtrip) to the ancient acropolis of Sami to examine the ruins. After this two to three-hour hike and tour, we return to Sami, pick up our carry-out lunches, and drive to Karavomilos Lake. The artificial lake is surrounded by a barrier that pools fresh water mere meters from the sea. As such, it contains freshwater life and emits a peaceful vibe adjacent to the lapping sea waves, a contrast of ecosystems and a topic of conservation. This will be our “takeaway” lunch setting, giving us a brief but reflective period to sit or to stroll along the extended beachfront winding a return to Sami. We then take a short drive to explore the 150-million-year-old Drogarati Cave—walk into its depth, feel its humidity, marvel at its stalactites, and learn about its geological history and mystery. An early return to Sami will give you time to relax before dinner, walk the town. Dinner this evening is on your own, with new friends, or as an entire group.

Day 5: Following breakfast in Sami at a traditional Greek café filled with local citizens, our bus will transport us to Fiskardo village on the northeast coast of Kefalonia, with its direct line of sight to Ithaca. Fiskardo, an area of human habitation for 20,000 years, is the most scenic port in Kefalonia and all of Ionia. As proof, cultures from the Bronze age through the Romans, the Byzantines, the Turks, the Venetians, the English, and to the present-day mogul Bill Gates and actor Tom Hanks (whose wife’s family has a connection to the Island) have found respite there. After checking in at our hotel and lunch in the hotel courtyard, we will cover several short, level hikes of .5 to 3 miles around the village that reveal the history of it—from homes and churches to lighthouses to a Roman cemetery (this site on Day 5 or 6). A relaxing late afternoon/early evening will provide time to dine and to explore this scenic, well-maintained village. And, of course, to lounge in a café seaside and enjoy the views eastward, toward Ithaca, and to the north, Lefkada, our next island for discovery.

Day 6: A relaxing morning in Fiskardo precedes our noon ferry to Vasiliki on the island of Lefkada (or Lefkas).  We will merge breakfast and lunch into brunch. After the 30-40 ride, we will register at our hotel, drop bags, and begin to explore the town. A winding hike through the town and upwards to the ancient village of Kondarena will give us a view of the harbor and bay. Upon return, you can cruise the town shops and cafes before we convene for a sumptuous dinner seaside.

Day 7: After breakfast in Vasiliki, we drive north to the Island’s capital, Lefkada Town. An historian could successfully argue that Lefkada has the most complicated history of the Ionian Islands due to its tenuous physical connection to mainland Greece. It is the perfect spot to begin exploring the Island. Once a peninsula, the Island was separated by Corinthians in the 7th century BC from the mainland but is reconnected to it via a narrow roadway. Competing cultures, eastern and western, have vied for economic, political, and cultural influence of the Island and surrounding region. Our tour will partially explore that history. It will begin at the land bridge and an ancient castle that guards that Town’s entrance. We will tour the Town and the Archeological Museum of Lefkada before our late afternoon return ride to Vasiliki. But, before we return we’ll detour near to a classy winery to see its processes and sample its vintages.

Day 8: Our last day on Lefkada begins with a seaside breakfast and coffee and then a bus ride to the seaport of Nidri on the Island’s eastern coast. Two hikes await us: a 2-mile upland and return route to an ancient monastery along a winding route to high-point sea view. The other is to an easy 1-mile round trip to an inland Waterfalls of Nidri or Dimossari Waterfall, a special aspect of this water-rich island. We may dine in Nidri seaside before returning to Vasiliki and our hotel or dine in Vasiliki after our return ride. Either option offers complimentary benefits, and will be a decision based on the group’s preference.

Day 9: A seaside breakfast and easy morning in Vasiliki, Kefalonia, precedes our 30-40 minute, 11 AM return ferry to Fiskardo, Kefalonia. We will take with us a boxed/bagged lunch. Upon arrival, we board a bus for a tour of the western side of this, the 6th largest island in the Greek archipelago, and largest of the Ionian Islands. A 35-minute bus ride will transport us to the Assos Peninsula. We will explore the area and its renowned, huge, and impressive, Venetian castle/fortification anchored into a commanding hilltop overlooking the Ionian Sea. Walking up the long winding paver-ed road to the fortress and exploring it and returning will cover about 4 miles, 800 ft elevation variance, and requiring about 3 hours. A long walk, but worth the effort to explore and reimagine the life in this historic, impressive landmark. Fresh lemonade or other drinks on return to town will revive us prior to boarding our bus for a continuing tour of the coastline. As we continue to our destination, the port of Sami, we will stop at a high-point vista to one of the best ranked beaches in the world, Myrtos, also made famous in the movie, Captain Corelli’s Mandolin. Our day is capped with an evening dinner in Sami on your own or with a group followed by an early closing of the day at our hotel.

Day 10: We rise very early to walk 10 minutes to the 30 to 40-minute ferry ride from Sami, Kefalonia to Piso Aetos, Ithaca. On arrival, after a brief but eye-opening winding bus ride to the village of Stavros -- the crossroad of northern Ithaca -- we will secure our luggage and break-the-fast at our hotel prior to beginning the day’s exploration. A short, guided presentation will precede a brief drive to the ruins of the fortress castle of Odysseus and a 1.5-hour tour. From there, we will vertically hike roughly .75 of a mile along overgrown but still visible pathways and stairways to the village of Exogi -- translation: off the Earth. Several stunning, photo-worthy vistas on the village walkways precede our stop for refreshments at a local restaurant that rests on the side of the mountain. There we will have a guided tour of an olive oil making shop. After a refreshing lunch, we begin a winding .75 mile walk through the village and toward a 1.5 mile generally horizonal pathway that leads to Paliokastro and the Rousano Plateau, which affords us scenic views of the ancient sunken port of Polis, the Ithaca Channel, and even Fiskardo, Kefalonia.
From the Plateau, we descend the trail, cross the Trelagkada plain, winding upwards for a .75-mile return to Stavros and our hotel and evening activities. About a 35-minute hike.

Day 11: After breakfast at our hotel, a bus will transport us to the Katharon Monastery for a brief tour of this active Orthodox Christian center. From the Monastery grounds at 1500 ft. and past the always ubiquitous goats, we begin our 510 ft. ascent of Mt. Nirito. Not reaching the ridge, we will detour-hike for 2 miles along the eastern flank, descending the same elevation to the village of Anogi—on top of the earth. We will pause for refreshments before beginning an easy, downslope, 3.12-mile hike to the picturesque, yacht-mooring village of Kioni, a port of visitation for the pop star Madonna and other world traveling individuals. Lunch and refreshment on a rooftop café will invigorate us as will the views of this horseshoe-shaped, sunlight-shimmering harbor.

After pausing for a casual, individual stroll through the shops and pathways of Kioni, we will board a bus for a return ride to Stavros, driving along the winding, eastern coastline road that links Kioni to Frikes harbor village, and then abruptly tangents up road to Stavros. An early dinner and relaxing evening in Stavros will be complemented by a local musician’s performance of traditional Greek songs.

Day 12: After breakfast our guide will tour us through two of three Stavros museums to view archeological evidence of Bronze Age Ithaca and the land of the Homeric warrior king, Odysseus. In them you will see archeological evidence that leads one to understand that at the heart of this Greek, Homeric, and world-influencing myth with its fantastical elements lives the human tale of a warrior-king, his family, and his kingdom.
Insightful commentary follows our footsteps. Afterwards, we progress our tour with a 20-minute ride, crossing the steep “neck” of the Island that affords views of eastern and western coastal waters and to the southern portion of Ithaca.  Our first stop will be the ancient Acropolis of Alalkomenai at Aetos and exploration of its distinctive history. To reach the summit requires about 50 minutes of upward hiking to cover .75 miles and 700 ft. elevation gain; but—the views on top are worth the effort. While there, we will learn about its significance for the Greek people as a strategic and cultural location.

Following this invigorating hike, we reboard the bus for the breathtaking 10-minute ride to the harbor and Island capital of Vathi to register at our hotel and tour town. Shop visits and relaxation or harbor village walks will fill the afternoon hours prior to our evening meal and relaxing stay at a seaside hotel.

Day 13: A seaside breakfast will energize us for a day of hiking above Vathi to visit mythical sites. We will walk 1.5 miles from town, through village streets, and along a pathway populated by various domesticated animals that lead to the Cave of Nymphs. Oral and written legend records that the Goddess Athena instructed Odysseus--returning home after a 20-year absence--to hide the treasures given to him by the Phaeacians. We then will begin a 1.2 mile, horizonal pathway hike to Perachori village that sits on the eastern flank of Mt. Nerouvoulo, overlooking Vathi harbor. After a lunch break, a bus ride will transport us to the trailhead of our final excursion, a 2 mile round trip with elevation change of 600 ft. to another location written into myth: Eumaeus’s Cave and Arethusa Spring.  For participants who are rested and willing, an additional hike of about .25 miles descends to the beach. We will return along the same path to meet our bus ride back to Vathi town, our hotel, and last meal evening together to share memories, photos, and contact information. (We will use WhatsAPP for group communication before, during, and after the trip.)

Day 14: In Vathi, Ithaca, at our hotel taxi arrangements can be made for the drive to Piso Aetos to catch the short ferry ride to Sami, Kefalonia. Participants may choose other travel itineraries.

Getting There

The leader will confirm arrival and departure travel options and details to registered participants. 

Our initial rendezvous is our hotel in Argostoli, the capital of the island of Kefalonia. Kefalonia, (also spelled Cefalonia) our first island to explore, can be reached by ferry or by airplane.

Participants traveling from US cities may choose to fly to Athens International Airport and connect to a 45 minute flight to Kefalonia International Airport and then take a fifteen-minute taxi ride to the hotel.

Participants may fly directly into Kefalonia International Airport from numerous European cities and then take a fifteen-minute taxi ride to the hotel. 

Another, more complicated option after arrival in Athens is to travel by bus or train to the seaport of Patras. There, board a 4-hour ferry to the seaport of Sami, Kefalonia. On arrival, hire a 30-minute taxi ride to Argostoli. This option requires nearly an extra day of travel; however, if participants want to tour Athens and surrounding areas, it could be a viable option. 

The trip ends with our evening meal on day 13 in Ithaca. On Saturday, day 14, an early morning taxi from our hotel returns participants to a port for a 30-40-minute ferry ride to Sami, Kefalonia. At that location, participants can arrange for a taxi to the airport in Argostoli for return flights. Other travel itineraries are possible, with longer stays on the Islands or with different plans. 

The leader will review possible travel options. 

Expenses for travel arrangements, food, and lodging prior to the arrival at the  Argostoli hotel and on day 14 are not covered by the trip fee. 

Please do not make non-refundable travel arrangements until notified to do so by the trip leader.

Accommodations and Food

Comfortable, friendly hotels on each island will afford ready access to villages and eye-opening vistas. On some islands we will reside near the seashore, on others, higher in the mountain villages. Each room will be reserved for double occupancy, so if you travel alone, we will provide you a roommate of the same gender. Single occupancy rooms cannot be assured at locations, but if available, will require an additional participant expense. Be ready to be roused from sleep by sunrise, doves cooing, and rooster calls.

Breakfast and lunch are included in the trip fee. To enhance your travel experience and to offer you the opportunity of experiencing the variety of Greek cuisine, when we dine as a group at evening meals each person will have the option of selecting a preferred meal. Your trip leader believes participants should be able to sample authentic Greek and Ionian islands’ cuisine -- a special pleasure on its own.

The participant-paid dinner for 13 evening meals is not included in the trip price, which should be around 30 Euros for each meal, minus drinks. Coffee drinks can be more expensive than meal appetizers! Participants will need to bring Euros though most businesses accept credit cards.

Sampling the food and hotels on each island will be one of the appeals to this trip. 

Trip Difficulty

This trip is suitable for the active traveler who enjoys daily hikes and walks. It is suitable for active adults, as long as one is in good aerobic conditioning, has steady leg strength, regularly exercises, enjoys the rigors of the outdoors, and enjoys traveling with a group of like-minded people.  Participants must be comfortable hiking each day, sometimes twice a day, and who know they can recover by the next day. We will hike daily, mostly in the up-country, on hikes of varying lengths and levels of difficulty. The longest hike with links will be approximately 5 miles with an elevation gain and loss of around 1000 feet.  Aerobic fitness and strong legs are essential to your enjoyment of this trip given the daily itinerary (see Trip Itinerary). Hiking routes will vary from lightly traveled paved roads, to gravel roads, to well-marked paths, to those that are barely marked.

Some trails stairway through village streets to higher elevations and merge with paths. Many hikes cross steep terrains; others over gently sloping hills, and we may cover both types of terrains during the same hike. Some hikes begin at street level in villages, pass houses and the many churches that dot the landscape, and then ascend to wooded elevations and ancient acropolis sites. Our hiking goal is to explore both the lowlands, the villages that hang on hill sides, and the low-lying mountains of each island.

Before registering, potential participants are recommended to contact the trip leader via email.

Equipment and Clothing

Springtime on the islands can be a mix of sunshine, cool periods, and occasional rain. Warm sunshine usually will bask us during the day, with temperature highs ranging from 70s on the coast to low 60s at higher elevations. On recent trips, periodic cool spring rain that nourishes these verdant islands was a regular occurrence. Layered clothing for early morning and evening is needed to match temperature changes. During the day, breathable, light weight hiking pants and long-sleeved shirts should be worn. Shorts are fine—few insects, though the leader highly recommends zipper-legged pants to counter pervasive thorny vegetation.

Broad brimmed hats and sunglasses are essential, as is high SPF sunscreen. Hiking boots are required as are hiking poles to ensure stability on hill-climbs and on rocky, uneven trails. (The leader will check each participant’s gear list.) Evening attire is casual as you prefer, with a lightweight jacket or even a puffy vest or jacket for the inevitable cooler temperatures. A light rain jacket is a reliable companion.

The leader will send a detailed gear checklist to approved participants.

References

Books:

• Mendelsohn, Daniel.  “An Odyssey: A Father, a Son, and an Epic”
  (Highly recommended investigation of the enduring human themes evident in the Epic.)   
• de Bernières, Louis. “Captain Corelli's Mandolin”                                 
• Papadopoulos, Thanasis J. “The Excavation at Agios Athanasios/School of Homer”
  (An archeological analysis.)
• Cochrane, Jane. “Walking in the Footsteps of Odysseus”
  (Highly recommended.)
• Cochrane, Jane. “Odysseus’ Island”

Maps:

• Any topographical of the three islands, available at Amazon

• Mazitto, Sergio. “Hiking and Walking in Greece: Kefalonia and Ithaca”

• Mazitto, Sergio. “Hiking and Walking in Greek Islands: Lefkada/Lefkas”

Websites:

• https://www.terrabook.com/Greece

• https://pixabay.com/images/search/kefalonia/
  

• Gringo Trails, a film about how world travelers affect local cultures and places:

• http://gringotrails.com/about-the-film-2/

• http://gringotrails.com/trailer/

• Ethical Traveler website: http://www.ethicaltraveler.org
  
  
  

• Sustainable Travel: http://www.sustainabletravel.org

Conservation

The island Greeks have had to be especially conscious of preserving their environment since subsistence living has been the source of shared economic survival. We will see how some islands relied on water-capture methods for farming and home use; how years later municipal water was rationed twice a week; and presently, from a steady ground water supply--though cisterns are still relied upon.

On Ithaca, we will gather water from a perpetual underground spring that over 3,200 years ago provided water for the fortress home of Odysseus.

Modern life certainly is influential, alongside the conservation and land stewardship that will be evident. Greece, like many countries, has problems with waste disposal. It easily relies on nonrecyclable plastic and other single use material. The Islands have a semblance of a recycling program, but it is far from pervasively implemented or understood. These and other environmental issues will be a steady, trip-long discussion as we observe the confluence of older village life and the impact of present day expectations and tourism.

The itinerary of this trip mirrors the spirit of Sierra Club National Outings. The Club’s focus to “Enjoy, explore, and protect the planet” will become evident during our travels. Humans have a shared responsibility to protect our natural world: to use only what we need, make smarter choices, and pass on to future generations the beauty, wildlife, water, and natural resources we have today. Especially with the threat of climate change, we should foster a persistent, enduring conservation ethic to fulfill this responsibility.

Protecting our natural areas will ensure that we still have places to hike, bike, boat, fish, hunt, see wildlife or just enjoy the quiet and peace of nature, and our survival as a species. Even on distant islands we’ll explore in the same spirit as John Muir.

Evacuation and Travel Insurance

The Sierra Club provides evacuation insurance to all participants on international trips. Since this coverage does not include any trip cancellation or interruption insurance, we suggest you purchase another policy separately to provide coverage for your trip and other travel costs. This policy also does not cover pre-trip and post-trip travel. Please note the evacuation insurance provided does not cover claims resulting from any pre-existing condition that occurs within 60 days of the trip departure. If you have specific questions about this exclusion, please review the insurance brochure. For information on purchasing a separate policy, please see our travel insurance page.