Hidden Trails of Cinque Terre and the Italian Riviera, France and Italy

The Trip

Along the Mediterranean Sea where the French Alps yield to the Italian Apennines, there is a rugged coastline that is at once majestic and mystical, ancient and renowned, known as the Italian Riviera. Here one finds Portofino and the centuries-old Cinque Terre, the Five Lands. On our outing we will explore this region of natural beauty, millennia-old culture, mountains, beaches, and historic towns. Extending from Pisa, Italy in the south to Menton, France in the west, the area is known locally as the Ligurian Riviera after the Italian province, Liguria, in which it resides.

We will visit some of the famous attractions, such as the Leaning Tower in the Piazza Dei Miracoli, but will concentrate our attention on less familiar hiking trails with wide-angle vistas of mountains, the Mediterranean Sea, farms, vineyards, olive orchards, and scenic villages. Our local guide, raised in the area, will show us trails most visitors never see. We will have opportunities to swim in the Mediterranean Sea. After our hikes, we will dine on authentic local cuisine in family-owned restaurants before we settle into our lodging in small, charming hotels.

Along the way, we will visit many UNESCO World Heritage sites and national parks. Our evening conversation will recap our hikes, but we will also discuss the environmental issues of preservation in the face of rampant eco- and not-so-eco tourism; the demographic shift from rural areas to large urban centers and the impact of the resulting neglect on the human geography; the damage caused by devastating floods of 2011 and how wise stewardship might have reduced the impact; and how the Slow Food movement is creating opportunities for a new generation of environmentally aware food producers.

The leaders will make every reasonable effort to follow the following itinerary. Please keep in mind that weather or other conditions beyond our control may cause us to modify our plans to ensure the safety and well-being of the group.

Day 1: (Pisa and Porto Venere) This morning our group will meet at the front entrance of the Pisa rail station, then head to the center of the city to visit the spectacular Piazza del Miracoli and the world famous Leaning Tower of Pisa. (If you wish to enter and climb the tower, please arrive a day early, as there is not time to do so on our tour day.) We then head Porto Venere and our hotel. We will be staying there for the next two nights.

Day 2: (Palmaria Island and Porto Venere) This morning a short boat ride takes us to the biggest island of the region, Palmaria. Cinque Terre, Porto Venere, and Palmaria Island are UNESCO World Heritage sites and have been inhabited for at least 5,000 years. We will explore the island's vegetation (more than 500 species) and enjoy breathtaking views of Porta Venere and a very impressive 19th century military fortification. Before dinner we will tour the town, seeing charming churches, colorful houses, and ancient buildings (all part of a powerful fortress that defended Genoa against its rival, Pisa). We will have time to stroll and enjoy an incredible seascape from "Lord Bryon's window," the poet's favorite viewpoint in Porto Venere. Dinner will be in Porto Venere. Hiking time: around 3.5 hours, with 1,000 feet of elevation gain.

Day 3: (Walk to Cinque Terre) This morning we begin the hike of the Cinque Terre in the village of Campiglia and get our first views of the five beautiful villages that hang over the sea: Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza, and Monterosso. Built in the 12th century, they are all UNESCO World Heritage today. We hike through many old farms, viewing the different types of grapes grown in this area. We finish our hike down the trail to meet our bus, then travel to our hotel in Monterosso. We will have time for a pleasant stroll in the old town or a relaxing swim in the sea. Hiking time: 4 hours, with 800 feet of elevation gain.

Day 4: (Hiking in Cinque Terre) Today we hike to two more villages. We start with either a train or boat ride to Vernazza where our hike begins. First, we hike to Corniglia where we have lunch and a short tour. Continuing on toward Manarola, we pass more vineyards and olive tree groves. Both trails are quite steep, but the views are stunning. From Manarola we return by train to Monterosso. Hiking time: around 5 hours, with 1,900 feet of elevation gain.

Day 5: (Monterosso to Levanto) Our day begins with a steep uphill hike from our hotel to Punta Mesco, the promontory that is the natural divide between the Five Lands and the village of Levanto. (Hiking time: around 3.5 hours total, with about 1,000 feet of elevation gain.) We will have lunch in Levanto. From Levanto we depart for a 1.5-hour bus drive to our hotel along winding mountain roads. Our final destination for today is the seaside village of Recco, where we will stay the next three nights.

Day 6: (Santa Margarita to Portofino) A bus ride takes us to the seaside village of Santa Margarita. We hike through the village, which was once a fishing village and is now a tourist destination. This area became the center of the summer's dolce vita and attracted countless writers, poets, painters, and movie stars. On our hike we may pass old abandoned villas with great views of the coast. We continue down to Portofino and, if time permits, we might stop in San Fruttuoso. We take a boat back to Recco. Hiking time: 4 hours, with 1,000 feet of elevation gain. Dinner is on your own tonight.

Day 7: (San Rocco to Punta Chiappa) Starting from the beautiful church of San Rocco di Camogli, 900 feet above Camogli, we have a pleasant, mostly downhill hike to the promontory of Punta Chiappa with beautiful views of the sea and rugged coast. We then will hike along the coast back to Camogli for lunch and a few hours to explore and shop before returning to Recco and maybe enjoying a swim in the Mediterranean Sea. Hiking time: 5 hours, with modest elevation gain.

Day 8: (Capo Manara) A 30-minute bus ride takes us to beautiful Sestri Levante, a village between the Baia del Silenzio (Bay of Silence) annd Baia delle Favole (Bay of Fairy Tales). We hike through a protected area on a trail side by beautiful Aleppo Pines and Cork Oaks, a perfect combination with expansive sea views. We will reach Punta Manara for more great views and lunch. We will then take our bus to Genoa for a historic walking tour of this fabulous city of World Heritage sites. After the tour we take the bus to our hotel in Noli for the next two nights. Hiking time: 3 hours, with 750 feet of elevation gain.

Day 9: (Varigotti to Noli) Today we take a local bus 10 minutes to the town of Varigotti and begin our hike in this small village. The hike starts up a steep hill and then is mostly downhill the last 2/3 back to Noli, which is considered the "most beautiful village in Italy." On our hike we pass typical vegetation, including rosemary and arbutus plants arriving at the dramatic cape viewpoint over vertical Triassic limestone cliffs. We hike down into a cave high above the water, which for many years had been used by travelers to hide stolen loot. Hiking time: 4 hours, with 1,150 feet of elevation gain.

Day 10: (Bussana Vecchia and Menton, France) A bus ride of 1.5 hours takes us to our trailhead. Our hike this morning takes us to the ancient village of Bussana Vecchia. This medieval village was probably founded by the Romans and inhabited until 1887, when a violent earthquake struck. In the late 1950s, artists from all over the world established a vital community based on ideals of common property and inspirational creativity. After a pleasant lunch in Bussana Vecchia, we drive 30 minutes toward the French border, stopping at a botanic garden for a refreshing break. After another 30-minute bus ride, we will reach our hotel in the French city of Menton. Hiking time: 2.5 hours, with 600 feet of elevation gain.

Day 11: (St. Agnes) After starting the day with a short bus ride to Gorbio, we hike to the highest coastal village in France, St. Agnes. This hike is considered the prettiest hike in the Riviera Region. We'll walk on ancient cobbled streets and visit the stunning church in the center of town. Hiking time: 4 hours. We return to Menton for our final dinner together.

Day 12: (Transfer to Nice) After breakfast, our tour ends with fond farewells and a transfer to the airport in Nice, France.

Getting There

Our group will meet in front of the Pisa railroad station at 8:30 a.m. on Day 1. Flights to Pisa are available through many European hubs, including Rome, Paris, Munich, and London. You will need to arrive in Pisa at least one day before the trip begins. Be sure to account for the extra day involved in the overnight flight from the U.S. The outing will end after breakfast on Day 12 in Menton, France with a transfer to the airport in Nice, France. Flights back to the U.S. from the airport in Nice will typically involve a flight through a European hub. Please keep in mind that if you want to take advantage of the group transportation to the airport, you should plan for a flight departure time after 11:30 a.m. Please do not make non-refundable travel arrangements until notified to do so by the trip leader.

Accommodations and Food

We will be staying in comfortable and charming family-owned hotels. All are 2 or 3 stars. We have made an effort to use local hotels that give us a true flavor of Italy and France rather than homogenized chain hotels that are found all over the world. You will find that some do not have elevators and some do not have air conditioning; some have larger rooms and some smaller. All offer an excellent breakfast with food choices and a true taste of Italian/French character. The lodging is double-occupancy with private bathrooms. Singles will be assigned a roommate of the same gender. If you prefer a single room, you may elect to pay a single supplement charge depending on availability.

We will have breakfast in our hotels, lunches along our hiking route, and dinner in restaurants. The emphasis will be on fresh, local produce, regional wines and cheeses, and locally made pesto and cheese focaccia. All meals are included except one dinner, when each participant will be able to choose among various recommended restaurants.

Trip Difficulty

This is a moderate trip with occasional steep, rocky trail segments. Daily hikes will be 3-7 miles, with elevation gains up to 1,600 feet. As with all hiking outings, the better shape you are in, the more you will enjoy it.

Equipment and Clothing

A detailed equipment list will be sent to each participant. Plan to bring ankle-supporting hiking boots, spring/summer clothes for hiking, a daypack with water bottle, first-aid kit, sun protection, and rain gear. Trekking poles are strongly recommended for the steep trails.

References

To enjoy the country and its people to the fullest, you will want to acquaint yourself with the history, religion, and culture of Italy -- especially Liguria and the Italian Riviera. The leader will provide a more extensive list of suggested reading and movies to each trip member in pre-trip correspondence.

Books:

• Walters, Jess, Beautiful Ruins.
• Nabham, Gary Paul, Songbirds, Truffles, and Wolves, An American Naturalist in Italy.
• Calcagno, Anne, Travelers' Tales of Italy.
• Richards, Charles, The New Italians.

Conservation

Since its founding in 1892, the Sierra Club has worked to preserve and restore the natural environment we all share on this planet. Thousands of grassroots-level volunteers spearhead our efforts to conserve and sustain resources, both in our own backyards and on a global scale. Through direct experience in the outdoors, Sierra Club outings enable participants to better understand, advocate, and participate in the environmental conservation goals of the Club.

Partly in response to eco-tourism, Italy has created many parks and nature reserves to protect some at-risk ecological communities. It has more UNESCO World Heritage sites than any other country. Off the Italian coastline, the Gulf of Genoa is part of the Pelagos Sanctuary for Mediterranean Marine Mammals (including cetaceans such as whales, dolphins, and porpoises). The conservation theme of our outing will address sustainability in the context of regional issues and the interplay among post-industrial culture, tourism, and environmental protection.

Evacuation and Travel Insurance

The Sierra Club provides evacuation insurance to all participants on international trips. Since this coverage does not include any trip cancellation or interruption insurance, we suggest you purchase another policy separately to provide coverage for your trip and other travel costs. This policy also does not cover pre-trip and post-trip travel. Please note the evacuation insurance provided does not cover claims resulting from any pre-existing condition that occurs within 60 days of the trip departure. If you have specific questions about this exclusion, please review the insurance brochure. For information on purchasing a separate policy, please see our travel insurance page.