Hiking the Pembrokeshire Coast Path, Wales

The Trip

It is in the quieter, remote and wild places peopled largely by birds and visited occasionally by grey seals, that the spell of old Pembrokeshire — the ancient ‘Land of Mystery and Enchantment’ (Gwlad Hud a Lledrith) — remains. — Anonymous

In 2012, National Geographic judged the Pembrokeshire coast to be one of the best coastal destinations in the world. What an accolade. The Pembrokeshire Coast Path, opened in 1970, was the first National Trail in Wales. A total distance of 186 miles, it lies almost entirely within the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park — Britain's only coastal national park designated in 1952. For an island inhabited for millennia, the abundance of wild places is both delightful and encouraging. There is a wealth of bird life — colonies of seabirds nest along the cliffs, and a huge variety of European seabirds are supported by the uninhabited offshore islands, such as Ramsey Island, which act as bird sanctuaries. Seals, porpoises, and dolphins may often be spotted swimming offshore. We will experience and see truly wild countryside adjacent to managed lands and discuss the merits, or otherwise, of both relative to the diversity of plant and animal species.

On this trip, we will hike the wild and remote northern section of the Pembrokeshire coast path, covering a distance of 62 miles. We will lodge in two different locations near to the route — thereby having the opportunity to explore and experience two different Welsh towns. After each stay, our bags will be transferred to our next lodging via our private bus. Each morning, after breakfast, we'll transfer to the trailhead via our private bus — and the same at day's end. We will be joined by an experienced English walker for the full trip, sharing their knowledge about this world-acclaimed coast path and insights into day-to-day life in England.

The following is the planned daily schedule. Inclement weather or poor trail conditions could require changes to the itinerary at short, or no notice.

Day 1: We will meet in the afternoon at Carmarthen train station. From here we have about a one-hour journey via private bus to our accommodations in Newport, home for the next four nights. After getting settled, we’ll meet to have an orientation about our trip and to answer last-minute questions before adjourning for our welcome dinner, our first meal together.

Day 2: St. Dogmael's to Moylgrove (8 miles, 1,965-foot ascent). We will set off from St. Dogmael’s enjoying fine views of Cardigan Bay. Rounding Cemaes Head, a nature preserve, a wonderful vista opens up toward the South West, with views of Dinas Island and Strumble Head. Our private bus will meet us at Molygrove and transfer us back to Newport for dinner and a well-earned rest.

Day 3: Moylgrove to Newport (9 miles, 2,300-foot ascent). After breakfast, our bus will take us back to Molygrove and drop us off above Ceibwr Bay, the start of today’s hike. This is one of the wildest and most uninhabited sections of the walk. At times the route will be challenging, but it’s an exhilarating journey through stunning cliff scenery and wonderful rock formations and caves. Today’s hike ends at Newport.

Day 4: Newport to Goodwick (13 miles, 2,645-foot ascent). Starting from Newport, the coastline here is softer and less rugged with fields abutting the cliffs, and we will soon reach the idyllic sandy coves of Aberrhigian and Aberfforest. After visiting the famous beauty spot of Cwm-yr-Eglwys (Valley of the Church), a hamlet named after the ruined church of St. Brynach, the trail winds around glorious Dinas Head to Fishguard. At day’s end in Goodwick, we will transfer by bus back to our hotel for dinner and our last night in Newport. Formerly a small fishing village before the arrival of the railway, the place name Goodwick most likely derives from a combination of the Old Norse forms: góðr (good) and vik (bay or cove) giving góðrvik.

Day 5: Goodwick to Pwll Deri (9 miles, 1,995-foot ascent). Along the coast from Goodwick, at Carreg Wastad, we will pass a memorial stone marking the “Last Invasion of Britain,” when in 1797 a ragged French force made an abortive landing and were repelled by local townspeople. Continuing west we reach Strumble Head topped by its lighthouse. This is a glorious, wild stretch of coast, well-loved by twitchers (bird watchers). Following a beautiful stretch of footpath, the day ends at the beauty spot of Pwll Deri (Pool of Oaks).  We will transfer onto our next accommodation in the diminutive city of St. Davids. Our small hotel is situated on the outskirts of St. Davids — about a 5- to 8-minute walk from the little city square and the cathedral. After dinner at our hotel, for those with an interest, we’ll take an evening stroll to the cathedral.

Day 6: Pwll Deri to Porthgain (11 miles, 2,300-foot ascent). From Pwll Deri, we will walk past Aber Bach and Aber Mawr, two sandy beaches each with a pebble bank. Aber Mawr beach has the unenviable distinction of being the fastest eroding part of the Pembrokeshire Coast Path. Parts of the beach are moving inland at up to three feet each year. If the tide is out, we might see the perfectly salt-preserved stumps of a forest drowned 8,000 years ago. Past Abercastle is Castell Coch, an Iron Age promontory fort with its impressive outer ditch dug in solid rock. Our bus will meet us at Porthgain for transfer back to St. Davids.

Day 7: Porthgain to St. Davids (12 miles, 2,150-foot ascent). Returning to Porthgain, we will head along the cliff tops, appreciating the terrain as it becomes more rugged and wild. The craggy hill of Carn Llidi, 594 feet, presents an imposing landmark approaching the heather-covered heath of St. Davids Head. We will make time to search for nearby Coetan Arthur dolman — a Neolithic burial chamber dating from around 3,000 BCE. Heading south, Whitesands Bay, one of the best surfing beaches in the country, will come into view. Leaving the coast path for the final time, we will enter the medieval city of St. Davids via its cathedral, a truly stunning end to our coastal adventure. Tonight we will have our farewell dinner celebrating our achievement hiking the wild and remote northern Pembrokeshire coast path.

Day 8: After breakfast, our last meal together, we will transfer back to Carmarthen train station and bid our goodbyes.

Getting There

Our trip starts and ends at Carmarthen train station. The start date is September 16th when we will meet mid-afternoon at Carmarthen train station and transfer via our private bus, a journey of about one hour, to our first night’s accommodation in Newport. Getting to Carmarthen train station is the responsibility of each participant. One option is to fly into London Heathrow and take the train to Carmarthen via central London, a journey time of about four hours.

The trip ends on September 23rd when we will return to Carmarthen train station, leaving our hotel after breakfast. Full details will be provided to registered participants.

Participants are encouraged to arrive in England a day or two early to recover from the inevitable jet lag.

Accommodations and Food

Our accommodations are small charming inns and hotels, each with its own history. All rooms will have a shower, bathroom, and hair-dryer, and include tea/coffee-making facilities. Same-gender roommates will be assigned to those traveling solo. The trip price includes all breakfasts, lunches, and dinners. Hearty, home-cooked breakfasts using fresh local produce will include choices to satisfy all appetites. Our midday meal will be a sack lunch to eat along the trail. Dinners will be provided at our hotels, serving seasonal locally sourced Welsh produce. Vegetarian food preferences are readily accommodated. Dinner on day one will be our first meal and breakfast on day eight will be our last meal provided on the trip. If you have any questions or concerns about accommodations, please ask the leader before signing up for the trip.

Trip Difficulty

This moderately strenuous day-hiking trip along the Pembrokeshire coast path is designed for sure-footed active hikers who will not be intimidated by sections of the trail passing near cliff edges. Good general physical condition as well as hiking stamina is important. Carrying day packs only, we will hike a total distance of 62 miles, covering 8 to 13 miles per day with a maximum daily ascent of 2,645 feet. On average we will be hiking seven to eight hours each day for six days in a row. There will be plenty of rest stops during our hikes. As we are hiking directly along the coast, there will be no shade. There will occasionally be the opportunity to skip some hiking sections of the trail by either staying at our accommodation or riding in the bus and meeting the group at our next hotel. At this time of year, we can expect daytime temperatures ranging from low 50s to mid 60s, and nighttime temperatures to be in the 40s.

Equipment and Clothing

A pair of broken-in hiking boots is essential for hiking this rugged section of the Pembrokeshire coast path. In addition you will need one or two hiking poles for added stability on uneven and rocky sections of the trail. The leader will provide a detailed gear list to approved trip participants.

References

Books:

• John, Brian, Pembrokeshire Coast Path. National Trail Guides, 2013.
• Davies, John, A History of Wales. Penguin, 1994.
• Turvey, Roger, Pembrokeshire: The Concise History. 2006.

Maps:

• Ordnance Survey Explorer Map OL 35 – North Pembrokeshire

Conservation

The Sierra Club is an environmentally focused entity. We are concerned about conservation and sustainability of resources, both locally and globally. Our work is accomplished by volunteers and aided by a salaried staff, encouraging grassroots involvement. Our outings seek to empower participants toward environmentally understanding parallel concerns at home and abroad.

The juxtaposition of conservation land management and traditional versus modern farming practices are a common challenge worldwide. More people than ever are living in and visiting Britain’s national parks and many people continue to make a living off the land. However, this landscape is vulnerable and it is careful land management that continues to shape and move landscapes toward a sustainable future. Land and sea-based ecosystems have been degraded over time and climate change will exacerbate existing pressures on wildlife, as well as add new ones. Protecting wildlife sites is of key importance, but restoring habitat connections is also critical. Within the Pembrokeshire National Park the aim is to “promote ecological resilience measures and to reward farmers for catchment-sensitive, carbon-sensitive and connection-sensitive farming. The idea being that such measures would also help to add security to farm incomes, reduce flood risk, reduce food miles, contribute to food and energy security, and reconnect people with land management and the food they eat.”

For many years the main problems facing Pembrokeshire’s coastline have been the two extremes of agricultural intensification on the one hand and neglect on the other. Many habitats require grazing in order to be in good condition for wildlife. But the decline of traditional grazing has led to many habitats becoming overgrown with gorse, bracken, and bramble. On many national park sites, the appropriate animals are not always available to do the job. The Pembrokeshire National Park Authority responded by instigating and coordinating the Pembrokeshire Grazing Network — the aim being to facilitate grazing for nature conservation by setting up a system to match up “at risk” sites with shared stock, equipment, and expertise to the mutual benefit of land owners. Welsh Mountain Ponies are great at coastal grazing. A local farmer and breeder in North Pembrokeshire, Huw Davies, works with the park authority and his ponies may be seen grazing many sites around the National Park.

In today’s modern world many people’s daily activities are detached from nature. The deep desire and need to reconnect with nature, however, is evidenced by the sheer volume of people who visit national parks and other beautiful areas of countryside. Following the words of John Muir, Sierra Club’s founder, providing people with the opportunity to access nature and inspirational landscapes hopefully encourages a sense of shared responsibility and pride and a desire to protect them for future generations. This is the goal with Sierra Club Outings.

Evacuation and Travel Insurance

The Sierra Club provides evacuation insurance to all participants on international trips. Since this coverage does not include any trip cancellation or interruption insurance, we suggest you purchase another policy separately to provide coverage for your trip and other travel costs. This policy also does not cover pre-trip and post-trip travel. Please note the evacuation insurance provided does not cover claims resulting from any pre-existing condition that occurs within 60 days of the trip departure. If you have specific questions about this exclusion, please review the insurance brochure. For information on purchasing a separate policy, please see our travel insurance page.