Hot Springs, Cold Creeks, and Snowy Mountains in Oregon's Cascade Range

The Trip

“Few regions pack such a variety of trails into an area crossable by a two-hour drive,” writes William Sullivan (100 Hikes/Travel Guide: Central Oregon Cascades, 2017), and we will explore as much of that variety as can be packed into a seven-day trip. Our day hikes will include cold creeks in the foothills, wooded lakes, rushing rivers, barren lava fields, and vistas of snow-capped peaks.

Each night we will return to our accommodations -- a historic retreat operating since 1980 as an off-the-grid facility heated by natural hot springs, generating its own electricity, and away from cell phone access. As described on the lodge’s website, it is “a remote forest retreat of timeless natural beauty, blessed with abundant hot springs, a glacier-fed river and surrounding mountains, where you will discover a vast and personal connection with the natural world in any season.” 

The environment that we will explore is constantly shaped by weather and by fire, with environmental stewards striving to ensure preservation and access. We will be mindful of these elements as we adjust our itinerary from the tentative plans outlined here.

Day 1: The trip begins on Sunday in Portland, Oregon. (If you fly to Portland, Maine, you are on your own!) Trip leaders will pick up participants mid-morning at a central location. Participants must discuss travel plans and timing with leaders before making plane reservations, so that we can leave Portland on time; most participants will need to fly to Portland on Saturday. We will drive about 1.5 hours to our first hike. We’ll walk six miles, going up about 700 feet and passing two waterfalls as we wander through ranch land and several different low-altitude ecosystems. Then, we’ll drive another hour to our accommodations for the week, arriving in time for dinner.

Day 2: Today we drive to the Cachebox Creek trailhead at 4,500 feet elevation and then hike to the top of Hawk Mountain (5,277 feet), with a great view of snowy Mount Jefferson. If we’re lucky, the meadow on Hawk Mountain will be covered with wildflowers. Total hike is about 5 miles.

Day 3: Today’s hike is along the Little North Santiam River. We walk through a mossy, old-growth forest, watching the river transition from rapids to waterfalls to calm, emerald-colored pools of crystal-clear water. Although the hike is described as 4.5 miles with 900 feet elevation gain, the uneven trail makes it seem longer – making it a real treat to swim in one of those emerald pools around lunchtime.

Day 4: Today, we get to relax and enjoy the retreat center where we’re staying. In addition to the soaking pools and some cold creeks to dip in, there are optional classes such as yoga -- some at no charge. Those who want a massage (extra cost) are advised to book several weeks in advance. There are also options for hikes starting at the lodge, including the 6-mile South Breitenbush Gorge Trail.

Day 5: We’re ready for a more ambitious hike -- a 9-mile hike along the Old Cascade Crest Trail, with 2,200 feet of elevation gain. We begin in woods full of bunchberry, cross a creek, and then begin switchbacking up a steep hill. After climbing through forest, we emerge into meadows full of wildflowers, with dramatic views of the higher Cascade Mountains in the distance. At the summit of Crescent Mountain, our 180-degree view includes Mount Hood, Mount Jefferson, Three-Fingered Jack, Mount Washington, and the Three Sisters.

Day 6: Today’s hike is to Red Lake and beyond. We begin by briefly crossing a clearcut, then climbing through old-growth forest. In less than two miles we reach Red Lake, a shallow lake with a small beach. We continue past three other lakes – perhaps stopping at one for a swim. Depending on trail conditions, we may summit Potato Butte, with a great view of Mount Jefferson and the lakes below. This 6- to 7-mile hike includes 1,300 to 1,700 feet of elevation gain.

Day 7: We have a leisurely morning for a farewell soak in the hot springs before we pack up and head back to Portland. We’ll be back in Portland late afternoon on Saturday. A late-Saturday plane departure may be feasible; please discuss with trip leader before making reservations. 

Note: In order to visit these diverse ecosystems, we will need to drive longer than usual distances to the trailheads. Most drives will be less than an hour, though one will take 1.5 hours each way.

Getting There

We will meet at the Portland International Airport (PDX) late morning on Sunday, from which our rental vans will drive to the first hike and then to the lodge. Please check with the trip leaders before making plane reservations, as we’ll base our departure time on what works best for most people. This will require most participants to fly in the night before.

Note that you will not need to rent a car for this trip. The trip price is higher because the cost of transportation is built in.

Please do not make non-refundable travel arrangements until notified to do so by the trip leader.

Accommodations and Food

We will sleep in large tents provided by the retreat (two people per tent), eat breakfast and dinner in the lodge, and pack up our lunches to take on the trail. A highlight of the retreat is a series of soaking pools fed by the hot springs; these are available for our use whenever we want. The retreat also offers daily well-being programs such as yoga and meditation, a library, and massages -- some of these at extra cost.

All food will be provided by the lodge; it is vegetarian and mostly organic. We suggest that participants bring snacks such as energy bars. Those who are used to a less earth-based diet are welcome to bring the junk foods of their choice. The retreat center does not allow alcohol or recreational drugs.

At the soaking pools, retreat policy is that clothing is optional; most users drop their clothing by the pools as they enter. That said, the pools are removed from the rest of the facility and nudity is not tolerated elsewhere on the grounds. Participants with any concerns are invited to contact the leader to discuss.

Trip Difficulty

Most hikes are easy to moderate, though there will be one or two more aggressive hikes. All hikes will be on trails. Most are well-maintained, though there may be an occasional rock scramble or exposed trail (steep drop-off below the trail). You will only need to carry a daypack. Participants should be in good physical condition and should plan a conditioning program beginning at least two to three months before the trip, including hikes similar to those planned. If you can hike six to eight miles one day and 10 to 12 the next, with 1,500 feet of elevation gain, you are probably ready for this trip.

Equipment and Clothing

A detailed equipment list will be sent to all approved participants. In brief, expect good weather but prepare for occasional thunderstorms and possible sustained rain. You’ll need good hiking boots (well broken-in), a daypack (large enough for water, lunch, snacks, raingear, and clothes to layer), trekking poles, and clothes that can be layered for warm, sunny days, cold mornings, and rain.

We will be staying in tents provided by the retreat center, each with mattresses for two people. You will need a sleeping bag.

References

• Sullivan, William, 100 Hikes/Travel Guide: Central Oregon Cascades.

Conservation

We will be staying in a retreat center that is off-the-grid, generating its own electricity from the river and heating the entire facility by piping water from the hot springs. We will learn the history of the center and talk with staff about how it operates.

In light of recent forest fires in northern Oregon, we will discuss the controversies around fire management, as well as the drivers for recent increases in forest fires in the Pacific Northwest.

Sierra Club National Outings is an equal-opportunity provider and when applicable will operate under permits obtained from U.S. federal land agencies.