Hot Springs and Wildlife: Dayhiking Yellowstone National Park

The Trip

Human presence in Yellowstone dates back 11,000 years. More recently, 26 Native American tribes have some historical connection to the lands and resources that make up Yellowstone according to the National Park Service. Various bands of the Sioux, Blackfeet, and Crow are a few of these tribes.

In the 1800s, fur trapper stories of a place where "spouts of water and steam erupted at intervals" and "hell bubbled up" began to emerge. As these lucid descriptions were met with skepticism by Eastern newspaper editors, they were replaced by whimsical tales of petrified birds in flight, fish in a cold water spring swimming to the surface of hot water and being cooked, "a lake with millions of beaver nearly impossible to kill because of their superior cuteness," and "a canyon so deep that a man could shout into it at night and be awakened by his echo the next morning." Sensing the truth behind the myth, future expeditions led to an eventual petition to the United States Congress to set aside this area of profound beauty and natural wonder.

On March 1, 1872, President Ulysses S. Grant signed The Yellowstone Act, which created the first national park in the United States and the world. "…That the tract of land in the Territories of Montana and Wyoming…dedicated and set apart as a public park or pleasuring-ground for the benefit and enjoyment of the people… Such regulations shall provide for the preservation, from injury or spoliation, or all timber, mineral deposits, natural curiosities, or wonders within said park, and their retention in their natural condition.” Yellowstone National Park was designated a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve in 1976 and a World Heritage site in 1978.

With a land mass of 2,221,766 acres (about the size of Connecticut), Yellowstone boasts 67 species of mammals (including bison, bears, pronghorn, and gray wolf) and about 1,350 species of flowering plants. It sits on a geothermal hotspot that provides the heat necessary to drive the phenomenal hydrothermal features and volcanic activity in the park. Yet, according to local lore, although Yellowstone has over 1,000 miles of hiking trail, the majority of the Park’s visitors do not leave the roadside to view its colorful splendor, wildlife, and hidden secrets.

In partnership with Yellowstone Forever, our on-trail week in the Park will provide educational opportunities to include: looking for and learning about wildlife in the ‘Serengeti of the West;' visiting hot springs to discover how they are formed and why they are constantly changing; viewing a spectacular waterfall in route to secluded backcountry geysers; hiking to a summit with unforgettable panoramic views; and much more. Hikes range from 8 to 9.6 miles with elevation gains up to 1,400 feet on varied terrain. After a day of exploring, we’ll return to our secluded rustic lodging to prepare, cook, and enjoy a tasty dinner. After dinner, we will chat about our day and review the next day’s itinerary.

Please note that a change to the itinerary/trails may be necessary due to weather, forest fire, wildlife activity, and/or trail closures.

Day 1: Arrival

For those flying into Bozeman Yellowstone International Airport, a Yellowstone Forever shuttle will arrive to pick you up between 3:00 to 3:30 p.m. For those driving, directions will be provided at a later date. After settling into our cabins, the first cook crew will assist the leader in preparing and cooking our first group meal. We’ll have introductions during dinner followed by dessert and a review of our week..

Day 2: Mammoth Hot Springs and the Gallatin Range (9-mile loop, elevation gain of 1,200 feet)

After breakfast, we begin our day with an orientation with the Yellowstone Forever Naturalist. Afterward, we will enter the park for a hike that will begin at the Mammoth Hot Spring terraces. The first section of this hike offers views of colorful hot spring features, including some lesser-known features in the forest. We’ll learn about thermophile communities, how hot springs are formed, and why they are in constant change. From the Terrace area, we’ll ascend a trail that will provide spectacular views of the Gallatin Range including Electric Peak and Sepulcher Mountain. We’ll descend via the Golden Gate Trail, which will afford us views of the Golden Gate Canyon, Cathedral Rock, and the Absaroka Range. We’ll also pass through the Hoodoos, odd-shaped travertine formations that were caused by an ancient landslide. 

Day 3: Hot Springs, Geysers, and Waterfalls (approx. 8 miles, elevation gain 208 feet)

Beginning on an old freight road, we’ll take a short side trek up a mountain for an outstanding view of the Grand Prismatic Spring. After returning to the road, we’ll gain a backside view of the Prismatic as we head toward our trail. Once on the trail, we’ll enter a corridor through a fairly young lodgepole pine forest. As the area opens up, we’ll look for quick golden-mantled ground squirrels, clever ravens, and raptors perched high in the trees. After viewing a 197-foot waterfall, we’ll continue through a former burn area that is making a colorful return. Soon, we’ll see steam rising as we approach the small but active Spray Geyser. A short distance later, we’ll stop to admire the more energetic Imperial Geyser, known for its blue sapphire pool and bright surrounding colors.

Day 4: Wildlife Viewing and the Lamar River

A shorter day, this will be an especially early morning as we head to the ‘Serengeti of the West.’ Have your camera ready as we look for wolves, bison, pronghorn, and elk which are known to congregate along or near the banks of the Lamar River. Moose, bighorn sheep, mountain goats, ducks, and river otters have also been seen in this area. We’ll be provided high-powered spotting scopes and binoculars with instructions on how to search for wildlife, interpret their behavior, and information on the role each plays in the ecosystem.

After wildlife viewing, we’ll take a break by the valley’s river for an aquatic perspective of the Park.

Day 5: The Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone (up to 9 miles, elevation gain 905 feet)

This is going to be a truly mixed day of iconic falls, a colorful canyon, and thermal features. We’ll start our hike through an open area which will eventually lead us through a forest and to the shore of a thermal, emerald-colored lake. A short distance from the lake has more thermal features including steaming vents and boiling mud. Back into the forest and up the trail, we will emerge to an incredible artist’s palette of colors on the canyon walls with the Yellowstone River far below. We’ll continue to our lunch spot, guarding our food from inquisitive ground squirrels, while taking in the vast beauty surrounding us. We will be treated to closer views of the river and well-photographed falls as we complete our loop.

Day 6: Observation Peak (9.6 miles, in/out trail, elevation gain of 1,400 feet)

We’ll begin our hike downhill into a forest of lodgepole pine until we eventually break out onto a fairly more level, rolling trail that passes large meadows with scattered stands of trees. After we reach the pristine Cascade Lake, we’ll pause to look for trumpeter swans, moose, and bison. Beginning our ascent, we’ll pass by a spruce and fir forest, again breaking out into open areas that were impacted by the 1988 fire. As we continue to climb, gaining better views, we’ll listen for bugling elk in the forest below. At the top by the old lookout, our effort will be rewarded with distant views of Yellowstone’s Grand Canyon, Mt. Sheridan, and the Gallatin Range.

Day 7: Departure

The trip will end after breakfast. For those flying out of Bozeman Yellowstone International Airport, transportation will be provided to the airport. Please don't schedule your flights to depart before 12:30 p.m.

Getting There

The ‘Yellowstone Overlook’ cabins are located near Gardiner, MT, and the north entrance to Yellowstone National Park. The closest airport is Bozeman Yellowstone International Airport (BZN) which is serviced by all the major airlines including Southwest. If you fly into BZN, a shuttle from the Yellowstone Forever will pick you up between 3:00 and 3:30 p.m. on our first day.

Note that airfare, car rental, and other modes of transportation to and from our lodge are not included in the trip price.

The trip is van-supported. As part of the trip fee, all ground transportation is provided from our cabin to the trailheads.

Please do not make travel arrangements until the leader has confirmed you as a trip member.

Accommodations and Food

The Yellowstone Forever's Electric Peak and Davis Cabins are situated on a mountainside at 6,000 feet, approximately five miles from Gardiner, on 80 acres of land. One of the cabins is a single level and the other has stairs to the second level. There is a gravel parking area in front of the cabins. Each cabin has three shared bedrooms (with bunk beds, but our goal is to use the bottom beds only), two bathrooms with showers, a fully equipped kitchen, a common area, laundry facilities, and outside decking. Bed linen, pillows, and bath towels will be provided. Because of the thermal activity in the park, the cabins sometimes have a sulfur smell. Leaving windows open upon return helps to dissipate it. Not all cell phones will work. Currently, Verizon is the only provider with reliable service in the area. The campus hosts have a phone for emergency use. Wi-Fi is available.

We will prepare/cook our meals in one of the kitchens and use that common area to dine as a group. Lunches will be on trail. Happy hour snack foods will be provided before dinner. Dinnertime may vary due to the Park's road construction or traffic congestion caused by elk, bears, or other wildlife. Vegetarians, but not vegans, can be accommodated. Other dietary restrictions will be considered.

Trip Difficulty

Hikes range from approximately 8 to 9.6 miles and cover elevation gains of a few hundred to 1,400 feet. If we complete a hike early, we may visit another feature (one not listed) or extend our distance to enhance our experience at the park. We will be hiking at elevations of 6,200 feet to as high as 9,400 feet. The trails could have exposed roots or rocks, or be muddy. To make for an enjoyable week, you should be physically fit and able to comfortably hike at a moderate pace of up to 2 mph uphill, picking up the pace on less challenging terrain, for six to seven hours. Accompanied by a Yellowstone Forever Naturalist, we will be stopping for educational moments as we look at and enjoy our surroundings. Because we are hiking through bear, bison, wolf, and other large wildlife habitat, we will remain together as a group at all times, adhering to the park’s wildlife encounter safety protocol. We will also stay on the designated trail due to geothermal danger and to help preserve our fragile surroundings.

Equipment and Clothing

As is typical in the Rocky Mountains, the weather can change quickly and bring cold temperatures, high winds, rain, and falling snow. In August, the average daytime temperature ranges from the 70s to mid-80s, dropping as low as the 30s or 40s (Fahrenheit) at night. The average precipitation is 1.3 inches with the potential for a thunderstorm in the afternoon. Again, the weather can be unpredictable. Pack clothes that can be layered, and bring rain gear and hiking boots or shoes that are already broken in. At least two months before the trip, in an e-newsletter, you will receive a list of required/recommended clothing and equipment.

References

• Schneider, Bill. Hiking Yellowstone National Park. Helena, MT: Morris Book Publishing, LLC. 2012.
• Haines, Aubrey L., Yellowstone National Park: Its Exploration and Establishment. U.S. Department of the Interior National Park Service, Washington. 1974. http://www.nps.gov/parkhistory/online_books/haines1/iee1b.htm
• Dilsaver, Larry. America's National Park System: The Critical Documents. Rowman & Littlefield Publishers. 1994. http://www.nps.gov/parkhistory/online_books/anps/index.htm
• Geyser and Hot Spring. Science Clarified. 2015. http://www.scienceclarified.com/landforms/Faults-to-Mountains/Geyser-and-Hot-Spring.html
• Yellowstone National Park Mammals. National Park Service US Department of the Interior. 2015. http://www.nps.gov/yell/learn/nature/mammals.htm

Conservation

Gray wolves have a long history of roaming the North American continent with no barriers and few predators. As settlers arrived in the United States and began to expand West, the wolves' story changed over time. Before and on our wildlife viewing day, we’ll discuss the history of the gray wolf in the Yellowstone area and Park, what led to their greatly diminished numbers, and how the Endangered Species Act and an amendment to it led to their re-introduction at Yellowstone National Park.

Sierra Club National Outings is an equal opportunity provider and when applicable will operate under permits obtained from U.S. federal land agencies.