Land of the Thunder Dragon: Bhutan

The Trip

Situated between India and Tibet, Bhutan affords stunning scenery, snow-covered Himalayan peaks, flapping prayer flags, colorful Buddhist temples, and an incredible variety of flora and fauna -- from old-growth forests to the golden langur monkey. This great variety is due predominantly to its varied climate zones as a consequence of its marked elevation changes, virtually intact ecosystems and a strong national desire to protect its rich religious and cultural heritage. Indeed, the government promotes preservation of this intact environment and culture as pillars of its gross national happiness. We will take easy to strenuous hikes on many days to more intimately experience Bhutan’s nature and people.

The trip will explore many of Bhutan’s distinctive dzongs (monasteries/fortresses), temples, numerous colorful chortens (stupas) and other cultural sites dating back centuries. Most of these will be accessed by hiking, other times by our own van. We will experience local markets, governmental institutes and centers of learning of various sorts, sometimes spontaneously visiting events as they occur. Our guide will afford us an expert historical, cultural, and religious background to many of the sites we visit that will provide a flavor of Bhutan’s wonderful people. Our hotels will be typically three-star, with high-quality meals, service, and often extraordinary views, but we’ll also stay one night with a local family at their farm to experience rural life.

Day 1: The adventure will begin when we arrive in Paro after a stunning flight from Bangkok. The flight to Paro, Bhutan has magnificent views of the world's highest peaks, which give way to the lush, green valley with its clear air, absence of noise, and the fragrance of pines. Temple-studded hills and prayer flags dotting the landscape will tell you that you are in no ordinary place. We will meet our guide and drive to the Paro Airport. Then we are shuttled, with stops along the way to view the river canyons and mountains, to our hotel in Thimphu. Overnight at a hotel. Drive Paro (7,600 feet) to Thimphu (7,730 feet) -- 34 miles/1.5 hours.

Day 2: After breakfast at the hotel, we will drive to spectacular Changangkha temple and later start a moderate hike toward Buddha Point where you will witness the largest sitting Buddha, the palace of Sherab Wangchuk, and also a magnificent view of the valley. After lunch we will have an afternoon of unforgettable visits to the Painting School, where gifted students are taught painting, wood carving, and sculpture; the Textile Museum, the Gold and Silversmith Workshop, and the Paper Factory, where traditional methods are utilized. If Day 2 falls on a public holiday, we will modify our itinerary accordingly. We return to our hotel in Thimphu for the evening. Hike Thimphu (7,800 feet) to Golden Buddha (8,200 feet) -- 3-4 miles/2-3 hours, moderate hike.

Day 3: Our post-breakfast drive takes us north to Dodena where we will start our walk to Cheri, the first monastery in Bhutan, built in 1620. We may see tame mountain goats and birds that are cared for by the monks. After a picnic lunch, we drive to Pangrizampa monastery and the college of astrology. We will return to Thimphu late in the afternoon. Hike Dodena (8,658 feet) to Cheri (9,000 feet) -- 2-3 miles/1-1.5 hours, moderate hike.

Day 4: We will leave Thimphu and follow the road as it climbs steeply through a forest of pine and cedar, festooned with hanging lichen to Dochula Pass (10,000 feet). This pass (on clear days) offers panoramic views of the Himalayan ranges as we descend a series of hairpin bends to the fertile valley of Punakha (4,430 feet). We will stop and walk to the Chimi Lhakhang temple, crossing fields of rice. This temple is dedicated to Drukpa Kuenley, popularly known as “divine madman." Women seeking fertility come here for a special blessing. After lunch we will visit the interior of the Punakha Dzong, built at the confluence of the Mo Chu and Po Chu rivers. In the late afternoon, we'll stroll through town. Drive Thimphu (7,730 feet) to Punakha (4,160 feet) -- 44 miles/2-3 hours.

Day 5: We will have an early breakfast today as we start our day with a beautiful hike up to the Khamsum Yuelley Monastery. We cross the bridge and start walking uphill to the temple. It takes about 45 minutes to an hour on a steep but well-maintained trail until we reach the temple. Then all will visit the temple, which was built by the current queen mother, Ashi Tshering Yangden. It was built in dedication to her son, the king. The temple stands at about 5,280 feet. After taking in the beautiful valley view of Punakha from here, we will head back down for lunch. After lunch, we will go cross one of the longest suspension bridges in Bhutan, spanning about 160-180 meters long. Besides the thrill of crossing a suspended bridge, this experience also allows for a great photo session with Bhutan’s distinctive landscape as a backdrop. Overnight in a hotel in Punakha.

Day 6: Following breakfast, we will start our 2.5- to 3-hour drive to Phobjikha. Upon arrival, lunch will be served at a farmhouse where we will also spend the night. Next, explore the beautiful, serene valley by hiking the Nature Trail, which takes about two hours. This hike will take you through pine forest, small villages, and dwarf bamboo plants while providing scenic views from several viewpoints. We will end the hike at the Gangtey Goenpa Monastery, where your driver will be waiting for you. Overnight at a farmhouse in Phobjikha Valley.

Day 7: After breakfast, we will begint our 2.5- to 3-hour drive to Trongsa. We start early for the drive to the central valleys of Bhutan. From Tikki Zampa (Bridge) we will climb steadily, passing through semi-tropical vegetation and then to Pele la Pass (10,989 feet). With an alpine environment of rhododendrons and dwarf bamboo, the Pass is traditionally considered the boundary between West and East Bhutan. If it's a clear day, we can see the high snow-capped peaks, including Mount Chomolhari (24,355 feet). Backed by a mountain and built on several levels, the dzong fits narrowly on a spur that sticks out into the gorge of the Mangde River and overlooks the routes south and west. The view from the dzong extends for many miles and in former times nothing could escape the vigilance of its watchmen. After checking in and having lunch, we will explore the small Trongsa town and visit the Trongsa Dzong on foot. Overnight at a small resort, which offers a superb view of the soaring mountains and the majestic Trongsa Dzong.

Day 8: This morning we will visit the Taa Dzong, built in the 17th century -- once an ancient watchtower, now an excellent museum. Afterward, we'll continue our drive to Bumthang, a complex of four valleys: Chumey, Choekhor, Tang, and Ura. Chumey and Choekhor are agricultural valleys, while Tang and Ura depend mostly on animal husbandry. After crossing Yotongla Pass and into Chumey Valley, we arrive at Domkhar Palace, where we will have a picnic lunch. We will stop at Tsungney village, where we can see weavers making the famous Yathra fabric. Overnight at our resort in Bumthang. Drive Trongsa (7,259 feet) to Bumthang (8,591 feet) -- 44 miles/3-4 hours.

Day 9: Today we will visit some of the most unique and religious sites in the valley. After breakfast, we will drive toward the base point for a short uphill hike to Shugdra cave and explore the area. After lunch, we visit Kurjey Temple, Tamshing, and Kenchogsum temples. In the late afternoon you will have time to relax, shop, or explore Jakar on your own. Overnight at a hotel in Bumthang.

Day 10: After breakfast we'll drive for two hours, stopping at Serthangla Pass (11,847 feet). We will walk downhill to Ura Temple and continue our walk to Ura village -- its cobblestone streets and closely packed houses give the village a medieval atmosphere. Our lunch will be served at a village house. If time permits, we will make a brief stop at Membartsho (burning lake) on our return to our hotel in Jakar. Hike Serthangla Pass (11,847 feet) to Ura Temple (10,700 feet) -- 5-6 miles, moderate hike, downhill.

Day 11: Today we will take an in-country flight back to Paro. This will save us the time of driving over the mountain passes both ways. Upon arrival, we will check into our hotel and enjoy lunch. In the afternoon we will visit the renowned National Museum -- which contains works of art, handicrafts, costumes, armor, and rare stamps -- and the Rimpung Dzong with its covered bridge. In the late afternoon you have the chance to shop before dinner and our return to our hotel. Overnight in Paro.

Day 12: Right after an early breakfast we will drive 2.5 hours to spectacular Chelela Pass (13,038 feet) where there can be great views of the high Himalayan peaks. From there we begin a slow-paced hike following a gradually ascending ridge to a wonderful viewpoint above tree line and filled with wildflowers. Most will be acclimated from earlier hikes and by overnighting above 8,000 feet, but we take our time and guests can go as far as they feel able. Then we return to our vehicle and are shuttled downhill to a family farm near the remote village of Haa (8,800 feet) for a family homestay. Overnight in farmhouse in Haa Valley. Hike Chelela Pass (13,038 feet) to viewpoint (~14,100 feet) -- 2-3 miles/3-4 hours, strenuous hike due to elevation.

Day 13: After breakfast at the farmhouse, we will take a leisurely scenic hike along a valley trail viewing cultural sites and rural life along the way. Following lunch, we shuttle 3 hours back to Paro and check into our comfortable hotel. There may be time for exploring in Paro. Later we enjoy a hearty dinner. Hike from Haa farmhouse (8,200 feet) to high point on the trail (~8,800 feet) -- 1-2 miles/1-2 hours, easy hike.

Day 14: After breakfast we will drive to the start of the trail to Tiger's Lair, which climbs through a lovely pine forest that's draped with moss. We will stop for tea at the cafeteria and continue the hike to this incredible monastery, clinging to the edge of a sheer rock cliff. There is some exposure on this trail. Those who do not want to complete the walk can stay at the cafeteria and still have a magnificent view of the monastery. In the evening we will have our farewell dinner at our hotel. Hike Paro (7,600 feet) to Taksang (Tiger’s Nest) Monastery (10,000 feet) -- 6-8 miles, strenuous. (We return via the same route so you can just do part. We stop for lunch halfway.)

Day 15: Following breakfast, our last meal of the trip, we will say goodbye to our guides, driver, and Bhutan as we depart from Paro International Airport on a flight to Bangkok.

Important note: The dates of this outing may shift one day forward or one day back, depending on the airline flight schedule into Bhutan.  There is limited flight service into Bhutan.  Your Sierra Club leader will inform you of the finalized outing dates as soon as the airline schedule is available, usually 12 months before the trip starts. Do not make any airline or hotel reservations until instructed to do so by your Sierra Club leader.

Getting There

Participants must meet in Bangkok, Thailand for the pre-trip orientation and later for our flight to Bhutan. Each participant is responsible for purchasing his or her own flights to Bangkok, and return. Our trip itinerary formally begins and ends in Paro, Bhutan. We will take a group flight from Bangkok to Paro on day one, as flights into and out of Bhutan are highly regulated and we must obtain visas in advance for each participant. The cost of the Bangkok-Paro and Paro-Bangkok flights, as well as one in-country flight on day 11 from Jakar to Paro total about $1,155 and are not included in the price of the trip. Once you register for the trip the SC leader will inform you of the final airfare cost and payment arrangements. Our concessionaire in Bhutan will purchase these tickets.  

Trip cancellation and interruption insurance that includes refunds for non-refundable airline tickets among other travel expenses is strongly recommended. Please do not make any non-refundable travel arrangements until instructed to do so by the trip leader.

Accommodations and Food

We will stay in comfortable and clean hotels with hot water and electricity, and on two rural farms with basic amenities, a stunning setting and friendly host family. Internet access is usually available at hotels, but access is spotty elsewhere. Breakfasts and most dinners are in the hotels or at farm stays. Lunches will often be in restaurants, with some hikes providing picnic lunches. Meals are typically served buffet style, with Bhutanese, Indian, and British dishes as the usual offerings. Vegetarians are easily accommodated. A typical breakfast may include cereal and milk, pancakes (sometimes Buckwheat), omelets, fried potatoes, and fruit. Dinners may include rice, noodles, asparagus or cauliflower, a meat entrée (often chicken), and ema datshi, the spicy chili cheese dish often considered as the national dish of Bhutan. Beer is typically available for purchase with lunch or dinner, but wine is limited.

Trip Difficulty

This is an active outing, considered moderately strenuous.  The trip consists of a mix of hiking and cultural touring. Persons in good physical condition who are comfortable walking 3-4 hours on hilly, rocky, sometimes steep terrain should enjoy the hikes. Most hikes are above 8,000 feet and start out gradually at the beginning of the trip, and we take breaks during a hike. One hike near the end of the outing, when we are better acclimated to high altitude, begins at 13,100 feet at Chela Pass and follows a gradually rising ridge and ends at about 14,000 feet in a flower covered meadow, often with great views of the high Himalayas. Day 14 of the trip will consist of a 5 mile round trip, steep hike with a 1,800 vertical ascent up to 10,000 feet at stunning Tiger’s Lair Monastery. A person does not need to go the full distance on any hike.  A physical conditioning regimen prior to the outing is essential for your safety and trip enjoyment.

Equipment and Clothing

Hiking boots or trail shoes, rain jacket and pants, and a day pack are required. A detailed equipment list will be provided. Daytime temperatures will be moderate (approximately 65 to 75 degrees). Nighttime temperatures will be cool (40 to 50 degrees).

References

• Bhutan. Lonely Planet. Not absolutely necessary, but probably the best overall source for traveling in the country.
• Zeppe, J., Beyond the Sky and the Earth: A Journey into Bhutan. This is an excellent book detailing a young teacher in Bhutan who falls in love with the country.
• Tobgay, Tshering. “This country isn’t just carbon neutral; it is carbon negative." A fascinating TED talk video about Bhutan’s response to climate change and its gross national happiness. www.ted.com/talks/tshering_tobgay_this_country_isn_t_just_carbon_neutral_it_s_carbon_negative?language=en
• Aris, M., The Raven Crown. The definitive history of the monarchy in Bhutan. The book is lavishly illustrated with rare photographs.
• Ashi Dorji Wangmo Wangchuck, Queen of Bhutan, Treasure of the Thunder Dragon. This is an appealing and personal account of the kingdom from a unique perspective.
• Ura, Karma, The Hero with a Thousand Eyes. An historical novel based on Shingkar Lam, a retainer who served in the court of the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th kings of Bhutan. It offers insight into the social conditions of the early part of 20th century and the reforms of Jigme Dorji Wangchuck, the 3rd king of Bhutan.
• Choden, Kunzang, The Circle of Karma. This tells a story of a young woman who journeys across Bhutan to find her destiny and rewards the reader with a rich detail of everyday life in the country.
• Dompnier, Robert, Bhutan, Kingdom of the Dragon. A superb coffee-table book by a French photographer who has traveled extensively throughout Bhutan.

Conservation

Bhutan has both positive and cautionary stories to tell about conservation of the environment and traditional cultures. The country is a leader in promoting sustainable tourism by limiting tourism impacts, protecting large areas as parks and making tourism benefit residents. From its concept of Gross National Happiness to bringing back endangered species, such as the snow leopard, there is much to learn. This interest in conservation comes as a natural extension of its Buddhist practices, as Buddhism believes in the interdependence of all life, be it sentient beings or flora. Given that the country already has one of the most intact ecosystems, it makes for a more successful pursuit of the conservation efforts that have been instituted. It also has challenges with wildlife poaching, deforestation and threats from China and its neighbors. Although we do not visit this low land part of Bhutan, an example of one issue are the challenges facing Bengal tigers from both poaching and the co-existence with farmers and a growing adjacent population. Another example of a conservation policy is the government does not permit harvested lumber to be exported. It does utilize dead trees and thins out some forests, but with a goal of maintaining over 60% of the land forested; its current level of 72% is well ahead of that objective. Over one-fourth of the land area is preserved in national parks. Many of the significant Buddhist religious sites and structures are protected, cherished as national treasures and still used for religious purposes.

While conservation is a stated policy of the government, the promotion of tourism (Bhutan’s 2nd leading source of income) and its rapidly growing population pose challenges to these conservation efforts. We will have discussions about national policies and local efforts, and contrast this with conservations efforts in our own country.

Evacuation and Travel Insurance

The Sierra Club provides evacuation insurance to all participants on international trips. Since this coverage does not include any trip cancellation or interruption insurance, we suggest you purchase another policy separately to provide coverage for your trip and other travel costs. This policy also does not cover pre-trip and post-trip travel. Please note the evacuation insurance provided does not cover claims resulting from any pre-existing condition that occurs within 60 days of the trip departure. If you have specific questions about this exclusion, please review the insurance brochure. For information on purchasing a separate policy, please see our travel insurance page.