Majestic and Remote Peaks and Canyons, Death Valley National Park, California

The Trip

From narrow slot canyons and rugged peaks to salt flats and sand dunes, the extreme topography of Death Valley offers dramatic sublime scenery, and humbling silence. A variety of day hikes and a challenging, mostly off-trail backpack will awe the senses with ever-unfolding terrain. Bring your sense of adventure to enjoy rock scrambling, heights, steep descents, and the sometimes-unforgiving desert. Due to the flexibility provided by a combination of day hikes and a short backpack, if one’s schedule is tight, coming a day late or leaving a day early is possible.

“Those who contemplate the beauty of the earth find reserves of strength that will endure as long as life lasts.” — Rachel Carson

"There is no shortage of water in the desert but exactly the right amount, a perfect ratio of water to rock, water to sand. There is no lack of water here unless you try to establish a city where no city should be." — Edward Abbey

"How can rocks and sand and silence make us afraid and yet be so wonderful?" — Edna Brush Perkins

If you’d like to experience hiking and camping in Death Valley, hang out and have fun with other like-minded hikers, and challenge yourself with rugged day hikes and an overnight mostly off-trail backpack, this trip is for you! You’ll be able to backpack one of the few loop trails in Death Valley National Park. Our Marble Canyon/Deadhorse Canyon/Swaney Loop route provides a diverse desert hiking experience. We’ll explore four different canyons complete with narrows and a couple of dry falls to navigate. There is some rock scrambling with just enough exposure to make these sections exhilarating.

We will practice our navigation skills, find water at seasonal springs, and make camp under brilliant stars. We’ll enjoy spontaneous conversations that are sure to make you contemplate your smallness in the vast desert, or perhaps in the universe. At times, we will practice silence and hike in a mindful, humble way.

The human stories in this vast land are as numerous as the variations of color found in the hills and valleys here. Whether it was the lure of mineral wealth or the resort industry that brought people here, every person who entered this valley experienced it in a different way. Exploring those differences is what makes a study of the ethnic history of Death Valley so exciting and challenging. The first who came were Native Americans. The Timbisha Shoshone Indians lived here for centuries before the first white man entered the valley. They hunted and followed seasonal migrations for harvesting of pinyon pine nuts and mesquite beans with their families. To them, the land provided everything they needed, and many areas were, and are, considered to be sacred places.

As with all our trips, flexibility and a sense of humor is required. Come prepared mentally and physically for changes in plan, depending on available seasonal water sources, weather, or potential presence of other hikers. 

Day 1: Meet at Furnace Creek Campground in Death Valley National Park in the afternoon. Our first required meeting will be around 3 p.m. We will get to know each other, discuss the upcoming adventure over happy hour and snacks, and head to a nearby cafe for a no-host dinner. We can visit the nearby visitor center to learn more about the Park. Arriving early to the campsite to set up tents is highly recommended; doing so in the dark is not ideal.

Day 2: We’ll focus on the southern valley today; starting with Golden Canyon and Zabriskie Point, we’ll experience some of the most stunning landscapes in the Park. At the end of the canyon is the prominent vista point called Red Cathedral, with a mesmerizing panorama across the badlands. A short drive down the valley is Natural Bridge Canyon, just two miles roundtrip; the shaded walk ends at the 50-foot-tall natural bridge spanning the canyon…and a cool place for lunch. Next is the highlight of Death Valley: Badwater Basin (road permitting), the lowest point in North America. Finally, climaxing this fascinating day is the return north along Artist’s Drive and its vivid landscape of vibrant soil colored by rich clays resembling an artist’s palette of variegated colors.

Day 3: We may choose to start the day with a half-hour drive to catch the sunrise on the Mesquite Flat Dunes or have a more leisurely morning. The highlight of our day is a very challenging hike up Corkscrew Peak. The 3,000-foot, sometimes steep and exposed climb is a real workout and the views are stupendous. The steep descent is like that found on the Swaney Loop portion of our backpack.

For the afternoon we can choose from several destinations. Mosaic Canyon is walled with both mosaic conglomerates and smooth marbleized rocks; it’s a fine example of the geology of Death Valley. If the road is in good condition, we could choose Salt Creek, home to the unique pupfish, which perseveres in this harsh desert landscape. Another possibility is Harmony Borax Works, closer to our camp.

Days 4-5: We pack up camp and head to Stovepipe Wells with our most off-road capable vehicles. Driving toward Marble Canyon on an infamous dirt road that becomes more difficult with each mile, we will go as far as our caravan is able to, then begin the backpack portion of the trip. If we are unable to get all the way to the Marble Canyon Trailhead, we will need to walk an extra 2 miles each way. From the trailhead, we start up Marble Canyon wash. Soon the canyon narrows between soaring gray limestone walls with seemingly unending bends. We navigate a dry waterfall and scramble around some obstacles, ascending 2,500 feet total over about 7 miles. We camp in Deadhorse Canyon in the vicinity of a seasonal spring and spend the afternoon exploring the area. If recent reports show the spring is dry, we will have the option of carrying extra water (5-6 quarts total to start) or going to another spring and altering our itinerary, making for a longer first day.

Arising early the next day, we begin the most demanding day of the trip. It’s about 12 miles with 2,000 feet of gain and 4,500 feet of loss. This route has it all: narrow slot canyons to squeeze through, exposed scrambling, dry waterfalls, bushwhacking and dizzying steeps – a real jungle gym for the desert aficionado. Then it is back to Furnace Creek for a well-deserved dinner at camp.

Day 6: On today’s adventure, we experience Dante’s View at sunrise then head out along a narrow ridge to climb Mount Perry – almost 9 miles and 2,400-foot gain and loss of rather easy walking. We may opt to go halfway so we don’t have to rush to get back to Furnace Creek to vacate camp by noon.

Note: This itinerary is packed full of wonderful things to do and see. Group interest, weather, and road conditions will determine our choices.

Getting There

We will meet at the Furnace Creek Campground inside Death Valley National Park the afternoon of Day 1. The trip will conclude at noon on Day 6. A roster of participants will be provided by the leader so that interested individuals can contact fellow participants to arrange carpools, if desired. Please do not make non-refundable travel arrangements until notified to do so by the trip leader. 

Furnace Creek Campground is easily reachable by flying to Las Vegas and renting a car. Las Vegas to Furnace Creek is an easy 140-mile, 2-hour drive. Los Angeles is under 5 hours and the Bay Area is around 8 hours by car. There are many exciting areas to visit en route for those who would like to extend their visit. No shuttles or mass transportation are available into or within the park.

Accommodations and Food

Our campsites range from a developed group campsite at Furnace Creek with showers, flushable toilets, snack bar, market, and potable water, to a primitive site along our backpacking route. All trip meals from Day 2 breakfast to Day 6 lunch (as well as trail snacks) will be provided. Leaders will prepare meals and participants will serve meals, fetch water, and clean up. Meals are simple breakfasts, on-trail lunches, and hearty three-course dinners. We can accommodate most diets and food allergies, with prior notification.

Trip Difficulty

The trip is 4 rated, where 1 is the easiest and 5 is the most difficult backpack run by Sierra Club National Outings. This trip is moderately strenuous, due to some long mileage days, short stretches of rugged steep unstable terrain, required rock scrambling and a few exposed sections in narrow slot canyons. 

There is a dry waterfall requiring assistance to navigate and some brush to push through. Most experienced hikers would appreciate trekking poles, long pants, and gaiters. We will be hiking 7-12 miles total each day. Daily elevation gain will be up to 3,000 feet. Our hikes will become progressively more difficult each successive day.

Equipment and Clothing

You will need to bring all your personal gear, including sleeping bag and pad, tent, backpack, daypack, water bottles (at least six liters total), headlamp, broken-in hiking boots, personal first-aid kit, rain jacket, and warm layers. The trip leader will provide a detailed packing list to participants. December usually provides ideal hiking weather (60-70 F), but nights can easily get down to freezing. A warm down jacket, thermal underwear and a sleeping bag rated to 20 F or warmer will be necessary. 

The group’s commissary equipment will be provided, and consists of pots, rodent-proof food storage, utensils, stoves, fuel, and, of course, food. For the backpack, this will be equally divided amongst the group, and no more than 3 pounds each.

References

Maps:

• USGS Quadrants: East of Sand Flat, Cottonwood Canyon, Harris Hill
• Interactive Map, NPS Cottonwood/Marble Loop and GPX/KML files
• Tom Harrison Maps: Death Valley National Park
• National Geographic Death Valley National Park Trail Map -- California

Websites:

• Timbisha Shoshone Tribe website: http://www.timbisha.org/history.htm
• A nice overview of today’s Timbisha Shoshone and their relationship to the Death Valley habitat, specifically the mesquite: http://mojavedesert.net/timbisha-shoshone/
• CleverHiker Blog Cottonwood-Marble Canyon Loop Backpacking Guide -- Death Valley: https://www.cleverhiker.com/blog/death-valley-cottonwood-marble-canyon-loop-backpacking-guide

Books and Articles:

• Alex Ross, “Death Valley Is Alive,” The New Yorker, Nov. 15, 2016. The writer explores Death Valley during a super bloom and muses on what the place has meant to different people at different times, including the first human inhabitants, the Timbisha Shoshone tribe. 
• Glazner, Allen F., Arthur Gibbs Sylvester, and Robert P. Sharp, Illustrated by Chelsea M. Feeney, Geology Underfoot in Death Valley and Eastern California. Second Edition. 
• Bryan, T. Scott and Betty Tucker-Bryan, The Explorer’s Guide to Death Valley National Park. Third Edition. 
• Cunningham, Bill and Polly Cunningham, Hiking Death Valley National Park: A Guide to the Park's Greatest Hiking Adventures (Regional Hiking Series).

Conservation

Death Valley’s unique biologic and geologic features continue to be degraded by numerous sources. Air pollution, invasive species, water mining, and overgrazing burros are just a few of the many threats to this fragile desert ecosystem. There is a long history of mining in Death Valley, but since achieving national park status mining has been completely phased out.

The area’s most ominous and latest threat is a proposed mining operation adjacent to the National Park. Nestled between Malpais Wilderness Area, Cerro Gordo Wilderness Study Area, the Owens Lakebed and Death Valley National Park is Conglomerate Mesa; poised and formidable. These 22,500 acres of roadless BLM terrain are unconfined, rugged, and brimming with rich desert life and cultural history. Yet, despite the many values of this land, Conglomerate Mesa is at the threat of a large-scale open pit cyanide gold mine.

In April 2020, K2 Gold officially took over the Conglomerate Mesa gold exploration project. The company has submitted an expanded proposal requesting miles of new road construction into the Mesa and 30 additional drill sites, totaling 120 drill holes. Despite much local opposition, K2 Gold continued to pursue this project. However, Ridgecrest BLM recently required the company to create and Environmental Impact Statement, which is business as usual. In response, K2 put the project on “indefinite hold” so K2 can “concentrate its efforts on acquiring and advancing high quality projects in jurisdictions more favorable to mineral exploration.” In other words, K2 desired a carte blanche to drill without doing any of the expensive work that is typically required, and now is seeking greener pastures. Unfortunately, what this often means is that K2 will wait for a more favorable administration and hope that at that time local opposition will be focusing on other issues. 

The people of Inyo County and the California Desert will continue to do everything in their power to prevent the road construction project and additional drilling. In the face of this threat, Friends of the Inyo and partner environmental organizations are seeking permanent protection of this beloved desert gem. Without it, we will continue to fight perennial battles with mining companies who want to destroy this land.

Part of the cost of your trip will be donated to Friends of the Inyo to support their environmental efforts on behalf of Conglomerate Mesa.

Land Acknowledgement

We will be hiking in the ancestral land of the Timbisha Shoshone people, who have lived in the area for at least 1,000 years and refer to “Death Valley” as Timbisha. In 1933 Death Valley National Monument was established by President Hoover. The NPS forced the relocation of Shoshone camps several times before a final move to what is now the Timbisha Indian Village, a 40-acre plot of land on the valley floor. In 1979 the Indian Claims Commission (ICC) awarded the Western Shoshone $26 million for the territory taken from them, and a hearing was held in 1980 to conclude the ICC process. The Western Shoshone asked the government representative what law the United States used to legally acquire the land. The representative could not answer, and the people refused the money. The tribe received federal recognition in 1983, but recognition did not come with a formal land base. In 1994 the California Desert Protection Act was signed into law by President Clinton. The act, which created Death Valley National Park, included a provision for the Timbisha Shoshone Tribe that authorized the Secretary of Interior, in consultation with the tribe and other federal agencies, to conduct a study to identify lands suitable for a reservation within the tribe’s aboriginal homelands. In 2000 the Timbisha Homeland Act was signed into law by President Clinton. The bill transferred 7,500 acres of land in California and Nevada into trust for the tribe, creating the first tribal reservation within a national park.

Sierra Club National Outings is an equal-opportunity provider and when applicable will operate under permits obtained from U.S. federal land agencies.