Adventures in the Scottish Highlands, Scotland

The Trip

This is Scotland as you’ve only imagined, with 10 days of fabulous scenery and vistas unique to the Scottish Highlands and Islands. We'll explore and enjoy many of the best-known places of Scottish history and culture, all wonderfully photogenic. There will be daily hikes, some off the beaten path and into the untamed Highlands, along its craggy hillsides of lochs and Gaelic-speaking villages. All hikes will be accompanied by an expert local hiking guide from a British not-for-profit hiking society founded by a contemporary of the Sierra Club’s founder John Muir.

We’ll meet in Edinburgh, Scotland's historic capital city, and then head into the Highlands using a dedicated minibus and accompanied by our Scottish guide. Our first stop is a pleasant hike along a segment of the picturesque West Highland Way, the most famous of Scotland’s Great Treks. We’ll have sweeping vistas of Loch Lomond, the largest of Scotland’s glacially formed lakes. The next day includes a short drive to the valley of Glencoe, often considered one of the most spectacular and beautiful places in Scotland and part of a designated National Scenic Area. You’ll marvel at the stark grandeur of this narrow glen surrounded by wild and precipitous mountains. We'll discuss how these epic landscapes have been celebrated by the Scots for their beauty and also reviled as unproductive wastelands over the millennia. Our accommodation for several nights is at Alltshellach, located on the shores of beautiful Loch Leven, a splendid base from which to explore this scenic area.

Now we’re on the West Coast of Scotland, renowned for its iconic castles and even more stunning scenery. We’ll take a short ferry ride to the island of Lismore for a day-long walk amongst its striking natural environs and historical sites. Lismore once supported a 6th-century monastery and still exhibits an iron-age broch, a drystone, hollow-walled structure unique to Scotland. The next day brings us to Eilean Donan Castle, perhaps the most recognized castle in Scotland and one of the most popular visitor attractions in the Highlands. Located on its own small island, it overlooks the Isle of Skye at the point where three great sea-lochs meet. Surrounded by the forested mountains of Kintail, Eilean Donan’s setting is truly breathtaking.

We’ll spend a day on the dramatic Isle of Skye, with a hike into the Black Cuillins -- visibly the most impressive mountain range in the British Isles. Our walk in the nearby Glen Brittle Forest is highlighted by a mountain stream and waterfalls. We'll take time to discuss Scotland's historic forests and restoration efforts over the past century. This day also features a tour of the world-famous Talisker Distillery, where we’ll sample its legendary single malt whisky. Our stay for two nights is an award-winning hotel in the picturesque settlement of Plockton, yet another spectacular area of the Highlands. 

We must now start our return to the east, first to visit the dramatic ruins of Urquhart Castle on the shores of Loch Ness and once one of Scotland’s mightiest strongholds. Afterward, we’ll hike a portion of the Great Glen Way above Loch Ness’s dark, deep waters and have the best opportunity to catch sight of the elusive ‘Nessie.’ We’ll leave this natural beauty for the striking man-made architecture of Stirling Castle to the south. Dating from the 14th and 15th centuries, it is one of the largest and most important castles in Scotland. Our final day is in Edinburgh. We’ll walk the medieval and the modern streets of Scotland’s cosmopolitan and friendly capital city. Your lasting image of this memorable outing will be Edinburgh Castle, the fortress that dominates the skyline of the city from its position atop the volcanic Castle Rock.

Day 1: Arrive in Edinburgh, then have the afternoon free. Our first meal together will be a welcome dinner, where we'll get to know one another and preview our itinerary. Our accommodations are in central Edinburgh overlooking the Royal Mile and just minutes from Princes Street and Edinburgh Castle.

Day 2: Take a minibus to Loch Lomond-Trossachs National Park, where we’ll intersect the West Highland Way, one of the world’s most famous long-distance treks. Its total distance is 96 miles, but we’ll be content with the leg from Drymen to Balmaha (8 miles/1,200 feet) for sweeping views of Loch Lomond and the Isle of Arran. Here we’ll truly pass into the Highlands, walking along the Great Highland Fault, which marks the geological transition between the Lowlands and the Highlands. Our accommodations are in the picturesque village of Balmaha, in the shade of a 500-year-old oak tree.

Day 3: Transport to Rannoch Moor for coffee, then meet once again with the West Highland Way for a moderate climb up the Devil’s Staircase and then down to the town of Kinlochleven (8 miles/1,300 feet). The Devil’s Staircase is a prominent hillside trail named in the mid-1700s during Scotland’s major road-building program. Our destination is the area known as Glencoe, renowned for its awesome scenery and savage history (the Glencoe Massacre of 1692). Overnight in Alltshellach.

Day 4: Walk the easy-to-moderate route through the valley of Glencoe, one of the most spectacular and haunting places in Scotland. The glen was initially formed by an ancient super-volcano, then shaped by an ice-age glacier. The resulting stark mountain walls enhance the grim beauty of the narrow glen, less than 1/2 mile wide. Dominating the classic entrance to the valley is the distinctive conical mountain called the Pap of Glencoe; at 2,400 feet directly above the River Coe, a walk along the mountain slopes provides even more striking views of the glen and nearby Loch Leven. Overnight in Alltshellach.

Day 5: Ferry to Isle of Lismore, a fertile, low-lying island that was once a major center of Celtic Christianity; on it are the ruins of two 13th-century castles, a 6th-century monastery, and an Iron Age hollow-walled structure called a broch, of a type found only in Scotland. Our day-long walk starts at the picturesque, old fishing village of Port Ramsay, then we will stop for lunch along the shores of Loch Baile a'Ghobhlainn. Returning to the western shores, we’ll visit the Island Heritage Centre and the ruins of Castle Coeffin, then follow a low ridge to the island’s highest point and return to the ferry via Port Ramsay (8 miles, 700 feet). Overnight in Alltshellach.

Day 6: Visit the iconic Eilean Donan Castle, one of the most visited attractions in the Highlands. Still owned by Clan MacRae, it has been destroyed and rebuilt numerous times throughout its history. Most recently, it's been the location for many Hollywood movies. The original castle was built in the early 13th century as a defense against the Vikings. We'll take time here to discuss Scotland's environmental history and, in particular, the future of Scotland's salmon fisheries. Our stay for two nights is an award-winning hotel situated in the picturesque settlement of Plockton on the shores of Loch Carron, yet another wonderfully scenic area of the Highlands.

Day 7: Travel to the Isle of Skye, Scotland’s largest island, a land of beauty and myth. A short walk in the John Muir Trust Garden gives striking views of the jagged mountains known as the Black Cullins. We’ll tour the world-famous Talisker distillery to sample its sweet, full-bodied single malt whisky and then hike the nearby Glen Brittle Forest with mountain streams tumbling into the popular waterfalls known as the Fairy Pools (5 miles/500 feet). Though often cloudy ("Skye" is the Norse word for cloud!), the weather actually brings a sense of mystery to the island, and any rain showers are more than made up for by the spectacular scenery and the legendary single malt whisky. Return to our hotel in Plockton for a second night.

Day 8: On to Loch Ness, the second largest inland lake in Scotland (after Loch Lomond, and due to its great depth, it is the largest by volume). Overlooking Loch Ness is Urquhart Castle, a dramatic ruin with a long and bloody history. The present ruins date from the 13th to the 16th centuries and were built on the site of an earlier medieval fortification. Once one of Scotland’s mightiest strongholds, Urquhart’s strategic location gave it a key role in the Scottish battle for independence. For an even grander view of Loch Ness, we’ll walk a section of the Great Glen Way (8 miles/1,000 feet) along splendid forest trails and look eagerly down into the dark waters of the Loch for Nessie, one of the most elusive, celebrated creatures of modern times. Overnight in the small Victorian village of Pitlochry.

Day 9: Our highlight today is Stirling Castle, one of the largest and most important castles, both historically and architecturally, in Scotland. Many of the principal buildings date from the 15th and 16th centuries. Dominating the skyline for miles around, it is probably the grandest castle in Scotland and a formidable symbol of Scottish independence. Great Scottish figures such as William Wallace, Robert the Bruce, and Mary Queen of Scots have all been associated with the castle. We’ll also visit the Church of the Holy Rude, the second oldest building in Stirling after the castle; founded in 1129, the parish church was the location for the coronation of King James VI in 1597. Overnight in Edinburgh.

Day 10: Explore Edinburgh, the world-famous capital of Scotland with its narrow medieval streets and Georgian squares, along with a dynamic modern dimension that hosts international festivals, cutting-edge arts, and delightful restaurants. Edinburgh is a friendly, cosmopolitan city, but with a noticeably Scottish flavor. The city center has two distinct parts: New Town to the north has Princes Street and the main shopping street; Old Town to the south and east of castle ridge is brimming with history among the atmospheric, medieval cobbled streets and alleys. 

We’ll visit Edinburgh Castle, the fortress that dominates the skyline of the city from its position atop the volcanic Castle Rock. The Scottish used Edinburgh Castle for all of their major battles and military strategizing. An imposing symbol of their perseverance and struggle for independence, Edinburgh Castle is one of the top tourist attractions in Scotland. We’ll visit the Palace of Holyroodhouse, Her Majesty the Queen's official residence in Scotland; we can view the Royal Apartments, which reflect the changing tastes of monarchs over the years. Overnight in Edinburgh.

Day 11: Return flights to the U.S. or continue this marvelous adventure in the United Kingdom.

Getting There

The trip begins and ends in Edinburgh. The trip start date is August 29th. A day is lost when traveling to the UK. To help recover from time zone differences and allow for possible delays while traveling, we suggest arriving a day or two before the start of the trip. Please note, leader approval is required to participate in this trip. Do not make travel arrangements until directed by the leader. You will make your own travel arrangements to the United Kingdom and then to our hotel in central Edinburgh. 

Accommodations and Food

Outside Edinburgh we’ll stay in several small, charming hotels and inns. They are picturesque and peaceful home bases for exploring nearby regions. They have spacious living rooms and garden grounds with views, delightful for comfortable relaxation after our daily walk or tour. Rooms are double-occupancy; a roommate will be provided for solo travelers. Single rooms may be available for a single supplement, but this will depend on the final makeup of the group. In all rooms, there will be a bathroom. All breakfasts and dinners are provided, with vegetarian options available. Lunch supplies can be purchased at local markets or packed lunches can be purchased from accommodations on our route.

Trip Difficulty

This is an active trip with a variety of activities suitable for ages from teenager to senior adults, as long as you are in good health, get regular exercise, enjoy rural hikes, and have a good-humored, flexible approach to travel. We are transported by private minibus to towns, historic sites, and trailheads for walks. Our hikes will be six to nine miles at a leisurely pace on established trails and paths. However, the trails may be narrow, uneven, or rocky, or have short, steep sections or irregular steps to climb. Streets in historic towns are made of cobblestones and are often uneven. It is essential to have hiking boots with ankle support for the hikes and comfortable and supportive shoes for city walking. As always, the better physical shape you are in, the more you will enjoy the trip. Before the trip, plan some walks and hikes on paths and pavement going up and down hills. 

Equipment and Clothing

The climate in Scotland in early September is usually pleasant, with temperatures in the low 60s during the day and in the high 40s in the evening. Scottish weather is changeable; be prepared for sun, rain, and wind. Dress will be casual and comfortable. Raingear is essential (including waterproof pants) for hiking; an umbrella for cities is a good idea. A small day pack for water, camera, snacks, a picnic lunch, warm extra layers, and waterproofs is required. A walking stick or trekking poles are advisable. Your leader will provide additional pre-trip information, including a comprehensive packing list, to registered participants. 

References

Books:

• Gracie, James, Spectacular Scotland. 2013. Great photography.
• Herman, Arthur, How the Scots Invented the Modern World: The True Story of How Western Europe's Poorest Nation Created Our World. 2007. Cites crucial contributions to science, philosophy, literature, commerce, and politics that have formed and nurtured the modern West ever since.
• Lonely Planet, Scotland's Highlands & Islands. 2nd Edition, 2012. All the most relevant and up-to-date advice on what to see, what to skip, and what hidden discoveries await you.
• Magnusson, Magnus, Scotland: The Story of a Nation. 2003. Encompasses everything from the first Mesolithic settlers in 7000 B.C. to the present movements for independence.
• Oliver, Neil, A History of Scotland: Look Behind the Mist and Myth of Scottish History. 2011. Something of a revisionist view on how Scotland forged its own identity despite its union with England in 1707.
• Smout, T.C. Nature Contested: Environmental History in Scotland and Northern England since 1600. Combining geology, natural history, politics, and cultural history to the Scottish landscape.
• Wrightham, Mark (editor), Hostile Habitats: Scotland’s Mountain Environment. 2006. This excellent guide is an introduction to the ecology and geology of the region where we are hiking.

Conservation

The Sierra Club is an environmentally focused entity. We are concerned about conservation and sustainability of resources, both locally and globally. Our work is accomplished by volunteers and aided by a salaried staff, encouraging grassroots involvement. Our outings seek to empower participants toward environmentally understanding parallel concerns at home and abroad.

In land area, Scotland is almost equal to England, but it has about an eighth of the population, mostly south of the Highlands. Recently, recreational pressures have raised the issue of creating national parks to prevent fragile areas -- such as the moors around Loch Lomond -- from damage or destruction. We will discuss the impacts that tourism brings to all countries and the methods available to offset these impacts for individuals and social organizations.

We have partnered on this trip with a not-for-profit, co-operative hiking holiday society founded over 100 years ago by British outdoor pioneer Thomas Arthur Leonard, who was a contemporary of the Sierra Club’s founder John Muir. The concessionaire still contributes to the John Muir Trust in Scotland and has its own charitable fund called Pathways, which contributes to the maintenance of footpaths all over the UK, including pathways around Glencoe. We will be staying at one of their country houses, and one of their expert volunteer guides will accompany us on all our hikes. They will assist in the discussion of prominent environmental issues, such as: renewable energy in Scotland, the impacts of tourism, the loss of ancient Caledonian pine forests, restoration ecology and reforesting efforts, and the conservation of Atlantic salmon.

Evacuation and Travel Insurance

The Sierra Club provides evacuation insurance to all participants on international trips. Since this coverage does not include any trip cancellation or interruption insurance, we suggest you purchase another policy separately to provide coverage for your trip and other travel costs. This policy also does not cover pre-trip and post-trip travel. Please note the evacuation insurance provided does not cover claims resulting from any pre-existing condition that occurs within 60 days of the trip departure. If you have specific questions about this exclusion, please review the insurance brochure. For information on purchasing a separate policy, please see our travel insurance page.