Heart of the Gila: Canyons, Rivers, and Hot Springs of the Gila Wilderness, New Mexico

The Trip

Rugged canyons, sweeping mountain vistas, hoodoos, hot springs, and cliff dwellings lead us deep into the heart of the Gila Wilderness as it celebrates 100 years as the world’s first officially designated wilderness. Our trek will take us from riparian canyons filled with cottonwoods and scores of river crossings to the dry high country dominated by pinyon pines and grasslands, providing a taste of the famed diversity of this unique wilderness.

This early season trip is for adventurous spirits looking to be awed and surprised by this iconic landscape. River crossings will dominate our canyon hiking, so wet feet will be the norm. We may deviate from established trails as floods, fires or downed trees may impede our progress. We will also soak in warm backcountry natural pools, look up into an infinitely dark star-filled night sky and even spot wild javelinas, black bears or cougars in this true wilderness. 

Our route begins near the headwaters of the Gila River near the Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument where we will have ample time to explore cliff dwellings built into the walls of the canyon by the Mogollon culture. This area around the Gila headwaters is considered one of unique archaeological abundance, with more than 103 prehistoric sites, including the Cliff Dweller Canyon with 46 rooms and TJ Ruin, an open pueblo that contains possibly 200 rooms. The Mogollon peoples are believed to have inhabited the region from between 1275 and into the early 14th century, during the Pueblo III Era. The Chiricahua Apache also consider the Gila Wilderness to be their ancestral homeland.

In 1921, upon hearing that the undeveloped headwaters of the Gila were going to be “improved” for grazing access, Carson National Forest Supervisor Aldo Leopold began petitioning for “a continuous stretch of country preserved in its natural state,” and sent a wilderness proposal to his superiors in Washington D.C. In 1924 his proposal was accepted, and the forest service set aside 500,000 acres surrounding the Gila river to become the first federally recognized wilderness area in the country.  It would then take another 40 years for the wilderness act to be signed into law. 

“Wilderness is the one kind of playground which mankind cannot build to order.” - Aldo Leopold

This itinerary provides a general outline of our plans for the trip. How far we travel and where we get each day will be determined by how we feel, trail conditions, and weather. It is important that all participants bring an adventurous, flexible spirit to this journey.

Day 1: We will meet in the afternoon at a campground near the Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument for introductions, trip briefing and dinner. We will camp for two nights at the campground.

Day 2: We will take the day to explore the nearby archeological sites and cliff dwellings and possibly hike to a hot spring.

Day 3-4: After breakfast we will distribute food and gear, depart our campground, then drive a short distance to the parking lot near our trailhead. We’ll spend our first two days crossing back and forth through a narrow and rugged portion of the West Fork of the Gila River. Depending on conditions after winter snow, navigating river crossings and trails could slow our progress. 

Day 5: After spending the night in a delightful area at the base of a canyon, we will begin to veer away from the river, ascending to a higher plateau. Our departure from the West Fork will be our last water source until the end of the day. Although we hope to camp near water, we will carry enough to get us through a dry camp if required.

Day 6: Continuing along the plateau we eventually reach the rim of the Middle Fork Gila River canyon.  The descent into the canyon is steep but rewarding with stunning views of the river and gorge.  Tonight’s camp is near a meadow with plentiful water and space. 

Day 7: Today we follow the Middle Fork downstream, resuming our pattern of wayfinding and river crossings.  We will camp along the bank of the river. 

Day 8: The intermixed river crossings and trail hiking continue today, and we are rewarded by camping near a beautiful warm springs pool, a great place to soak our tired feet.

Day 9: After departing camp we continue down the canyon and eventually reach a narrow slot canyon which we will hike into if there is no risk of flash flood.  The canyon trail offers respite from the river crossings and a new variety of scenery.  Eventually the trail ends near our parked cars.

Getting There

The trip begins and ends near the Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument. The nearest airport is the regional Grant County Airport in Silver City (2-hour drive), servicing non-stop flights from Phoenix and Albuquerque.  Major airports with more flight options are in Tucson, AZ (4-hour drive); El Paso, TX (4.5 hour drive) and Albuquerque (5 hour drive).  In any case a rental car is necessary, though it may be possible for participants to self-arrange a shuttle from Silver City.  Ridesharing is strongly encouraged, and a roster of trip members will be sent to approved participants.

Please do not make travel arrangements until the leader has confirmed you as a trip member. We also recommend that you do not plan to fly on the last day of the trip as we cannot guarantee completing the trip at a specific time. 

Please do not make non-refundable travel arrangements until notified to do so by the trip leader.

Accommodations and Food

All meals and snacks will be provided, beginning with dinner on the first day through lunch on the final day. We will offer a variety of nutritious, easy-to-prepare meals. Vegetarians can be easily accommodated, but participants unable to eat either dairy or gluten should consider another outing. Sierra Club provides stoves and cooking equipment, which are divided up among all the participants at the trailhead. Cooking and clean-up duties will be shared by all participants on a pre-assigned basis.

All water will come from creeks, potholes, or the river and must be purified. Participants will be responsible for bringing their own method of water purification (chlorine tablets, filter, steri-pen, etc.).

The Park Service, as well as Leave No Trace principles requires that all trash be packed out. Ziploc-type bags will be provided for packing out used toilet paper. Our first campsite has pit toilets; at the other camps, participants will dig catholes and pack out their own trash.

Trip Difficulty

This trip is rated strenuous (4) due to rough terrain and large number of river crossings (50+). Daily backpacking distances average 5-7 miles, with maximum daily altitude gain/loss of 1,500 feet. The minimum level of conditioning required for enjoying this route may be approximated by the ability to climb and descend 1,500 feet over rough terrain for 5 or more miles in half a day with a pack weighing 35-40 pounds. The large number of river crossings, extreme temperatures of high desert hiking, steep terrain, substantial altitude gain/loss, and occasional narrow, exposed trails all mean that participants will be exposed to a higher level of difficulty than on many Sierra Club trips. We will hike on many trails that have been unmaintained or are not readily apparent. These factors make proper pre-trip conditioning essential.

This trip has portions with significant exposure -- short stretches of rugged trail or rock where a fall may result in severe injury, or worse. Excellent balance and sure footedness are essential. If you have a fear of heights, deep rushing water or falling this may not be the adventure for you! If you have done a multi-day mountain or desert backpack within the last year and are in excellent physical condition, chances are you will be able to enjoy this trip.

Phone consultations with the trip leader will be held with applicants prior to approval for this trip to assure it will be enjoyed safely by individual participants and by the group as a whole.

Equipment and Clothing

Weather this time of year is variable. At best, temperatures should be warm but not excessively hot during the day (65-80 degrees), with temperatures at night around 30-40 degrees. However, participants must come prepared for a range of weather conditions, ranging from hot and sunny to freezing or wet.

A comprehensive list of recommended equipment will be sent to participants after trip approval. Essentials include a backpack (internal frame preferred), sleeping bag (15 - 20 degree), sleeping pad, waterproof tent, and clothing suitable for a range of temperatures from hot to cold. Since we will be doing multiple river crossings, we strongly recommend wearing non Gore-Tex, non-waterproof boots as we will keep our boots on during stream crossings. Some folks also find neoprene socks helpful.

Because you will be carrying up to 18 pounds of commissary gear and food, it is essential that your personal equipment weigh as little as possible for a total (without water and group gear) of 20 pounds or less.

If you do not have a lightweight pack, tent, and sleeping bag suitable for this environment, you might want to consider purchasing new equipment. The leader can give you advice about suitable gear, and stores such as REI provide details about many lightweight options even if you choose to purchase or rent equipment elsewhere.

References

Websites

• Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument - https://www.nps.gov/gicl/index.htm
• Gila National Forest - https://www.fs.usda.gov/gila
• The Aldo Leopold Foundation:  https://www.aldoleopold.org
• Aldo Leopold, A Sand Country Almanac: And Sketches Here and There, Oxford University Press, 1949.
• Cunningham, Bill & Polly, Hiking New Mexico’s Gila Wilderness: A Guide to the Area’s Greatest Hiking Adventures, Falcon Guides, 2017.
• Allen, Elizabeth Hightower (editor), First and Wildest: The Gila Wilderness at 100, Torrey House Press, 2022.
• Gila Wilderness Map Pack: East Map and West Map (our route will be on the East Map).

Books

• Aldo Leopold, A Sand Country Almanac: And Sketches Here and There, Oxford University Press, 1949.
• Cunningham, Bill & Polly, Hiking New Mexico’s Gila Wilderness: A Guide to the Area’s Greatest Hiking Adventures, Falcon Guides, 2017.
• Allen, Elizabeth Hightower (editor), First and Wildest: The Gila Wilderness at 100, Torrey House Press, 2022.

Maps

• Gila Wilderness Map Pack: East Map and West Map (our route will be on the East Map).
• US Forest Service Map:  Gila National Forest

Conservation

The conservation focus for this trip will be the role of wilderness in the preservation of biological, natural, and cultural resources. The Greater Gila Bioregion is larger and more diverse than Yellowstone, with a rich and sacred cultural landscape. It is the focus of many wilderness and wildlife preservation campaigns, including efforts to

• prevent low-flying military aircraft,
• protect the Gila River from diversion,
• designate the Gila River as a Wild and Scenic River,
• retirement of grazing leases, and
• protection of Mexican Grey Wolves.

On our trip, we will have the opportunity to learn more about these issues and what we can do to help protect this iconic landscape.

The Sierra Club is an environmentally focused organization. We are concerned about conservation and sustainability of resources, both locally and globally. Our work is accomplished by volunteers, including your trip leaders, and aided by a salaried staff, encouraging grassroots involvement. Our outings seek to empower participants toward greater understanding, advocacy and participation in the goals of the Club.

Sierra Club's motto is "Explore, Enjoy and Protect the Planet." Your volunteer leaders love bringing groups to "explore and enjoy" remote places in the Gila Wilderness, in the hope that participants will be motivated to help protect them. We'll take time to reflect on our most enjoyable experiences during the trip, and what needs to be done to protect the Gila river, the desert Southwest, and the wild places we all love back home.

Sierra Club National Outings is an equal-opportunity provider and when applicable will operate under permits obtained from U.S. federal land agencies.