Up and Over the Sierra Crest in Ansel Adams Wilderness and Yosemite National Park, California

The Trip

“The glaciers were the pass makers of the Sierra, and by them the ways of all mountaineers have been determined.” - John Muir, Picturesque California, 1888

This trip is part nature walk, geology hike, and history lesson. It is designed for the intermediate backpacker who has an interest in the natural world and is willing to take time to learn more about it. We begin on the east side of the Sierra Nevada, at the base of volcanic Mammoth Mountain along the rushing Middle Fork of the San Joaquin River. From here we will enter Ansel Adams Wilderness and head north along the Sierra Crest. Days will be warm. Trails should be clear of snow. Lakes should be ice-free. Come prepared for steep uphill climbs and long downhill descents while carrying a loaded pack. With notebook, camera, or smartphone we can record the sights, sounds, and memories of the high country as it comes to life in alpine spring.

Our trail follows portions of ancient trading routes used by early Californians thousands of years ago. In those times, the earth was cooler than today with glacier-skirted mountains being a common sight. Fortunately, sharp peaks poked up through icy landscapes providing navigational landmarks we can still use today. Our route crosses two major passes where we might pause to reflect on the many histories of early California and the many peoples who have passed this way. 

As we cross the Crest into Yosemite National Park, we will linger near Yosemite’s last living glacier. A steep descent into lush meadows of Lyell Canyon, shaped by glacial ice some 20,000 years ago, rewards us with flat, even terrain. Here, we can share our weeklong collection of sights, sounds, and checklists to reflect on what these mountains still have and contemplate what is at risk of being lost.

Our trip up and over the Sierra Crest offers panoramic views, spectacular scenery, and a variety of wildlife. Join us. Find out what stories the mountains will inspire in you.

Day 1: We will meet in the early afternoon in Tuolumne Meadows (elevation 8,600 feet) for introductions and trip orientation. Shuttle arrangements to Mammoth Lakes will be coordinated before heading to our campsite for the night. A scale will be available to weigh packs. Leaders are happy to offer advice on pack adjustments. A hearty dinner will be served. Afterward, we will distribute bear cans and commissary gear, and assign cook crews.

Day 2: An early start allows time to complete our shuttle to the trailhead (elevation 8,300 feet), which is an hour’s drive away. Our trek will seem easy at first as we descend 200 feet in the first 2 miles. However, the next 2.5 miles require a steep 900-foot climb to an elevation of 9,000 feet. Several streams must be crossed along the way. We’ll set up camp along the San Joaquin Middle Fork. Total distance: 4.5 miles. Elevation gain: 700 feet.

Day 3: The day begins with another steep 900-foot climb to the Pacific Crest Trail. Afterward, the trail is level until Thousand Island Lake (elevation 9,850 feet), aptly named for the many tiny islands dotting its surface. We expect to arrive in time for lunch beneath picturesque Banner Peak and the Ritter Range. Once camp has been set up, there will be time for an optional day hike to explore the lake and identify fish that occasionally pop up to pick insects from the surface. Total distance: 4 miles. Elevation gain: 850 feet.

Day 4: Layover day! After a hearty breakfast, we’ll leave packs behind and set off on an optional dayhike across a meadow accented with red Indian Paintbrush. We will encounter small streams, and keep an eye out for tiny frogs camouflaged in the grass. We can climb a talus slope to listen for the calls of pika and look for signs of the haypiles they will be gathering to store for winter. After dinner, leaders will introduce a conservation topic for discussion. Participants wishing to introduce a topic of their own are welcomed to do so. Total day hike distance will be about 6-7 miles.

Day 5: With a welcomed lightness to our packs, today's climb leads up and over Island Pass (elevation 10,200 feet). We then descend nearly 900 feet over 2 miles to Rush Creek Trail junction. Depending on weather and the group’s abilities, we may camp in this beautiful area (elevation 9,700 feet) or decide to become serious alpine trekkers and continue another 3 miles up to spectacular Marie Lakes (elevation 10,800 feet). Total distance: 4.5-7.5 miles. Elevation gain: 700-1,500 feet.

Day 6: This is a big day. Donohue Pass (11,073 feet) and Yosemite’s Park boundary awaits! We’ll get an early start to beat any rain clouds that could gather in the afternoon. We will ascend 1,400 feet in 4 miles. Atop the Crest, we can peer down on the Tuolumne's lush river watershed and compare it to the less green San Joaquin we are leaving behind. We will carefully weave our way down steep switchbacks and pause beneath glacial remnants of Mt. Lyell and Mt. MacClure. Both were studied by John Muir, who was the first to prove they were indeed slow moving rivers of ice. We’ll continue to MacClures Creek to camp (elevation 9,800 feet). Total distance: 6 miles. Elevation gain: 1,500 feet. Elevation loss: 1,400 feet.

Day 7: Our trail continues its steep descent down the Sierra Crest another 2 miles before leveling out to a mostly flat path through the rest of Lyell Canyon. Here, butterflies and wildflowers abound. Birds call out to mates tending young as hawks circle overhead. We’ll make our way to a campsite beneath the Kuna Crest near a quiet creek flowing into the Lyell Fork (elevation 8,800 feet). Using smartphone and digital technology, the leaders will enable photos and audio soundscapes to be shared with the group so we can compare and contrast environmental differences up and over the Sierra Crest. Total distance: 5 miles. Elevation loss: 1,200 feet.

Day 8: We’ll awake to a mist drifting up from the water that quickly burns off with the rising sun. As we break camp, we may feel both joy and regret at moving on. Our final trek is an easy descent to Tuolumne Meadows, where we’ll say our goodbyes at journey’s end. Total distance: 6 miles. Elevation loss: 700 feet.

Getting There

We will meet in the early afternoon at a designated location near Tuolumne Meadows (elevation 8,600 feet) on the Tioga Pass Road, State Route 120. Tuolumne Meadows is approximately 210 miles east of both San Francisco (SFO) and Oakland (OAK). It is 160 miles southeast of Reno (RNO) Airport. Convenient airports for car rentals are Sacramento, Reno, San Francisco, San Jose, and Oakland. If driving, plan on at least 5 hours from San Francisco to Tuolumne Meadows and 4 hours from Sacramento or Reno. Public transportation to Tuolumne Meadows is available via Yosemite Area Regional Transporation System and Eastern Sierra Transit Authority.

Because our trailhead begins near Mammoth Lakes, the leader will provide instructions on a one-hour car shuttle, and where we will park cars. More information on this will be sent to approved participants at a later date. Our trip is expected to end at Tuolumne Meadows by 3 p.m. However, due to the unpredictable nature of wilderness travel, return flight reservations should be booked for the following day. A roster of trip members will be sent in advance to facilitate ride-sharing and other trip plans. Participants are responsible for their own transportation to and from our meeting site in Tuolumne Meadows.

All participants are encouraged to arrive a day or two early to allow adequate time to acclimate to high altitude. Altitude sickness is real. It can affect anyone regardless of age or conditioning. Please take time to understand how elevation affects you, and learn ways to mitigate these symptoms. 

A roster of trip members will be sent in advance to help facilitate pre-trip plans. Please do not make non-refundable travel arrangements until notified to do so by the trip leader. Travel insurance is recommended.

Accommodations and Food

All permits, camping fees, snacks (trail mix), and meals are included. Our first meal is a hearty dinner on the first night. A light lunch will be offered the last day. Meals include tasty soups and one-pot recipes that are lightweight, flavorful, and healthy. All meals are vegetarian based with meat, dairy, and nuts to be added on the side. Group gear will be equally divided and weigh no more than 15 lbs. Be aware that all food and scented toiletries must be stored in bear cans, which leaves little room for extra personal food. All trip members will be divided into cook crews and share the responsibilities of meal preparation and clean up.

If you have dietary restrictions or food allergies, please contact the leader before signing up to know whether your needs can be accommodated. It works best if we can create recipes flexible enough so that most of your food can be prepared with the group’s in one pot.

Trip Difficulty

This trip is rated 3 on a scale of 1 to 5 -- with 5 being "very strenuous." Although 3 falls in the middle of the distribution, this is not an easy trip. Hiking uphill at high altitude with a 40-pound backpack is by definition hard. Our route covers 37 miles, including a layover day hike. There are stream crossings to negotiate, which require good balance. Snowfields may be present at high passes. Campsites are perched between 8,600 and 10,300 feet (although see Day 5’s itinerary above). Our highest pass will top 11,000 feet. We expect to break camp most mornings by 8:30 a.m. and reach the next camp by early afternoon, barring unforeseen distractions or difficulties.

The trip is designed with the intermediate backpacker in mind. It takes a challenging route and divides it into smaller, more managable sections. Early mileage and/or elevation gains are relatively small, compared to later in the trip when we are better acclimated and our bear cans are less full. The trip is ideal for nature-loving trekkers. Participants should have recent backpacking experience to elevations of 8,000 feet, or more. Lightweight equipment and the knowledge of how to reduce pack weight is helpful. Well-conditioned, enthusiastic beginners with a commitment to training and acquiring lightweight gear may be considered, as long as they take a multi-night backpacking trip before our departure date. Beginners should contact the leader to discuss this option further before signing up for the trip.

We will set a moderate walking pace (35-50 minute/mile pace), depending on trail conditions. The intent is for all participants to stay within eyesight of the person in front of and behind them. Along our route, leaders will be recording environmental and geologic changes as journal entries or using species checklists.  Photographs and audio recordings will be collected on smart devices to be shared on the final night.  Participants are encouraged to join in and do the same. We will practice Leave No Trace principles.

Participants must be in good physical condition and have previous backpacking experience. Hiking, running, and cycling are good activities, but nothing replaces walking up and down steep hills with a loaded backpack. Development of strong legs, ankles, and knees are key to tolerating steep downhill sections. Please complete, sign, and return the questionnaire included in your confirmation packet to the leader in a timely fashion so the approval process can proceed quickly and you can start your trip preparations.

Equipment and Clothing

In addtion to all food, we provide pots, cooking utensils, stoves, fuel, and bear-proof cans. You will be issued a bear can loaded with food along with cooking gear that together weighs approximately 15 pounds. Please aim to limit personal gear to 20-22 pounds; definitely no more than 25 pounds (excluding water) will be allowed. A water carrying capacity of at least 2-liters is required. We will have a group water filter for use in camp. However, everyone should have their own lightweight water treatment (filter, steripen, or chemical) for personal use on the trail.

Sturdy, broken-in, waterproof boots with rubber lug soles are required along with a pack with a capacity that holds a bear can plus commissary gear (typically 65 L). For shelter, we recommend a tent with a rain fly. For raingear, bring waterproof jacket and pants. No ponchos. Mosquito and sun protection are strongly recommended.

The High Sierra is renowned for its excellent summer weather; however, extended storms can occur at any time of the year. Afternoon thunderstorms, with sudden cloudbursts of wind, rain, hail, or even snow are not uncommon. Be prepared for extremes: high temperatures during the day may exceed 80 degrees then fall into the 30s at night. In July, we may encounter high water at stream crossings or snowfields on passes. A flexible attitude and positive mindset is necessary in case our itinerary is forced to change due to unforeseen conditions or circumstance. 

The leader will send a detailed equipment list to participants well in advance of the trip. More information regarding personal gear may be found at the following link: www.knapsack.org/basic_equipment.html.

References

Maps:

Please bring your own map for personal safety and to fully appreciate our route through an inspiring landscape.

• Tom Harrison’s Ansel Adams Wilderness Map is ideal for this trip: https://tomharrisonmaps.com/shop/ansel_adams_wilderness.

Books:

• Beedy, E.C., and E.R. Pandolfino. Birds of the Sierra Nevada. Their natural history, status, and distribution. University of California Press, Berkeley, CA.  2013. (Current treatise on Sierra Nevada birds and their ecology).
• Clark, G. Ansel Adams Wilderness. Western Trails Publications. Lake Havasu City, AZ. 2001. 
• Glazner, A.F. and G.M. Stock. Geology Underfoot in Yosemite National Park. Mountain Press Publishing Co., Missoula, MO. 2010. (Nice discussion of glaciers and Lyell Canyon). 
• Grinnell, J. and T.I. Stor. Animal Life in the Yosemite. University of California Press. Berkeley, CA. 1924.
• Laws, J.M. The Laws Field Guide to the Sierra Nevada. California Academy of Sciences, Heyday Press, Berkeley, CA. (Excellent guide to plants and wildlife of the Sierra Nevada). 2007. 
• Lightfoot, K.G. and O. Parrish. California Indians and their Environment, An Introduction. University of California Press, Berkeley, CA. 2009. 
• Schaffer, J.P. Yosemite. Must-do Hikes for Everyone. Wilderness Press. Berkeley, CA. 2007. 
• Sweedo, S. Hiking Yosemite National Park. A guide to 61 of the Park’s greatest hiking adventures. 4th edition. Falcon Guides, Guilford, CT. 2016. 

Web Links and Online Videos:

• Glaciers:
• California’s disappering Glaciers: a defining moment. https://www.kqed.org/science/3284/californias-vanishing-glaciers-a-defining-moment
• Glaciers (Yosemite National Park): https://www.nps.gov/yose/learn/nature/glaciers.htm
• Plants and Animals:
• Animal Life in the Yosemite: https://www.nps.gov/parkhistory/online_books/grpo
• Grinnell Resurvey Project, University of California, Berkeley: http://mvz.berkeley.edu/Grinnell
• Yosemite Nature Notes – 1 - Wildflowers: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TySX9tkjQcA&feature=youtu.be&list=PL890957589F8403A4
• PBS Nature Presents Yosemite, 2017. VIDEOS: Scenes from Yosemite National Park, Pika or Pikachu (J. Brady, author): https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=1&v=E0f1noOj0Vs
• Yosemite National Park, Fish: https://www.nps.gov/yose/learn/nature/fish.htm
• Audubon: Birds and Climate Change in Our National Parks (Yosemite National Park): https://www.audubon.org/climate/national-parks/yosemite-national-park
• Wildlife Checklists:
• Yosemite’s Wildlife Observation Card (download the pdf): https://www.nps.gov/yose/learn/nature/upload/YOSE_wildfrm1and2_one%20page.%202008%20rev.pdf
• Yosemite Bird Checklist (downloadable pdf, useful to have if you are a birder): https://www.nps.gov/yose/learn/nature/upload/yosebirdchecklist.pdf

Conservation

The Sierra Club is an environmentally focused entity. We are concerned about conservation and sustainability of resources, both locally and globally. Our work is accomplished by volunteer leaders and aided by a salaried staff, who encourage grassroots involvement. Outings seek to empower participants toward a greater understanding of the natural world and participation in the goals of the Club.

Our trip will encounter a wide range of conservation topics with climate change being chief among them. These mountains are a perfect place to see changes happening now on a warming earth. Information we record at specific camp locations can be compared to past scientific studies. It can be saved and compared later during future backpacking trips. Time series data are powerful tools in science as they can prove beyond doubt that change has occurred. The leader will provide species checklists from earlier studies along with old impages of Lyell and MacClure glaciers to use as comparisons of change. Write your own story of how the mountains have changed. Share it with the group. Weave into it with concerns over dwindling populations of pika and the loss of glacier-fed streams necessary for fragile aquatic ecosystems of alpine frogs. Then take your story home and share it with family and friends.

Sierra Club National Outings is an equal-opportunity provider and will operate under a permit from the Inyo National Forest and Yosemite National Park.