Teen Backpacking Into Yosemite's Alpine World of Fish and Frogs, California

The Trip

Before the Gold Rush, there were no fish in high Sierra lakes above 6,000 feet. Instead, the alpine waterscape was totally dominated by a cacophony of “tronks” and shrill “twitterings,” cheery “cricks” and baritone “croaks” of native frogs. At night, it must have been deafening.

During the years following California’s Gold Rush, miners, settlers, and members of the Sierra Club brought several varieties of trout in buckets, coffee cups, or packed in the panniers of mule trains and released them into sparkling blue fishless lakes as a source of food and recreation. Today, trout fishing has become a multibillion-dollar recreational industry benefiting local mountain communities. Unfortunately, releasing predatory trout into crystal clear lakes full of frog eggs and tadpoles left fish with little choice of what to eat. Today, the yellow-legged frog, which was once the most abundant vertebrate in the mountains, has disappeared from 93% of its historical range. Similarly, populations of Yosemite toads have declined by 50%. The Sierran Treefrog, meanwhile, has not suffered such devastating declines. It now has become the most common frog species at most high-country lakes, especially those with fish. Shortly after sunset during our trip, we will likely hear the occasional “rib-its,” or “krek-eks” of Sierran treefrogs. During the day, if one is paying attention, they might catch a flash of golden legs leaping through the air moments before hearing a “plop-splash” of a frog entering the lake. The frogs are still here.

This trip is a 9-day, science-based educational adventure focused on the ecology of native alpine frogs. It is set in the headwaters of two major watersheds that have been engineered, rerouted, and now managed to provide water for two of California’s largest cities (San Francisco and Los Angeles). Our trip is timed for late-July, also considered early summer by Sierra Nevada standards. However, climate warming has slowly accelerated the spring snow melt leaving summer water supplies for frogs at the mercy of retreating glaciers; slowly, permanently melting away.

The conservation goal of this trip is to promote discussions and awareness of California’s mountain water supplies, not only for the survival and persistence of alpine frogs, but for the continued sustainability of our own cities and towns. We will participate in daily day hikes with leaders while we collect water quality samples, environmental data, and estimate frog abundance. Participants will learn to recognize frogs (or tadpoles) by sight and recognizing each species’ unique calls. 

This trip is designed for well-conditioned 13-17 year old teens with some prior backpacking experience. The distance is 45 miles. The trip is rated as a level 3 but leans toward the more difficult end of that spectrum.

Our trip will traverse ancient trails through unceded lands belonging to the Ahwahnechee, Miwok, Paiute, Mono, and other tribes who managed their alpine waterscapes as stewards for thousands of years, and who also created their own names for water and frogs. We will recognize the Sierra Miwok and Northern Paiute peoples by learning to speak their words for water (“Kiku” and “Paa’a”) and frog (“Wa’tak” and “Pa’mogo”). By the time we summit Yosemite’s west-facing slope of the “Kay-o-pha” (Miwok for the Sierra’s Sky Mountains), we will begin to see for ourselves the differences in the abundance of Kiku and Paa’a on either side of the Sierra Crest. 

On our last night the calls of Wa’tak and Pa’mogo may be lost in the singing of Kiku and Paa’a in the Tuolumne River. After dinner, the leader will summarize all data collected during the trip, compare it to data from previous trips, and then initiate a discussion on the survival of frogs in a future of climate change, and how this future might similarly impact our own communities. Maybe we will even come up with a few novel ways to protect our water resources in the process.

Sierra Club leaders of outings with unaccompanied minors are subject to additional leadership requirements. These requirements include undergoing background checks and participation in child abuse recognition and prevention training, and mandatory reporting. The most important aspect of any Sierra Club National Outing is the health and safety of each participant. Please contact the trip leader if you have additional questions after reading this complete trip description.

Day 1: We will meet in the early afternoon at a campsite near the trailhead to weigh packs, get to know each other, and review safety topics. The group will participate in a demonstration on how to do simple shore surveys to estimate frogs’ abundance and collect environmental information that will tell us more about frog habitats. Following dinner, we will enjoy a short evening slideshow on native alpine frogs, how to identify them by sight and sound, and then explain the purpose for collecting environmental data during the trip. 

Day 2: After an early breakfast, we will shuttle to the trailhead. Despite starting at 9,600 feet, the first two miles will seem easy. After that we will begin our ascent over Mono Pass (10,600 feet) and drop down slightly to our camp at Upper Sardine Lake, which is stocked with brook trout. Once camp is set up, we will take a short hike to the lake and collect environmental data that can characterize the habitat in and around the lake. Participants will learn to use a small portable weather station and test strips (like those from aquarium stores) to assess water quality. Afterwards, we will do our first frog survey along the shore. There should be time left to relax and recover before dinner. We will hike about five miles today and climb around 1,000 feet.

Day 3: This morning we will start at a slow pace and stop to look for frogs at a few fish-free lakes. Despite the altitude, this should be an easy day. As we gradually climb up and over Parker Pass (11,000 feet), we will enter a wide, windswept, U-shaped canyon covered in grasses, willows, and gnarled white bark pines twisted by the brutal winter winds. Our rocky camp lies beneath Koip Peak near a small glacier-fed lake. Once camp is established, we will do our data collection. Today we expect to hike four miles and gain 600 feet.

Day 4: Today we ascend Koip Pass (12,200 feet). “Koip” comes from the Paiute word for mountain sheep, which were once hunted here with obsidian arrowheads mined near Mono Lake. We will get an early start on 23 switchbacks that will ease the climb up an otherwise steep slope. As we go, we will catch glimpses of an Ice Age glacier still resting in its ground-out cirque, spilling water over falls into the small turquoise lake where we camped the night before. We will be met by a chilly wind at the top and views of Mono Basin with its line of volcanic cones far below. From here we will descend into the Rush Creek watershed to our camp at the Alger Lakes (10,600 feet). These lakes are a scenic fishing destination with lots of rainbow and California Golden trout. Will we find any frogs? Remember, fish eat tadpoles and frog eggs. But frogs may surprise us! We will collect data and explore the area after setting up camp then relax sipping our lemonade after hiking five miles, climbing 1,400 feet and descending 2,400 feet. 

Day 5: Today we head mostly downhill to Gem Lake, a reservoir created from one of three hydroelectric dams built along Rush Creek. Reservoirs like this are important to California’s water supply and electricity generation. But they rely on snowmelt to fill them. Will there be enough water to fill Gem Lake in the future? We will find our campsite then do our shore survey to determine if this reservoir is a good place for frogs. Depending on the group’s energy, we may day hike to Clark Lake. The distance is 4 miles and 1,810 feet downhill. 

Day 6: We will start the day with a moderate climb to merge onto the famous Pacific Crest and John Muir trails and find our camp in a meadow beneath Marie Lakes. After camp is set up, we will day hike to Marie Lakes. Depending on the winter’s storms, this high alpine lake may still have snow and ice, but there are both fish and frogs here. Our environmental data will likely show us that this habitat is different from other lakes we’ve been. For one thing, the water is very cold. How do frogs survive the long, harsh winter here? The answers may surprise you. Today we will travel 5.8 miles and climb 1,525 feet.

Day 7: Today is a short trek to a high alpine wetland beneath the Sierra Crest. We may sleep in and have a leisurely pancake breakfast first before checking out and heading to our campsite near a high alpine wetland where many little cirques carved by glaciers are filled with water and a myriad of aquatic life. No fish live here, just as it used to be. We will take our time exploring this area, collect environmental data, and look/listen for frogs. Perhaps we will be motivated to summit Donohue Peak from the Northwest slope; an easy class one peak first climbed in 1895 on horseback by Sergeant Donohue, U.S. Cavalry. Before Yosemite became administered by the National Park Service, it was patrolled by the Army. We may see evidence of the trail blazes they cut into the trees in the shape of a ‘T’. The ‘T’ was to stand for trail, but the miners chided the Army saying they needed the ‘T’ to identify it as a tree. Regardless, this is a day to enjoy this beautiful alpine area. Distance today is about 2 miles with 300 feet elevation gain.

Day 8: With much lighter packs, acclimated lungs, and miles under our boots, today should seem easy, even if the distance is long. We will get back on the PCT/JMT then climb up and over the Sierra Crest to start our descent back into the wetter, greener, warmer Lyell Canyon. Our riverside camp (~ 8,900 feet) offers a very different river and marsh habitat to explore. Will we find frogs? What changes will we see? Before dinner the leader will summarize our data, compare it to data from previous trips, then initiate a group discussion based on all we’ve learned about frogs, future water availability in the watersheds we’ve visited, and changes we may expect to see on a warming planet. Today we will hike 7.7 miles and gain about 900 feet and descend over 2,300 feet.

Day 9: Our last day is another long trek on generally level ground. We expect to reach Tuolumne Meadows by early afternoon. As we say our goodbyes, we will take home memories of stunning alpine waterscapes and charismatic frogs, a small vocabulary of native words, and a better understanding of what is at stake in a future of climate change. We will hike 6.6 miles, gain 200 feet and lose 500 feet today.

Getting There

We will meet at 2:00 PM at a campground close to our entry trailhead on the Tioga Pass Road east of Tuolumne Meadows. The specific campground location and directions for both the campground and exit trailhead will be provided several weeks prior to trip departure. Packs will be weighed before your ride departs. We anticipate returning to the exit Trailhead at Tuolumne Meadows by 2:00 PM. The leader will provide a roster with contact information to facilitate ride-sharing and other logistical details in advance of the trip.

Please do not make non-refundable travel arrangements until notified to do so by the trip leader.

Accommodations and Food

The first trip meal is dinner on our first day. The last meal will be lunch on the final day. The Sierra Club will provide all meals and snacks. Vegetarians are welcome, provided we know of your preference in advance. Cooking and clean-up duties will be shared by all members of the group on a rotating basis. All our food will be carried in Sierra Club provided bear proof canisters. Please do not bring any extra food, such as snacks, as it will not fit into the already stuffed-to-capacity canisters.

Trip Difficulty

This trip is rated 3 (moderate) but at the higher end of that rating. The trip is for well-conditioned 13-17 year old teens with some prior backpacking experience. You must have the ability to carry your own gear (maximum 20 pounds) plus 14-16 pounds of group food and equipment. Proper equipment, a positive attitude, and adequate conditioning are essential for your personal enjoyment and the success of the group effort. We may have to cross snowfields that linger far into the summer and there will be stream crossings. Most days we will be hiking 5-6 hours, including breaks.

Participants must be in good physical condition. Hiking, running, and cycling are good training activities. Adding a fully loaded backpack to your training hikes will help to build muscles specific to backpacking. An overnight backpack trip prior to our trip would be good preparation and give you a chance to test out your gear. Leader approval is required to participate on the trip. The backpack participant responsibilities and information, medical, and participation agreement forms must be completed and returned within 30 days of sign-up. The leader will arrange for a Zoom meeting or telephone call to discuss the trip with each participant prior to approval.

The High Sierra is still well known for its excellent summer weather. However, due to climate change we are seeing more extended storms, including thunderstorms with sudden cloudbursts of wind, rain, hail, and even snow. Be prepared for extremes: hot temperatures during the day can exceed 80 degrees and fall into the low 30s at night.

Equipment and Clothing

The Sierra Club will provide food and group equipment including stoves, pots, bear-proof canisters, cooking utensils, fuel, etc. Packs (minimum size 60L) will be weighed before the trip begins. Bring only lightweight, essential, and tested gear. You will need to limit personal gear, including your pack, to 20 pounds or less, to maintain capacity to carry group gear (about the volume of a paper grocery sack) and at least 2 liters of water (water does not count in your pack weight, but the containers do). We will weigh packs at the campground and review any equipment or gear issues prior to your ride departing. Tent sharing, to save weight, is encouraged and will be facilitated by the leader ahead of time, if requested.

The leaders are happy to provide advice on suitable gear. We will give each participant a new Sierra Club whistle (bring your own lanyard). The leaders will send a list of required and optional equipment after you sign up for the trip.

Electronic devices are allowed but be aware of limited battery life. We will be out of cell phone coverage throughout the trip. The leaders carry Garmin InReach GPS devices with satellite communication capabilities for emergencies.

References

Please bring your own map (or GPS) for both your personal safety and to help you track our progress through an inspiring landscape. Smartphone apps like Gaia or CalTopo are also useful.

Tom Harrison’s Ansel Adams Wilderness Map is ideal for this trip.

https://tomharrisonmaps.com/shop/ansel_adams_wilderness/

Books:

Clark, G. 2001. Ansel Adams Wilderness. Western Trails Publications. Lake Havasu City, AZ.

Glazner, A.F. and G.M. Stock. 2010. Geology Underfoot in Yosemite National Park. Mountain Press Publishing Co., Missoula, MO. (nice discussion of glaciers and Lyell Canyon).

Laws, J.M. 2007. The Laws Field Guide to the Sierra Nevada. California Academy of Sciences, Heyday Press, (excellent guide to plants and wildlife of the Sierra Nevada).

Lightfoot, K.G. and O. Parrish. 2009. California Indians and their Environment, An Introduction. University of California Press, Berkeley, CA.

Sweedo, S. 2016. Hiking Yosemite National Park. A guide to 61 of the Park’s greatest hiking adventures. 4th edition. Falcon Guides, Guilford, CT.

Websites and Online Videos:

Aquatic Restoration, Yosemite National Park:

https://www.nps.gov/yose/learn/nature/aquaticrestoration.htm

Sierran Treefrog:

http://www.californiaherps.com/frogs/pages/p.sierra.html

Sierra Nevada Yellow-Legged Frog

https://www.nps.gov/yose/learn/nature/snylfrog.htm

Fighting for the Frogs/Researchers hope to keep amphibians from disappearing in the High Sierra.  Carl T. Hall. 2000. (Interesting article about Clark’s nutcracker predation on the tadpoles of yellow-legged frogs.

https://www.sfgate.com/green/article/Fighting-for-the-Frogs-Researchers-hope-to-keep-3236361.php

The Frogs are Alright, UC Santa Barbara

http://www.news.ucsb.edu/2016/017220/frogs-are-all-right

Water Education Foundation:  Mono Lake. 

https://www.watereducation.org/aquapedia/mono-lake

Conservation