Totally Remote: Backpacking the Brooks Range, Alaska

The Trip

Backpacking the pristine remoteness of the Brooks Range in the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge is truly a once-in-a-lifetime experience. We’ll be travelling through the Refuge in the last days of summer, with the tundra bathed in almost 24-hour daylight, as fall colors envelop the land. We hope to witness some the of the vast Porcupine caribou herd as they return from their ancestral calving grounds on the Arctic plain. This concentration of prey attracts predators in great abundance and with luck we could see bears, wolves, wolverine, and fox as well as sheep, moose, and abundant migratory birds. 

Deep in the heart of the Brooks Range, through broad glacial valleys and narrow mountain passes, our route is far from well-known rafting rivers and presents a rare opportunity to explore a particularly untraveled section of the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge. A strategic food and fuel cache will lighten our packs somewhat, but the challenges of traveling over uneven terrain, negotiating numerous river crossings and finding suitable campsites each night will mean this will be a strenuous undertaking.

Moving quietly through this remote terrain, our small group will likely be the only people we see during our whole journey. We will be able to become a part of the landscape, with the near constant light allowing time for photography, birding, sketching, or simply enjoying the unspoiled natural surroundings as we go.

In addition to having the personal experience of a lifetime, by visiting the Arctic Refuge, participants will come to more fully appreciate this vast, remote, and inspirational place, and gain a deeper understanding of its unique status as the most significant wilderness area remaining in the United States. 

The two trip leaders have lead a combined 17 trips in the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge, but this trip has never been done by the Sierra Club and the final itinerary is still to be determined. At this moment only the in and out landing strips are fixed.

On day one we will fly north from Fairbanks in two groups. The first will travel with a scheduled regional airline to the Gwich'in settlement of Arctic Village and then onward on a spectacular flight in a three-passenger bush plane to a remote tundra strip, high in the Brooks Range. The other group will make the entire outward trip in the bush plane. These flights take up most of the day and are included in the trip price.

From where we land we will have a number of possible options for our adventure and may well only be decided on our final route once we have a better picture of our group strength and actual conditions on the ground.

The most likely scenario is that we will first complete a three-day circuit hike to explore the stunning landscape close to our starting point. This will allow us to return to a cache near the landing strip and avoid carrying a full 11 days of food and fuel. On the 5th to 11th days we will head first in a westerly direction before eventually swinging toward the south for the last couple of days to our final destination. Travelling through mostly unnamed valleys, we expect to cross over the Continental Divide on two separate occasions, but elevation gain will be relatively minimal.

While we will likely begin hiking about 9 a.m. every day and hope to stop at about 5 p.m. the uncertainties of backpacking through this trail-less terrain cannot be overstated -- so those who need to reach camp at a set each day will not enjoy this trip. 

On our final day, weather permitting, we will reverse our plane journeys. We will shuttle via bush plane over the Brooks Range to Arctic Village, and from there fly south for an anticipated late afternoon arrival in Fairbanks.

The location of suitable campsites cannot be planned for and variations in weather and glacial runoff make for highly changeable water levels and hiking conditions, which means that daily mileage can only be estimated. Injury, or other factors outside of our control, may necessitate that we modify our plans, so please bring a flexible attitude, a good sense of humor, and an adventurous spirit.

Getting There

We will meet you in Fairbanks, where group-gear and food will be divided. It’s recommended you arrive at least a day before the trip begins to allow time for delayed bags to turn up. Return flights from Fairbanks should be scheduled at least one full day after the trip end date, as weather conditions can easily delay the bush flight out of the Refuge. Please do not make non-refundable travel arrangements before confirming with the leaders.

Accommodations and Food

All meals, drinks, and snacks are provided for the duration of the trip, starting with lunch on the first day and ending with lunch on the final day. Special dietary considerations may be accommodated if leaders are notified in advance. The Sierra Club will furnish stoves, pots, cooking gear, and fuel. All meals will be prepared and eaten as a group, and everybody will be expected to take turns preparing meals and cleaning up.

Trip Difficulty

A trip like this is not usually recommended for inexperienced backpackers – though sometimes youth, strength, and willingness to take advice and guidance can outweigh experience – as few will have backpacked in anything quite like this terrain.

This trip will be an immersion into the ever-changing and unpredictable weather of the arctic. Hot, sweaty, sunny days are often followed by cold rain and snow. There are no trails except for those made by wildlife, and while gravel bars and firm tundra benches will be our preferred hiking surfaces, we will also be traveling across rocky riverbeds, boggy, unstable tussock fields, in shallow water, and over very slippery surfaces, on ice and even snow. Packs will be very heavy for the first few days and particularly after picking up our cache. Participants should be in good physical condition and have experience in, or relish the thought of, backpacking over rough terrain for extended periods and in adverse weather. 

Elevation will be moderate and we hope to hike about 6-10 miles per day, but daily mileage can vary considerably. Two hours of additional hiking to find a good campsite, after an already long, hard day cannot be ruled out. We will negotiate several river crossings, which can be quite challenging, but safety will be the top priority and if water levels are too high, we will alter our plans. However, participants should be prepared for the possibility of hiking with wet feet.

All participants must commit to pre-trip conditioning. You’ll need good stamina, strength, balance, and a high comfort level with uneven terrain. Participants over 70 years old may be particularly challenged by this trip. 

A well-matched group, in abilities and expectations, makes for the most rewarding experience for all, so your leader strongly encourages your contact prior to signup to discuss the trip rating and your personal suitability for it. 

Although this trip as rated ‘5’ -- the most strenuous we offer -- this is not a trip for those looking for a workout… Though you may well get one.

Equipment and Clothing

Participants should appreciate there will be no opportunity to get out of the weather except in their tents at the end of each day. Proper equipment selection is critical and all equipment should be thoroughly field-tested before departure. Participants should be prepared to be out and active in rain and other adverse weather. We especially urge you to bring only high-quality clothing and boots, high-quality lightweight (but not ultra-light) equipment, good binoculars, and as little of everything else as possible. Participants will need to supply their own tent, backpack, sleeping bag and pad, rain gear, and mess kit. In addition to their own gear, each participant is expected to carry approximately 18 pounds of group food and equipment, so please limit the weight of your personal gear accordingly.

To ensure everyone’s safety, and to ensure that you have everything you need (and nothing you don’t), all gear will be inspected prior to departure from Fairbanks. Confirmed participants will receive a detailed equipment list and your leaders are happy to discuss any gear questions you may have. 

The leaders will carry a first-aid kit and a satellite communication device for use in emergencies but, in an effort to avoid being surrounded by the pervasive technology of modern life, participants are asked to not bring phones/communication devices of any kind or any personal tech – except cameras.

The weather in the Refuge at this time of year is usually mild, with temperatures in the 50s and 60s, but can change quickly and be colder or warmer. Wind chill can be a major factor and you should anticipate and be prepared for strong sun, fog, drizzle, heavy rain, strong winds, and possibly snow. 

Water Purification:

Everyone must bring at least two one-quart water bottles or a dromedary. Our water supply will often be glacial till laden streams and 'potholes.' We will treat all water with chlorine-based disinfectant tablets except that used for cooking. Tablets will be provided. Filters can work, but are subject to clogs and are heavy. Some of the water will have significant silt and will clog most filters quickly if they are not field cleanable.

References

Maps:

• USGS quadrangles: 
• 1:250,000: ‘Arctic’

Books:

• Brower, Kenneth, Earth and the Great Weather. A rich resource on the Brooks Range. 
• Kantner, Seth, Ordinary Wolves. A novel about growing up in modern Inupiat culture.
• Kaye, Roger, The Last Great Wilderness. A history of the effort and political dealings to establish The Arctic National Wildlife Refuge. 
• Lopez, Barry, Arctic Dreams. A National Book Award-winning classic study of the Far North.
• Miller, Debbie S., Midnight Wilderness. A compilation of the author's journeys in the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge. 
• Pielou, E. C., A Naturalist's Guide to the Arctic. A readable natural history/science book. It won the Western Book Award for Creative Nonfiction.
• Wallis, Velma, Two Old Women. A story of Survival in the Alaskan wilderness, based on an Athabascan Indian legend of the Upper Yukon River Valley.
• Watkins, T. H., Vanishing Arctic. A comprehensive study of the Refuge and its future.

Conservation

The Arctic National Wildlife Refuge, at over 19 million acres, is the country’s largest wildlife refuge and one of the most pristine landscapes in North America.

The area was first protected in the 1960s and later grew in size. However, like so many places, the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge is threatened by pressure to drill for oil, and this pressure has intensified in recent years. A changing climate is also contributing to changes in this area. Polar bears are forced off the dwindling sea ice and move inland, altering the predator/prey ecosystem. Discussions about migration patterns, flora, fauna, the ancient history of this land, and the potential changes that this refuge, as well as our entire natural heritage, faces in the future will be a running thread throughout our journey.

A central aim of this trip is to introduce the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge and surrounding regions to future stewards of this land and encourage you to help protect it for generations to come.

Sierra Club National Outings is an equal-opportunity provider and when applicable will operate under permits obtained from U.S. federal land agencies.