Wings Over Israel: Birding, Nature, and Culture

The Trip

Situated at the intersection of the three continents of Europe, Asia, and Africa, the land of Israel has attracted people since before Biblical times. Israel presents a rich biodiversity of fauna and flora and is a wonderful country for birding, with a wide range of natural habitats, scenic landscapes, and, of course, endless human history, all in an area only as large as the state of New Jersey.

Twice a year an amazing 500 million birds from 550 species fly over Israel. Half of those species are migrants. Our trip puts us in the path of the spectacular fall migration as the birds from Europe and northwestern Asia head south to their wintering grounds in Africa. Migrating birds generally prefer to fly over land, which allows them to use thermals to save energy. Israel’s Mediterranean coast and Jordan River Valley have been described by some as “superhighways” for birds. Excellent birding is virtually guaranteed as we visit some of Israel’s most important birding areas: the Mediterranean coast, the Golan Heights, the Hula Valley, the Dead Sea, and the Negev desert.

We explore Israel’s rich natural and human history by visiting Masada, a UNESCO World Heritage site by the Dead Sea, and spending a day in Jerusalem, where we learn about places that are sacred to all three Abrahamic religions.

We stay in very comfortable hotels, including several nights in kibbutz inns with beautiful outdoor areas for relaxation and birdwatching.

Our outfitter for this trip is the Israel Ornithological Center (IOC), a division of the Society for the Protection of Nature in Israel (SPNI). SPNI is Israel’s largest environmental non-profit organization and the IOC is the BirdLife International partner in Israel. IOC/SPNI will use the proceeds from our trip to support bird conservation in Israel.

Day 1: We meet in the morning at a designated hotel lobby in Tel Aviv. After an orientation meeting, we drive to some sites along the Mediterranean coast. The area is dotted with large fishpond complexes that attract thousands of water birds, birds of prey, and more. We will focus on the area of Kibbutz Ma'agan Michael, birding at their vast fishponds. We will also take a birding stroll on the nearby beautiful Mediterranean beach. Later in the afternoon we head north to the Hula Nature Reserve. We finish the day exploring the boardwalks and extensive papyrus reed beds. Many birds of prey roost in the reserve and we have a very good chance of encountering mammals such as golden jackal, wild boar, and even jungle cat! We spend the night in comfortable cottages in a nearby kibbutz.

Day 2: An early start before breakfast is required for the magical "mobile hide" tour at the Hula Agamon Park. This park is a magical refuge for tens of thousands of common cranes that winter here and dominate the landscape. These magical birds are what make the Hula what it is, and the sights, sounds, and mobile hide experience are unforgettable. Following breakfast we return to the Agamon Park. The park is the result of a fascinating story that begins with the drying of the historic Hula Lake and the problems that arose, which led to the reflooding of certain parts of the valley. It is a fascinating story and we will spend the whole day exploring the vast fields, fish ponds, and canals, including the reconstructed stretch of the Jordan River. At this time of year the area is full of greater spotted and E. imperial eagles, several white-tailed eagles, merlin, peregrine, pallid and hen harriers, long-legged buzzards and our newest breeding raptor the elegant black-winged kite. Overnight in the kibbutz.

Day 3: Following breakfast we will head up to the Golan Heights and Mount Hermon. This mountain is the highest point in Israel (over 6,500 feet) and hosts many species that are found nowhere else. The area is fascinating both in terms of nature and, of course, geopolitical history. After exploring the mountain we descend and visit the Druze villages in the Golan. The Druze are a proud, fascinating people and we spend some time exploring their villages and have a Druze lunch. In the afternoon we visit a few more sites in the Golan Heights, including the "valley of tears," which was the stage of the 1973 war between Israel and Syria and today overlooks the Syrian Golan. Overnight in the kibbutz.

Day 4: Today we leave the Hula Valley and head south along the shores of the Sea of Galilee toward the Bet Shean Valley. This low-lying area is the last lush area for southbound migrant birds before the arid areas to the south. The reservoirs and fields here host thousands of wintering and migrant species as well as some local specialties such as Dead Sea sparrow, black francolin, and more. In the afternoon we head south along the Jordan Valley and climb up to a boutique hotel where we will spend the night overlooking the Old City of Jerusalem.

Day 5: We start the day with a visit to the Jerusalem Bird Observatory. This bird observatory is one of Israel's most important urban birding centers and is the only banding station in the world that sits on a nation’s parliament grounds! After the observatory, we meet a professional tour guide and spend the rest of the day exploring some of the major sites of Jerusalem. Overnight at the same hotel in Jerusalem.

Day 6: This morning we start with a deep breath and descend well below sea level to the Dead Sea. We spend the entire day around the marvelous Judean Desert and visit sites such as the famous Ein Gedi Reserve and the desert fortress of Masada, and we even take a dip in the Dead Sea, a must-try experience. Following a long day, we head south to the Negev where we will spend the night at a kibbutz guesthouse in the desert.

Day 7: Today we head out to the fantastic Nizzana wilderness. We will search for the enigmatic Macqueen's bustard, several species of sandgrouse and the handsome desert race of little owl. The area is quite wild and also hosts mammals such as dorcas gazelle, Asian wild ass and even wolf and striped hyena (requiring serious luck). We spend most of the day in the Nizzana area and also visit the famous Nizzana Fortress, an impressive castle that dates back to Nabatean times. Overnight at the kibbutz guesthouse.

Day 8: This day in the Negev desert includes sightseeing, birding, and some hiking. We will visit the Avdat gorge, an amazing canyon with large springs that holds water year round. The area is home to impressive herds of ibex and hosts several pairs of griffon vultures. Following the hike we visit the community of Sde Boker and hear about David Ben Gurion, the first Prime Minister of Israel. Overnight at the kibbutz guesthouse.

Day 9: This morning we start our journey south to Eilat on the Red Sea. We drive through the fantastic Ramon Crater and visit a couple of interesting spots to learn about the amazing geology of this endemic machtesh (non-impact crater). We stop for some birding along the way and eventually arrive in Eilat in the afternoon. In the evening we visit the Eilat North Beach. Tonight’s lodging is a seaside resort in Eilat.

Day 10: Today is a day of birdwatching and scenery around Eilat. We head up to the Eilat Mountains where we visit the Eilat Birdwatching Park and the famous salt pans north of the city. The salt pans host impressive numbers of water birds, including a large flock of flamingos. In the afternoon, we visit some of the southern beaches, including the Dolphin Reef Beach in the Coral Beach Reserve, which is famous for its snorkeling. Overnight at the same Eilat hotel.

Day 11: Our final day in Eilat is focused on visiting desert sites around Eilat. We visit the famous Amram's pillars (a unique geological site in the Eilat Mountains) and reserves such as Ein Evrona, the Acacia Gazelle reserve, and Eilat’s North Beach. Tonight we enjoy our farewell dinner and stay at the same Eilat hotel.

Day 12: Following breakfast we say our goodbyes to our fellow travelers. Our trip is complete and we will take home fond memories. Participants are welcome to fly back to the Tel Aviv airport for a flight home, stay in Eilat, or spend a day in Petra, Jordan.

The trip leader will be happy to suggest itineraries for anyone who is interested in arriving in Israel before our trip or staying in Israel after our trip is finished. These itineraries are not sanctioned in any way by the Sierra Club.

Note: While every attempt will be made to follow the above itinerary, this trip is subject to change depending on a variety of factors such as weather and road and other conditions that could affect the safety and well-being of group members.

Getting There

You will arrive and leave from Ben Gurion airport (TLV), outside Tel Aviv. It is served by several U.S. and foreign airlines. You will need a passport that is valid until at least six months after your final day of travel. U.S. citizens do not need a visa to enter Israel. Please do not make non-refundable travel arrangements until notified to do so by the trip leader.

Accommodations and Food

We will stay in comfortable hotels and kibbutz lodges. Rooms are double occupancy, so if you’re a solo traveler you will be assigned a roommate of the same gender. If you would like a single room, please contact the leader for availability and cost. The food is fresh, plentiful, and wholesome. Vegetarians are easily accommodated. If you have special dietary needs, please contact the trip leader to see if they can be accommodated. 

Trip Difficulty

This is an active trip with early starts in the mornings to catch those “early” birds. Normally we will be walking slowly with frequent stops for sightings. We will travel on good roads in a private air-conditioned bus. November is usually a comfortable time for weather in Israel when the summer heat is gone and the winter cooler temperatures haven’t arrived.

Equipment and Clothing

We suggest bringing mostly lightweight outdoor clothes, a hat for sun protection, sunglasses, comfortable broken-in walking shoes or light hiking boots, and casual clothes for dinner time. 

Binoculars are essential. Scopes are optional. A camera is recommended. A daypack is needed for carrying your water bottle, snacks, bird book, and other essentials.

The trip leader will send a detailed packing list to each participant.

References

Books:

• Cottridge and Porter, Birds of Israel and the Middle East.
• Feller, Bruce, Walking the Bible.
• Hillel, Daniel, The Natural History of the Bible.
• Porter and Aspinall, Birds of the Middle East.
• Strutin, Michal, Discovering Natural Israel, from the Coral Reefs of Eilat to the Emerald Crown of Mt. Carmel.
• Lonely Planet, Israel and the Palestinian Territories.

Maps:

• Israel Adventure Travel Map, National Geographic, 2012

Websites:

• www.birds.org.il
• www.eilat-birds.org
• www.agamon-hula.co.il
• www.natureisrael.org
• www.goisrael.com

Conservation

The Sierra Club is an environmentally focused entity. We are concerned about conservation and sustainability of resources, both locally and globally. Our work is accomplished by volunteers and aided by a salaried staff, encouraging grassroots involvement. Our outings seek to empower participants toward understanding parallel environmental concerns at home and abroad.

Since Israel received its independence in 1948, it has struggled with conservation issues. Two of the major issues are limited water supply and high population density.

Limited water supply has been a very major and controversial issue for the country. The south of the country is desert, yet there are quite a few towns and villages in the south that need water for both residential use and agriculture. In the 1950s, Israel drained a lake (Hula) in the north to get more water to the south. Later it was determined to be an ecological disaster. An attempt was made to reverse that action and let the rains refill the lake. It has now become a major nature reserve with a small lake and wetlands, a major stop for migrating birds.

About 60 years ago, several dedicated individuals started the Society for Protection of Nature in Israel (SPNI), which has been a major force in attracting public attention to conservation. In reviewing their work one newspaper wrote  “…Thanks to their actions, Israel has been successful, despite a high population density and an obsession with development and construction, in preserving significant spaces for nature reserves, forests, and national parks.” Today Israel has 190 nature preserves and 66 national parks, covering an area of approximately 20% of Israel’s land mass. Yet the tension between development and the environment continues.

Evacuation and Travel Insurance

The Sierra Club provides evacuation insurance to all participants on international trips. Since this coverage does not include any trip cancellation or interruption insurance, we suggest you purchase another policy separately to provide coverage for your trip and other travel costs. This policy also does not cover pre-trip and post-trip travel. Please note the evacuation insurance provided does not cover claims resulting from any pre-existing condition that occurs within 60 days of the trip departure. If you have specific questions about this exclusion, please review the insurance brochure. For information on purchasing a separate policy, please see our travel insurance page.