Autumn's Glory: Hiking in the Famed Splendor of New Hampshire's White Mountains

The Trip

The White Mountains of New Hampshire are regarded the most rugged, most formidable, and most awe-inspiring section of the Appalachian Mountain Range. This remarkable area is characterized by tall mountains — often with bare rocky summits, deep glacial ravines, wide notches, diverse hardwood and evergreen forests (itself alone makes the Whites a world-renowned travel destination), boulder-filled cascading streams, and plentiful ponds, lakes, and waterfalls. The Whites have the largest alpine area in the East with 48 mountains over 4,000 feet. Generally, there is more overall elevation gain on many White Mountain trails than is found on many other well-known Western region mountain trails. It is also home to some of the best and most challenging hiking in the U.S. The section of the Appalachian Trail that runs through the Whites is considered one of the most demanding of the whole AT. The White Mountains also ensconce picturesque New England towns and villages that add to the overall charm of the area. We will be hiking during the height of New England’s famed fall colors, which will add even more to the experience. The landscape will hopefully be filled by the autumn color palette: vibrant reds, yellows, and oranges.

We will be centrally located in Crawford Notch near Bretton Woods and we will have our own space, the Shapleigh Bunkhouse, to call home. The bunkhouse is on the grounds of and part of the AMC Highland Center, making the area a nexus for nature enthusiasts from all around the world. Even more convenient, we will have breakfast each day at the Highland Center main lodge, and we will have several dinners there as well. From Shapleigh each day we will head out via our cars to the day’s trailhead. The various day hikes will range from moderate to hard. The trails should be doable at a steady pace and, since we will be day hiking, our packs will be light. However, we do plan some strenuous hiking, so coming to the trip prepared is a must. Although the mileages are sometimes relatively short, the elevation gain and loss make the hikes quite physically demanding.

We plan on incorporating one flex day into the trip that will afford participants several options, including just chilling out. On a few evenings we plan to go to a nearby village for dinner and explore and partake in some of the other aspects of this area.

Day 1: The day before we start hiking is for everyone to arrive at the Highland Center and to check in with the leaders, preferably from 2:00-4:30 p.m. After dinner at the Lodge, we will have a brief meeting and group introductions. The leaders will go over the trip, answer questions, do a site orientation, and do a gear check. They will also go through the following day’s plan in detail. We will aim to get to sleep somewhat early so that we’re well-rested for our first hike the next day.

Day 2: After breakfast we will head out to our first adventure of the trip. Today’s trail will be a moderate level path and be a short distance trail so we can all acclimate to the area. The Zealand Trailhead is just off US-302 and close to the Highland Center, and the 5.4-mile roundtrip hike will take us to AMC’s Zealand Hut and one of the most beautiful views in the Whites, passing Zealand Falls, River, and Pond. The area around Zealand Hut is a wonderful place to explore, which we’ll have time to do today. The history of this area, Zealand, and the logging industry is also educational and interesting from an environmental standpoint. As will be the case on all hike days, alternate trails and plans may be used for numerous reasons, such as access problems, poor weather, and trail safety issues—flexibility is key! We will eat dinner at the Highland Center this evening.

Day 3: With one easy hike on the books, today we will have a bit more demanding hike: Nineteen-Mile Brook Trail to Carter Notch Hut. This moderate level hike is 7.6 miles roundtrip with an elevation gain of about 2,000 feet. The trailhead is centrally located on NH-16. Carter Notch Hut is in a remote col between two 4,000-foot mountains. Here we’ll have great mountain scenery, see some glacial tarns, and explore an area of huge boulders called the Ramparts. After the hike and freshening up back at the Bunkhouse, we’ll go to the nearby village of Jackson for dinner (self-pay).

Day 4: After one easy and one moderate day of hiking, we are up for some new challenges today. Tuckerman Ravine and Mount Washington are two of the top destinations in the Whites. Mount Washington, the tallest mountain in the Northeast, has the most dramatic scenery found in New England, but is also noted for unpredictable weather. We will be doing a safer variation hike here to make it a bit less climbing and make a quick exit, if need be. First, we will go up the mountain on the historic Mount Washington Cog railway and take a tour of the Mount Washington Weather Observatory. Then, we’ll do an extended loop hike on the Alpine Garden Trail and either take the train back down or hike down on one of the milder trails. Note that the Cog train is the world’s oldest mountain climbing railway from 1869. This hike is very weather-dependent. Dinner will be at the Highland Center this evening.

Day 5: Today we will try one of the best day hikes in the U.S., Franconia Ridge. We’ll make a loop to Franconia Ridge Trail via Falling Waters, Greenleaf, and Old Bridle Path Trails. This is a challenging 9-mile loop with a hearty elevation gain of nearly 4,000 feet -- but the reward is some of the best scenery in the Northeast on one of the country’s most spectacular day hikes. The trail is found off I-93 in Franconia State Park. The weather needs to be good for this hike too, as there is a long stretch of exposed ridgeline hiking. This trail is often cited as one of the top ten day hikes in the U.S., and you will get to see why. The Franconia Ridge Hike has been referred to as a mini Presidential Traverse, which in the hiker world is high praise.

Day 6: Today is our flex day. The AMC Lodge has a lot of educational and skill programs and their own guided hikes that you may want to check out, or we could also do a short fun group hike or two if there is interest. You may also want to just get a book, kick back by a window, take in the view, and just relax. This evening we may eat out or eat in depending on the desires of the group. This day may be moved as needed.

Day 7: Today, to wind down some, we’ll finish our hikes with a moderate level trail: The Lonesome Lake Hut via the Cascade Brook Trail and Lonesome Lake Trail. We’ll access the westernmost hut on the Appalachian Trail with great views of Franconia Ridge (the location of our hike on Day 5) on this 4-mile hike with 2,760 feet of gain. Along the way, we’ll see Kinsman Falls and have the option for a side hike up to Kinsman Pond. To celebrate and recover from our adventures, we will go out for the final dinner of our trip at a local restaurant and recount the fun and interesting times we’ve had together over the past several days. The cost of this dinner is included in the trip price.

Day 8: After breakfast we will say goodbye to our new trail friends. The area has a lot of great places to explore and experience, so please think about visiting some other interesting places on your way out.

The itinerary may be adjusted by the leaders to provide for the safest and most enjoyable experience relative to all the factors that are present at the time of the trip.

Getting There

If you are flying in, Manchester Regional Airport (Manchester, NH) may be your best option at about 2 hours and 115 miles from the Highland Center. From Manchester you can get a rental car and drive up to the AMC Highland Center. Local road directions to the Lodge are easily found online. Boston Logan airport is a longer drive, but will have more availability for flights and car rentals. Logan is about 2.5 hours and 165 miles from the Highland Center.

Please do not make non-refundable travel arrangements until notified to do so by the trip leader.

Accommodations and Food

Food selection will be at your own taste and liking. We will be having most meals at the AMC Highland Center lodge where the food is served buffet-style; lunch, when needed, will be provided after breakfast so it can be packed for the day’s hike. We plan to eat out at least twice in local restaurants in surrounding village/towns (self-pay) before the trip and after. Restaurants nearby are numerous but because of the high season, we will make reservations well in advance. The Shapleigh Bunkhouse originates from the late 1800s, and is set up hostel-style, but we will be the only group occupying the bunkhouse at the time of our visit. This provides us a fun, rustic adventurer, group-centric environment. Shapleigh is also set in a convenient location with beautiful surroundings. The bunkhouse shares facilities, like meals, with the AMC Highland Center lodge, so it will be a nice balance of independence and support for us.

Trip Difficulty

Hiking in the White Mountains is always challenging, but worth the effort. The trails are steep with rocks, tree roots, and mud on practically every trail. If you are only familiar with hiking on graded trails, like what is found in the West and Southeast, this trip will be quite an adjustment. You will need to be in very good shape and should be able to comfortably hike at least 7 miles with 2,000 feet of elevation gain in a day. Although the trip has a mix of shorter and longer hikes, some easier and some more strenuous, it is important to note that the most difficult hike of the trip, the Franconia Ridge loop, is nearly 9 miles long with nearly 4,000 feet of elevation gain, and typically takes 8-10 hours to complete.

Safety is paramount and we need to be prepared for rain, high winds, and cold weather, or even sleet and snow. These are serious mountains—hikers often head up the mountain on a beautiful day and find themselves above tree line and unprepared for the severe weather, dangerously high winds, and violent storms that can occur. The fastest windspeed ever recorded on the surface of Earth was on Mt Washington, at 231 mph! Needless to say, we will be prepared for a fun, safe trip, and will carefully monitor the “summits” weather report and adjust plans accordingly.

Chilly temps, clouds, strong winds, dense fog, and rapid changes in conditions (especially on the mountains) characterize the weather in the White Mountains at this time of year. Daily activities may be adjusted for the weather and the group’s safety and well-being. Snow may already be on the ground in September and likely will be a minor factor on the trip. We cannot control the weather, but we can be prepared for it. In the Whites, early October temperatures in the valleys range from highs in the mid-50s to mid-60s to lows in the mid-30s to mid-40s. A good general rule for fall weather in this area is to be able to dress appropriately for the cold and ready for the strong winds, rain, or snow. On the mountains, especially, the wind chill factor can be quite significant. For preparation planning as a general guide: a typical decline of about 3 degrees is found for every 1,000-foot ascent. The summit weather conditions can be unpredictable and a bit erratic.

Equipment and Clothing

You should have broken-in hiking boots or sturdy hiking shoes, non-cotton hiking clothes, and a good daypack big enough and comfortable enough for all-day hikes in changing conditions. Hiking poles to help on the rocky trails are strongly suggested, as are a camera (pictures!) and some casual clothes for our nights out. A thermos for hot drinks would also be a nice thing to have.

We will need to layer clothing and be ready for the elements, so rain gear, clothes for freezing temperatures, micro-spikes, and such need to be at least brought to the trip, if not carried every day. Keep in mind that stopping for breaks on summits can cause you to get cold quickly, so extra items to be prepared for the chill on the mountaintops and erratic weather are a must! Warm gloves and a hat are must-have items. A full list of gear and equipment will be provided to participants.

References

Maps:

• White Mountain National Forest West, National Geographic Trails Illustrated #740 (Franconia Notch, Lincoln)
• White Mountain National Forest East, National Geographic Trails Illustrated #741 (Presidential Range, Gorham)

Books:

• Buchsbaum, R.N., AMC’s Best Day Hikes in the White Mountains.

Conservation

This area has been a domestic and international travel destination for quite some time by U.S. standards. The White Mountain area has seen several purposes since early European settlement. The idea of sustainable, multipurpose land use through the implementation of nature-based solutions is a topic that is very relevant and current to the area: With millions of people visiting the area annually, how can its character be maintained, nature supported, and still allow existing communities to prosper? Or, for example, how can we make the area accessible for people with all mobility levels and from every socioeconomic group? How can the area that serves the large resorts, golf courses, and ski resorts, equitably and sustainably serve a growing local population? Can these demands be balanced? The loser in the land-use equation is ultimately, in almost all cases, nature. It is also rare that an area, once developed, goes back at some point to a non-developed state. There are a few exceptions, and there are areas that are repurposed — redeveloped for impacts that are not so damaging to nature. Even with the stated exceptions, the area does not go back to a mature state of nature for a long time. We will discuss these issues and try to present some ideas that may at least slow down the loss of non-developed land. It's important to remember that even lands that may only have hiking trails and huts on them are still considered developed and that these too stress nature. There are European models of sustainable land use that have been implemented and seem workable with support. We will present some of these topics and have a participant-driven discussion of the pros and cons of “land management," how important an issue this is, and whether it’s too late for many areas to change or be protected.