Wind River Wonder and Awe Exploration and Solitude in Wyoming's Wonderland, Wyoming

The Trip

I think the best inspired painter that ever drew would fail in attempting to describe these mighty mountains.  He may convey correctly enough an impression of their shape, their vast extent and sublime beauty.  But there is something always left out which escapes all his colours and all his skill.  Their aspects shift and vary continually.  Their very shapes seem to undergo a perpetual transformation like the clouds above them.  There is a mystery like the mystery of the sea -- a silence not of death but of eternity.” James Chisholm

Wyoming's Wind River Range offers an unparalleled wilderness experiences with soaring granite peaks, sparkling blue lake, and rushing rivers. Join other adventuresome backpackers on a week-long on- and off-trail backpack trip through glacier-carved valleys with dozens of crystal-clear lakes and countless snowmelt cascades and streams. Alpine forests, rolling green meadows accented with vibrant wildflowers, and extraordinary mountain views appear around every corner. This epic adventure begins weaving in and out of the woodlands and meadows from the Boulder Creek trailhead, with promises of the spectacular mountains ahead.

The Winds extend for more than 100 miles, the crest forming part of the Continental Divide. Granite peaks -- 40 of them over 13,000 feet high -- dominate the landscape. Seven of the 10 largest glaciers in the Lower 48 are in the range. More than 2,900 lakes and ponds (over 1,300 named lakes) are sprinkled across the land. The Winds are primarily granite, which have been carved into their present shape by glaciers -- glaciers that left behind U-shaped valleys, serrated peaks and ridges, and alpine cirques.  The areas below the peaks are filled with wonderful flowing streams and refreshing frigid lakes.  (Note: Some of the photos are from the area we’ll be in, and some are representative of the Winds.)

When below tree line, we will be in forests of pine, fir, and spruce. Fellow creatures of the woods include bear -- both black and grizzly -- elk, moose, deer, and the returning wolf. Watchful eyes can also spy soaring birds. Spending a week backpacking through and becoming a part of this primitive wilderness will revitalize and rejuvenate as only fresh air, starry nights, and long walks can.

This trip seeks the route less traveled by backpacking into the central portion of this alpine wonderland and experiencing its charms in relative solitude. True solitude in the wilderness is best found off-trail, so this trip features cross-country segments west of the Continental Divide.  While the Bridger and Fitzpatrick wilderness areas cover much of the Winds, we will be in the Bridger Wilderness for our adventure.

Some exertion and stamina will be required to successfully complete this trip. Participants who are willing to share an exploratory spirit, a positive outlook to (possible) unforeseen challenges, and a willingness to foster group cohesiveness will reap the greatest rewards from this experience.

In the early to mid-1800s, mountain men such as Jim Bridger, Kit Carson, Tom “Broken Hand” Fitzpatrick, and others trapped beaver and other fur-bearing animals for trade; many of the famous Green River mountain men rendezvouses were held nearby.  While Europeans explored the Winds, they were not the first to roam this area.  We respectfully acknowledge that we are on the traditional territory of the Shoshone and Arapaho peoples, who have inhabited these lands for over 9000 years. We offer our gratitude to the First Nations for their care for, and teachings about, our earth and our relations. May we honor those teachings.

An early outfitter in the 1930s, Finis Mitchell, was instrumental in stocking many of the lakes in the Winds with fish.  He wrote, "My Pledge to future generations:  While here on earth, I shall endeavor with all my ability and steadfast efforts to preserve and add to our wilderness so all who follow in my footsteps might have the same opportunity to use and enjoy it as I have. Remember, the way of wilderness is love and kindness toward all forms of life.” 

We will be in true wilderness, one of the areas protected in the original 1964 Wilderness Act.  It is our plan and hope that all of you, who choose to join us on this trip, will enjoy the Wind River Range/Bridger Wilderness as much as we do.

Pre-trip: We will meet at a hotel in Pinedale at 5 p.m. on Friday for introductions, a trip briefing, and distribution of group gear and food. Anyone who wishes can join us for dinner afterward at a local restaurant (at your own cost).

Day 1: We will meet early morning in Pinedale to caravan to the Boulder Creek Trailhead, about 45 minutes away.  We will head to Dugway Lake for our first camp, hiking around 6.5 miles and 1600 ft gain.

Day 2:  Today we will follow the trail to Howard Lake for our second camp, hiking around 6.5 miles and 1600 ft gain.

Day 3-6:  Now we start off-trail for the next four days, including a layover day, where we’ll do an (optional) day hike to the top of a nearby peak.  During these days (five to seven miles, 1,500-1,900 ft gain/1,300-2,100 ft loss), we will combine more difficult cross-country travel with less difficult walking across alpine basins to explore cirques above the tree line. Our layover day gives us time to explore without our backpacks or to kick back and relax in camp.

Day 7-8:  We’re back on the trail for these two days, camping by lakes.  We ended up back where we started at the Boulder Creek Trailhead. 

Including the layover day, we will hike about 48 miles and gain/lose 11,000 ft.

Getting There

The nearest airport is Jackson, Wyoming, about 85 miles (2-hour drive) from Pinedale. Salt Lake City, Utah -- with more flights at a lower cost -- is about 250 miles (i.e., a 4- to 5-hour drive). In either case a rental car is necessary. Ridesharing is strongly encouraged, and a roster of trip members will be sent to approved participants.Please do not make non-refundable travel arrangements until notified to do so by the trip leader. Because of uncertainties that can occasionally occur (e.g., accidents, weather, etc.) on the last day of the trip, which can cause a longer-than-normal hiking day, you should not schedule your return flights to depart until the day following the last day of the trip. Note that the leaders will arrive two days early to Pinedale (about 7,200 feet) to help start the acclimatization to altitude.

We will have an optional meeting at 5:00 p.m. on Friday, the day before the official start of the trip to have an orientation, review packing suggestions, and eat dinner (buy your own) at a local restaurant.  If you will not be at this optional meeting, please text or email the leaders to let them know when you will arrive in Pinedale.

Please do not make non-refundable travel arrangements until notified to do so by the trip leader.

Accommodations and Food

All meals are included from lunch on day one through lunch on the last day. Trail snacks and hot drinks (hot water available at breakfast and dinner) are not included; we’ve found that both of these (preferences and amounts) are distinctly individualistic, so we leave it up to the participants to provide their own. Participants are responsible for lodging and meals before and after the trip.

The menu consists of low-bulk, lightweight foods that are simple to prepare and use a minimum of commissary gear. Generally, we will have hot or cold cereal for breakfast, dinners will usually be one-pot meals with soup to start and a light dessert to finish. Vegetarians can be accommodated, but more restrictive diets may be difficult to accommodate on this trip. Contact the leader before signing up to determine if we can accommodate your specific needs without impacting the group. We provide tablets for participants to treat water. Bear canisters will be used, and all personal snacks and some toiletries (e.g., toothpaste) can fill no more than one-quart Ziplock bag.

Accommodation and meals in Pinedale are not included in the trip.

Trip Difficulty

Following Leave No Trace ethics, we will do our part in continuing to maintain the Wind River area pristine and as wild as possible. Our route is approximately a 44-mile loop and is rated as “4.5” with a mix of on-trail and off-trail travel. While we will start at about 8,000 feet, often we will be above 10,000 feet.

Cross-country hiking is more difficult than trail hiking, not only requiring strong aerobic conditions but also excellent balance and agility to carry a heavy pack at high altitudes and uneven terrain. You must be in excellent physical condition to enjoy this trip safely and not impact the group’s success. You will need to sustain a program of physical conditioning to carry a 40-to-45-pound pack (less is preferred) under these conditions, and the leader will provide suggestions for this. Proper preparation will enhance your wilderness experience. Shared group gear and food will weigh in the range of 12-14 lbs.

This is a group trip whose success relies upon the cheerful, active contribution and ‘good humor’ of all participants.  Traveling in a group invariably involves compromise to accommodate the diverse interests, travel goals, personalities, and physical abilities of all participants. Trip leaders may be required to improvise and exercise good faith, use discretion, and/or make decisions based on weather conditions, trail/route conditions, group fitness level, and group consensus. These decisions may not always please everyone, but they are intended to satisfy the desires of the group and comply with the intended goals, safety, and spirit of the trip.  By joining a group there are inherent compromises. If you feel you do not have such flexibility then solo travel may be the appropriate alternative.  Remember, on group trips, you give up some autonomy, independence, and authority.  You will assist with cooking, cleaning, sanitation, camp set up, and break down. We will be following a Leave No Trace ethic in all aspects of our journey.

August in the Winds can be quite pleasant with highs in the 70s and lows in the 30s but be prepared for extremes and the infamous pesky Wind River mosquitoes. In addition, afternoon thunderstorms, all-day rain, and even snow can occur anytime in the Winds, so good quality rain gear is a must. Hiking poles are strongly recommended for difficult stream crossings and rough, steep, boulder-strewn terrain.

Mountain conditions are always unpredictable, and the Wind River Range is no exception. Our itinerary is tentative and subject to change depending on trail conditions, weather, and the abilities of the group. To enjoy this adventure to the fullest, come with a flexible and positive attitude and a good sense of humor.

Equipment and Clothing

The leader will send detailed equipment recommendations to participants well in advance of the trip.

We will use bear canisters for food storage. You will be issued one loaded bear canister which when combined with your share of the other group items will bring your total share of group equipment to about 12-14 pounds at the start of the trip.

You must limit your gear to more than 25 pounds with 20 pounds being ideal. Your backpack should have a capacity of at least 4,000 cubic inches (65 liters) to accommodate commissary and personal gear.

Cross-country travel requires sturdy, durable, well-fitting backpacking boots that fit over your ankle. Leather boots are better able to withstand prolonged abrasion from sharp granite, loose talus, and soaking from streams, mud, and snow.

References

Maps:

• Wind River Range South, Beartooth Publishing

• Wind River Range North, Beartooth Publishing

Books:

• Kelsey, Joe, Climbing and Hiking Wind River Mountains. Falcon Publishing.

• Pallister, Nancy, Beyond Trails in the Wind River Mountains. Gray Dog Press.

Conservation

The Bridger Wilderness area is permanently protected by Congress, but most of Wyoming's roadless areas have no such legal protection, and logging, drilling, and off-road vehicles continue to threaten them.

We will discuss what wilderness protection means, the reasons for protecting more land as wilderness, and the Wilderness Act itself. We'll also discuss the national park system, the pronghorn migration (largest in the lower 48 states), sustainability, the role extractive industries (coal, oil, gas) play in Wyoming's economy, and other issues.

We also invite participants to contribute on topics of their passion. This is optional, but on many trips, we have had some wonderful discussions about subjects that individual participants are passionate about.