High, Wild and Remote: Backpacking the Wind River Range, Wyoming

The Trip

Sharp granite peaks soaring into the sky; vibrant wildflower gardens seemingly around every turn; cold, deep lakes loaded with trout -- no wonder Wyoming's Wind River Range is a favorite of backcountry enthusiasts.

Starting and ending at New Fork Lakes, this seven-day backpacking adventure loops through the high plateaus and lake basins of the northern Bridger Wilderness. Our goal is an extended journey in the alpine wonderland lying west of the Continental Divide, on an adventurous 36-mile route that hops from one stunning lake basin to the next. Along the way, we'll visit the full range of Wind River life zones -- thick lodgepole forests, expansive meadows, and jagged granite well above treeline. Most of the lakes and streams harbor a variety of trout certain to please even the most avid angler, while remote crags and cirques will entice the eager off-trail explorer.

Our trip will visit the ancestral lands of several native tribes, primarily the Shoshone-Bannock and Eastern Shoshone, but also the Cheyenne, and Crow. We will invoke the Sierra Club axiom of traveling “high and light” by scrutinizing the group equipment and simplifying the menu. We will also be practicing Leave No Trace principles.

Please note that the following itinerary is our plan, not a promise. Weather, trail conditions, progress of the group, campsite availability, and other factors may require adjustments.

Day 1: Plan to meet in Pinedale, Wyoming in the afternoon for introductions, a safety talk, and a pack inspection. Afterward, anyone who wishes can join us for dinner at a local restaurant.

Day 2: We will leave in the early morning from Pinedale and caravan to the New Fork Lakes trailhead where our route begins and ends. We will hoist on our packs and hike past New Fork Lakes, through meadows and along the river through the narrow confines of New Fork Canyon until we arrive at our pleasant camp at 8,805 feet near the river. Distance: 6.5 miles. Elevation gain: 800 feet. Elevation loss: 0 feet. 

Day 3: On our second hiking day, we will travel on good trails, climbing up through forest and open slopes to reach the high alpine and our camp in the delightful Lozier Lakes basin at 10,700 feet. Distance: 5.2 miles. Elevation gain: 1,984 feet. Elevation loss: 89 feet.

Day 4: We will take our time today to enjoy the incredible views of the Continental Divide’s jagged peaks before descending past charming Clark Lake to our camp on a lovely forested bench in Trail Creek Park at 9,300 feet. Distance: 4.1 miles. Elevation gain: 447 feet. Elevation loss: 1,847 feet.

Day 5: This morning will see us steadily climb to a mountain pass, then gently descend to our home for the next two nights at beautiful Borum Lake (elevation 10,155 feet). Distance: 5.0 miles. Elevation gain: 1,064 feet. Elevation loss: 209 feet.

Day 6: On this layover day, one may choose to relax in camp and perhaps get in a swim. Alternatively, one or more day hikes will be proposed to explore nearby ridges for even more tremendous views.

Day 7: Our high alpine journey will take us up and into another glaciated basin, and to Rainbow Lake (elevation 10,190 feet) for our final evening in the wilderness. Distance: 7.3 miles. Elevation gain: 1,316 feet. Elevation loss: 1,281 feet.

Day 8: Saying farewell to the Winds, we will descend a switchbacking trail through a forest recovering from an older fire to reach our starting trailhead at New Forks Lake. We should arrive in mid-afternoon to caravan back to Pinedale. Distance: 6.3 miles. Elevation gain: 45 feet. Elevation loss: 2,356 feet.

Getting There

Pinedale is about a 1.5-hour drive (80 miles) southeast of the Jackson, WY airport and about a 4-hour drive (245 miles) from Salt Lake City International Airport. Salt Lake City is generally a much more reliable and cheaper option. If using the Jackson Hole Airport, we recommend arriving the day before the trip starts to provide a contingency for canceled flights and delayed baggage.

The leaders will provide a trip roster with contact information to facilitate ride-sharing and other logistical details in advance of the trip. The Great Outdoor Transportation Company (GOTCO) provides pre-arranged shuttle service from the Salt Lake City and Jackson airports to Pinedale as well as from Pinedale to various Wind River trailheads. The best economy will be achieved by teaming up with other participants, but these shuttles are not included in the trip price and can’t be arranged by the leaders. 

Please do not make non-refundable travel arrangements until notified to do so by the trip leaders and do not make return flight reservations on the day the trip ends.

Accommodations and Food

All meals are provided and included in the trip price, beginning with lunch on day two (first hiking day) to lunch on day eight (last hiking day).

With the goal of storing all food in bear canisters, we will strive to reduce bulk, as well as weight, wherever possible. Therefore, the backcountry menu will consist of low-bulk, non-refrigerated, lightweight foods that have a high calorie-to-bulk ratio.

The menu can accommodate vegetarians and provide gluten-free options, but accommodating more restricted diets can be difficult. We will discuss any other food allergies or critical food restrictions during the acceptance interview to determine if we can accommodate your specific needs.

Generally, breakfasts will be hot or cold cereal, lunches will consist of a protein on a wrap or with crackers, and some other treats, and dinners will usually consist of soup, a one-pot entrée, and a small dessert. 

Participants are responsible for providing their own drinks and trail snacks limited to a one-quart zip-closure bag.  We will provide plenty of hot water for your drinks and for cleanup at breakfast and dinner.

A gravity water filter may be available in camp. However, participants are responsible for bringing their own water treatment for all of their personal use, whether chemical, filter, or UV-based. Additional information will be provided in pre-trip correspondence.

The leaders generally prepare the meals with the assistance of participants, including fetching water and pot washing.

Trip Difficulty

We will carry our packs a total of about 36 miles and most of the trip lies above 10,000 feet.

Equipment and Clothing

The Sierra Club will provide all commissary equipment, including stoves, fuel, and bear-resistant food storage containers. At the start of our trip, everyone will receive a full bear canister and a portion of group gear with a combined weight of 12 to 15 pounds. Your total pack weight may be 40 pounds.

The leaders will provide an extensive gear list to approved participants well in advance of our outing. The list will include items that are essential such as a backpack, tent, sleeping bag, and those that are optional. You must keep the total weight for your gear below 25 pounds, with 20 pounds being ideal. We recommend you have at least a 60L backpack to accommodate your gear and the shared group commissary. 

August in the Winds is often quite pleasant with highs in the 70s and lows in the 30s, but be prepared for extremes. Every year is different and we should be well beyond the peak, but be prepared for the infamous Wind River mosquitoes. In addition, afternoon thunderstorms, all-day rain, or even snow can occur anytime in the Winds so good quality rain gear is necessary. Hiking pole(s) are recommended for stream crossings and rocky or steep trails.

References

Maps:

• Earthwalk Press: Hiking Map and Guide: Northern Wind River Range, WY.
• Wind River Range North: Beartooth Publishing
• USGS 7.5 minute topographical Maps: New Fork Lakes; Squaretop Mountain; and Gannett Peak available at www.store.usgs.gov

Books:

• Ron Adkison, Hiking Wyoming’s Wind River Range. Falcon Publishing.
• Joe Hutto, The Light in High Places. Skyhorse Publishing.
• Joe Kelsey, Climbing and Hiking Wind River Mountains. Falcon Publishing.
• Nancy Pallister, Beyond Trails in the Wind River Mountains. Gray Dog Press.

Websites:

• Sierra Club Our Wild America: http://content.sierraclub.org/ourwildamerica/
• Wind River Range information: http://www.summitpost.org/wind-river-range/171223/

Conservation

America’s wild places are under ever-increasing threats, and the Wind River Range is no exception. Threats include removal of preservation status, expansion of resource extraction such as logging and gas drilling, and efforts to remove protections on the reintroduction of native species such as wolves. Of concern is the decision of the Wyoming Game and Fish Department to authorize trophy hunting of grizzly bears in addition to the gray wolf hunt. We will discuss the latest developments and the impact of this attack on natural diversity and actions that you can take.

We will discuss what wilderness protection means, the reasons for protecting more land as wilderness, and how we can do so. The area west of the Continental Divide has been grazed for years, and we will consider the effects of the Forest Service “multiple use” policy. The areas we visit are quite remote, yet we will still see plenty of evidence of earlier use. This is a magnificent setting for us to reflect on the question of how much wilderness is enough and why it is important.