Backpack in the Bodacious Beartooths, Montana

The Trip

Encompassing the largest expanse of alpine tundra in the lower 48 states, The Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness (A-BW) has jagged peaks, active glaciers, extensive treeless plateaus, deep canyons, sparkling streams, and countless alpine lakes. This nearly million acres of wildlands has been called “…a crown jewel of both the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem and the National Wilderness Preservation System.” Our on-trail backpacking will cover about 45 miles in this striking and dramatic area, with two layover days to enjoy peak bagging (off-trail) or relaxing in camp by a lake.

Established in 1978, the A-BW in the Gallatin, Custer, and Shoshone National Forests includes the volcanic Absaroka range (pronounced ab-ZORE-kuh) and the granitic Beartooth range. We will be hiking in the Beartooth Range, alpine with vast treeless plateaus, which fall off sharply into deep canyons, and 30 peaks over 12,000 feet. Many small lakes are tucked into high cirques.

Note that the A-BW Foundation writes that Absaroka “…comes from the word Apsáalooke, meaning ‘People of the Large-Beaked Bird,’ the proper name for a local Indigenous [Crow] community… The second part comes from the Apsáalooke word “Na Piet Say,” which translates to “Bear’s Tooth,” the name for a prominent mountain spire.” We respectfully acknowledge that we are on the traditional territory of the Crow, Bannock, Blackfeet, Cheyenne, and Shoshone, who have inhabited these lands for over 9000 years. We offer our gratitude to the First Nations for their care for, and teachings about, our earth and our relations. May we honor those teachings.

This exploratory backpack trip requires some exertion and stamina to complete it. Participants who are willing to share an exploratory spirit, a positive outlook to (possible) unforeseen challenges, and a willingness to foster group cohesiveness will reap the greatest rewards from this experience.

We will be in true wilderness. It is our plan and hope that all of you, who choose to join us on this trip, will enjoy the area and experience as much as we will.

Pre-trip: We will meet at a hotel in Red Lodge at 5 p.m. on Friday for introductions, a trip briefing, and distribution of group gear and food. Anyone who wishes can join us for dinner afterward at a local restaurant (at your own cost).

Day 1: We will meet early morning in Red Lodge to caravan to the Lake Fork Trailhead, about 25 minutes away. We will head to Lost Lake for our first camp, hiking around 6.7 miles and 1700 ft gain.

Day 2: Today we will follow the trail to Shadow Lake for our second camp and a layover day, hiking around 7.9 miles and 2700 ft gain with 1650 ft loss.

Day 3-7: For the next five days, including two layover days (with optional day hikes to the top of nearby peaks), we’ll backpack about 5.5 to 11 miles, with 450-2,100 ft gain/1,600-3,300 ft loss). The optional hikes without backpacks on the layover days will each be about 4.6 miles and 2,600 ft gain/loss. (Or you could kick back and relax in camp.)

Day 8: We’re back on-trail for this day. We end up back where we started at the Lake Fork Trailhead. 

Including the layover day, we will backpack about 45 miles on the trail and gain/lose about 10,000 ft.

Getting There

The nearest airport is Billings, MT about 60 miles (1.25-hour drive) from Red Lodge. Bozeman, MT -- with perhaps more flights at a lower cost --is about 150 miles/2.5 hrs. In either case, a rental car is necessary. Ridesharing is strongly encouraged, and a roster of trip members will be sent to approved participants so that carpooling can be arranged.

Please do not make non-refundable travel arrangements until notified to do so by the trip leader. Because of uncertainties that can occasionally occur (e.g., accidents, weather, etc.) on the last day of the trip, which can cause a longer-than-normal hiking day, you should not schedule your return flights to depart until the day following the last day of the trip. Note that the leaders will arrive two days early to Red Lodge (about 5,700 feet) to help start the acclimatization to altitude, purchase some supplies, pack bear canisters, etc.

We will have an optional meeting at 5:00 p.m. on Friday, the day before the official start of the trip to have an orientation, review packing suggestions, and eat dinner (buy your own) at a local restaurant. If you cannot or will not make the meeting due to unforeseen circumstances, please text or email the leaders to let us know when you will arrive.

Please do not make non-refundable travel arrangements until notified to do so by the trip leader.

Accommodations and Food

All meals are included from lunch on day one through lunch on the last day. Trail snacks and hot drinks (hot water available at breakfast and dinner) are not included; we’ve found that both of these (preferences and amounts) are distinctly individualistic, so we leave it up to the participants to provide their own.

The menu consists of low-bulk, lightweight foods that are simple to prepare and use a minimum of commissary gear. Generally, we will have hot or cold cereal for breakfast, dinners will usually be one-pot meals with soup to start and a light dessert to finish. Vegetarians can be accommodated, but more restrictive diets may be difficult to accommodate on this trip; contact the leader before signing up to determine if we can accommodate your specific needs without impacting the group. We provide tablets for participants to treat water. Bear canisters will be used, and all personal snacks and some toiletries (e.g., toothpaste) can fill no more than one-quart Ziplock bag.

Accommodations and meals before and after the official beginning and end of the trip are not included.

Trip Difficulty

Following Leave No Trace ethics, we will do our part in continuing to maintain the Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness area pristine and as wild as possible. Our route is approximately a 45-mile on-trail backpacking loop and is rated as 4; optional off-trail travel on two layover days could add another 9 miles. While we will start at about 6,700 feet, our high point on the trail will be about 11,000 feet. Note that this trip is exploratory; the leader has not been on these trails, so the trip will be an adventure for everyone. Note, also, that there are grizzly bears reported in the Beartooths.

You will need to sustain a program of physical conditioning to carry a 40-to-45-pound pack (less is preferred) under these conditions, and the leader will provide suggestions for this. Proper preparation will enhance your wilderness experience. Shared group gear and food will weigh in the range of 12-14 lbs.

This is a group trip whose success relies upon the cheerful, active contribution and ‘good humor’ of all participants. Traveling in a group invariably involves compromise to accommodate the diverse interests, travel goals, personalities, and physical abilities of all participants. Trip leaders may be required to improvise and exercise good faith, use discretion, and/or make decisions based on weather conditions, trail/route conditions, group fitness level, and group consensus. These decisions may not always please everyone, but they are intended to satisfy the desires of the group and comply with the intended goals, safety, and spirit of the trip. By joining a group there are inherent compromises. If you feel you do not have such flexibility then solo travel may be the appropriate alternative. Remember, on group trips, you give up some autonomy, independence, and authority. You will assist with cooking, cleaning, sanitation, camp set up, and break down. We will be following a Leave No Trace ethic in all aspects of our journey.

September in the Beartooths can be quite “lovely” (as told to me by a ranger), but be prepared for extremes. Afternoon thunderstorms, all-day rain, and even snow can occur anytime in this area, so good quality rain gear is a must. Hiking poles are strongly recommended for stream crossings and rough, steep terrain.

Mountain conditions are always unpredictable, and the Absaroka-Beartooth area is no exception. Our itinerary is subject to change depending on trail conditions, weather, and the abilities of the group. To enjoy this adventure to the fullest, come with a flexible and positive attitude and a good sense of humor.

Equipment and Clothing

The leader will send detailed equipment recommendations to participants well in advance of the trip.

We will use bear canisters for food storage. You will be issued one loaded bear canister which when combined with your share of the other group items will bring your total share of group equipment to about 12-14 pounds at the start of the trip.

You must limit your gear to no more than 25 pounds with 20 pounds being ideal. Your backpack should have a capacity of at least 4,000 cubic inches (65 liters) to accommodate commissary and personal gear.

Backcountry travel requires sturdy, durable, well-fitting backpacking boots that fit over your ankle. Leather boots are best able to withstand prolonged abrasion from sharp granite, loose talus, and soaking from streams, mud, and snow.

References

Maps:

• Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness East Map [Cooke City, Red Lodge] (National Geographic Trails Illustrated Map, 722)

• Absaroka Beartooth Wilderness: Montana, Wyoming: Outdoor Recreation Map (Beartooth Mapping)

Books:

• Hiking the Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness (Regional Hiking Series), Bill Schneider

Conservation

The Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness area is permanently protected by Congress, but other Montana roadless areas have no such legal protection, and logging, drilling, and off-road vehicles continue to threaten them. Our adventure takes place in the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem, one of the last remaining large, nearly intact ecosystems in the northern temperate zone of the Earth. Partly located in Yellowstone National Park, this area is important to our culture and heritage. Important wildlands and biological corridors in adjacent areas do not have the same legal protection as Wilderness areas or Yellowstone National Park. We will consider the health of the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem and its relation to the Yellowstone-to-Yukon movement, an initiative by conservationists and other friends of the environment to piece together a wildlife corridor from Yellowstone National Park to the Yukon Territory. We will also talk about the importance of spacious habitats to large mammals and the connection of large mammals to other wildlife and flora. We will also discuss some local conservation issues.

Likewise, we will discuss what wilderness protection means, the reasons for protecting more land as wilderness, and the Wilderness Act itself. We'll also discuss the national park system, sustainability, etc.

We also invite participants to contribute to conservation and environmental discussions. This is optional, but on many trips, we have had some wonderful presentations and discussions about subjects that individual participants are passionate about.

Sierra Club National Outings is an equal opportunity provider and operates under permits obtained from Custer Gallatin National Forest.