Backpacking the Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne, Yosemite National Park, California

Please note that 22128B will run the following itinerary in reverse.

The Trip

John Muir wrote, “There is not a dull step all the way” to describe hiking through the entire length of the Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne River. During our five days of backpacking, we seek to experience what Muir felt. Marvel at towering rock formations and thunderous waterfalls. See the upper end of the Hetch Hetchy Valley that the Sierra Club and others fought fiercely to preserve but failed.

This is a point-to-point backpack, with different entry and exit trailheads, that requires car shuttles at the beginning and end of the trip. We will hike the classic 31-mile route from Tuolumne Meadows to White Wolf, opposite to the more frequently mentioned west-to-east direction. Following the Tuolumne River downstream will provide a gradual descent in the first half of the trip and a lighter pack at the end for our 2-stage ascent to White Wolf. Our moderate pace of 6-7 miles per day will give us ample time to cool off in the many refreshing waterholes along the route.

Our trip will be in the ancestral lands of the Tuolumne Band of Me-Wuk Indians, ceded under duress in the unratified Treaty of 1851.

Please note that 22128B will run the following itinerary in reverse. 

Day 1: We will meet at a campground in the afternoon before our five-day backpack. This is the time to have introductions, organize our gear, and finalize the car shuttle logistics for the next morning.

Day 2: The day starts with car shuttle logistics. We will need to park around half of our cars at the exit trailhead at White Wolf, then have all hikers and the remaining cars at Tuolumne Meadows to begin our hike. We start at 8,600 feet, and our first day’s hike is around 7 miles with a 900-foot descent. We will mostly be on the Pacific Crest Trail, passing Tuolumne Falls and White Cascade waterfall to Glen Aulin, where the Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne begins. We will make camp after 1 mile beyond the Glen Aulin High Sierra Camp.

Day 3: This day is a waterfalls extravaganza. Shortly after leaving camp, we will arrive at California Falls, Le Conte Falls, and then the heavyweight of the day: the 800-foot Waterwheel Falls. Today’s hike is about 6 miles with a net elevation loss of 2,300 feet.

Day 4: This is the midpoint of the backpack trip, and a shorter hiking day. We begin with a 400-foot climb to skirt the narrow Muir Gorge. Then we will have to decide how much time to spend in the lovely pool under a waterfall at Register Creek. After around 5 miles and a loss of 1,300 feet, we will start looking for a campsite before reaching Pate Valley.

Day 5: This day is a transition day. We will continue our trek downstream past the confluence with Piute Creek. The canyon trail in this section of Pate Valley is more level, losing about 400 feet in 4 miles, bringing us to the lowest point of our trip at around 4,300 feet. The trail then begins a steep climb to White Wolf. Fortunately, we will have passed the halfway point of the trip and our packs will be lighter. After climbing 1,500 feet in 2 miles, we will stop to make camp near Morrison Creek, and enjoy the view toward Hetch Hetchy and a beautiful sunset sky.

Day 6: The final push on exit day. We first climb about 2,150 feet in 2.5 miles, and then walk another 3.5 miles on gently rising trail to White Wolf. We may need to hike an extra mile and up another 250 feet to the main road if White Wolf Campground is closed. After collecting group gear, we will shuttle back those participants with cars parked at Tuolumne Meadows. Although we cannot be certain as to when we will complete the hike and reverse the car shuttle on this final day, we aim to exit the trail at White Wolf by 2:00 p.m.

Please note, the above itinerary is a general plan. It is subject to change due to unforeseen circumstances beyond our control. Weather, trail condition, river level, progress of the group, permit or campsite availability, and other factors may require the leaders to make adjustments. Sierra Club trips are not solo trips; we will look out for each other and at times may have to compromise our individual trip goals.

Getting There

Because of the car shuttle requirement, driving is the best way to get to the entry and exit trailheads. Drivers are responsible for paying the Park entry fee of $35 per car. We will provide a trip roster to facilitate ride-sharing.

If you have sufficient time and patience, you can try local transportation on the Yosemite Area Regional Transportation System (yarts.com). Its buses serve many regional cities, including airports at Fresno, Merced, and Mammoth Lakes. Only the eastern bus route serving Mammoth Lakes stops at Tuolumne Meadows. All other routes will require a connection in Yosemite Valley. Bus service is limited.

If you live far away, you may need to allow extra days to travel to and return home from the trailheads.

Please do not make non-refundable travel arrangements until notified to do so by the trip leader.

Accommodations and Food

We will provide a group campsite for all of us to meet and get organized in the afternoon of day one. In the river canyon, we will choose campsites that can accommodate our group while complying with Park regulations and Leave No Trace principles.

All meals while on the trail are included, beginning with lunch on the second day and concluding with lunch on the last day. Please bring your own dinner for the first day and breakfast for the second day, both at our car camp. Backpack meals will have a vegetarian option, and some food sensitivities may be accommodated. Please contact the leader to ask if any food allergies or dietary restrictions can be accommodated. Please do not bring additional personal food supplies and scented items for the trip that will not fit in a quart-sized zip-lock bag — the bear canisters can only hold so much. Trip participants will assist with meal preparation and cleanup.

Trip Difficulty

This trip is an intermediate level trip. It is rated a 3 on a scale of 1 to 5 (1 being the easiest and 5 being the most strenuous trips we offer). There are 2 days with steep climbs (1,500 and 2,400 feet). It is suitable for those who enjoy long weekend backpack trips and follow a regular and diverse exercise program.

We will be hiking on established trails all the way. Daily mileage averages 6 miles per day. Elevation changes significantly each day, dropping 2,300 feet on the second day and gaining 2,400 feet on the last day. We aim to start hiking each day around 8:30 a.m. and stop by 4:00 p.m., with frequent breaks.

Equipment and Clothing

Participants will bring their own personal gear, including pack, tent, sleeping bag, and pad. Clothing should provide protection from Sierra thunderstorms. Yosemite Park lists the average low temperature in June at Tuolumne Meadows to be 33ºF and average high at Hetch Hetchy to be 78ºF. We require participants to wear hiking boots with good ankle support and stiff midsoles. Although trail running shoes are popular with many ultralight backpackers, they will not be allowed on this trip in order to minimize the risk of personal injuries that would impact the group. Rattlesnakes are present in the canyon and a high-cut model can offer more protection. Having hiking poles can help on the steep downhills and with stream crossings, and don’t forget to bring the 10 essentials.

The Sierra Club will provide group-cooking equipment, a gravity water filter for use in camps, food, and bear-resistant food storage canisters. Bears frequent the canyon campsites, seeking human food. We will also have a large tarp for protection from the elements, a group first-aid kit, and a communication device for emergencies. Water sources in the canyon are unsafe for drinking without treatment. Participants must bring their own personal water treatment for use while hiking.

Some of the group equipment is relatively bulky, like pot sets and bear canisters. Your pack should be sufficiently large enough to carry a BV500 bear canister (11.5 liters) in addition to your personal gear. Expect group gear for each person to weigh 10-13 pounds.

The leader will send a detailed equipment list to registered participants.

References

• Tom Harrison Maps: Yosemite High Country
• Glen Aulin and Waterwheel Falls backpacking trails: https://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/tuolumne-meadows-backpacking-trails.htm
• Hetch Hetchy History and the Sierra Club: https://vault.sierraclub.org/ca/hetchhetchy/history.asp
• Tuolumne River Plan: https://www.nps.gov/yose/getinvolved/trp.htm
• Laws, J. M., The Laws Field Guide to the Sierra Nevada. California Academy of Sciences, 2007.
• Tuolumne Band of Me-Wuk Indians: https://mewuk.com/cultural/history/
• The Secret Treaties with California's Indians: https://www.archives.gov/files/publications/prologue/2013/fall-winter/treaties.pdf

Conservation

The Sierra Club is an environmentally focused organization. We are concerned about conservation and sustainability of resources. Our work is accomplished by volunteers and aided by a salaried staff, and we encourage and rely on grassroots involvement. Our Outings seek to empower participants toward greater understanding, advocacy, and participation in the goals of the Club.

We will spend our entire trip in a wilderness area that is protected as a result of conservation efforts. We will devote time during our trip to talk about Hetch Hetchy history, the Tuolumne River Plan, and the challenges of balancing public access, resource needs, and preservation. Participants are encouraged to bring up a conservation topic of interest to them, whether a local issue specific to their hometown or a broader issue.

Sierra Club National Outings is an equal-opportunity provider and when applicable will operate under permits obtained from U.S. federal land agencies.