Hut-to-Hut Traverse of the Presidential Range, New Hampshire

Check this out: A Summer at AMC's White Mountain Huts

The Trip

This is a moderately strenuous bucket list hiking trip for people who want to experience the spectacular high peaks and ridges of the White Mountains of New Hampshire. We will hike the Presidential Range—the highest and most beautiful mountains in the Northeast. We will spend our first night at the Appalachian Mountain Club (AMC) Highland Center and four nights enjoying the comfort, cuisine, views, and camaraderie of three AMC high mountain huts—Mizpah Spring, Lakes of the Clouds, and Madison Spring. While at Lakes of the Clouds hut, we will hike up to the summit of Mount Washington (the highest peak in the Northeast). Located in the homelands of the Abenaki native Americans, this mountain peak was known as Agiocochook, or ‘Home of the Great Spirit’, and was not submitted, out of religious deference to their sanctity Since first summited by European settlers in 1642, and known as Mt Washington since 1784, the area has been both exploited for commercial development and is now preserved and managed by the Mount Washington Commission, which includes members from  New Hampshire State Parks, US Forest Service, and the Appalachian Mountain Club, among others.

Some of the most thrilling and spectacular scenery and hiking in the Eastern U.S. is in the 800,000-acre White Mountain National Forest (better known as “the Whites”), one of America’s most popular public lands, registering more visitors annually than Yellowstone and Yosemite combined. The area features many natural wonders, including magnificent rock formations (the most famous being The Old Man in the Mountain, which collapsed in 2003 but is still New Hampshire’s state symbol), as well as Flume Gorge, waterfalls, swimming holes, vast forests, spectacular open vistas, high peaks and ridges, and fragile alpine vegetation. Among the high peaks are the highest mountains in the Northeast, the Presidential Range, which culminate in the bare, metamorphic schist rock summit of Mount Washington (6,288 feet and “Home of the World’s Worst Weather”). We will submit numerous peaks that may include Eisenhower, Adams, Jefferson, Monroe, and Madison. This range forms the longest stretch of the Appalachian Trail above the tree line.

For large portions of this New Hampshire hiking trip, we will be above tree line in the Alpine Zone where you will see the “krummholz” (gnarled and stunted trees that survive where there is a bit of shelter from the violent winds), and tiny flowers, some of which are extremely rare. The flora is most like that of the eastern Canadian Arctic and coastal barrens.

The White Mountain National Forest is a managed and multiple-use forest (including six designated Federal Wilderness Areas), that provides areas for recreation, wildlife habitat, and harvesting of the forest, a renewable resource. Moose, deer, fox, and black bear are abundant — as are more than 184 species of birds.

We will meet on Sunday at the AMC Highland Center to become familiar with the hiking trip and the White Mountains, get to know each other and enjoy dinner together. Monday we hike to the Mizpah Hut. Tuesday we cross the first section of the Presidential Range to Lakes of the Clouds Hut—high on the flank of Mount Washington. Wednesday we summit Mount Washington where we will tour the weather station, and then descend via the Alpine Garden Trail back down to Lakes of the Clouds Hut. Thursday we hike the ridgeline to Madison Spring Hut for our last night in the mountains. Friday, our final day, we first summit Mount Madison, and then hike down the Valley Way Trail to Appalachia Parking Lot and our cars.

Please note that the itinerary may change due to weather, trail conditions, or other considerations.

Day 1: We meet at the Highland Center at 11:00 A.M. for a meet and greet and light lunch. We will first check gear and discuss trip details, including equipment, clothing, Leave No Trace principles, trail etiquette, our itinerary, and safety issues. Time and weather permitting, we may then enjoy a warm-up hike to Mount Willard for spectacular views of Crawford Notch (estimate ~2.5 hrs round trip). At ~3:30 pm we will spot a few cars at the Appalachia Parking Lot where we will end our trip on Friday (your cooperation and flexibility are needed to accomplish this), and check into our accommodations at the Shapleigh bunkhouse. Dinner is at 6:00 p.m. at the Highland Center followed by a presentation on the White Mountain region at 7:30 p.m. We will turn in at the Shapleigh bunkhouse with lights out by 10 p.m.

Day 2: Following our 7:00 a.m. breakfast at the Highland Center, we "gear up" and hike 2.6 miles (1,900 feet elevation gain) on the relatively easy Crawford Path to Mizpah Spring Hut (3,800’) where we will enjoy our lunch. In the afternoon we take an optional 3.4-mile round trip hike on moderate terrain across the ridge to Mt. Jackson (4,052'), our first Presidential summit.

Day 3: From Mizpah Spring Hut we climb 800’ above the tree line and remain above the tree line until we descend on Friday. We traverse our first section of the Presidential Range mostly on the Appalachian Trail (AT) 4.8 miles to Lakes of the Clouds Hut (5,012').  Along the way, we summit Mt. Pierce (4,310'), Mt. Eisenhower (4,780'), Mt. Franklin (5,001'), and Mt. Monroe (5,372'). At the hut, we acknowledge our day's accomplishments, put up our feet, stretch out, and enjoy the views. After dinner keep an eye out for a great sunset in the west.

Day 4: We start our morning with our 1.5-mile ascent (1,300 feet elevation gain) to the summit of Mt. Washington (6,288’) where we tour the Mount Washington Weather Observatory, enjoy our lunch, and explore the summit facilities. There is a cafe at the summit so refreshments and snacks are available.

Mt. Washington is the highest peak east of the Mississippi River and north of the Carolinas and it has a long and varied history as the site of several hotels, a road, a railway, a weather observatory, and very unpredictable weather, among other things. Mount Washington is well worth the climb. The mountain is broad and massive with great ravines cut deeply into steep sides, leaving buttress ridges that reach up through the timberline. The timberline occurs at 4,500-5,000 feet, the lowest in the world this close to the Equator, as a result of exposure to the mountain’s fierce wind and weather. The summit cone is covered with fragments of rock and almost devoid of vegetation, rising steeply above the 5,000-foot upper plateau.

The Mount Washington Weather Observatory performs weather and climate research and conducts innovative science education programs. It is one of only a handful of permanently-staffed mountaintop stations in the world, and the only one of its kind in the Western Hemisphere. Mt. Washington’s location at the convergence of three major storm tracks, combined with its elevation and unique topography, creates extraordinary weather extremes unlike anywhere on Earth. Our tour will provide an opportunity to meet and interact with the scientists, learn how they create forecasts, see the instruments they use to capture Mt. Washington's legendary extremes, and more.

The return to our hut at Lake of the Clouds will follow a different route along the Alpine Garden Trail. We will look for the unique alpine plants that grow below the summit of Mt. Washington while we enjoy views of the Huntington Ravine and beyond.

Day 5: We leave Lakes of the Clouds Hut on the Crawford Path/AT and join and cross the Presidential Range on the Gulfside Trail/AT, traveling 7.3 miles along open ridges and rock fields to the Madison Spring hut (4,825'). This trail, the main route along the Northern Presidential ridge top, offers extensive views and the option to summit Mt. Clay, Mt. Jefferson, and Mt. Adams (elevation gains: 1,650 feet without summits, 3,200 feet with summits).

The name Gulfside was given by J. Rayner Edmands who, starting in 1892, located and constructed the greater part of the trail; sometimes following existing trails. Most of the trail is part of the Appalachian Trail, except for a very short segment at the south end. The Gulfside Trail forms the northwestern boundary of the Great Gulf Wilderness, though the path itself is not within the Wilderness.

Day 6: On this last day we will enjoy a hearty hot breakfast and summit Mt Monroe for (weather permitting) spectacular views. We will then hike down from Madison Hut 3.8 miles (3,550 feet elevation loss) via the Valley Way Trail to the Appalachia Parking Lot. From there we carpool back to our cars at the Highland Center where we will say our goodbyes and wish everyone a safe trip home. We should be at the Appalachia Parking Lot by 2:00 p.m. and back to our cars by 2:30 or 3:00 p.m.

Getting There

We meet at the Appalachian Mountain Club (AMC) Highland Center for our pre-trip meeting and dinner. Detailed driving instructions will be provided to participants. Highland Center is located about 2 hours and 40 minutes (165 miles) from Boston’s Logan Airport; 5 hours and 45 minutes (360 miles) from New York City’s major airports; and 1 hour and 50 minutes (120 miles) from Manchester Airport in New Hampshire. The best way to get there is to drive. Note: we do need participant cars for carpooling during the trip.

That said, public transportation is an option. For public transportation information and driving directions to Highland Center at Crawford Notch and Shapleigh Bunkhouse, go to: http://www.outdoors.org/lodging/lodges/highland/before-you-go.cfm.

On the first night (Sunday), we will stay at the Highland Center at Crawford Notch. We will be served a hearty four-course, family-style dinner, and a hot & cold breakfast buffet the next morning.

Please do not make non-refundable travel arrangements until notified to do so by the trip leader.

Accommodations and Food

On the first night (Sunday), we will stay at the Highland Center at Crawford Notch. We will be served a hearty four-course, family-style dinner, and a hot & cold breakfast buffet the next morning.

Monday through Thursday nights we will stay in three of the Appalachian Mountain Club's (AMC) eight beautiful High Mountain Huts, a highlight of the White Mountains. Each hut offers coed bunkroom accommodations, dinner and breakfast, bathrooms, and one-of-a-kind views! Lights in the common areas run on propane gas or solar power (bring flashlights or headlamps). Please note there will be no opportunity to recharge devices while we stay at the huts so plan to bring storage batteries if you wish. There are no linens, heat, or showers, but there are 2-3 blankets and a pillow for each guest. You should bring a sheet sack/sleeping bag liner and pillowcase, or a sleeping bag if you wish. Enclosed gender-neutral washrooms have cold running water — you may want to bring a camp towel or washcloth.

The breakfast and dinner meals in the huts, prepared by experienced cooks, are exceptional — hearty, plentiful, nutritious, and delicious. Vegetarian options are always available. Participants will supply their lunches and snacks; the leaders will be happy to offer suggestions.

Mizpah Spring Hut: Built in 1964, Mizpah Spring Hut is the youngest hut in the system. It was added to the chain of huts running from Lonesome Lake to Carter Notch in response to the steep increase in demand in the 1960s (partly due to the National Geographic article written about the huts by Supreme Court Justice William O. Douglas). The location of Mizpah shortened the hike from Zealand Falls to Lakes of the Clouds for hikers seeking the same comfortable accommodations in the woods.

Lakes of the Clouds Hut: The original stone hut was built in 1915 and has been greatly enlarged since then. It is located on a shelf near the foot of Mt. Monroe about 50 yards west of the larger lake at an elevation of 5,012 feet. It is reached by the Crawford Path or the Ammonoosuc Ravine Trail, and has accommodations for 96 guests in coed bunkrooms.

Madison Spring Hut: Built-in 1888 at Madison Spring (4,800 feet), a little north of the Adams-Madison col, Madison Hut is the second-highest hut in the chain and sits at the oldest hut site in the United States. The present hut, rebuilt and improved after a fire in 1940 and then extensively renovated in 2010-2011, sleeps 52 guests in two coed bunkrooms.

Trip Difficulty

This is a moderately strenuous bucket list hiking trip for people who want to experience the spectacular high peaks and ridges of the White Mountains of New Hampshire. Pack weights should not exceed ~  25 pounds. Distances hiked each day are not lengthy, but the rocky terrain and challenging weather can make travel far more difficult than distance alone may suggest. Rain/snow/sleet/fog and high winds can occur any month of the year.

Equipment and Clothing

You will need comfortable hiking clothes for a wide range of temperatures (temps on Mt. Washington can go below freezing), well-broken-in boots, a full rain suit (including jacket and pants for high winds and rain), a sheet sack or sleeping bag liner and pillowcase (or light sleeping bag), personal toiletries, and a large sturdy day pack and pack cover (we recommend packing gear in plastic bags as well). We will provide a detailed clothing and equipment list to confirmed participants. Please note: only man-made fabrics or wool should be used on this trip; please don't pack cotton.

References

Log on to www.outdoors.org or www.fs.usda.gov/whitemountain for information about the White Mountains. The Appalachian Mountain Club (AMC) White Mountain Guide is considered “the Bible” and offers the most detailed trail descriptions and maps.

AND check out these videos:

• A Summer at AMC's White Mountain Huts: Episode 3

• Meet AMC’s Hut Croo

• Experience lodging through the Appalachian Mountain Club

Conservation

Log on to www.outdoors.org or www.fs.usda.gov/whitemountain for information about the White Mountains. The Appalachian Mountain Club (AMC) White Mountain Guide is considered “the Bible” and offers the most detailed trail descriptions and maps.