Dark Forest and Starry Skies: Astronomy and Fall Day Hiking in the Pennsylvania Wilds

The Trip

 Restore your connection to the dark night sky and view the Milky Way and the Orionid meteor shower. Located in the 262,000-acre Susquehannock State Forest in the area of Pennsylvania known as the PA Wilds, on the ancestral lands of the Susquehannock people, Cherry Springs State Park was specially designated in 2020 as a dark sky viewing area. The location of the park on top of a 2300 foot mountain, surrounded by state forest lands, creates outstanding, 360 degree night sky viewing conditions. The skies here are Bortle 2 rated (which is the second highest level of darkness for astronomical viewing) and even beginner stargazers will be able to spot constellations and planets with the unaided eye . This gold International Dark Skies Park offers two stargazing fields with excellent views of the nucleus of the Milky Way Galaxy, planets, constellations, and meteors. Participants will tent camp in the rustic sites at Cherry Springs and use red lamp headlights to walk up to the stargazing field each night. In addition to ranger led programs on reducing light pollution and spotting common constellations, participants will have a private star tour with the opportunity to see deep space objects through a telescope. 

During the days, we will hike in the beautiful fall colors in Susquehannock State Forest and watch for black bears, bobcats, deer and other wildlife. The current state of the forests in the PA Wilds is the result of reforestation efforts by the Commonwealth of Pennsylvania after the boreal forest was logged in the late 1800s by private interests. We will take a side trip to the Pennsylvania Lumber Museum to trace the history of these forests and the people who have lived in them and profited by them. Finally, we will spend one day at Pine Creek Gorge, the Pennsylvania Grand Canyon to take in the glory of the fall foliage. We will adjust our daily hiking schedules to ensure that we are able to stay up late and enjoy the star show. This trip is rated moderate, see the Trip Difficulty section below for more details. 

The Project

The intent for this Dark Forest and Starry Skies adventure is to have you experience as much of the wonders of the night sky as possible, as safely as possible.  When hiking, we may adjust planned hikes based on local weather or trail conditions.  The Itinerary below may change based on weather, safety and other conditions, if you are flexible and have a sense of adventure you will enjoy this outing!

Day 1: Plan to arrive at Cherry Springs State Park by 4:00 p.m..  We will set up camp, prepare our first dinner together, and have a brief orientation talk on the history and dark sky principles of the park.   We will welcome a Cherry Springs park ranger to talk with us about the park history, and to prep us to watch for the Orionid meteors, the Milky Way, and the planets we will be observing.  After dinner, we will don our red headlamps and head to the star field.

Day 2: After breakfast, we will pack trail lunches and head out in carpools to the Splash Dam Hollow trailhead.  We will be hiking on a part of the 85-mile long Susquehannock Trail System, through an area that was heavily logged in the late 1800’s and early 1900’s and is now covered in second-growth forest.  We will descend along a ravine to Splash Dam Hollow where we will look for the remains of splash dams used by loggers and the beaver dams that are now at several points on the trail. We will loop back to our starting point and head back for dinner and more stars.  (7.8 miles 1,124 feet elevation gain).

Day 3: After a late breakfast (to allow early morning sky viewing), we will pack bag lunches and head out in carpools to nearby Lyman Run State Park.  After an easy, 4.5-mile hike by Lyman Run Lake (elevation gain 591 feet), we will enjoy a late picnic lunch lakeside and watch for migratory birds.  We will head back to camp to make dinner, and then get ready for a private two-hour star tour that will include use of a high power telescope to look for Deep Space Objects.  (Note that the tour day may be moved if weather conditions are not favorable).

Day 4: We will head out after breakfast to the Pennsylvania Lumber Museum (admission included in trip price) and take a guided tour to learn more about the history of the forest, the legacy of logging in the region, and how the PA Wilds are managed today.  After a guided tour of the museum and a walk on a 1.7-mile interpretive trail, we will enjoy a lunch provided by the museum.  The afternoon is free to explore Coudersport or return to explore the short interpretive logging trail at Cherry Springs or rest in preparation for our night spent at the Astronomy Viewing Field at Cherry Springs.  This field is equipped with electric power for telescopes and photographic equipment.  

Day 5: This will be our longest hiking day.  We will pack our trail lunches and carpool to a nearby trailhead to hike through the Hammersley Wild Area, the largest area in Pennsylvania without a road.  We will watch for wildlife and stop at the Hammersley Pool for lunch.  After lunch we will head back to the trailhead along the same trail.  (11 miles, 780 ft elevation gain).   We will return to camp for dinner and more stargazing.   

Day 6: After breakfast we will pack lunch and carpool 45 minutes to Pine Creek Gorge, the Pennsylvania Grand Canyon.  A short but challenging 1.5 mile hike in Leonard Harrison State Park will take us 800 feet down to the bottom of the gorge, and then we will climb back up the same way, taking in the fall colors.  After lunch and exploration of the overlooks at the top, we will head back to camp for dinner and to prepare for our last night together among the stars.

Day 7: After breakfast we will break camp and depart.

Getting There

The nearest airport to Cherry Springs State Park is Buffalo International Airport (126 miles, 2 hours 45 minutes), with both Pittsburgh International Airport (201 miles, 4 hours) and Cleveland International Airport (258 miles, 4 hours 20 minutes) slightly further away. Drive times are estimates only and participants are encouraged to carpool. Participants will carpool to trailheads, and drive times will vary between 20 and 45 minutes each way.

Do not make non-refundable travel arrangements until notified to do so by the trip leader. Trip insurance is highly recommended.

Accommodations and Food

We will tent camp at Cherry Springs State Park. The rustic campsites include potable water and vault toilets. Showers are available for a small fee at Lyman Run State Park, a short drive away. All trip meals from day one dinner to day seven breakfast (as well as trail snacks) are included. We will cook hearty camp fare, which will accommodate vegetarians. Please be aware that meals are prepared for a group and cannot accommodate all individual preferences or extremely restrictive diets. Discuss any dietary restrictions with the leaders in advance to be sure the trip can accommodate your nutritional intake needs. With the leaders’ assistance, all participants will prepare meals and help with clean up.

Trip Difficulty

This trip has a moderate rating. We will be hiking between 4.5 miles and 11 miles each day, in some cases combining multiple shorter hikes. Trails may be overgrown, and elevation gain or loss may be as much as 1,125 feet.  For participants who hike to the bottom of Pine Creek Gorge, the total elevation loss and gain is 1600 feet in 1.5 miles. Some creek crossings may be required, and trails may be muddy or wet. We will be walking to observation fields to observe stars in the dark, and we will be on an outdoor field that may be damp and cold in the evenings.

Equipment and Clothing

Participants will need to bring all personal gear, including tents, pads, warm sleeping bags (rated to at least 30 degrees), daypacks and water bottles (at least three liters total), a red-light headlamp or red light flashlight, well broken in hiking boots, hiking poles if desired, a personal first aid kit and other personal gear. Weather in the PA Wilds at this time of year can be variable, and warm layers and reliable rain gear are recommended. Participants are encouraged to bring personal telescopes or binoculars, although electrical outlets for powered telescopes are only available on the Astronomy Field. The trip leader will provide a detailed packing list to registered participants.

References

• Cherry Springs Sky Viewing Chart: http://www.cleardarksky.com/c/ChrSprPkPAkey.html
• Dark Sky Resources on Light Pollution: https://darksky.org/
• Calia, Charles L, The Stargazing Year: a Backyard Astronomer's Journey Through the Seasons of the Night Sky, New York : Jeremy P. Tarcher/Penguin, 2005. 
• Eklof, Johan, The Darkness Manifesto: On Light Pollution, Night Ecology, and the Ancient Rhythms That Sustain Life, New York : Scribner, 2023.
• Smithsonian Institution Podcast “Lights Out”: https://www.si.edu/sidedoor/lights-out

Conservation

The dark night sky is a natural resource worthy of protection for both human and wildlife wellbeing.  Our ancestors observed celestial bodies every night--noting changes and creating stories that make up a scientific and cultural resource.  Today, light pollution prevents a third of the world's population from being able to see the Milky Way, and light pollution disrupts wildlife behavior. The International Astronomical Union has urged governments "to safeguard the right of any citizen to enjoy the vision of the starred sky... [and to ]establish a suitable number of ‘Dark Sky Oases’ and protect them from excessive artificial light at night.”  The Commonwealth of Pennsylvania has created the best such oasis on the East Coast at Cherry Springs State Park, with Bortle 2 rated skies and a robust star watching program.  Participants will learn the importance of conserving our night skies, will practice principles to maintain our night vision, and also experience the conservation story of the second growth forests in the PA Wilds.