Early-Season Exploration in the Golden Trout Wilderness, Inyo National Forest, California

The Trip

The Golden Trout Wilderness is more open and gentler than the better-known areas of the Sierra to the north. It is celebrated for its expansive meadows, flowing creeks, and the fish for which the wilderness is named. Our loop takes us deep into the Wilderness, to visit one of the most spectacular high alpine lake basins in the Southern Sierra: Rocky Basin Lakes. Climbing to the Boreal Plateau, perched high above Sequoia National Park, we will be able to simultaneously gaze at Mount Whitney, the crown of the Sierra Crest, and the Great Western Divide.

In June, expect many snow-covered peaks. Despite the snow and icy lakes, the arrival of spring brings warmer temperatures and long, sunny days. Depending on the amount of snow that falls this winter in the Southern Sierra, springtime may come early or late to the area in which we will travel. Hence, our adventure accordingly has variable conditions that are difficult to predict. The leaders have found that both mosquitos and hikers are rarely seen on these early season trips! Occasional easy snow travel may be required; however, on past trips we have been able to avoid prolonged travel over snow, and we have not yet been forced to camp on it.

“Keep close to Nature's heart... and break clear away, once in a while, and climb a mountain or spend a week in the woods. Wash your spirit clean.” - John Muir

Our objectives are to enjoy this iconic area of the Sierra Nevada and complete the trip safely as a group. Participants should come prepared to meet the variety of challenges that outdoor travel brings when exposed to high altitude, primitive camping, extreme weather changes, and sore feet from carrying heavy packs. Traveling off trail, and possibly on snow at times, increases the difficulty of the trip and contributes to a true wilderness experience.

Since successful backpacking requires thorough planning and preparation, the leader will provide pre-trip correspondence, advice, and resource information to help with gear selection and physical conditioning. We aim to create a minimum impact in this very special place. Although this trip is designed for experienced backpackers, beginners with superior fitness may be considered.

The evening before we embark there is an optional get together at our campsite near Horseshoe Meadow (elevation 10,000 feet) about 20 miles by car from Lone Pine, CA. This will be a great time for us to get acquainted and relax over a meal before beginning our adventure. Please bring your own dinner as the leaders will only provide snacks. We will also go over trip procedures, finish preparations for our journey, and give ourselves one more night to acclimatize to the high elevation.

We encourage participants to arrive a day or two early to begin acclimatizing. Fantastic day hiking is nearby. Giving the body extra time to adjust can often make a big difference in trip enjoyment.

Day 1: The trip officially starts at 7 a.m. with breakfast, the first provided meal. Afterward, group gear will be distributed, and we will be on our way to Trail Pass, en route to Tunnel Meadow. We make camp adjacent to Golden Trout Creek. Although we hike about 12 miles we gain only around 1,000 feet. However, if there is significant snow at the pass, the day could be exhausting for those marginally fit and poorly acclimatized.

Day 2: Leaving Tunnel we meander alongside the Wild and Scenic South Fork of the Kern River. Highlights are Volcano Meadow (with a real volcano!) and Little Whitney Meadow, purportedly the most beautiful in the Sierra. Depending on winter snowfall, the meadows could be golden and dry, green and boggy, or packed with colorful wildflowers. This will be a long but incredibly rewarding day – about 8 miles with about 1,000 feet of elevation gain. We will be rewarded with an idyllic streamside camp; perhaps we will swim or soak our tired feet.

Day 3: We travel a rugged unmaintained trail to our majestic ridgetop campsite (10,800 feet) high above Rocky Basin Lakes. Stream crossings, possibly challenging, and ascending 2,800 feet over about 7 miles makes this day one of the toughest.

Day 4: Our second planned layover day will be used to explore Rocky Basin and its numerous lakes. This remote pristine area is not to be missed! Ambitious folks will visit Johnson Lake, and maybe even climb Johnson Peak. Others may enjoy our lakeside camp to spend the time as they wish.

Day 5: We depart Rocky Basin and head cross-country to summit the Boreal Plateau where we are able to simultaneously take in the Great Western Divide and the Whitney region. Descending to Funston Lake in Sequoia National Park, we make camp lakeside and optionally head off to explore Forgotten Canyon and summit Mount Anna Mills, one of the few "female peaks."

Day 6: Leaving Funston Lake we work our way over rugged terrain off-trail to a “secret” idyllic lake nestled below Siberian Pass. Warmer than other lakes in the area, it provides fine swimming. Expect about 2,000 feet of cumulative elevation change over 8 miles. An afternoon swimming or relaxing will revitalize us for the hike out!

Day 7: Leaving only footprints and taking only memories, we will depart our lakeside camp and traverse Big Whitney Meadow. Our final day will be long; however, we will be fully acclimatized, and our packs will be light so 10 miles and 1,700 feet of climbing over Cottonwood Pass will be a breeze. We should arrive to our cars by noon; however, unexpected delays happen so booking flights home that day is not recommended. An optional group meal in Lone Pine (not provided) is the usual destination upon returning from a backpack of this duration and magnitude!

Getting There

Participants are responsible for getting themselves to and from the trailhead rendezvous point. If you’re flying, airports in Los Angeles (230 miles), Reno (280 miles), Mammoth (110 miles), or Las Vegas (250 miles) may all provide reasonable options. Car rental or sharing a ride to the trailhead will be necessary because public transportation options are very limited in the Eastern Sierra. Although Mammoth-Yosemite Airport is the closest, in summer there are only a few flights each day and car rental there is usually more expensive than at major airports. Please do not make non-refundable travel arrangements until notified by the trip leader.

Driving directions, maps, and information about places to stay before and after the trip will be sent to all participants. The leader will also send out a trip roster to facilitate ride-sharing arrangements unless you request not to have your contact information distributed.

Accommodations and Food

Come with the attitude that food is part of the adventure. Trip menu planning considers that there is no refrigeration and food must be protected from animals. We provide healthy, nutritious vegetarian-friendly meals. An optional small amount of meat -- along with dairy, nuts, legumes, and soy products -- will be added to ensure ample protein. We have a group commissary, with everyone taking turns preparing food. Before applying for the trip, people with food allergies and/or strong food preferences must contact the leader to see if accommodations are possible.

Our meals have been field-tested for simplicity as well as good taste -- you’ll be surprised at the variety and wholesomeness of the food. And as to the quantity, our goal is that you’re well-fed at each meal, without any waste to carry out. All cooking gear and stoves are provided, but participants must bring their own utensils and personal water treatment. Meals provided include breakfast on the first day through lunch on the last day. We do provide a variety of energy bars and snacks; however, participants may choose to bring their own. Since space is tight in the bear canisters the amount of personal food is limited to a 1-quart bag.

Trip Difficulty

The trip difficulty is rated 4 on a scale from 1 to 5, where 1 is the least difficult and 5 is the most difficult. Participants who have previously been on 4-rated trips might consider this trip an “easy 4” based solely on mileage and elevation gain; however, travel in snow may increase the trip’s difficulty. Mileage on backpack-carrying days ranges from 5 to 11 miles, with a cumulative distance of 55 miles. We will gain and lose about 8,500 feet of elevation during the backpacking portion of the trip. Challenging, optional day-hikes are bound to satisfy even the most energic in the group. A 4 rating indicates the trip is a “moderately strenuous” backpacking trip, not a moderately strenuous trip of any kind. Significantly above-average fitness is required for most individuals to enjoy a 2 or 3 rated backpack. For this 4-rated trip, you cannot be too fit! In addition, good balance and sure-footedness is required to safely navigate stream crossings and possibly snow.

Previous backpacking experience is ideal, but exceptional baseline fitness is essential for this outing. Carrying a 35- to 45-pound pack, possibly on snow at times, with daily elevation changes up to 2,800 feet is physically demanding, particularly at altitude. Remember that you will be required to carry about 12-14 pounds of food and group gear, in addition to your personal gear and water. Participants must arrive prepared for the rigorous physical demands of backpacking. If unsure of your ability, please discuss trip suitability with the leader prior to signing up. We are happy to share successful methods participants have used to prepare for similar 4 rated trips.

Known for its temperate summer weather, the High Sierra can also experience sudden, unexpected spells of rain, hail, snow, heat, and cold. Daytime temperatures can soar into the upper 80s, while nighttime temperatures can dip into the 30s or lower. It is essential that participants be prepared for extremes in weather conditions and be flexible so that we can adapt our route to accommodate unexpected conditions or events.

Given the early season departure of this trip, it is conceivable that we may travel through some snow, usually stable and well consolidated in spring, or possibly need to set up camp on or adjacent to it some nights. Less snow falls in the Golden Trout than in most other areas of the High Sierra, and it melts faster; so, don’t be dismayed if you find early season reports describing difficult conditions. The leaders are confident they will be able to provide a safe, mostly snow free, spectacular route in the Golden Trout Wilderness, no matter what the winter delivers! Flexibility is important in route planning, and alterations may be necessary immediately before or even during the trip, depending on weather and trail conditions.

Equipment and Clothing

The Sierra Club will provide the food (including hot drinks and trail snacks), pots, cooking utensils, stoves, fuel, and bear-resistant canisters. At the beginning of the trip, participants will be issued one bear canister loaded with food, plus a portion of the group gear, which together may weigh up to 16 pounds. Personal gear should be limited to less than 20-25 pounds so that total pack weight is less than 45 pounds, including 2 liters of water. The leader is available and willing to assist beginners in choosing equipment wisely. A pack volume of at least 60-75 liters is required for this trip. Keep in mind the pack must accommodate a Bear Vault BV 500 canister plus some additional group gear, and all your personal gear.

Sturdy, well broken-in boots with rubber lug soles are required for this trip. If snow travel is likely, boots must be at least ankle high and waterproof. Trekking poles with snow baskets and traction devices might be required. For shelter, a tent with a rain fly is recommended. For raingear, bring a waterproof jacket and pants instead of a poncho. The leader will send detailed equipment recommendations to participants well in advance of the trip. General information regarding personal gear may be found at http://www.knapsack.org/basic_equipment.html although the leader will have more specific recommendations, tailored to expected conditions. It is best to ask before buying an item if it is specifically for this trip.

References

• Muir, John, The Mountains of California. Doubleday.
• King, Clarence, Mountaineering in the Sierra Nevada. University of Nebraska Press. The first real literature of the Sierra by the famed geologist and first director of the United States Geological Survey. 
• Farquhar, Francis, History of the Sierra Nevada. Farquhar was an early member of the Sierra Club. The book deals with the human history of the area. 
• Storer and Usinger, Sierra Nevada Natural History. University of California Press.
• Swedo, Suzanne, Hiking California’s Golden Trout Wilderness. Falcon/Globe Pequot Press.
• Our entire route is nicely portrayed on the Tom Harrison map: “Golden Trout Wilderness." There are many phone navigation apps. A favorite is Gaia GPS, which allows maps of an area to be downloaded to most devices. However, the maps must be downloaded prior to the trip because cell reception is non-existent in the area we will travel.

Conservation

The Sierra Club’s history is steeped in efforts to preserve endangered habitat and wilderness. Indeed, the Club was instrumental in passing the Wilderness Act of 1964 that established the National Wilderness Preservation System and which afforded the High Sierra the highest level of protection possible. The Sierra Club and its one-time president Joe Fontaine were instrumental in establishing the Golden Trout Wilderness in 1978. As Club members, we have reason to be proud of these accomplishments when we hike through the region.

The portion of our journey along the South Fork of the Kern River is designated Wild and Scenic, affording the strongest protection for our nation’s free flowing rivers and streams. In 1968, Congress created the National Wild and Scenic Rivers System with the support of the Sierra Club.

The Club’s work on conservation issues continues to this day. While most of our outings in the Sierra Nevada visit places that have already been protected, either as parks or as wilderness, the lands surrounding them face threats on several fronts:

• Air pollution from the Central Valley is weakening trees and other flora. The Sierra lakes are more acidic than in years past.
• Rural development in the foothills and in the forests is encroaching on traditional habitat boundaries, increasing pressures on animals and threatening downstream water quality.
• Logging practices are still extremely disruptive and logging roads leave scars that remain long after the forests recover.
• Cattle grazing at the edges of wilderness areas poses a direct threat to water quality and fish habitat. Recent efforts by local groups to "retire" grazing permits, which would allow watersheds to recover and rejuvenate themselves, are being fought in the state legislature. This is particularly pertinent to the meadows of the Golden Trout Wilderness where the battle to prevent expansion of grazing areas is ongoing.
• The introduction and stocking of rainbow trout, a non-native species in the watershed of our journey, is endangering native golden trout and also native amphibians. We will discuss successful efforts to remedy some of the problems created by the “rainbows."
• Fire is an ever-present danger. We will discuss current thinking regarding best practices for forest management to minimize the risk to the wilderness.
• In short, the areas we pass through on our way to the high-country face many of the same threats that prompted the establishment of the parks and wilderness areas. While on this trip, feel free to ask your leaders about conservation issues that are relevant to this outing. The Sierra Club believes that its outings program provides a perfect opportunity for members to enjoy the fruits of past conservation victories and to learn about current concerns.