Expedition Through the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge: Discovering Untamed Wilderness, Alaska

The Trip

The Arctic National Wildlife Refuge, located in the northernmost reaches of Alaska, is a haven for wildlife and natural beauty. Backpacking in this pristine wilderness is a remarkable adventure for those who seek a connection with nature in one of the most pristine and remote environments on Earth. This trip offers the unique and unforgettable experience of witnessing the beauty and grandeur of the Arctic wilderness while respecting and preserving its delicate ecosystems. 

While moving quietly through this pristine wilderness, with it’s breathtaking vistas, we hope to see some of the vast Porcupine caribou herd as it returns on its annual migration to ancestral calving grounds on the Arctic plain. This concentration of prey attracts predators in great abundance and with luck we could see bears, wolves, wolverine and fox as well as sheep, moose and many nesting migratory birds.

Deep in the heart of the Brooks Range, through broad glacial valleys, and narrow mountain passes our route is far from well-known rafting rivers and presents a rare opportunity to explore a particularly un-traveled section of the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge. A strategic food and fuel cache, will lighten our packs somewhat, but the challenges of traveling over uneven terrain, negotiating numerous river crossings and finding suitable campsites each night will mean this will be strenuous undertaking. 

Following Leave No Trace principles and being conscientious stewards of the land, we will help ensure the protection and preservation of this unique natural area for future generations.

In addition to having the personal experience of a lifetime, by visiting the Arctic Refuge, participants will come to more fully appreciate this vast, remote and inspirational place, and gain a deeper understanding of its unique status as the most significant wilderness area remaining in the United States. 

With a combined 20 trips led in the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge before, the leader duo for this trip will lead a route quite possibly never completed by anyone before. The uncertainties of backpacking through this trail-less terrain cannot be overstated and the timing of the onset of spring and variations in snowmelt and glacial runoff make for highly variable river water levels and hiking conditions. Daily mileage is estimated as the location of suitable campsites cannot be planned for. Trip challenges and other factors outside of our control may necessitate modifications or completely alter plans. Collectively, this is part of the adventure when exploring such remote and challenging environments. Embracing the unpredictability and being prepared will enhance your overall experience.

On Day 1 we will fly north from Fairbanks in two groups. The first will travel with a scheduled regional airline to the Gwich'in settlement of Arctic Village and then onwards on a spectacular flight in a three-passenger bush plane to a remote tundra strip high in the Brooks Range. The other group will make the entire outward journey in the bush plane. Bad weather can easily cause delay, but with any luck we will all be on the ground by in the Refuge by lunch time and will be able to spend our first afternoon proceeding 2 or 3 miles north up this vast and stunning river valley.

From here we will have several options for our adventure. We may decide our final route after assessing our group's strengths and actual conditions on the ground. The most likely scenario will be to first head east for five days through a maze of smaller unnamed valleys, crossing over our highest pass, at a little over 5500 feet, and then down to where our pilot will have dropped a welcome food and fuel cache for the second section of our expedition.

For the next 3 days we will continue in an easterly direction, through yet more remote and rarely travelled land, over another high pass, before eventually emerging onto yet another stunning major river drainage. The final day will be spent heading south down a beautiful glacial valley to our end point, where another welcome treat and full cache awaits.

We plan to begin hiking about 9 a.m. every day and hope to stop at about 5 p.m., but the uncertainties of backpacking through this trail-less terrain cannot be overstated.  Those who need to reach camp at a set time each day will not enjoy this trip. 

On our final day, weather permitting, we will reverse our plane journeys; shuttling via bush plane over the Brooks Range to Arctic Village; and form there flying south for an anticipated late afternoon arrival in Fairbanks.

Getting There

We will meet you in Fairbanks, where group-gear and food will be divided. It’s recommended you arrive at least a day before the trip begins to allow time for delayed bags to turn up. Return flights from Fairbanks should be scheduled at least one full day after the trip end date, as weather conditions can easily delay bush flights out of the Refuge. Please do not make non-refundable travel arrangements before confirming with trip leaders.

Accommodations and Food

 All meals, drinks, and snacks are provided for the duration of the trip, starting with lunch on the first day and ending with lunch on the final day. Special dietary considerations may be accommodated if leaders are notified in advance. The Sierra Club will furnish stoves, pots, cooking gear, and fuel. All meals will be prepared and eaten as a group, andall participants will be expected to take turns preparing meals and cleaning up.

Trip Difficulty

This trip as rated ‘5’ – the most strenuous we offer - and even the most experienced backpackers are often surprised by how tough this terrain can be. A trip like this would not usually be recommended for the inexperienced – but sometimes youth, strength and willingness to take advice and guidance can outweigh experience, as few will have backpacked in anywhere quite like this.

This will be an immersion into the ever-changing and unpredictable weather of the arctic. Hot, sweaty, sunny days are often followed by cold rain and snow. There are no trails except for those made by wildlife and, while gravel bars and firm tundra benches will be our preferred hiking surfaces, we'll often traverse rocky riverbeds, negotiate boggy and unsteady tussock fields, wade through shallow water and frequently travel over ice. Packs will be very heavy for the first few days and particularly after picking up our cache. Participants should be in good physical condition and have experience in, or relish the thought of, backpacking over rough terrain for extended periods and in adverse weather. Elevation gains will be moderate and we hope to hike approximately 7-10 miles per day. However, please be aware that these numbers may not necessarily account for the countless obstacles avoided in a trail-less wilderness. Two hours of additional hiking to find a good campsite, after an already long hard day cannot be ruled out. We will negotiate several river crossings, which can be quite challenging, but safety will be our top priority and if water levels are too high, we will alter our plans. Participants should be prepared for the possibility of hiking with wet feet. 

All participants must commit to pre-trip conditioning. You’ll need good stamina, strength, balance, and a high comfort level with uneven terrain. Participants over 70 years old may be particularly challenged by this trip. A well-matched group, in abilities and expectations, makes for the most rewarding experience for all. All participants will be vetted prior to acceptance onto the trip but you are strongly encouraged to contact the trip leaders prior to signup to discuss the trip rating and your personal suitability for it. 

Equipment and Clothing

Participants should appreciate there will be no opportunity to get out of the weather except in their tents at the end of each day. Proper equipment selection is critical and all equipment should be thoroughly field-tested before departure. Participants should be prepared to be out and active in rain and other adverse weather. We especially urge you to bring only high-quality clothing and boots, high-quality lightweight (but not ultra-light) equipment, good binoculars, and as little of everything else as possible. Participants will need to supply their own tent, backpack, sleeping bag and pad, rain gear, and mess kit. In addition to their own gear, each participant is expected to carry approximately 18 pounds of group food and equipment, so please limit the weight of your personal gear accordingly. 

Having the correct equipment is a crucial part of trip safety so all gear will be inspected prior to departure from Fairbanks. Confirmed participants will receive a detailed equipment list and your leaders are happy to discuss any gear questions you may have. 

The leaders will carry a first-aid kit and a satellite communication device for use in emergencies but, in an effort to avoid being surrounded by the pervasive technology of modern life, participants are asked to not bring phones/communication devices of any kind or any personal tech, except cameras.

The warming global climate has made weather in the Arctic Refuge particularly unpredictable. While we would normally expect relatively mild temperatures, in the 50s and 60s, it can change quickly and be colder or warmer and wind chill can be a major factor. You should anticipate and be prepared for strong sun, fog, drizzle, heavy rain, snow and very strong winds. 

Water Purification

The trip leaders will be drinking directly from the rivers and streams they pass, but Chlorine-based disinfectant tablets will be provided to treat your drinking water, as needed.

References

Maps:

USGS quadrangles: 1:250,000: ‘Arctic’ & ‘Table Mountain’,

Books:

Arctic Dreams by Barry Lopez - National Book Award-winning classic study of the Far North.

Earth and the Great Weather by Kenneth Brower - A rich resource on the Brooks Range.

Land of Extremes, A Natural History of the North Slope of Alaska by Alex Huryn & John Hobbie.

Midnight Wilderness by Debbie S. Miller - A compilation of the author's journeys in the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge.

Ordinary Wolves by Seth Kantner - A novel about growing up in modern Inupiat culture.

The Last Great Wilderness by Roger Kaye - A history of the effort and political dealings to establish The Arctic National Wildlife Refuge.

Two Old Women, Story of Survival in the Alaskan wilderness by Velma Wallis - based on an Athabascan Indian legend of the Upper Yukon River Valley.

Vanishing Arctic by T. H. Watkins - A comprehensive study of the Refuge and its future.

Conservation

The Arctic National Wildlife Refuge, at over 19 million acres, is the country’s largest wildlife refuge and one of the most pristine landscapes in North America.

The area was first protected in the 1960s and later grew in size. However, like so many places, the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge is threatened by pressure to drill for oil, and this pressure has intensified in recent years. A changing climate is also contributing to changes in this area. Polar bears are forced off the dwindling sea ice and move inland, altering the predator/prey ecosystem. Discussions about migration patterns, flora, fauna, the ancient history of this land, and the potential changes that this refuge, as well as our entire natural heritage, faces in the future will be a running thread throughout our journey.

A central aim of this trip is to introduce the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge and surrounding regions to future stewards of this land and encourage you to help protect it for generations to come.