Fall Kaleidoscope in Porcupine Mountains Wilderness State Park, Michigan

The Trip

Nestled on the shore of Lake Superior in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula, the Porcupine Mountains Wilderness State Park — the Porkies — is known for magnificent views and some of the best hiking in the Midwest. About half of the park’s 60,000 acres is an ancient forest, the largest old-growth stand of Hemlocks and hardwoods in North America. Unlike most of northern Minnesota, Wisconsin, and Michigan, trees were left standing here because lumber barons deemed a large part of the Porkies too rugged and remote to be profitable. But it’s exactly this rugged and remote nature that has drawn hikers to the Porkies since 1945 when it was established as a park, in part to protect the virgin forest as a tree museum.

This car-camping vacation at the end of September should be timed for a kaleidoscope of fall color. We’ll take advantage of this challenging terrain with day hikes ranging from five to 12 miles, totaling more than 40 miles for the week. Trails in this vast wilderness lead us to peaks with long views of Lake Superior, pristine backcountry lakes, deep river valleys, waterfalls, and miles and miles of untouched forest. Two of our hikes follow sections of an eight-mile-long escarpment as much as 500 feet above beautiful Lake of the Clouds, providing some of the most picturesque trail views in the Midwest.

Join us this fall and discover why the Porkies is a favorite destination of Midwest hikers and why readers of USA Today in 2015 named the Porkies the second best state park in the country.

Day 1: We will set up a cozy camp for the week in our car-accessible campsite. A reception will begin at 4 p.m., followed by orientation and dinner, and if conditions permit, a campfire with s’mores.

Day 2: This 5.2-mile loop progresses on boardwalks through beaver habitat near the Little Carp River before reaching beautiful Mirror Lake, then ascends to the highest point in the park, Summit Peak. A 40-foot observation tower on Summit Peak reveals miles and miles of old-growth forest.

Day 3: Hiking south 7.5 miles on Government Peak and Lost Lake trails, we will enjoy rivers, rapids and falls; a gorgeous gorge and remote Lost Lake.

Day 4: The 4-mile Escarpment Trail “is the crowning jewel of trails not only in the Porkies but in all of Michigan and possibly the Midwest,” according to guidebook editor Jim DuFresne. The hike follows a ridge as much as 500-feet above the valley with vistas of iconic Lake of the Clouds.  The adjacent 3.5-mile Overlook Loop will take us through forests of virgin hemlock and occasional views deep into the rugged interior of the park.

Day 5: Today’s 12.4-mile Mirror Lake Loop is a Midwest classic, starting at Lake of the Clouds and winding through the heart of the Porkies through hemlock and hardwoods to peaceful Mirror Lake. This trail follows the Big Carp River before ascending to the miles-long escarpment with a panorama of Lake Superior and other camera-clicking views.

Day 6: The Union Spring Trail (5.4 miles long) leads through impressive forest past Union Spring, the state’s second-largest natural spring bubbling 700 gallons a minute.

Day 7: One last hike will be offered in the morning and the trips ends after lunch.

Getting There

The Porkies is in the far western corner of Michigan’s Upper Peninsula, 20 miles west of Ontonagon, Michigan. The nearest airports are small and offer a few commercial flights: Houghton County Memorial Airport is a 90-minute drive, and Sawyer International Airport near Marquette is about 3 hours away. Other options are Duluth, 3.5 hours away; Green Bay, 4 hours; and Minneapolis and Milwaukee, 5.5 hours.

A roster will be shared with participants to encourage car-sharing. We will need cars to help with shuttles to and from a few of the hikes.

The trip begins at 4 p.m. on Sunday with a reception, orientation, and dinner at the group campground at the eastern end of the park, and ends on Saturday after a short hike.

Please do not make non-refundable travel arrangements until notified to do so by the trip leader.

Accommodations and Food

This is a car-camping trip with day hikes, based at the group campground in the state park. The group campsite is reserved exclusively for our use and is a large area for tents with tables and pit toilets. Showers are available at nearby Union Springs Campground.

Highly rated meals are included, beginning with dinner on day one through lunch on day seven. We provide all the cooking equipment, except for personal plates, cups, and utensils. One of the benefits of car camping is that the canopied kitchen can be more elaborate, starting with percolated coffee each morning, as well as tea and other drinks, and including coolers for fresh vegetables and cold drinks. The menu, which will be shared with participants prior to the trip, is vegetarian friendly; however, if you avoid dairy products, grains, or nuts, this trip is not for you. We follow the Sierra Club tradition that everyone helps cook and clean.

Trip Difficulty

The Porkies is rugged in a Midwestern way, but don’t underestimate the challenge of rocky, rooty, steep, and sometimes muddy trails. Come prepared for several ankle-deep water crossings although streams may be flowing with more or less volume depending on precipitation.

Our hikes range from about five to 12 miles. The highest elevation is less than 2,000 feet.

High temperatures are usually in the 60s and lows are in the 40s, but come prepared to hike and camp comfortably regardless of temperatures or rain.

Hiking itinerary may change based on weather and trail conditions.

Equipment and Clothing

A detailed equipment list will be shared with the group. Participants use their own personal camping gear, including a tent; sleeping bag rated to 20 degrees; reliable rain gear; daypack; and broken-in hiking boots. 

References

• DuFresne, Jim, Porcupine Mountains Wilderness State Park: A Backcountry Guide for Hikers, Backpackers, Campers and Winter Visitors. Thunder Bay Press, 1999.
• Hansen, Eric, Hiking Michigan’s Upper Peninsula. A Falcon Guide, 2005.
• Longfellow, Henry Wadsworth, The Song of Hiawatha.

Conservation

Copper and iron ore mining shaped the Upper Peninsula for 200 years in boom and bust. Many of the mines closed in the 1960s, but there is a resurgence of interest due to improved technology and increased demand for the area’s iron, copper, and other metals. The tension is between jobs provided to this economically challenged area and environmental concerns. We’ll look at both sides. As Dale Hemmila of Cliffs Natural Resources told Wisconsin Public Radio referring to mining in the U.P., “We take rocks and send them out of here and bring money back.”

http://www.wpr.org/listen/434591

Leave No Trace principles will guide our stay in the Porkies. For more information: LNT

Sierra Club National Outings is an equal-opportunity provider and when applicable will operate under permits obtained from U.S. federal land agencies.