Fly-Fishing and Hiking in the Dinaric Alps, Croatia and Slovenia

The Trip

Welcome to Croatia, Slovenia, and the Dinaric Alps! All of your senses will be immersed in the stunning beauty that surrounds you as you venture into the sources of nature on this one-of-a-kind multi-sport adventure. We will focus on three activities: fly-fishing, hiking, and paddling. Each activity is designed to appeal to beginners or experts -- and beginners are very welcome. Because some of us may choose not to fish every day, or because some of us may not fish at all but are accompanying an angler, there are optional activities each day. Our itinerary is one that is not duplicated by any other adventure travel organization. It offers you the opportunity experience this magnificent area in a way that you could not do on your own. Join us!

Our route will take us from the historic Croatian capital city of Zagreb into the mountains that contain the highest concentration of national parks in the area -- we’ll visit five out of eight of these parks. We’ll journey along quiet roads in centuries-old forests, across river valleys, up stony slopes, and through charming villages. And because we are adventurers, not merely tourists, we will enjoy nature in a unique way: experiencing a mountain stream by standing knee-deep in its chilled water and casting a fly to native trout, experiencing a silent forest by quietly hiking through its ancient trees, experiencing a remote river from the seat of a kayak or raft, and much more.

Because we are travelers who choose to travel deeply, not merely sight-seers, we will also discover the region’s cultural and historical heritage: from ancient civilization, through tumultuous wars, to today’s modern and thriving region. With the help of some of the best local guides, we will do more than learn about the culture and history -- we will experience it through up-close and personal interactions with the people we meet along the way.

By the time the adventure is complete we will arrive at a new understanding of the beauty and purity of this region’s natural heritage, the culture, and history of the people, and appreciate why the Dinaric Alps have become one of Europe’s hottest new destinations for outdoor travel. 

Day 1: Arrivals and Orientation Day 

The Croatian capital Zagreb is young and playful at heart, despite the almost thousand year-old history of its old town, where the locals welcome visitors with traditional Croatian hospitality. Today we will meet at our hotel in the historic center of Zagreb for a welcome reception and dinner followed by an orientation meeting to introduce ourselves, meet our local guides, and discuss the details of our adventure.  After our meeting you’ll have time on your own to explore the beautiful architecture, parks, and monuments that surround the hotel. We’ll stay overnight at our four-star Zagreb hotel. 

Day 2: Let the adventure begin!

Zagreb is Croatia’s political, commercial, and cultural heart. Zagreb’s old town is a true feast for your senses, where you can sample some of the country’s most renowned restaurants and coffee shops in the midst of classic façades, lush gardens, and striking neo-classic buildings. After breakfast we’ll discover historic Zagreb on a guided walking tour and learn about the city from its ancient past to its vibrant present. 

We’ll be on our own to enjoy a leisurely lunch at a restaurant of your choice. Although this is not a group meal, the price of the lunch is included in your trip price. During our walking tour our guides will point out their favorite restaurants that you can return to for your meal.  

After lunch we’ll transfer by comfortable vans to our first destination in Slovenia. Transit time is about two hours. After we check into our inn we’ll have free time to sample the fishing in the river behind the inn. After dinner we’ll meet our fishing guide -- a former member of the Croatian National Fly-Fishing Team who has experience in fly-fishing tournaments worldwide.  He is one of the foremost experts on fly-fishing in the rivers and streams we will be visiting and we are very lucky to have him join us. We’ll stay overnight at the Slovenian inn.

Day 3: Fishing in Slovenian streams

Today we will enjoy a full day of fly-fishing on local streams. An optional all-day activity will be offered for non-anglers. Every day that a fishing activity is planned will also offer an alternative activity featuring hiking or paddling for anyone who prefers not to fish.

The Curak is a mountain stream that begins from a spring called the Green Whirlpool (Zeleni vir). Its whole flow (seven kilometers) runs through a beautiful wooded canyon. The banks of the Curak stream are covered in dense forest, making wading the preferred form of angling. It contains graylings and brown trout. If you enjoy fishing on small streams, the Curak will be an exciting challenge and a memorable experience for you.

The Kupica is a tributary of the Kupa River and it is only three miles long. Its banks are covered with lush greenery and it’s widely recognized as an excellent fishing area for any passionate angler. On each stream that we visit, our expert guide will share with us the best fishing spots and advice about the best techniques and strategies for catching the native fish. 

Alternative activity for non-anglers: Day hike in Risnjak National Park. We’ll hike in this beautiful park named after the rare Croatian Lynx. From the highest levels of the park’s mountains (which are the source of the Kupa River) we’ll take in amazing views and listen for cuckoos in the forest. The out-and-back hike is about 10 miles with 2,000 feet of elevation gain, and is rated “moderate/strenuous” by our Croatian guide. The highest elevation on this hike about 4,000 feet.

At the end of the day the entire group will meet at the inn, enjoy a tasty local meal, and trade stories about the day. We’ll overnight at the Slovenian inn. 

Day 4: The springs of the Kupa River

The Kupa is a large river that runs for 185 miles from Slovenia into Croatia. It begins as a typical spring-fed river from a limestone spring located high in the mountains of a nearby national park and this is where we will be fishing. The Kupa is a real mountain beauty with a characteristic greenish color. Its water is clear, pure, and home to brown trout, grayling, and the rare huchen (Danube salmon).

Alternative activity for non-anglers: In the morning we’ll hike along the Kupa River to the “source” by following a quiet single-track path through the forest. We’ll return to the starting point to join the anglers for lunch. This hike is about 4 miles, mostly level, and rated easy. After lunch we’ll hike in the canyon of the Kamacnik River -- a rough and tumble mountain stream. This hike is also about 4 miles, mostly level, and rated easy. Total hiking mileage today is about eight miles. 

We overnight again at our Slovenian inn.

Day 5: The downstream Kupa

On our final day in Slovenia we’ll challenge the Kupa River downstream from “the springs." Well-known fly-fishing expert and artist Jeff Currier considers this portion of the Kupa to be one of the best spots in the area for brown trout and grayling.

Alternative activity for non-anglers: Paddling on the Kupa River. Depending on water levels we’ll either paddle kayaks or paddle large rafts. This lovely river offers the opportunity to view birds and other wildlife in the stretches of flat water; it also offers the thrill of class 1, 2, and 3 white water. This half-day activity is suitable for beginning paddlers and is rated “easy/moderate."

After our fishing and paddling adventures, we’ll gather for a “farewell to Slovenia” dinner and spend our final night at the inn.

Day 6: Croatia’s newest national park

The highest and most interesting mountains in this region are the Dinaric Alps. A hundred million years ago the Dinaric Alps were thrown up in more or less parallel ranges, stretching like necklaces from the Julian Alps as far as the areas of northern Albania and Kosovo. Today we take a break from fishing to re-enter Croatia and discover its newest national park, located in the Velebit Mountains -- a part of the mountainous chain that makes up the Dinaric Alps. We’ll walk on perhaps the most famous trail in these alps -- as famous as the Appalachian Trail is in the USA. The trail gives us access to the most hidden and the most beautiful parts of the Dinaric Alps within the Velebit Mountains. Driving time is about two hours. Today’s hike will take about 6 hours and cover approximately nine miles with an elevation gain of about 700 feet. The trailhead elevation is about 4,900 feet. 

After we complete this stunning hike, we’ll transfer to our next fishing spot where we’ll arrive at our inn, a classic sportsman’s lodge. Driving time is about two hours. We’ll have free time to get settled in, stroll beside the river, and then meet for dinner. We overnight at the lodge.

Day 7: A world-class blue ribbon river runs through it

The Gacka River is one of the most esteemed and most renowned trout waters in Europe and the world. The Gacka, which runs through the Gacka Valley, is a typical chalk-stream and it is exceptionally rich in flora and fauna. These characteristics combine to make the Gacka famous worldwide for its brown trout. In addition to the brown trout, the river supports large populations of rainbow trout and grayling.

Alternative activity for non-anglers: We’ll visit Krka National Park for the day. Extending along the 73-kilometer River Krka, the Krka National Park runs from the Adriatic near Šibenik inland to the mountains of the Croatian interior. It’s a magical place where waterfalls look like necklaces on the river. We’ll take a short boat to the main waterfall, a short hike (about a mile) to a magnificent viewpoint, taste homemade pršut (smoked ham and cheese), and enjoy lunch in a local home.

We overnight at the lodge. 

Day 8: The Gacka experience continues

On our second day of fishing on the Gacka River we’ll use strategies and techniques learned yesterday to improve our success on the famous river.

Alternative activity for non-anglers: A day hike in Paklenica National Park. The trail follows the stream through a deep gorge that is a mecca for rock climbers from all over Europe. The trail  winds though the canyon and emerges on a ridge with sweeping views. Our destination is a mountain hut where the genial host, Mario, will prepare a lunch that many guests consider a highlight of the trip. The hike is about 9.5 miles with an elevation gain of 1,800 feet. The highest point on the hike is about 5,000 feet. It is rated “moderate."

We overnight at the lodge.

Day 9: Plitvice National Park 

Croatia has a vibrant national park system. Today we put away wading boots and put on our hiking boots as we visit the most iconic of all the parks, Plitvice Lakes National Park. A UNESCO World Heritage site, it has been called the most remarkable meeting of water and rock to be found anywhere in the world. The series of 16 emerald green and opal blue travertine lakes, more than 90 waterfalls, numerous caves, 129 bird species, and forest of beech and pine trees make for an unforgettable hike and a “must see” for any nature enthusiast. Driving time to the park is about two hours. Today’s hike will take most of the day as we walk at a leisurely pace and soak up all the stunning sights. We’ll cover about 8 miles with an elevation gain of just 500 feet.

After a full day of exploring this Croatian national treasure we’ll check in to our cozy guesthouses in a nearby village. The Korana River flows through the middle of the village, making it a storybook setting, but no fishing is allowed. We overnight here in our guesthouses.

Day 10: The Green Corner

After a hearty breakfast we’ll transfer to our next destination -- Zeleni Kut (the Green Corner), which is nestled next to the Mreznica River -- in time for lunch. Driving time is about two hours. The afternoon will be unstructured so that you can enjoy this lovely spot as you wish. You may choose to do some relaxed fishing, our guides may offer a local hike, or you may just want to enjoy a book on the deck overlooking the river. We’ll enjoy a family-style meal and overnight at Hotel Zeleni Kut.

Day 11: Paddling Day

Our adventure today takes us to the clear emerald water, unspoiled woods, and magical landscapes of the Mrežnica River. This is one of Croatia's finest and clearest rivers, ideal for rafting, kayaking, and canoeing.  Whether we use large rafts or tandem kayaks will be determined by the volume of water in the river. Due to its biological diversity and variety of habitats, the Mrežnica area will soon be categorized as a Croatian Nature Park.

Today’s outing is a relaxing day on the water with opportunities for swimming, jumping off waterfalls, and enjoying our natural surroundings. We’ll spend about four hours on the water plus we’ll take time for a picnic lunch. We’ll cover four miles of class 1-2 water. After our river excursion we return to our cozy hotel for dinner and our overnight stay.

Day 12: Return to Zagreb

Today we come full circle as we make our way back to Zagreb. Driving time is about an hour. We’ll arrive around mid-day in the city, where lunch will be on your own again (price of lunch is included).  For the rest of the afternoon you’ll have free time to enjoy Zagreb, get packed up, and prepare to return home. We’ll gather again for our farewell dinner and stay overnight in our Zagreb hotel.

Day 13: Departures

We are not tourists. We are adventurers who want to travel deeply. The word “adventure” comes from the Latin word “advenire,” which means “to arrive, come about or befall." Deep travel happens by letting things befall you, of submitting to the new and unfamiliar in the pursuit of new pleasures and new experiences. Travel is, by definition, an adventure. It allows us to live out our need for adventure, for escape, and for searching for paradise on earth. It is an opportunity to test ourselves in unfamiliar circumstances, to become more than we were before we traveled.

Transfers to Zagreb’s airport will begin after breakfast.

Getting There

Do not make non-refundable travel arrangements until notified to do so by the trip leader.

You are responsible for getting yourself to and from Zagreb. The trip begins and ends in Zagreb, which is served by Pleso International Airport (code ZAG). Many airlines provide service to this airport although there are few direct flights; it is common to make connections in London, Paris, or Amsterdam for the final leg to Zagreb. When you arrive, our local guides will meet you and take you to our hotel, located in the historic center of the city. Closer to the trip dates, the trip leader will send specific instructions to approved participants for arrival and departure details.

Accommodations and Food

From our welcome dinner on Day 1 in Zagreb to our final breakfast on Day 13, all meals are included. Two lunches will be on your own in a restaurant of your choice. Although these are not group lunches, their cost is included in your trip price. Fruit juice, soft drinks, coffee, and tea are included with meals. Excluded are alcoholic beverages.  

Meals are hearty and nutritious and snacks will be provided periodically. However, if you are a big eater you may want to purchase extra snacks at your expense. Vegetarians can be accommodated on this trip, but vegans cannot be accommodated. Please contact the leader if you have other dietary restrictions.

The drinking water in Croatia is excellent. Please bring water bottles or a water bladder that can hold two liters of water -- these can be filled at the hotels. If you request water in a restaurant you will likely be served bottled water, which is often very expensive and comes in environmentally unfriendly plastic bottles.

Our accommodations will be at comfortable hotels, rustic lodges, and quaint guesthouses. All rooms are double occupancy. We will sleep in two-person rooms with hot showers and friendly Croatian service. Participants travelling alone will be assigned a same-sex roommate. If you are traveling alone and prefer not to have a roommate, a single supplement is available for an additional cost. Please contact the trip leader for details.

All travel during the trip as part of our itinerary is included in the trip cost. We will travel in comfortable late model nine-passenger vans that have seat belts and air conditioning. Due to the size of our group we’ll be using two vans to transport everyone. 

Trip Difficulty

This is an active trip for physically fit people. Activities will include fly-fishing, hiking, and paddling. Beginners are welcome; however, this trip is not a good choice for those who have no experience with these activities. Guests who apply to go on this trip should have a basic level of skill and some recent experience in each of these activities.   

Beginning anglers are welcome. Fly-fishing activities will involve wading or fishing from shore on streams and rivers that may be swift. We will not be using boats or any other device to float on the water. It is a prerequisite of this trip that you have recent experience with wading, that you are able to self-rescue if you have fallen into the water while wearing all your fishing gear, and that your swimming ability is above average. All fishing is catch and release using single flies and barbless hooks, and anglers are allowed to have only one rod on the water.

Hikes will be easy to moderately strenuous, ranging in length from 2 miles to 10 miles. The trails are generally in good condition, but some will have a few steep grades up and down. The trail surfaces will have a mixture of soil, rocks, and roots, making them uneven. The pace will generally be leisurely to moderate to allow time for enjoying the views, taking photos, and so on. Anyone in good physical condition who enjoys hiking in the mountains will enjoy the trip.  Pre-conditioning by hiking similar distances on similar terrain is a pre-requisite for acceptance on the trip.

The kayaking/rafting activities do not require previous experience; however it would be helpful for those with no kayaking experience to get a basic kayaking course before the trip. We will paddle mostly on flat water, but will also experience class 1-3 white water. You must have above-average swimming skills and be comfortable floating, with the aid of a flotation device, for 10 minutes or more.

Equipment and Clothing

Upon approval for the trip, the leader will provide a more comprehensive equipment and clothing list to all participants. 

Please note that fishing licenses are included in the price of the trip. However, you are responsible for bringing your own rods, reels, tackle, and flies. Recommendations for rod weight, tackle selection, and appropriate flies will be provided closer to the start of the trip.  Time is allotted to shop for locally tied flies that may not be available in the USA, but these will be purchased at your own expense.  

References

The Internet has many great sites describing Croatia, its history, and culture, including:

• http://www.hr/croatia
• http://www.infoplease.com/ipa/A0107439.html
• https://www.cia.gov/library/publications/the-world-factbook/geos/hr.html

Many guides for exploring Croatia can also provide useful information on history, wildlife, geology, and the Croatian people:

• Mutic, Anja and Iain Stewart, Lonely Planet Croatia (Country Travel Guide). 2011.
• Kurapovna, Marcia, Shadows on the Mountain: The Allies, the Resistance, and the Rivalries that Doomed WWII Yugoslavia. 2009.
• Tanner, Marcus, Croatia: A Nation Forged in War; Third Edition. 2010.
• Evenden, Karen, A Taste of Croatia. 2007.
• Silber, Laura and Allan Little, Yugoslavia: Death of a Nation.
• Radakovic, Borivoj, Croatian Nights. 2005. A collection of Croatian alternative literature.

Conservation

Sierra Club is an environmentally focused entity. We are concerned about conservation and sustainability of resources, both locally and globally. Our work is accomplished by volunteers and aided by a salaried staff, encouraging grassroots involvement. Our outings seek to empower participants toward environmentally understanding parallel concerns at home and abroad.

The environmental quality of the Croatia is better than that of the European Union (EU) nations because it has a low level of industrial development. The Ministry of Environmental Protection, Physical Planning and Construction (MEPPPC) and the Croatian Environment Agency (AZO) are the leading environmental agencies of the country. Industrial pollution is the major cause of environmental problems in Croatia, as it is in the rest of Eastern Europe.

Croatia protects 6.7 percent of its total land area in parks and other reserves -- a higher percentage than any of the country’s eastern European neighbors, yet much lower than many western European countries. 

Forests make up 32.6 percent of the country’s land area. Croatia’s forests show a very high level of preservation of their natural structure, which is especially valuable and rare compared to forests of other European countries. A threat to the health of the forests is industrial air pollution from the cities, causing acid rain, which is damaging to the forests. Acid rain and the degradation of the forests have a negative impact on the fisheries and on sport fishing.

As we fish, hike, and paddle through these magnificent landscapes we will view Croatia’s balancing act between progress, tourism, and conservation at close quarters.  We’ll be sure to take time to think about and discuss what it all means for Croatia and how it applies to our own environmental challenges at home.

Evacuation and Travel Insurance

The Sierra Club provides evacuation insurance to all participants on international trips. Since this coverage does not include any trip cancellation or interruption insurance, we suggest you purchase another policy separately to provide coverage for your trip and other travel costs. This policy also does not cover pre-trip and post-trip travel. Please note the evacuation insurance provided does not cover claims resulting from any pre-existing condition that occurs within 60 days of the trip departure. If you have specific questions about this exclusion, please review the insurance brochure. For information on purchasing a separate policy, please see our travel insurance page.