Galápagos Islands and Machu Picchu: The Best of Ecuador and Peru

The Trip

From lush rainforests to deserts to lava flows, the volcanic archipelago of the Galápagos has both puzzled and stunned its visitors for more than 400 years. The wildly diverse ecosystems of the Galápagos Islands provide a haven for unique wildlife -- half of their species are found nowhere else. And the magic is, they are approachable by humans. Animals do not run off and birds do not fly away, likely due to a lack of natural predators -- a condition created by the very processes of evolution that first stirred Darwin to speculation in 1835. The Galápagos Islands are among the world’s foremost wildlife preserves, providing us with unique and amazing experiences. Examples include the three-foot-long vegetarian marine iguana, the only known sea-feeding lizard on earth, and the Galápagos tortoise, which grows to six feet in length, weighs up to 600 pounds, and lives for at least 150 years! The archipelago also boasts colorful Sally Lightfoot crabs, sea lions, land iguanas, and lava lizards. A prolific bird population includes frigate birds, penguins, boobies, tropicbirds, mocking birds, doves, albatross, hawks, gulls, cormorants, herons, warblers, flamingos, and the famous Darwin finches.

On this trip we will stay at hotels on two inhabited Galápagos Islands: Santa Cruz and Isabela. Taking an inter-island flight as well as a “fast boat” between islands, we will have an opportunity to spot sea life such as sea birds, dolphins, sea turtles, rays, sea lions -- maybe even a whale. We will have the opportunity to snorkel to get a close look at the marine life. On land, we will observe the sere landscape with its fascinating geologic features, stroll in tropical rainforests, visit an active volcano (sporting the world’s second-largest caldera), do some hiking or birding, or loll around at the beach. Our days will be filled with activity, but you'll also have the freedom to just relax. An English-speaking certified Galápagos naturalist will accompany us and help us understand the intricate relationships between plants, animals, people, and their environment.

Santa Cruz Island is the second-largest in the Galápagos. Wild Galápagos Tortoises roam free; flycatchers, Darwin's finches, and owls fill the forests; sea lions, marine iguanas, pelicans, and boobies abound. This island also has the largest human population within the island chain. We’ll spend two nights in Puerto Ayora, the largest town in the Galápagos.

Isabela Island is the largest in the Galápagos Archipelago. It was formed by the merger of six shield volcanoes, including Volcán Sierra Negra, which we will visit. We’ll spend three nights close to the beach in the small town of Puerto Villamil, which will serve as our base for hiking and snorkeling adventures. Isabela is home to more wild tortoises than all the other islands.

We will also visit Machu Picchu in Peru! The site of an ancient Inca city high in the Andes of Peru, Machu Picchu is located over 8,000 feet above sea level. This UNESCO World Heritage site is often referred to as "The Lost City of the Incas." It's one of the most familiar symbols of the Incan Empire and also one of the most famous and spectacular sets of ruins in the world. A visit to Peru would not be complete without visiting this treasure!

It's no wonder Machu Picchu is Peru's most-visited site. Dating to the mid-1400s, it's a marvel of mortar-free limestone architecture perched on a high plateau deep in the Amazonian jungle. This citadel is considered one of the most extraordinary examples of landscape architecture in the world.

We also travel from Cusco (elevation 11,200 feet) down through the Sacred Valley to visit several other Inca sites such as Qorikancha, Sacsayhuaman, Pisac, and Ollantaytambo. These sites will give you better understanding of the incredible Inca culture and engineering accomplishments before our arrival in Machu Picchu.

Day 1: Arrive in Guayaquil, a modern city and the major seaport of Ecuador. Our overnight accommodation is included. Activities and meals are not included. 

Day 2: Today is devoted to exploring some highlights of Guayaquil, including a visit to a cocoa plantation and factory where we will learn about this indigenous plant, and why Ecuador has world-class chocolate. We’ll return to the hotel at day’s end before heading off to a local restaurant together for dinner.

Day 3: On to the Galapagos Islands! The flight to and from the Galapagos Islands is included in the trip price. Tickets will be issued at the Guayaquil Airport before we leave for the islands. At the airport on Isla Baltra we will meet our Certified Galapagos Guide and take a short inter-island flight to Isle Isabela, where we’ll transfer to our hotel in Puerto Villamil (population about 2,300), situated along a stunning expanse of white beaches. We’ll then have time to explore the town, perhaps walking the beach and exploring a boardwalk through wetlands full of birds and marine iguanas. Note: There is a baggage limit of 10 kg (22 lb) on the intra-island flight, but we can leave any excess baggage at our hotel in Guayaquil, which we return to on Day 8.

Day 4: Today we visit Volcán Sierra Negra, one of the six volcanoes that form Isla Isabela. We start at the Ranger Station, about a 45-minute drive (3,000 feet above sea level), and gain about 700 feet during our hike. At Volcán Sierra Negra (elevation 3,688 feet), we will view the world’s second-largest caldera -- 6 miles wide and 300 feet deep. We walk along the rim for a while, and on a clear day, you will have spectacular views, including of the fumaroles off in the distance. After a delightful lunch set in a lush garden on the slopes of the volcano, we will return to Puerto Villamil to relax or hang out at the beach, enjoy the views and wildlife, and have dinner.

Day 5: This morning visit Cabo Rosa, one of the best places to snorkel in the Galápagos. There are lava formations, lava bridges, and lava tunnels in the water that provide for a marine paradise in these crystal-clear waters. This is a good spot to look for the unique flightless cormorant, golden rays, sea lions, sea turtles, and penguins. As time allows, we'll further explore Puerto Villamil to visit the lovely gardens at the Giant Turtle Center (Analdo Tupiza), where tortoises are protected in their first years of life before being released in the wild. This is our last night on Isabela.

Day 6: We’ll return by boat to Santa Cruz Island this morning, where we’ll drive to the highlands on Santa Cruz Island to view and photograph giant tortoises! We’ll enjoy a lunch in the highlands, then return to Puerto Ayora. There we may visit the Charles Darwin Research Station as time allows or walk to Tortuga Bay, one of the most stunning beaches in the Galapagos, accessible only by foot and home to hundreds of prehistoric-looking marine iguanas, blue-footed boobies and pelicans. We’ll even see turtle nesting sites. Dinner will be at a local restaurant.

Day 7: Today we have a boat excursion to North Seymore Island. We’ll enjoy a relaxing lunch on this larger boat and enjoy a walk where we’ll see abundant birds and other native species at close range, typically including blue-footed boobies, frigate birds, and land iguanas. Later in the day we will stop at the beach for another chance to snorkel in the clear waters.

Day 8: After breakfast at our hotel, we’ll bid farewell to our Island Paradise, and head to Peru. Today will be a travel day.  We’ll fly to Guayaquil where we may have a few hours to spend outside of the airport to visit the town and/or day use of a hotel before taking an evening flight to Lima, where we will stay the night. Lunch is not included, but you will be able to purchase food at the airport pre-flight. We’ll have an informal dinner in Guayaquil. Please note these airline schedules are subject to change. This flight and the flight tomorrow to Cuzco, are included in the trip price.

Day 9: On the move again! We will take an early flight out of Lima to the ancient city of Cusco Peru, the former Inca capital.We'll arrive in the late afternoon and enjoy a quiet dinner at our hotel in this beautiful red-tile-roofed city, which was founded in the 12th-century by Manco Capac, the original Inca who was considered to be a child of the sun god himself. For almost 400 years, Cusco served as the flourishing capital of the Inca Empire and still retains its centuries-old appeal with numerous sections of original Inca stonework visible in the streets and buildings.  

Day 10: We have a morning departure for an amazing bus tour to the nearby Sacred Valley with its endless views and stunning archaeology. We visit Sacsayhuaman (also affectionately called “Sexy Woman”) and the Indian Market of Pisac, which attracts people from remote communities dressed in colorful, traditional attire. This region (and the Pisac market) is well-known for high quality local crafts, including hand-knit wools, ceramics, leather goods, and jewelry. After a stop for lunch we continue by bus to Ollantaytambo, which features an extensive archaeological site on the imposing hillside overlooking the town, containing structures such as the Temple of the Sun and the Royal Hall.

From here we take a train (included) from Ollantaytambo to Aguas Calientes (also known as Machu Picchu Pueblo) where we will have dinner and spend two nights.

Day 11: A day in Machu Picchu! This will be a highlight. In the morning, we will have a relaxed schedule. We will have an hour tour of the Rock Sculptures along the Aguas Calientes River, which flows into the Urubamba River. Our tour to Machu Picchu is in the afternoon, as mornings have a higher chance of overcast weather. We take a bus to the ruins, and start with a buffet lunch at a hotel there. Our knowledgeable guide will then give us a tour of the ruins, explaining the current theories regarding the purpose and significance of the city. After the tour you will have time to wander in this magnificent and sacred place -- maybe hiking to the Gate of the Sun (Intipunku) or the Inca Bridge. Many just take photos at their leisure of the ruins or the llamas that frequent this area. You can stay until 5 p.m. to enjoy the late-afternoon light on these unforgettable ruins, or you can opt to return to the hotel, enjoy the local hot springs baths (not included), or visit the markets. We have dinner tonight at our hotel. 

Day 12: After breakfast, the morning is unstructured, but included in the trip price is an unguided second visit to Machu Picchu, where you’ll have the chance to hike to the Sun Gate or the Inca Bridge, explore further, or just relax in this amazing place. Alternatively, you may want to buy some souvenirs at the many local shops, visit the Butterfly Farm, take an extended hike, or just relax. Lunch is at a local restaurant, then we take the afternoon train back to Cusco. We’ll enjoy our farewell dinner at the hotel.

Day 13: After breakfast we’ll enjoy a walking tour of Cusco to see Qorikancha and the cathedral. We’ll return to the hotel, enjoy our last lunch together, and say our farewells. You'll have the options of flying home, staying longer in Cusco, or visiting other places in beautiful Peru. We will say goodbye to our new Peruvian friends and reflect on the grand finale of our visit to Machu Picchu. Transfers will be provided to the airport on this day only.

Important notes:

Occasionally, changes may occur in the trip -- either in advance or during the trip. Please be aware that we will make every attempt to stay within this itinerary. However, we may need to make changes for a variety of reasons (weather, equipment, Galápagos National Park Services, Peru Park Services, or other conditions, circumstances, or situations) to assure the safety and enjoyment of the entire group. Please be flexible and respect the decision of your trip leader. The safety of the group is our number one concern.

While wildlife on the Galápagos Islands is tremendous, we cannot guarantee that you will see all species listed as examples.

Your passport must be valid for at least six months from the starting date of this trip, and have at least six consecutive blank pages. If you don't have a passport, apply for one as soon as possible.

Getting There

Please note, the trip starts in Guayaquil, Ecuador (GYE) and ends in Cusco, Peru (CUZ). You need to arrive in Guayaquil, Ecuador on or before day one. Make your airline reservations with different start and end cities. Many airlines fly to both cities and allow “round trip” or "open leg" excursions into one city and out of the other. Contact the leader before making your final arrangements.

The Guayaquil-Galápagos Islands / Galápagos Islands-Guayaquil flights, and intra-island flight to Isabela are included in the trip price. Tickets for these flights will be issued to you at the airport when we leave for the islands. The one-way flight is also included from Guayaquil to Cusco.

The leader will send additional information to registered participants. Please do not make non-refundable travel arrangements until notified to do so by the trip leader.

Accommodations and Food

Although this is not a luxury trip, we will stay in charming, locally owned, modern hotels. Rooms are double-occupancy; if you come alone we'll give you a same-gender roommate.

We'll travel by a combination of comfortable buses, trains, and flights, plus boat trips as required in the Galápagos.

The food will be delicious -- a mix of local and continental dishes, with a variety of tropical fruits and vegetables. Vegetarians are welcome and can easily be accommodated. All meals (starting with lunch on day 1 and ending with breakfast on day 13) and lodgings are provided.

Trip Difficulty

This trip is suitable for people who are in good health, get regular exercise, enjoy nature, and have a good-humored approach to traveling abroad -- where things might not go as predictably as they do at home. Our trip is not strenuous, and can be considered leisurely-to-moderate most days. In the Galápagos, elevation gains and losses on most hikes are minimal and the pace is slow since we often stop to observe wildlife or listen to our guide explain the history, geology, or ecology. In Cusco and Machu Picchu the higher elevation typically affects people, and the amount of planned activity is less. 

The expression “OSHA hasn’t been here” applies. As you know, Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) regulates safety standards in America. There is no OSHA in Ecuador or Peru. Even a walk in a progressive, busy city like Guayaquil or Cusco can be an adventure in itself. The streets are uneven and sometimes hilly. You will find sidewalks with unmarked holes, exposed wires and pipes that often will trip residents as well as visitors. Steep stairs may not have hand rails. For the Galápagos Islands, the trails are typically uneven, hilly, and rocky. Some are on loose lava. In Peru, walking around the ruins is typically steep and uneven. 

You must have the ability and agility to handle transporting your own luggage to and from buses, trains, airports, and boats. Consider this an incentive to pack light! You will be required to maneuver yourself and your gear sufficiently to board shuttle boats. You must be steady and sure-footed enough to negotiate the various transitions and walks this trip relies upon.

While we will stop often for viewing wildlife (Galápagos) or discussing the ruins (Peru), you will need to be able to keep up a walking pace that keeps the group together.

Equipment and Clothing

In the Galápagos, we have opportunities for snorkeling. Snorkeling gear is provided (mask, fins, snorkel). To assure the best fit, you can bring your own. Some type of wet suit will help with comfort and warmth while snorkeling. A wet suit can be rented but is not included in the trip cost. 

Bring general casual clothing for warm weather hiking and boating in the Galápagos. In Peru, temperatures are typically cooler, and having several clothing layers is best. Rain gear is required as the mountainous regions typically get changeable weather, with showers likely.

October is generally a wonderful time to visit both Ecuador and Peru! We can expect Ecuador temperatures to range from 65-80; and in Peru, from 50-70. Because of its high elevation, Cusco is one of those places where it is typically warm in the sun and cool in the shade. Many days Cusco is partly cloudy. Machu Picchu can be cloudy in the morning, but sunny in the afternoon. Nights in both Ecuador and Peru can get cool and you will want a sweater or jacket. And while it is not the rainy season, rain can fall at any time (especially the mountainous areas of Peru) and will not restrict our movements or our enjoyment of the activities. It is always a good idea to carry rain gear.

No special equipment is required. However, binoculars and a camera are highly recommended.

The leader will carry a first aid kit for emergency use. You should provide your own personal first aid kit for minor needs such as bandages, moleskin, insect repellent, sunscreen, etc. You should consult your physician for recommended current immunizations.

Your leader will provide a comprehensive packing list well in advance of the trip. The leader is available to answer any questions you may have about gear.

References

Books:

Galápagos:

• Angemeyer, Johanna, My Father's Island: A Galápagos Quest. About one of the German families that moved to the Galápagos. 
• Weiner, Jonathan, The Beak of the Finch: A Story of Evolution in Our Time. Good book that has modern research. 
• D'Orso, Michael, Plundering Paradise. This book discusses how the Galápagos changed over time, starting with the ancient shops stopping by to collect tortoises for meat on their voyage.
• Moore, Yui DeRoy, Galápagos Islands Lost in Time. Penguin Books.
• Brower, K., Galápagos: The Flow of Wildness. Sierra Club/Ballantine Books.
• Darwin, Charles, The Voyage of the Beagle. Doubleday Books.
• Darwin, Charles, On the Origin of Species by Means of Natural Selection. Provides an excellent understanding of the research done to establish Darwin’s theory of “survival of the fittest” or Natural Selection.
• Harris, M., Field Guide to the Birds of Galápagos. Taplinger Books.
• Schichor, Michael, Michael's Guide to Ecuador, Colombia, Venezuela. Inbal Travel Ltd.
• Rachowiecki, Rob, Ecuador and the Galápagos Islands: A Travel Survival Kit. Lonely Planet Books.
• Jackson, Michael H., Galápagos: A Natural History Guide. This is the best general guide to the history, geology, and plant and animal life of the islands.
• Melville, Herman, The Piazza Tales. Darwin wasn't the only one to find inspiration in the Galápagos. During the whaling era, Herman Melville made landfall here, and he perpetuated the sailor's nickname: Los Encantadas or "The Enchanted Islands." Melville delivers a metaphor-rich, almost hallucinatory account of the archipelago's history, filled with misstatements, speculation, and poetry.
• Wittmer, Margret, Floreana: A Woman's Pilgrimage to the Galápagos. Some interesting stories about “the baroness” and the tales of her life on the islands.
• Stewart, Paul D., Galápagos: The Islands That Changed the World. Yale Press, 2007.
• Fitter, Julian, Daniel Fitter, and David Hosking, Wildlife of the Galápagos. 2015. This is a great identification guide and recorder for wildlife, birds and flora seen in the islands.

Machu Picchu: 

• Wright, R. & Zegarra, A., The Machu Picchu Guidebook: A Self-Guided Tour. 2004. This is a good guide to the ruins of Machu Picchu and handy to have while at Machu Picchu.
• Reinhard, J., Machu Picchu: Exploring an Ancient Sacred Center, 4th ed. 2007. This guide is more focused on the cosmology of the Inca and Machu Picchu.
• Hemming, J., Monuments of the Incas, revised ed. 2010. A large-format coffee table-style book with beautiful black and white photographs and detailed descriptions of the archaeological sites we will see and many other Incan sites.
• Adams, M., Turn Right at Machu Picchu: Rediscovering the Lost City One Step at a Time. 2012. A serious and humorous tale of adventure and archaeology.
• Bingham, H., The Lost City of the Incas, revised ed. 2003. A reprint of Bingham’s original account of his "discovery" of Machu Picchu with archival photographs. The book was originally published in 1948.
• Hemming, J., The Conquest of the Incas. 2003. An exhaustive and authoritative account of the Spanish conquest of Peru and the Incas.
• MacQuarrie, K., The Last Days of the Incas. 2008. Another perspective on the fall of the Incas. This book also discusses modern scholars evolving interpretations of Inca remains.
• MacQuarrie, K., Life and Death in the Andes. 2015. This book includes a number of short stories providing insight into the controversies surrounding Hiram Bingham's "discovery" of Machu Picchu, the rediscovered ancient weaving skills in the areas near Cusco and Machu Picchu, and Darwin's work in the Galápagos. 
• Reinhard, J., Inca Rituals and Sacred Mountains: A Study of the World's Highest Archaeological Sites. 2010. An account of Reinhard’s recent discovery of incredibly well-preserved teenage mummies from an ancient Incan ritual that were found at the top of the Andes and are now on display in Salta, Argentina.
• Reinhard, J., The Ice Maiden: Inca Mummies, Mountain Gods, and Sacred Sites in the Andes. 2006. This is a description of Reinhard’s first stunning discovery of a well-preserved young woman from an ancient Incan rite that was found near the top of a Peruvian volcanic mountain and is now on display in Arequipa, Peru.
• Jenkins, D., The Rough Guide to Peru. 2012. One of many guides to Peru. The trip leader personally likes the Rough Guide series because they have a section called “Contexts” that gives a lucid overview of the history, economics, and politics of the country.
• Stewart, A., Inca Trail, Cusco & Machu Picchu, 5th ed. 2013. This Trailblazer book has descriptions of several treks in Peru.
• D. & Beletsky, Peru: Travelers’ Wildlife Guides. Pearson, 2008. A fine introduction to the ecology and wildlife of Peru, including a section on birds.
• Walker, B., The Birds of Machu Picchu and the Cusco Region: A Field Guide. 2005. There are about 1,000 species of birds in the areas we will visit. This is an introductory guide to the more common birds of the region.

Movies:

• The Incas Remembered (1986)
• The Great Inca Rebellion (2007) – National Geographic
• Ghosts of Machu Picchu (2009) – Nova (PBS)
• Incan Engineering – Time Scanners: Machu Picchu – PBS
• Galapagos, the Islands that Changed the World (2006) – BBC Documentary 3-part Series

Conservation

The Sierra Club is an environmentally focused entity. We are concerned about conservation and sustainability of resources, both locally and globally. Our work is accomplished by volunteers and aided by a salaried staff, encouraging grassroots involvement. Our outings seek to empower participants toward environmentally understanding parallel concerns at home and abroad.

Conservation problems exist even though the Galápagos National Park is protected and monitored by the Ecuadorian government. Buccaneers captured tens of thousands of tortoises for fresh meat on their voyages, bringing the population to the edge of extinction. Fur seals were exploited and nearly driven to extinction as well. Currently, a very serious problem is the killing of sharks for the ever-popular shark-fin soup in Asia.

The Galápagos has an unfortunate legacy of introduced animals and plants detrimental to the native creatures. Goats compete with native tortoises and iguanas, making food less available and destroying native vegetation. Predators, such as rats, dogs and cats have seriously depleted native populations by killing native animals and raiding the nests of the birds, iguanas, and tortoises. Introduced plants have spread, particularly in the moist highlands, and compete with native vegetation. People have hunted large numbers of animals in the past and have cleared great areas of native vegetation for agriculture and ranching purposes. The Darwin Research Center has been actively trying to boost the threatened populations of endangered species. Tortoise nests are protected, and eggs and young are brought to Santa Cruz to be raised in captivity, released once they are no longer susceptible to predation.

As for Peru, tourism in the area we'll visit has been a mixed blessing, especially with the increase in popularity of Machu Picchu. On one hand, it accounts for much of the economy and provides jobs for many of the local people. However, it has also led to widespread exploitation of labor and the environment, including a troublesome trash disposal problem on popular trekking routes and damage to the Machu Picchu ruins. We will discuss how tourism can be used as a source for economic and community development, and the steps that some organizations are taking to promote more ecologically friendly tourism.