Grizzlies, Glaciers, and Climate Change: Dayhiking in Glacier National Park, Montana

The Trip

In 1901, John Muir, co-founder of the Sierra Club, described Glacier National Park as "... the best care-killing scenery on the continent -- beautiful lakes derived straight from glaciers, lofty mountains steeped in lovely nemophila-blue skies and clad with forests and glaciers, mossy, ferny waterfalls in their hollows, nameless and numberless, and meadowy gardens abounding in the best of everything ..."

Born of sediment deposited into an ancient sea, movement deep within the earth, and glacial carving, Glacier National Park encompasses 1.2 million acres. The park is home to several species of wildlife and fauna and offers 700 miles of hiking trails. In the mid-1800s, 150 glaciers existed in the park. Today, due to changing climate and precipitation, only 24 remain.

The trails selected for our journey offer an introduction to various park ecosystems, the potential for spotting wildlife and an abundant variety of plant life, and an up-close view of a glacier. Our hikes will also take us to the traditional lands of the Blackfeet Nation on the east side of the park, and the Confederated Salish and Kootenai Tribes of the Flathead Nation, and the Pend d’Oreille on the more forested west side of the park. We’ll travel along moderate/strenuous, well-maintained trails up to an elevation of 8,100 feet. As we go, we’ll be accompanied by knowledgeable Glacier Institute professionals who will educate us about our surroundings. You will definitely want to come with an inquisitive mind and strong hiking legs. In order to maximize our learning opportunities, and to comply with park regulations, we will break up into two groups with two hiking options offered most days. After a day of spectacular scenery, combined with learning, we'll return to Field Camp to enjoy a hot shower and a Glacier Institute staff-prepared dinner. Afterward, we'll broaden our knowledge through evening programs or a campfire chat.

This trip often fills up. If you find it full, we encourage you to join the wait list. If the wait list has enough people, we might be able to add an additional departure.

The routes and itinerary described below should be taken as a general plan. Other factors, such as weather and trail closures, may require the leaders to make adjustments. Please plan to be flexible and bring a good sense of humor to the trip — you can be assured of having a memorable and satisfying adventure!

Day 1: Those who fly into Glacier Park International Airport in Kalispell, Montana will be picked up by Glacier Institute staff between 3:00 and 4:00 p.m. and transported to Field Camp. Those driving should plan to arrive at the Glacier Institute Field Camp between 3:00 and 4:00 p.m. There will be some time for you to settle into your cabin, and then we’ll plan on having a meet-and-greet happy hour followed by our first dinner. The evening will be spent discussing the week’s activities and familiarizing ourselves with the camp.

Day 2: We’ll start our adventure on two of the most popular trails in the Park. After driving the historic Going-to-the-Sun Road, and passing the Weeping Wall, we’ll arrive at Logan Pass. Our first hike option of the week is a 6-mile in/out hike to Hidden Lake. Behind the visitor center, we’ll begin our 540-foot ascent on a paved trail, which will quickly change to a raised boardwalk, and eventually dirt. We’ll walk through the Hanging Gardens, so called due to the density of wildflowers (but sometimes covered in snow), looking for marmots, cascading water, and geological evidence of an ancient seabed. As we approach the lake’s overlook, rich in subalpine vegetation, there is a possibility that mountain goats will be gazing our direction. As we continue on, we’ll descend 800 feet on a fairly steep switchback trail to the shore of the glacially carved, crystal clear Hidden Lake.

The Highline Trail to Haystack Butte, an in/out hike of 7.2 miles, offers panoramic views of rugged mountain scenery. Passing the Continental Divide sign, we’ll pass through an open area of lush green, looking for Columbian ground squirrels and bachelor bighorn sheep. A short section of the trail, approximately 3/10 of a mile, is a narrow ledge carved into the rock and has a 100-foot dropoff in places to the road below. The Park has installed a cable to hold onto if necessary. After that bit of trail excitement, we’ll hike along the side of sloped mountains, continuing our amazing views, looking at colorful wildflowers and perhaps sharing the trail with local Park wildlife. Eventually, the rolling trail will reach a large field of boulders with a mysterious swirl pattern. After stopping to examine the rocks and listen/look for pica, we’ll follow the switchbacks up, gaining another 300 feet to an even more incredible view.

Day 3: Today’s hike options will be either Huckleberry Mountain or Firebrand Pass. Huckleberry Mountain is 12 miles round-trip with 2,700 feet of elevation gain. There is a manned fire tower on top. The trail begins in a lush forest and climbs steadily, but never steeply, to the top. The last half-mile or so is along a ridgeline. The views from the top are impressive, looking into the north fork area of the park and the Livingston Mountain Range. There is a fair chance for bear sightings along this trail, and for huckleberry picking.

Firebrand Pass is 9.6 miles round-trip with 2,200 feet of elevation gain. The hike will pass through a riparian area, an aspen grove, a pine forest, and numerous flower-filled meadows, before climbing above timberline. This trail is in one of the least traveled areas of the park. Once at the pass, there will be some stunning mountain views of the park’s southern peaks.

Day 4: By now you may recognize that a choice between two trail options is difficult in such a scenic Park. And today is no easier. In the Many Glacier area, prime habitat for bears, the trail to Grinnell Glacier is 11.5 miles round-trip, with a 1,500-foot elevation gain, and Ptarmigan Tunnel is 10.7 miles with a 2,300-foot gain.

The first few miles on the trail to Grinnell Glacier roll gently through a forest and past two mountain lakes. As we begin our ascent, stair-stepping under a waterfall, we'll pass colorful rock strata with a view of a turquoise lake below. The higher we climb the more spectacular our view will become. You’ll want to take time to look for bighorn sheep climbing on rocks or laying in a meadow. Our last push will be over a rocky moraine to Upper Grinnell Lake, a milky blue lake formed by the melting glacier. Up until now, we have been learning about climate change and its impact upon glaciers through our on-trail education. Now is our opportunity to see a glacier, stromatolites, and more as we explore this area.

The Ptarmigan Tunnel trail ascends the Wilbur Creek Valley, with views of Mt. Grinnel, Swiftcurrent Mountain and Mt. Wilbur. After viewing Ptarmigan Falls, we’ll begin a steeper ascent, passing an area that can be rich in huckleberries, a grizzly favorite. We’ll eventually have a view of the Ptarmigan Wall, an arête, rising 1,700 feet above the trail, and cascading falls as we approach colorful Ptarmigan Lake and the switchbacks leading to the tunnel above it. The last push to the historic tunnel, built in the 1930s by the Civilian Conservation Corps, is well worth the effort. There are spectacular views from both ends of the tunnel to include Old Sun Glacier, Belly River, and Elizabeth Lake.

Day 5: The first trail option, Cobalt Lake, is 11.4 miles round-trip, with an elevation gain of 1,400 feet. The trail follows the south shore of Two Medicine Lake, eventually passing beaver ponds, which we’ll be checking out for resident moose. Further along the trail, after having crossed a suspended bridge, we’ll take a few minutes at Rockwell Falls for photo opportunities and looking for dippers (the Audubon, not people, type), before ascending a series of switchbacks with magnificent views to the blue-green Cobalt Lake.

The second hike option is the Upper Two Medicine Lake Trail. This hike is 10 miles round-trip with 500 feet of elevation gain. Beginning with a relatively level walk along the north shore of Two Medicine Lake, the trail gradually climbs to Upper Two Medicine Lake, a stunning alpine lake nestled in a cirque. Along the way, we will take a short detour hike to Twin Falls.

Day 6: Today’s trail options afford wildflower and photographic views. The trails to Piegan Pass (9.2 miles, with a 1,700-foot elevation gain) and Siyeh Pass (9 miles with a 2,200-foot elevation gain) is shared for a short distance before it splits. The beginning of the trail briefly follows Siyeh Creek and then enters a forest of subalpine fir and spruce. As the forest begins to thin out, we’ll arrive at the Siyeh Pass trail junction. For those adventurers traveling to Siyeh Pass, the right fork will lead to Preston Park, a glacially carved valley with an expansive alpine meadow carpeted with wildflowers, dotted with groupings of pine trees, and surrounded by towering peaks. After crossing the Park, we again ascend up, about 700 feet, navigating a series of switchbacks on a rocky talus slope that leads to a false summit. From there, after catching our breath and looking for large wildlife, it's another 200 feet up to the pass where we’ll find a heap of ritualist hiker rocks and rewarding views into St. Mary’s Valley.

The left fork leads to Piegan Pass. After emerging above the tree line, we'll traverse a barren, rocky area on the slope of Mt. Siyeh, with views of Jackson Glacier and Blackfoot Glacier to the south, and Piegan Glacier to the west. As we continue on, we’ll scan the area for mountain goats and ptarmigan. After reaching our final destination, the saddle between Piegan Mountain and Cataract Mountain, we’ll have our cameras ready for the Garden Wall, the vertical face of Mt. Gould and Many Glacier Valley.

Day 7: The trip will end after breakfast. For those flying out of Glacier Park International Airport, Institute staff will provide transportation to the airport. Please don't schedule your flights to depart before noon.

Getting There

The Glacier Institute Field Camp is located just inside the West Entrance to Glacier National Park. The nearest airport is in Kalispell, Montana, about 40 minutes from the Field Camp. If you fly into Kalispell, you will be picked up at the airport by Glacier Institute staff between 3:00 and 4:00 p.m.

If you find it difficult to make airline reservations into Kalispell, an alternative is to fly into Missoula, which is about three hours from the park. If you fly into Missoula, you will need to rent a car for the drive up to the park. If several people choose this option, we can help facilitate car-sharing. Note that airfare and car rental are not included in the trip price.

On past trips, some participants have traveled to the Park by Amtrak. The Empire Builder line, which leaves from Chicago, makes a stop at West Glacier.

The trip will be van supported. As part of the trip fee, all ground transportation is provided from our Field Camp to the trailheads.

Please do not make travel arrangements until the leader has confirmed you as a trip member.

Accommodations and Food

The Glacier Institute Field Camp is located on a bluff overlooking the Middle Fork of the Flathead River. It includes five sleeping cabins, a common bathhouse, community kitchen, a classroom, and a library. Although each sleeping cabin has four or five twin beds with a bottom sheet, blanket, and pillow, you will still need to bring a sleeping bag or other personal bedding. The cabins have electricity and a portable electric heater, but no running water, TV, or telephone. The common bathhouse has flush toilets, hot showers, and sinks. All meals will be provided by the Glacier Institute staff, and lunch fixings are available for each participant to prepare their own lunch to eat on the trail. Vegetarians can be accommodated, however, gluten-free and vegan meals cannot be provided. For more information about the camp and the Glacier Institute, please visit their website at www.glacierinstitute.org.

Trip Difficulty

Our hikes will range from eight to 12 miles in length. The hikes will be moderate to moderately strenuous with elevation gains of 500-2,700 feet. All of the hikes are on maintained trails and will take place between elevations of 5,000 to 8,100 feet. In order to comfortably complete the hikes on this trip, all hikers should be participating in regular aerobic activity four to five days a week for a minimum of 30 minutes duration -- jogging, bike riding, or using the aerobic equipment at your local gym are just some examples. To help build your endurance, you should begin weekly hikes a few months before the trip of eight to 10 miles that gain at least 1,500-2,000 feet of elevation.

By the time of the trip you should be able to comfortably maintain an average hiking speed of 2 to 2.5 m.p.h. for 6 to 8 hours -- the key word being "comfortably." If you have participated in other Sierra Club trips you may be used to hiking at your own pace. However, because of the small, but real potential for grizzly bear encounters while hiking in Glacier National Park, it is not safe for people to become separated from the group. Therefore, it is imperative that you are able to maintain the hiking pace recommended by the leader.

Equipment and Clothing

In late July/early August, daytime temperatures can range from the 70s to 80s, dropping to the 40s at night. Although it is traditionally a dry month, there is still the possibility of rain, hail, snow, and strong winds, so be prepared for a variety of conditions. Pack clothes that can be layered and hiking boots or shoes that are already broken-in. At least two months before the trip, you will receive a list of required/recommended clothing and equipment.

References

Hiking:

• Hiking Glacier and Waterton Lakes National Park (a Falcon Guide). 

Map:

• National Geographic Trails Illustrated map of Glacier/Waterton Lakes National Park

Websites:

• Glacier Institute: www.glacierinstitute.org
• The park website: www.nps.gov/glac

Conservation

The Sierra Club is an environmentally focused entity. We are concerned about conservation and the sustainability of resources, both locally and globally. Our work is accomplished by volunteers and aided by a salaried staff, encouraging grassroots involvement. Our outings seek to empower participants toward greater understanding, advocacy, and participation in the goals of the Club.

Glacier National Park was established in 1910 and encompasses more than one-million acres of wilderness, with over 700 miles of trails. The park, one of the crown jewels of the national park system, is a land carved by the action of glaciers, and contains striking barren peaks, lush forest, alpine meadows, numerous lakes, abundant wildlife, and of course, glaciers. Designated a World Heritage site in 1995 by the United Nations Educational, Scientific, and Cultural Organization (UNESCO), Glacier National Park is threatened by climate change with some experts predicting the disappearance of the park’s namesake by 2030. We will discuss this topic in depth, as well as learn about grizzly bears, geology, and local flora of the park with the help of our experts from the Glacier Institute.

Sierra Club National Outings is an equal-opportunity provider and when applicable will operate under permits obtained from U.S. federal land agencies.