Hiking Japan's Ancient Buddhist Trails, Rainforests, and Volcanoes, Kyushu

The Trip

Join us for an unforgettable trek through widely varied terrain, in a much less-traveled part of Japan. Our hikes will take us through verdant forests, alongside volcanic mountains, and into breathtaking valleys. We begin our journey by hiking ancient forested Buddhist pilgrim paths on the Kunisaki Peninsula in Kyushu, Japan's southernmost large island. Mine-iri, a monk’s practice of traversing sacred mountain paths in prayer, has been part of the religious life of Kunisaki since the ninth-century. Even today, monks occasionally make use of these trails. At times we'll put on our gloves, so we can use placed chains as climbing aids up steep volcanic ridges, before invariably heading down again into lush green valleys. The trails lead us to temples and shrines along the way.

We'll also encounter some of Kyushu's volcanoes. Just south of Kunisaki Peninsula, near the resort town of Yufuin, we will ascend Mount Yufu. Farther south, at Aso-Kuju National Park, we will hike very near Mount Aso, where we hope to get a glimpse of this active volcano. While these fantastic volcanic formations are breathtaking in their own right, they provide stunning views of the surrounding forests, too.

On other parts of our journey we'll take ferry rides to adjoining islands. First, we'll enjoy a brief overnight visit to the small island of Hime-shima. We'll stay in a family-owned ryokan (small inn), where we'll enjoy fresh seafood and a sunset over the beach. The next morning, we'll hike up to a small shoreline vista with spectacular views. We also visit a much larger island, taking a two-hour journey south of Kyushu on a high-speed jet foil. Thickly forested Yakushima Island juts abruptly out of the ocean to a height of more than 6,000 feet. We'll stay two nights there, time enough to explore the island's historic old cedar forests, high moorlands, and grasslands. The entirety of the island is a designated World Heritage site.

Each day we will end our walks by soaking in thermal hot springs ("onsen") or heated tubs. Most nights are spent in small family-owned Japanese ryokans, where we have our evening meals prepared fresh on site. Don’t worry about bringing a lot of extra clothing for evening wear. Yukata, or Japanese robes, and the ubiquitous slippers are provided at almost all of our stays. 

We also plan to visit a samurai village and a few other cultural sites. Time permitting, we will visit a brewing company, where we will learn the fine art of brewing sake and, if you wish, sample some of the final product. You will learn a lot about Japan's geography, customs and history during this trip. Come prepared for vigorous hiking and a good introduction to Japanese culture!

Day 1: Fukuoka. Arrive in Fukuoka and enjoy a night at a hotel near the Hakata Train Station. Hotel information and directions will be provided by the leader.

Day 2: Fukuoka. We will meet in our hotel lobby after breakfast to get acquainted. From there we will walk to the Hakata station and take a train for an hour and 40 minutes to Oita City, located on the Kunisaki Peninsula. We will then visit Usa Jingu, an ancient and impressive Shinto shrine. This shrine was instrumental in the development of the distinct Buddhism of the Kunisaki Peninsula. Dinner at tonight’s lodging is a Japanese feast of locally caught fish and home-grown farm produce. Dinner provided.

Day 3: Futago-ji - Matama Onsen. After breakfast at our accommodation, a minibus will take us on a 25-minute journey to our start point at the heart of the Kunisaki Peninsula. Luggage, aside from daypacks, is forwarded on to our evening's lodgings for us. Very soon after the start of the trek, we find ourselves in a verdant forest and remote countryside. We visit some secluded temples and have lunch in a small, local restaurant. The afternoon's trek includes a short but stiff climb, using a chain assist in one area, up to a view of Mumyo-bashi: a bridge perched spectacularly between two crags. The final descent brings us down to road level and our last temple for the day. From here it is a 45-minute walk to a well-deserved thermal hot spring and our lodgings for the night. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner provided. Total walking time: six hours. Total distance: approximately 7.4 miles.

Day 4: Matama Onsen - Hime-shima. Our luggage is sent on by taxi, while we travel a short distance by minibus to the beginning of Nakayama Senkyo, a lower elevation ridge climb. Near the top on narrow ridges we will see some spectacular views over the surrounding countryside and the Seto Inland Sea. We'll have a delicious bento box lunch. After lunch we wind our way up over a pass using a chain to assist us in a steep area before descending to an idyllic hamlet. We then meet our transport, which takes us to nearby Imi Port. Hime-shima, a small island, is 20 minutes away by ferry. From there we have a short walk from the quay to our inn for the night. The island is a delightful place, with the main settlement a maze of narrow streets, houses, and little vegetable plots. Our dinner is focused on locally caught fresh fish from some of the best fishing grounds within the Seto Inland Sea. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner provided. Total walking time: five hours. Total distance: approximately. 4.9 miles.

Day 5: Hime-shima – Monjusen-ji. We return by ferry to Imi Port after a short but beautiful visit to a local temple. After sending our luggage on, we have lunch at a local restaurant before catching a bus/taxi to the start of today's trek. We soon pass through the atmospheric grounds of a long-gone temple. Little is left of this once powerful institution except stone Buddha statues and hundreds of monks' gravestones. The latter includes Ninmon's last resting place. Ninmon was the monk that is reputed to have first brought Buddhism to Kunisaki some 1,100 years ago. A climb to Itsutsu-ji Fudo provides impressive views across the Seto Inland Sea to Honshu and Shikoku, respectively Japan's first and fourth main islands. From here we also have grandstand views over to Hime-shima. Next, we walk down through forests to Monjusen-ji, a temple perched on a high cliff. Breakfast and dinner provided. Total walking time: four hours. Total distance: approx. 4.9 miles.

Day 6: Monjusen-ji - Futago-ji - Baien-no-Sato. Today, we pass through virgin forests and cedar plantations before we descend to an old village to join a little-used ancient track to Futago-ji, the principal temple on Kunisaki. After lunch at a local restaurant, a minibus picks us up to take us to our nearby lodgings for the night; another onsen. The lodgings here are dominated by the rare attraction of a giant, 25-inch reflecting telescope. Another sumptuous Japanese evening meal follows. Weather permitting; we will have the opportunity to look at the stars above Kunisaki through the telescope. The skies here are frequently very clear and a cloudless night can provide spectacular vistas of the heavens. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner provided. Total walking time: four hours. Total distance: approx. 4.3 miles.

Day 7: Baien-no-Sato - Kitsuki - Yufuin. Today we will visit Walk Japan’s office and see the conservation projects they have initiated to support the community and protect the area. We visit the lovely Fuki-ji Temple, followed by the Kumano Magaibutsu, the little-known but largest Buddha relief carvings in Japan. Here we will enjoy a nicely prepared bento lunch. After lunch, we will take a look around Kitsuki, the quiet town's old samurai quarter, featuring buildings from feudal Edo Period Japan. En route to the spa resort town of Yufuin, we visit a sake brewery for a look around and a sample or two of the brewer’s award-winning products. We spend the next two nights in a historic ryokan (traditional inn with thermal hot springs), in the center of Yufuin. This inn has been operated by one family for many generations; in a bygone era, it was frequented by the Japanese upper classes. Breakfast and dinner provided. Total walking time: three hours. Total distance: approx. 2.1 miles.

Day 8: Yufuin - Mt.Yufu - Yufuin. We have a choice today to either climb Mt. Yufu or relax in the pleasant surroundings of Yufuin, a charming resort town dominated by Mt. Yufu. For the hearty hikers, we take a minibus to the start of our 2,300-foot climb of Mt. Yufu (elevation 5,194 feet). At the mountain's peak, a grand panorama across Kyushu to an active volcano and Beppu Bay awaits us and makes a wondrous backdrop to a picnic lunch. After our walk, reinvigorating thermal hot spring baths are followed by another Japanese feast for dinner. Breakfast and dinner provided. Total walking time: six hours. Total distance: 6.2 miles. Total vertical ascent: 2,625 feet.

Day 9: Yufuin - Mt. Aso - Kagoshima. Today, we take the spectacular Yamanami Mountain Highway to the area that leads to the giant caldera of Mount Aso, Japan's largest active volcano. Our hike is dependent on the activity of the volcano and safety during our scheduled visit. The smell of sulfur is ever-present, and on some days, the volume of gas expelled by the volcano is so great that access to Mt. Naka's active crater and volcanic crater lake is restricted. After our selected hike we will be transported to Kumamoto. Here we board Japan’s newest Shinkansen bullet train for Kagoshima, arriving mid-evening. Our hotel is near the station and tonight we’ll take the opportunity to head into town and eat at an izakaya, a lively restaurant and local Japanese favorite. For those who wish, musical or not, there’s an optional visit to another Japanese favorite, a karaoke bar. Breakfast and dinner provided. Total walking time: to be determined at arrival.

Day 10: Kagoshima - Mt. Kaimon - Ibusuki. Before leaving our hotel, we send our main luggage on to Yakushima for day ten, so we pack an overnight bag with enough for today and tomorrow’s activities. With our overnight bag, we set off for Ibusuki and Mt. Kaimon. The latter is known as the "Fuji of Satsuma" because of its striking similarity to its famous counterpart. Satsuma was the original name of the Kagoshima region. We will be rewarded with great views back toward Kagoshima and Kirishima, as well as southwards to the island of Yakushima, our destination tomorrow, weather permiting. Covered with wildflowers during the warmer months, Mt. Kaimon also has historical significance. For many members of the Special Attack Corps, or Kamikaze Squadron, Mt. Kaimon was the last view of their homeland as they embarked on their fatal missions. After descending Mt. Kaimon, depending on time available, we may visit the acclaimed Peace Museum for Kamikaze Pilots in Chiran before making our way to our thermal hot spring lodgings in nearby Ibusuki. Ibusuki is a seaside town famed in Japan for its thermal sand baths. Breakfast and dinner are provided. Total walking time: four and a half hours. Total vertical ascent: approximately. 1,312 feet.

Day 11: Ibusuki - Yakushima. After breakfast, it is a short distance from our lodgings to the port in Ibusuki, where we catch an early morning, high-speed jetfoil to Yakushima Island. On arrival, we head straight for Shiratani Unsuikyo, a spectacular gorge that provides the backdrop for today's walking. This will be our first taste of Yakushima, a truly spectacular natural environment with climatic zones ranging from sub-tropical around the coast to frigid temperatures atop the island's highest peaks. Not surprisingly, a huge variety of flora and fauna find their homes here. Yakushima is officially one of the wettest places on earth, with upwards of 4,000 mm (13 feet) of rainfall recorded annually. Rain should not impair our enjoyment of our time here, but weatherproof gear is highly recommended. The rain actually adds greater atmosphere to the primeval forest we walk through. The forest includes giant, moss-covered cedars which are among some of the oldest trees in the world. We are guaranteed close encounters with deer and monkeys. Hayao Miyazaki, the Oscar-winning animator, found inspiration here for the scenery in Princess Mononoke, one of his most celebrated films. Weather and energy permitting, we'll take the trail as far as Taikoiwa, a giant viewing rock offering excellent views of the island's interior and high peaks, before descending to our lodgings for the evening. Breakfast and dinner provided. Total walking time: five hours. Total ascent: approximately 1,968 feet.

Day 12: Yakushima. Today's plans will be largely weather dependent, but a fine day will see us attempting an ascent of Mt. Kuromi Dake, a granite peak of 6,007 feet. This will necessitate an early start, but keep your eyes open as we take the winding mountain road up from the port of Anbo -- it's worth it for the views back toward the coast. The well-maintained trail to the top passes through a variety of cedar forest, high moorland, and grassland. Depending on the weather and cloud level, a number of alternative options are possible. These include an ascent of Mt. Mocchomu-dake via a viewpoint overlooking the spectacular Senpironotaki Falls; and a hike in Yakusugi Land, another area of impressive giant cedars and fast-flowing rivers. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner provided. Total walking time: around six to eight hours. Total ascent: approximately 2,625 feet.

Day 13: Yakushima – Kirishima. Following breakfast, we take the first flight back from Yakushima to Kagoshima. While our luggage goes on to our accommodation, we head for the mountains of Kirishima. We start on the Lake Onami path and 40 minutes later arrive at the lake. Lying 4,242 feet above sea level, it's the largest crater lake at this altitude in Japan. It is a good point to stop for a rest and take in the expansive views. According to legend, a dragon resides in the lake and at one point took the form of a beautiful maiden, living amongst local villagers for a while before returning to its home beneath the waters. We continue around the lake taking in good views of neighboring Mount Takachiho and the surrounding national park if the weather is clear. Our bus will take us back to Kirishima Jingu and our lodgings. Breakfast and dinner provided. Total walking time: five to six hours. Total vertical: 2,133 feet.

Day 14: Kirishima - Kagoshima Airport. After breakfast we bid farewell and transfer to Kagoshima Airport, where the tour concludes. Breakfast provided.

Getting There

Travel to and from where we meet in Japan is the responsibility of each participant. Japan is one day ahead of the United States, so travel must be planned accordingly. There are direct flights into the Fukuoka Airport on the island of Kyushu, if avoiding the Tokyo Airport is a concern. There are many airlines to choose from and the trip leader will be happy to offer suggestions. Please consult the trip leader for options. Please do not make non-refundable travel arrangements until notified to do so by the trip leader.

Accommodations and Food

All accommodations are in traditional Japanese inns or small hotels with twin shared arrangements. Rooms are often spacious and vary in size and style depending on our inn; one or two nights we may get an option for Western-style beds, but primarily we enjoy traditional sleeping arrangements, on Japanese folded mattress sets. Some futons may be a little harder than what we are accustomed to so supplemental inflatable pads may be an option for those requiring more comfort. Lunches that are not provided by the trip will be purchased at local restaurants or markets. Typical Japanese breakfasts consist of salads, cooked fish, tofu, and soups. Dinners are a feast every night and always include some type of seafood or meat and many small dishes of local vegetables, soups, and condiments. Vegetarians who eat no seafood or chicken can be accommodated, but these dietary requirements should be stated well in advance of the trip.

Trip Difficulty

This trip is suitable only for fit hikers who are comfortable with exposed heights and rough, steep terrain. Japan is a volcanic island with pitched trails and narrow ridges. Due to constant trail erosion, ropes and chains have been added in several areas to promote safety and confidence. The mileage for each hiking day is moderate, but the elevation gains and losses are challenging. Good upper body strength is required in order to pull oneself up steep areas where chains are placed. Some trails require scrambling over uneven, rocky terrain. In addition to a good baseline of strength and balance, a strong conditioning and hiking program is necessary to ensure that you will have a good trip. In order for the trip to be safe and pleasant for both you and for the group as a whole, every applicant will be screened for physical fitness prior to acceptance.

Equipment and Clothing

Good quality hiking apparel, rain gear, sturdy boots with ankle support, a day pack, and hydration system are musts. A detailed equipment list will be sent to participants upon approval.

References

• Lonely Planet - Japan.
• Morton, W. Scott and J. Kenneth Olenik, Japan: Its History and Culture.
• Smith, Patrick, Japan: A Reinterpretation.

Conservation

The Sierra Club is an environmentally focused entity. We are concerned about conservation and sustainability of resources, both locally and globally. Our work is accomplished by volunteers and aided by a salaried staff, encouraging grassroots involvement. Our outings seek to empower participants toward greater understanding, advocacy and participation in the goals of the Club.

Japan is a country with a population of more than 127 million people. Most of its energy is obtained through oil and coal. They are the third-largest oil consumer in the world, behind the U.S. and China. Even though many hydroelectric dams are visible, they only account for about 4% of Japan’s energy. Japan is only about 16 percent energy self-sufficient; however, newer energy sources are beginning to make headway, as we will observe. We will discuss other means the country is using to meet its energy needs and what we can learn from them to improve our own energy awareness.

Beyond energy, Japan has been effectively making use of their waste products. Nearly 85% of their refuse gets recycled compared to the U.S. rate of 32%. The country far exceeds the U.S. in efficiently turning their refuse into new products. We will examine some of the laws that Japan has passed to encourage recycling and ways we can improve our conservation recycling efforts as a country and as individuals.

Evacuation and Travel Insurance

The Sierra Club provides evacuation insurance to all participants on international trips. Since this coverage does not include any trip cancellation or interruption insurance, we suggest you purchase another policy separately to provide coverage for your trip and other travel costs. This policy also does not cover pre-trip and post-trip travel. Please note the evacuation insurance provided does not cover claims resulting from any pre-existing condition that occurs within 60 days of the trip departure. If you have specific questions about this exclusion, please review the insurance brochure. For information on purchasing a separate policy, please see our travel insurance page.