Hiking the Picos de Europa, Northern Spain

The Trip

The Picos de Europa, Spain’s first national park -- founded in 1918 -- are famed for their spectacular beauty. Nicknamed 'Spain's Dolomites,' their dramatic jagged limestone formations are a wonderful landscape for hiking. What makes them so special is the immense variety of terrain within such a compact area. We will hike through lush pastures and meadows, thick woodlands, high limestone peaks, and deep gorges. Craggy limestone peaks rise over 8,000 feet above the nearby Cantabrian sea, surrounded by thick forests and gorges where brown bears, wolves, eagles, and vultures have shared the land for centuries with an ancient semi nomadic farming culture based on cheese making.

Our trek ventures into the three regions and massifs of the national park (Asturias, Castilla y León, and Cantabria), taking us from the deepest gorges to the highest peaks. We’ll experience a comprehensive view into the Picos’ natural and cultural history, observing how both cohabit today in the always challenging coexistence of wildlife, traditional farming, and the public use of protected areas.

Our expert guide lives in Asturias and possesses a deep natural and cultural knowledge of the area. He was involved in the reintroduction project of the bearded vulture and different projects within the local farming community.

We will stay in small local inns and you will have the chance to see the best of the Picos de Europa, their landscape, and their people.

Day 1: Asturias

Today we meet our fellow travelers and our local guide in Santander. Enjoy an introductory warm-up hike and a visit to the Bearded Vulture Centre before reaching our nice hotel in the foothills of the Picos de Europa.

Day 2: Cangas de Onís

Transfer to the Lakes of Covandonga to start hiking in the national park through forests and prairies. Enjoy a circular route as we visit the last shepherd hamlets, and spot Bearded and Griffon vultures. We will have various route options. Hike 6 to 8 miles maximum, 2,000-foot elevation gain, 2,000-foot elevation loss.

Day 3: Vegabaño

Today we take a transfer to the south along the deep Beyos gorge and into the Amieva valley where we pick up the historical Arcediano path to the Jocica reservoir and up to the mountain hut of Vegabaño. This is one of the most forested areas in the Picos. The path rises giving great panoramic views over the peaks of the Western massif before arriving at Vegabaño Hut, situated in an idyllic meadow surrounded by forests. Here Julián and his family have been running the hut for decades and will host us for the night. Hike 9.8 miles, 2,600-foot elevation gain, 1,300-foot elevation loss. 

Day 4: Valdeón

This is a challenging day as we change valleys again going over a pass and into the Valdeón Valley. We traverse thick oak and beech forests where the brown bear still breeds. Rest in a cozy family inn with great views. Hike 10 miles, 3,750-foot elevation gain, 3,100-foot elevation loss.

Day 5: Caín

This is a gentle day as we go down the Cares River valley as it narrows and enters the gorge. Spend the night in a hostel in Caín surrounded by peaks. Hike 6 miles, 600-foot elevation gain, 2,500-foot elevation loss.

Day 6: Bulnes

Traverse the famous Cares gorge today following the spectacular trail carved in the rock. Finish the day climbing up to Bulnes, one of the most beautiful and isolated villages in the Picos de Europa. There are no vehicle roads to Bulnes and the hiking trail was the only way to reach the village until 2001 when a funicular from Poncebos was completed.  We will spend the night in the hostel in Bulnes. Hike 10 miles, 2,300-foot elevation gain, 900-foot elevation loss.

Day 7: Sotres

Traverse over Pandebano pass to the village of Sotres, enjoying great views of the most iconic peak in the area, the Urriello or Naranjo de Bulnes. Hike 6 miles, 2,600-foot elevation gain, 1,200-foot elevation loss.

Day 8: Sotres

Today you may choose to hike or take a rest day and remain in Sotres. Our optional circular hike to the village of Tielve will again have great views of Naranjo de Bulnes, the most emblematic peak in the Picos. In the afternoon we visit a Cabrales blue cheese cave and enjoy dinner in a local restaurant full of local character. Hike 9 miles, 2,100-foot elevation gain, 2,100-foot elevation loss.

Day 9: Aliva

This will be another gentle day as we hike along the Duje Valley to the Aliva high pastures, where we settle into a mountain hotel below the vertical walls of Peña Vieja. Hike 6 miles, 2,600-foot elevation gain, 100-foot elevation loss.

Day 10: Fuente De

Today we climb to a high pass close to the summits of the Central Massif, with an optional extra push to the summit of Horcados Rojos. Finish the day with a cable-car ride down to the comfort of the Parador. Hike 8 miles, 3,300-foot elevation gain, 2,400-foot elevation loss.

Day 11: Potes

This is our final hiking day to walk through the forests, pastures, and villages of the Liebana Valley. We finish with a short transfer to the town of Potes for our farewell dinner. Hike 9 miles, 1,200-foot elevation gain, 2,700-foot elevation loss.

Day 12: Travel home

Today we say farewell to the Picos de Europa and return to Santander.

Getting There

The trip begins in Santander. Santander is served by flights from Madrid and other European cities, and also by bus and train from Bilbao and other Spanish cities. We will meet mid-morning on the first day at a meeting place in Santander. We recommend that you arrive a day or two early to help overcome jetlag and to prevent any problems resulting from trip delays or lost luggage. The trip will end after breakfast at our hotel in Potes. We will provide transportation back to Santander.

You are responsible for having your own passport and obtaining any necessary visas or other travel papers. Evacuation and trip cancelation/interruption insurance is strongly recommended. The leader will send out newsletters with additional travel information and ideas of things to do in the area before and after the trip.

Please do not make non-refundable travel arrangements until notified to do so by the trip leader.

Accommodations and Food

We will be staying in country inns, mountain huts, and hostels. Lodging in the inns is double occupancy with an en suite bathroom for each room. Solo travelers will be paired with a same-sex roommate. Lodging in some of the huts and hostels will be dormitory style.

In your day pack you will need to carry two liters of water, rain gear, trail snacks, and the lunch that we will provide. Your suitcase (one allowed for the trip) will be transported to each of our lodgings while we hike.

The food of northern Spain is hearty and delicious, with regional specialties such as cheeses, ham, sausage, and octopus. Animal-based agriculture is central to the culture and cuisine of this area, with nearly every dish containing some meat, so vegetarian meals cannot be provided. All on-trip meals are included.

Trip Difficulty

This is a hiking trip for experienced hikers who hike on a weekly basis, are able to hike multiple consecutive days, and are comfortable hiking steep hills. Daily hikes will be 6-12 miles, with elevation changes of up to 4,000 feet over rocky, rugged terrain. Some hikes, such as the Cares Gorge and the teleferico (cable car) ride, may be uncomfortable for those who have a fear of heights.

Equipment and Clothing

You will need to wear sturdy hiking boots that come up over the ankle for this trip. A detailed packing list will be sent to each participant. Plan to bring appropriate hiking clothing and a day pack with capacity for rain gear, warm clothing, at least two liters of water, personal snacks, and personal foot care and first-aid items. Be sure to have enough room to carry your share of our picnic lunches. Hiking poles are recommended for this trip.

References

Maps:

• Three maps - 1:50,000 for the entire range and surrounding areas; 1:25,000 for the western massif; and 1:25,000 covering the central and eastern massifs, all found at www.infopicos.com:
  • Parque Nacional de los Picos de Europa -- Andoros Ediciones
  • Picos de Europa – Central and Eastern Massifs (Los Urrieles y Andara), Andoros Ediciones
  • Picos de Europa -- Western Massif (El Cornion), Andoros Ediciones

Videos:

• The Picos de Europa and Costa Verde Spain: https://youtu.be/ZGzWabcfCXA
• Picos de Europa National Park. Part 1: https://youtu.be/n7c0AcQG0l8

Websites:

• https://www.asturiaspicosdeeuropa.com/tourism/picos-de-europa/culture
• https://www.asturiaspicosdeeuropa.com/tourism/picos-de-europa/geography

Conservation

Since its founding in 1892, The Sierra Club has worked to preserve and restore the natural environment we all share on this planet. Thousands of grassroots-level volunteers spearhead our efforts to conserve and sustain resources, both in our own backyards and on a global scale. Through direct experience in the outdoors, Sierra Club outings enable participants to better understand, advocate, and participate in the environmental conservation goals of the Club.

Europeans use an extensive hut system to enjoy the mountains. The huts, along with associated roads and lifts, make a substantial impact, while also allowing greater access to remote places. We will observe these impacts and discuss the differences between Alpine and American "wilderness." 

Our trip explores how local residents are preserving habitat for large raptors and other native species in areas of their country that have been used by humans for centuries. It combines the best of Spain's wild mountains with explorations of the area's long human history and strong agrarian tradition. Spain's appreciation of its natural areas and love for good food will clearly be seen in the countryside and on our table, and we'll learn how local people enjoy the best of both worlds.

The Sierra Club is an environmentally focused entity. We are concerned about the conservation and sustainability of resources, both locally and globally. Our work is accomplished by volunteers and aided by a salaried staff, encouraging grassroots involvement. Our outings seek to empower participants toward environmentally understanding parallel concerns at home and abroad.

Evacuation and Travel Insurance

The Sierra Club provides evacuation insurance to all participants on international trips. Since this coverage does not include any trip cancellation or interruption insurance, we suggest you purchase another policy separately to provide coverage for your trip and other travel costs. This policy also does not cover pre-trip and post-trip travel. Please note the evacuation insurance provided does not cover claims resulting from any pre-existing condition that occurs within 60 days of the trip departure. If you have specific questions about this exclusion, please review the insurance brochure. For information on purchasing a separate policy, please see our travel insurance page.