Circling the Cirque Crest, Kings Canyon National Park, California

The Trip

The inspiration for this trip comes from many sources, but chief among them is a conceptual route along the crest of the Sierra Nevada that parallels the famed John Muir Trail, but goes higher, stays higher, and keeps off-trail to the greatest extent possible. By “conceptual,” we mean that there’s no set path or trail to follow, only general guidelines and landmarks -- some key destinations linked together through a desire to stay as close to timberline as possible (timberline being that variable elevation where the trees thin out, a narrow band between forest and exposed granite).

Such a route had been sought and achieved in small pieces, over decades of early trips into the high backcountry of the Sierra, but was first described cohesively by famed mountaineer and writer Steve Roper, in his 1982 work, “Timberline Country, The Sierra High Route.” Our trip will start on trail at Road’s End in Kings Canyon, moving up through Paradise Valley, before peeling away up Arrow Creek for a challenging cross country ascent of Arrow Pass to Bench Lake where we encounter a grand view of the Cirque Crest. Our high route adventure takes us over Cartridge Pass and into the remote upper Lake Basin where we plan to spend a layover day before following a segment of the Sierra High Route back to Road's End.  

We’ll be retracing the steps of several of the very early Sierra Club High Trips and experiencing up close the attraction of the high country where the trees thin out and give way to meadows and peaks.

This is a strenuous trip, with significant elevation gain and loss and most hiking done away from established trails. Hiking terrain will be loose, steep, and exposed in some sections, and there are several stream crossings that may require wading through cold water. It is intended for participants with previous backpacking experience at altitudes above 10,000 feet, although all well-conditioned backpackers are welcome to apply.

This trip starts on a Sunday and ends nine days later on a Monday. There is one planned layover, where trip members will be free to explore a high lake basin. Each day has some cross-country, except the very first day.

Day 1: The trip begins at the relatively low elevation of 5,000 feet in Kings Canyon Park, at Road’s End. On the first morning, we walk gradually up canyon, past Mist Falls, through Paradise Valley, to a campsite near the junction of Woods Creek and the South Fork of the Kings River at 6,600 feet.

Day 2: We’ll cross a steel bridge, walk up Woods Creek a bit, and then turn to a cross-country ascent of an open slope, and cross a minor ridge to gain Arrow Creek. The path up Arrow Creek drainage is beautiful, and we’ll camp near one of its upper lakes (10,500 feet).

Day 3: This day involves a crossing of Arrow Pass (11,600 feet). After an optional ascent of Arrow Peak, we descend to an exquisite campsite at Bench Lake (10,500 feet) with views across the lake as well as down canyon, with views of the fabled Muro Blanco.

Day 4: This will be a day filled with challenges and rewards. We begin by descending to the Kings River, crossing it, and then working our way up through slopes, lakes, meadows and open terrain to Cartridge Pass (11,800 feet). There is a very old trail there, the original route of the John Muir Trail; we’ll use it where it’s visible, but won’t count on it always being there. Descending Cartridge Pass, we’ll work to a suitable campsite for a layover in Lake Basin (10,600 feet).

Day 5: Today is a layover, with great opportunities for exploring Lake Basin. Fishing is good here, and there are more lakes than anyone can visit in a single day -– take that as a challenge!

Day 6: Now on the “formal” Sierra High Route, we cross over to Marion Lake (10,300 feet), and then move over two minor passes, Red and Grey, finishing with a descent into lake-filled Cartridge Creek (10,200 feet).

Day 7: From Cartridge Creek, we embark on a thrilling section of cross-country hiking, where the route seems impossible and then opens to reveal the way. We cross Windy Pass, pass through State and Horseshoe Lakes, and then wander up Glacier Valley to our camp at Glacier Lakes (10,500 feet).

Day 8: Today is all cross-country as we move from Glacier Lakes, crossing one minor and one major saddle. The going is easier here, and we finish at Grouse Lake (10,500 feet), which is renowned for having one of the best views in all the Sierra -– featuring evening sunset, morning sunrise, and a lake view spread out below. It’s worth the effort of the entire trip to get here.

Day 9: Our final day starts with a mile of easy and level cross-country, then a seven-mile plunge down 5,000 feet to the trailhead. The trail is extremely well graded, and the miles pass easily.

The route as outlined above is tentative and may be modified due to unforeseen circumstances. Please bring a flexible demeanor and a good sense of humor, should we need to make any changes! No matter what route we ultimately follow, it will be enjoyable and inspirational -- as John Muir said, “… keeping us close to Nature’s heart.”

Getting There

The trip begins at 7:00 a.m. on Sunday, the first day of the trip, at a campground near Cedar Grove in Kings Canyon National park. The leaders will reserve a large campsite for all who wish to arrive Saturday evening. Although the official start of the trip is early on Sunday morning, it is highly recommended to come in the day before, to relax, hang out in camp, and get a good night’s sleep at the trailhead altitude.

Specific driving directions and campsite meeting instructions will be sent out to trip participants a couple months before departure.

Please do not make non-refundable travel arrangements until notified to do so by the trip leader.

Accommodations and Food

The leaders have good experience planning tasty, nutritious, and lightweight fare. We can accommodate some but not all dietary restrictions and preferences. It’s your responsibility to indicate any special dietary requirements on your trip application. All equipment for cooking and preparing meals is provided on this trip -- participants need only bring their own cups/bowls, utensils, and water bottles/carriers. The trip will provide means of water treatment for those who want it.

All food “on route” is provided, including breakfasts, lunches, dinners, snacks, and happy hour refreshments. The first trip meal is lunch on Sunday (the first day of the trip) and the last trip meal is lunch on Monday (the last day of the trip). Trip members are on their own for any meals at the campground (to be announced). All meals on the trip are prepared by trip participants, under supervision of trip staff, in rotating cook crews that share in the easy work of making and setting out the day’s fare.

After the trip, you might want to treat yourself to a relaxing dip in the cold water of the Kings River, or the hot showers at Cedar Grove.

Trip Difficulty

This trip is rated 5, the most difficult rating applied to Sierra Club backpack trips. It won’t be the hardest of fives, so to speak, but will nonetheless present rigors and challenges, especially when moving cross-country, away from established trails. We will hike up, over, and down steep and loose terrain at different times, and cross several cold streams. This trip is best suited to backpackers with previous experience hiking on loose terrain at elevations above 10,000 feet.

It is imperative that all trip members be in very good physical condition before the trip starts. Once underway, it is awkward and disruptive to escort ill-conditioned hikers off the trip. It’s also unfair to all who put in the effort to condition properly, for others to show up out of shape. Proper conditioning consists of regular practice hikes with loaded pack and boots in the months before the trip -– not something that can just be crammed in the weekend before the trip. Some further thoughts on conditioning are at http://www.knapsack.org/training.html

Weather in the Sierra Nevada can be highly variable. Temperatures on our trip might be as hot as 85 or 90 degrees F in the middle of the day on a sunny slope, while nights can easily fall below freezing if a cold front moves through. As well, even though most days are very pleasant, we can expect rain at any time, sometimes even an extended storm. Accordingly, your personal gear must keep you cool during the day, warm at night, and dry if it should rain.

Equipment and Clothing

Most backpackers are familiar with the basics: Boots in good condition that provide traction on granite slabs and adequate ankle support. Also a properly fitted pack, large enough to hold all personal gear, plus a portion of the group’s gear, which means a cylindrical animal-proof food canister and a share of the cooking gear. Some form of rain protection, both jacket/poncho and tent or tarp. And layers of warm clothes. From there, the list will include a hat, sunglasses, water bottle, cup, spoon, etc. There is a convenient list of all such items at http://www.knapsack.org/basic_equipment.html

References

Maps:

Compass and maps are not required, as the leaders will be carrying these. However you are encouraged to bring your own maps if you wish to follow the route as we go, and the trip leader will be quite pleased to help you trace the route on your map, and offer instruction in use of the compass as well. There are four USGS 7.5 minute series topographic maps that cover our route: The Sphinx, Marion Peak, Mount Pinchot, and Mount Clarence King.

Books:

A primary reference work is Steve Roper’s “Sierra High Route: Traversing Timberline Country (2^nd Ed.).” An excellent review of the area’s natural history is “Sierra Nevada, The Naturalist’s Companion” by Verna Johnston (1998). Another good book is “Close Ups of the High Sierra” by Norman Clyde (1997), which gives a flavor of the early mountaineering in the Sierra. The trip leader will suggest more books in pre-trip newsletters.

Conservation

“If future generations are to remember us with gratitude rather than contempt, we must leave them something more than the miracles of technology. We must leave them a glimpse of the world as it was in the beginning, not just after we got through with it." - President Lyndon B. Johnson, on the signing of the Wilderness Act of 1964.

The Sierra Club's history is steeped in efforts to preserve endangered habitat and wilderness. Indeed, the Club was instrumental in passing the Wilderness Act of 1964 that established the National Wilderness Preservation System and afforded the High Sierra the highest level of protection possible. The Wilderness Act of 1964 defines "wilderness" as "an area where the earth and its community are untrammeled by man, where man himself is a visitor." This important act first established the National Wilderness Preservation System, originally protecting nine million acres of national forest lands. Over the years the system was expanded significantly; the last expansion took place in March 2009 when congress expanded the Wilderness system by another two million acres. Today some 108 million acres are encompassed by the system, including the John Muir Wilderness and the Sequoia-Kings Canyon Wilderness, where we will be "visitors" for most of our trip.

The Sierra Club is currently working extensively on the concept of resilient habitats. Its website explains: "Climate change is the largest threat that our natural heritage has ever faced. The effects of climate disruption are already being felt on even our most pristine landscapes. Setting aside areas where development is restricted is no longer enough -- we must now actively work to create resilient habitats where plants, animals, and people are able to survive and thrive on a warmer planet." The vision of the Sierra Club is to create climate-resilient habitats in 10 targeted ecosystems by 2020. One of these areas is the Sierra Nevada, where we will spend our entire trip.

Since the days of John Muir, the Sierra Club has believed that its outings program provides a perfect opportunity for members to both enjoy the fruits of past conservation victories and learn about current concerns. While on the trip, we will talk at times about the Club’s conservation campaigns and encourage participants to bring their own stories of involvement in efforts to protect our threatened natural areas.

Sierra Club National Outings is an equal-opportunity provider and when applicable will operate under permits obtained from U.S. federal land agencies.