Brazil's Pantanal: Wildlife and Birding in the Wetlands

The Trip

The Pantanal is considered the "Serengeti" of South America. It is a place of superlatives. It is a wildlife watcher’s paradise consisting of the world’s largest fresh-water wetlands -- 10 times the size of the Everglades. “Pantanal” is derived from a Portuguese word meaning “swamp." Mainly in the southeastern Brazilian states of Mato Grosso and Mato Grosso do Sur, the Pantanal is a gently sloping basin with meandering rivers that slowly release water to a single drainage channel, the Paraguay River, that eventually falls over Iguazu Falls. Annual flooding for six months in the vast grasslands nourishes the “producers," which in turn nourishes all other species as well. In the dry season between June and late September, the vast flooded fields shrink to smaller ponds, and many animals are drawn to these water holes. The sheer numbers of birds and animals are unsurpassed. The days will be filled with many mammal sightings (especially capybaras), hundreds of yacaré (one of the smaller crocodilians), and although no one can guarantee specific wildlife sightings, there are thousands of birds found in this area, including the brilliant blue hyacinth macaw. We search for the giant and common tamandua (anteater), Brazilian tapir, and marsh deer along the way, and journey to the Cuiabá River for our quest for the jaguar and giant river otter. Five iconic birds that we shall seek of the hundreds in the area are the greater rhea, helmeted manakin, toco toucan, agami heron, and jabiru. As for reptiles, one serpent tops every visitor’s wishlist: the world’s biggest snake, the yellow anaconda, which we might see sunbathing along the gravel roads.

We also venture into the Cerrado, a tropical savanna that is the second largest habitat in Brazil after the Amazonian rainforest. The Cerrado is considered the richest of all tropical savannas. It has a semi-humid tropical climate. Most of the Cerrado is privately owned and ranched; recently more ranchers are employing practices to protect wildlife. We will learn about their efforts on this trip. The Cerrado also includes a unique habitat called the gallery forest. A gallery forest is a treed area forming a corridor along rivers or wet areas. The gallery forest creates a microclimate along the river for wildlife to live, feed and travel through. We will walk through the gallery forests looking for these mammals and more birds. Even though it is winter, we can expect warm sunny days with little humidity and, being the dry season, very few mosquitoes.

On this trip we explore the north and south regions of Matto Grosso province, venturing into the heart of the Pantanal in search of mammals and birds, exploring the habitats of the Pantanal, the Cerrado, and the transition zone that connects them. In addition to the magic of the wild regions, we experience the exuberant culture of Brazil at the fazendas (ranches) where we stay and enjoy Brazilian hospitality and churascos (BBQs) with vegetarian options. Join in the fabulous adventure!

Day 1: We meet in São Paulo, Brazil’s largest city at a hotel near the airport. We will enjoy a welcome dinner, meeting our travel companions, and having an orientation of our upcoming adventure.

Day 2: We head to the airport for an early morning flight that takes us to Campo Grande, a small city in the transitional zone between the Pantanal and the Cerrado. We have a four hour drive by private van to our lodge, stopping for coffee and empanadas about halfway. Once we leave the main road and embark on a gravel road, our birding and wildlife spotting starts in earnest. We will look for native wildlife including iconic birds species. Upon arrival at the lodge which is also a fazenda (working ranch), we enjoy Brazilian hospitality, delicious fresh meals, bird feeders, and an inviting swimming pool. In the afternoon, we go birding in a safari vehicle to look for more wildlife. We return to the lodge for a wildlife checklist review and a tasty dinner. We stay at our remote lodge for three nights.

Day 3: We wake to the avian calls of the Chaco chachalacas (Pantanal alarm clocks) for a quick cup of coffee and some early morning birding. After breakfast we head out in the safari vehicle for birding, stopping at times to walk amongst the trees and grasslands in search of native species. We return for lunch and a siesta or swim before heading out in the afternoon for a wildlife cruise on a river boat.

Day 4: Today we roam farther from our lodge on our safari vehicle in search of new species such as white-lipped peccary, alpomado falcon, red-headed blackbirds, and many more waterbirds. We take a break for lunch, a cool dip, or a siesta. After lunch we take a hike into the gallery forest. Dinner is a traditional Brazilian churasco (barbecue) with vegetarian options. After dinner we embark on a night drive to look for nocturnal critters. A long day, but full of new wildlife and adventure.

Day 5: We enjoy our last morning with the flocks of hyacinth and blue and yellow macaws serenading us at breakfast. We get back in our private bus and to Rio da Prata and a lovely fazenda where we will have a typical Brazilian lunch. After lunch we plan to enjoy an exciting river snorkel in the crystal clear waters of the Rio da Prata. The eco tour operator follows the principles for sustainable ecotourism and will discuss how the ranch and ecotourism work together. On our river tour we will see native fish underwater and macaws overhead in a unique view of the underwater and river world in the Cerrado. For those who prefer to hang out or bird watch rather than snorkel, there is a lovely shaded area with comfortable hammocks. Afterwards we leave for Jardim for our overnight accommodations.

Day 6: This morning we have a special treat. We drive to Buraco Das Araras, translated as “Cave of the Macaws.” The buraco is actually a sandstone crater created by the collapse of boulders in geologic terms called a doline. We walk around the crater watching the macaws take flight over the red sandstone in beautiful patterns before alighting on the cliffs or trees. The Buraco Das Araras is part of the Buraco das Araras Private Natural Heritage Reserve. Afterwards we drive toward Aquidauana another nearby area for birding. Later in the afternoon we continue toward Campo Grande in order to position ourselves for an early morning flight tomorrow to Cuibá. Dinner is at a famous Brazilian restaurant chain known for seafood.

Day 7: We fly to Cuiabá early and meet our new bus and driver. We head out to an ecolodge along the famous Pantanaria Road to look for birds and mammals passing through palm woodlands, ferraro scrub, and flooded grasslands. We have lunch, rest and then go by safari vehicle to look for jaguars, howler monkeys, crab-eating fox, and Brazilian tapirs. We climb an observation tower to give us perspective of the vast area and tens of thousands of birds. In the evening we meet to review our mammal and bird checklist and enjoy a delicious meal.

Day 8: We have a full day at our fazenda lodge, the first in the area to promote ranching with ecotourism, especially for the protection of the jaguar. We will continue to explore the grounds by walking and with safari vehicles. A river tour takes us along a meandering path, searching for wildlife. Midday we have a break for a swim in the pool or rest in our room before taking a night tour. We will also take a walk away from the lights and bathe in the majesty of the Southern Cross and Milky Way.

Day 9: We continue on Transpantanerira Road to look for wildlife and wetland birds. Around lunchtime we arrive in Porto Jofre and embark on a 20 minute boat ride to our houseboat on the Cuiabá River. We relax during the heat of the day and then in the afternoon begin our search, and with good guides and luck, we may see the area’s wildlife highlight— the jaguar. We enjoy a buffet dinner and recount the day’s adventure.

Day 10: This day is dedicated to searching for jaguar. We travel on small boats from our houseboat in the river, side channels, and lagoons. If we find a jaguar, we will stay and observe their markings and behaviors. Our guides may also identify the individual and tell us their story. We will also search for the giant river otter along the way, looking for their family groupings and playful antics. We have a break for lunch and go out again in the late afternoon for more bird and animals sightings and enjoy watching the sun set and the nighthawks and bats careen over the water.

Day 11: Reluctantly we leave our life on the river and fly by chartered plane back to Cuiabá. We have a farewell lunch at a famous churascuro in town, and then take a commercial flight back to São Paulo in time to make international connections. We say goodbye for the wild areas and animals we have seen, savoring the memories of the Pantanal. 

Getting There

The trip starts and ends in Sao Paulo, Brazil. Sao Paulo is served by a variety of airlines from the United States. The leader can assist you with flight suggestions. Please do not make non-refundable travel arrangements until notified to do so by the trip leader.

Accommodations and Food

We will stay in cozy lodges on fazendas (working ranches), a houseboat in the wetlands, and comfortable hotels. Rooms are double occupancy; a roommate will be assigned for solo travelers. Single supplements may be available; please contact the leader for information. All of our accommodations have private baths and all have air conditioning, although most evenings will cool off comfortably to sleep with a room fan. 

All meals, starting with dinner on day one and ending with lunch on day 11, are included in the cost of the trip. Pantanal lodges serve a cuisine typical of this region, which is very rich in variations of beef, chicken, and occasionally, fish. Vegetarians can be accommodated, but choices may be limited; you cannot escape the fact that the Pantanal is cattle country. A wide variety of foods are available in the city hotels. Please inform the leader of any dietary restrictions when completing your application.

Trip Difficulty

Our days in the Pantanal are at a low elevation; we will take short to moderate walks, cross-country vehicle trips, a river snorkel excursion, and on-the-water outings. We do a considerable amount of standing around or stopped in our safari vehicle or boat while observing birds and wildlife. This will not be a trip to simply “check a mammal or bird off your list” and move on; we will take time to observe the behavior and beauty of the creatures we have come so far to see. There will be plenty of time to take photographs, although the trip is not designed primarily for serious wildlife photography. It can get quite hot in the middle of the day, so we will emphasize early morning and late afternoon and evening activities, allowing some midday leisure. Daytime temperatures will be in the 80s and low 90s and night times cool off to the 50s. We travel in an air conditioned bus or open-air safari vehicle or boat.

To fully enjoy this trip, you should be in good physical condition and eager to fully participate in all activities. You need to commit to rising early each morning in order to make the most of the day before it gets too warm to enjoy. Dawn is around 6:00 a.m. and sunset is at 6 p.m. Although hikes are not strenuous, at times there will be long periods in the field. You could call this a “relaxed” trip, but not a “leisure” trip. Some of the activities can be optional if you prefer to spend some time in a hammock or by the pool.

It is critical that one learns how to use binoculars prior to the trip. The leader will provide guidance on binocular choices as well as instructions on how to best use binoculars. Taking advantage of birding opportunities offered by your local Audubon or other birding groups will be helpful. Patience is part of the process, and seeing new birds and other wildlife is truly a magical experience. No one sees everything, but we will assist you to see as much as possible. No one can guarantee you’ll see specific wildlife.

There is no malaria in the Pantanal, but yellow fever has recently been reported from some areas. A yellow fever vaccine is strongly recommended for all travelers to Brazil except those only visiting Rio de Janeiro, Sao Paulo, and certain coastal areas; please check with your physician about the vaccine especially the need depending on your age. It is recommended if you do not get the vaccine that you do bring a letter from your physician stating why you do not have the vaccine. Be sure to bring your “yellow booklet," the International Certificate of Vaccination, with the record of your vaccinations. Taking measures to protect yourself from mosquito bites is an essential part of preventing yellow fever as well as annoying itches. In addition to yellow fever, inoculations to discuss with your doctor are Hepatitis A, Typhoid, and Tetanus. It will be necessary to always drink purified or bottled water in Brazil. The leader will provide some guidance for you regarding health and safety so that you can discuss your travel plans with your physician or a travel medicine service.

Equipment and Clothing

You need to have a good pair of waterproof binoculars. This trip would be a good excuse to treat yourself to a new, excellent pair of binoculars, but be sure you take plenty of time to test them and get thoroughly used to them well before this trip. The leader can recommend a variety of options from economical to high end. A camera is not required, but for such a wildlife spectacle, most people will bring one. The same advice is offered to owners of a new camera -- practice, practice, practice using it before you leave home.

For this trip you will want comfortable, loose clothing with long sleeves and pants for protection from the environment. Lightweight boots that can get wet are recommended. Temperatures will often be quite warm, but this is the season when cold storms blow up from the south, so you will need to have a warm jacket for that possibility. Laundry service will be available, allowing you to travel with a minimum of changes. You will want a day pack for your essentials that go everywhere with you as well as a rolling suitcase or duffle as your main piece of luggage. A packing list with many more details will be provided after you have signed up for the trip.

References

Conservation

Conservation issues in Brazil are many: deforestation, illegal wildlife trade, illegal poaching, air and land degradation, forest fires, water pollution caused by mining, wetland degradation, pesticide use, and oil spills. The land of the Pantanal is 99% in private ownership primarily for the purpose of ranching. The wildlife within the Pantanal exists because of cattle ranching; without it, the lands would have been cultivated with soybeans. There are 2,500 fazendas (ranches) in the region, with up to 8 million head of cattle. The Pantanal is under threat from many other human activities, including recreational over fishing, hunting and poaching of endangered species, uncontrolled tourism, deforestation and burning for agricultural use, runoff from agricultural chemicals, and mining of gold and coal. Pressure for economic development, such as the plan to dredge the Paraguay and Parana Rivers to create a “hydro-road” which would allow ocean-going ships to travel far inland, would have serious consequences for the ecosystem by altering the flooding and drainage cycles.

Brazil’s eastern seaboard has always been the main locus of its population and industry. Today it accounts for 70% of Brazil’s population, including mega cities like Rio de Janeiro and Sao Paulo, and about 80% of its gross domestic product. Five hundred years ago, the Atlantic Forest of Brazil covered an area about twice the size of Texas, but today more than 85% of this forest has been cleared and what remains is highly fragmented. At present, less than 2% of the whole biome is under protected status. The primary continuing threats to these fragments include illegal logging and extractive activities of valuable timber species, land conversion to pasture, agriculture, and forest plantations, and expansion of urban areas and suburban development. The Nature Conservancy, along with a wide range of partners, has an ambitious plan to protect and restore millions of acres by stitching together a mosaic of land in order to create “forest corridors” of contiguous swaths of land. In order to build forest corridors it is necessary to first identify key areas for biodiversity conservation, then re-establish connections among isolated forest patches by creating public and private protected areas and restoring deforested zones. Also, it is essential to consider the lives of the people subsisting in these forests.

In terms of wildlife, when the hordes of caimans (Yacaré) are seen in the Pantanal, one might think that that Yacaré are abundant, and that is true now, but only due to recent conservation efforts. For nearly all the 20th century, these animal were hunted savagely to supply the global demand for “crocodile skins." Only since 1990 has trade legislation been enforced strongly enough for poaching to nearly cease. Yacaré have recovered rapidly and current populations are estimated around 35 million.

Another example is the incredible story of the recovering hyacinth macaw that raises our hopes as the population in the Pantanal has risen from 1,500 in 1990 to over 3,000 now, due primarily to the efforts of The Hyacinth Macaw Project, which was started in 1980 by a 27 year old biology student with the intention of increasing breeding success. These macaws nest in one unique tree, manduvi, which is soft enough for them to hollow out with their beaks, and they prefer to eat the nut of one particular tree, the acuri palm. Both trees are scarce and fall victim to cattle. We will stay at a fazenda that has planted these palms and made a commitment to sustaining their populations while also ranching at the same time.

We will have many opportunities to discuss these issues with our guides and rangers as we travel this amazing landscape on the brink of critical decisions for future preservation. These discussions will be lively and thought provoking as we wrestle with the challenges and opportunities.

The Sierra Club is an environmentally focused entity. We are concerned about conservation and sustainability of resources both locally and globally. Our work is accomplished by volunteers and aided by a salaried staff, and encourages grassroots involvement. Our outings hope to inspire participants toward understanding the environmental parallels between home and abroad.

Evacuation and Travel Insurance

The Sierra Club provides evacuation insurance to all participants on international trips. Since this coverage does not include any trip cancellation or interruption insurance, we suggest you purchase another policy separately to provide coverage for your trip and other travel costs. This policy also does not cover pre-trip and post-trip travel. Please note the evacuation insurance provided does not cover claims resulting from any pre-existing condition that occurs within 60 days of the trip departure. If you have specific questions about this exclusion, please review the insurance brochure. For information on purchasing a separate policy, please see our travel insurance page.