Seeking Solitude in Ionian Basin, California

The Trip

“. . . this gorge lay directly south of us, and in an hour we had descended to its head, which we found was guarded by a nearby frozen lake, whose sheer ice-smoothed walls arose on either side, up and up, seemingly into the very sky, their crowns two sharp black peaks of most majestic form. A Scylla and a Charybdis they seemed to us, as we stood at the margin of the lake and wondered how we might pass the dangerous portal.” - Theodore Solomons, describing Chasm Lake, the head of the Enchanted Gorge, and vicinity, from “Mt. Goddard and its Vicinity – in the High Sierra of California,” Appalachia, vol. 8, no.1, 1896

Conveying an almost mystical feeling, the dark slate jumble of cirques, ridges, and lakes lying between Scylla and Charybdis and the main Goddard Divide remains as untrammeled today as when Solomons first visited. The father of the John Muir Trail, Solomons was seeking a break in the Goddard Divide that would facilitate a viable north-south route through the High Sierra. He didn’t find it here and departed via the Enchanted Gorge, another of the lyrical place names he bestowed.

The Ionian Basin, as this area is now called, is a featured goal of this trip. However, it’s the adventure of cross-country travel in one of the most rugged regions of the High Sierra that is this trip’s true highlight. We’ll climb over four jagged cols over 12,000 feet in elevation. Our route negotiates just about every kind of off-trail terrain the Sierra can throw at us, from Volkswagen-sized boulders to slippery scree slopes to summer snow fields. Initial access and final exit will necessarily be by well-traveled trails, but the bulk of this trip covers terrain that will command our attention and test our stamina. It won’t all be so demanding, with primitive paths providing access to infrequently visited lakeshores and stream sides. At day’s end, we’ll rest in the alpenglow satisfied, knowing that great adventure involves successfully overcoming obstacles.

Beginning from an east-side trailhead, we’ll enter the Park via the aptly named Lamarck Col, and hike through the grandeur of the granitic Darwin Bench, Evolution Basin, and Valley. Our exit from the Ionian Basin passes through the upper reaches of LeConte Canyon before crossing the crest at Echo Col and traversing Sabrina Basin.

We will invoke the old Sierra Club axiom of traveling “high and light,” not only by scrutinizing the group equipment and simplifying the menu but also by keeping our total group size down to a maximum of two leaders and six participants. We will also travel “high and light” by learning and practicing Leave No Trace principles in all of our operations.

Day 1: The trip will begin at 3:00 p.m. at a campground near our North Lake entry trailhead. After introductions, we'll make final preparations for our hike, including shuttling vehicles to the exit trailhead if necessary.

Day 2: We’ll depart from the North Lake trailhead to ascend a maintained trail to Lamarck Lakes for our first backcountry camp. This short yet steep day, ascending 1,500 feet in a little over 2 miles will give us time to help acclimatize.

Day 3: We will follow a use trail over Lamarck Col (12,800 feet), ascending 2,000 feet in 2.5 miles and descending 1,600 feet, scampering down boulders through Darwin Canyon, to our camp on Darwin Bench with an amazing view of Evolution Basin.

Day 4: A well-worn use trail leads us down 600 feet to the John Muir Trail (JMT). We'll follow it while gradually ascending 1,000 feet over 4.5 miles past Evolution and Sapphire lakes to the west side of Wanda Lake, where we leave the trail and make camp.

Day 5: We will clamber up 850 feet over Wanda Pass, our 12,400-foot portal to the Ionian Basin, take in the breathtaking view of Scylla and Charybdis at the entrance to the Enchanted Gorge, then descend to our camp at Lake 11592. This short yet strenuous day should allow us time in camp to relish the solitude of our surroundings.

Day 6: A planned layover in the Ionian Basin provides opportunities for peak climbing, exploring, or relaxing. Peak possibilities include Mt. Goddard (13,568 feet), Charybdis (13,096 feet), or Scylla (12,956 feet).

Day 7: We exit Ionian Basin via Chasm Lake and Black Giant Pass, a 12,200-foot cross-country pass, before dropping down to the JMT for a brief stint. We then continue off-trail again and ascend to Lake 11428 at the foot of Echo Col. This will be one of our most demanding days with 2,000 feet of challenging cross-country ascent and descent over 5 miles. 

Day 8: We tackle our final major challenge, Echo Col. We ascend 1,000 feet in half a mile as we carefully navigate up and over the col and down a short class 3 section. Boulders and scree led us down 1,400 feet over 2 miles to our last camp at Hungry Packer Lake.

Day 9: We quickly reach the trail and hike down 2,000 feet to our awaiting vehicles in the Lake Sabrina trailhead parking lot.

Getting There

We begin our hike at North Lake trailhead, which is located about 20 miles west of Bishop, CA. We finish at the Pine Creek trailhead, about 45 minutes away. Bishop is on the east side of the Sierra Nevada, about 200 miles from Reno, 265 miles from either Las Vegas or Los Angeles, and 300 miles from San Francisco. Trip members arriving from other parts of the country should explore the option of flying to one of these major cities and sharing a rental car or arranging a ride. Eastern Sierra Transit offers bus service from the airport in Reno, NV to Bishop, CA. They also have a Bishop Creek shuttle bus. Check online for current information. 

We will send a trip roster to all participants well before the trip to facilitate ride-sharing. Specific driving directions will also be sent before departure.

Please do not make travel arrangements until the leader has confirmed you as a trip member. We also recommend that you do not plan to fly on the last day of the trip as we cannot guarantee completing the trip at a specific time.

Accommodations and Food

We will meet at a campground near the North Lake trailhead, where we will have introductions, review personal gear, and set up the car shuttle. Dinner will be potluck or at a nearby restaurant (not included in the price of the trip).

All meals and snacks will be provided beginning with breakfast at the campground on the second day through lunch on the final day. We will offer a variety of nutritious, easy-to-prepare meals. Vegetarians can be easily accommodated, but participants unable to eat either dairy or gluten should consider another outing. Since all food must fit into bear canisters, we ask that participants not bring their food.

Participants will be responsible for bringing their toilet paper, personal first-aid kit, and method of water purification (chlorine tablets, filter, stereo-pen, etc.)

Cooking and clean-up duties will be shared by all participants on a pre-assigned basis.

Trip Difficulty

The trip is rated 5 on a scale of 1-5 where 1 denotes the least difficult and 5 the most difficult. The trip is intended for experienced backpackers who are comfortable carrying weighted packs at high altitudes over rough terrain. We will hike between 5 and 7 miles per day, most of which will be cross-country at elevations exceeding 11,000 feet. Possible snow through the passes and high water levels at stream crossings can add significantly to the physical demands of the trip.

Almost 50% of the planned backpack route is cross-country. The cross-country segments will involve difficult terrain with significant climbs and descents. The terrain may consist of steep, unstable talus, steep slabs, ramps through cliffs, scree slopes, and steep snow. Included in the Reference section is a list of YouTube links to videos taken by a trip leader showing hiking on a variety of cross-country terrain types.

All participants must maintain a year-round exercise routine and commit to a pre-trip training program starting well in advance that includes carrying a loaded pack on mountain trails. Because of the altitude, the leader requests that you spend at least two nights above 7,000 feet before the first hiking day to help you acclimatize. One of those nights will be at our campground near North Lake. The leader can give you advice on how to prepare for this adventure so that you and others can fully enjoy it.

While we may arrive on this journey as individuals we are a team during the hike in the wilderness. This requires all participants to be mentally and physically prepared for the demands of backpacking. Flexibility is essential and is a requirement for this trip.

Equipment and Clothing

In addition to food, the Sierra Club will also provide cooking gear (stove, fuel, lightweight pots, and pans), an emergency first-aid kit, a tarp, and bear-proof canisters for storing food and toiletries. You are responsible for providing and carrying your own camping gear, clothing, toilet paper, personal first-aid kit, and water purification method. Because you will be carrying up to 15 pounds of commissary gear and food, your equipment must weigh as little as possible, for a total (before group gear) of 20 pounds or less.

The High Sierra is renowned for its excellent summer weather. However, be prepared for extremes. Temperatures in mid-August, while typically in the high 60s, can reach the 80s in some spots, especially on sunny exposed slopes. Overnight low temperatures are typically in the low 40s but can fall below freezing. Extended rain or snowstorms can occur at any time of the year, and this weather can have a significant impact on your ability to stay warm and dry.

If you do not have a lightweight pack, tent, and sleeping bag suitable for high altitudes, you might want to consider purchasing new equipment. The leader can give you advice about suitable gear. The following is a list of required and optional clothing and gear.

Required:

• Backpack
• Hiking poles
• Comfortable, well-broken-in hiking boots
• Sleeping bag (temperature rating 20°F or below)
• Sleeping pad
• Lightweight tent with rainfly and ground cloth
• Waterproof rain gear (pants, jacket, pack cover)
• Fleece or wool jacket
• Warm hat and gloves
• Lightweight synthetic pants 
• Light- or mid-weight synthetic long-sleeved shirt
• Change of underwear
• Thermal underwear
• At least one change of socks
• Sun protection (sunglasses + sunscreen with SPF 20 or above + sun hat)
• Personal first-aid kit (moleskin or adhesive tape for blister treatment, personal meds)
• Personal toiletries (toothbrush, toothpaste, biodegradable soap, toilet paper). Women should bring extra tampons, even if it is not the time of their regular period.
• Water purification method 
• Lightweight eating utensils (plate, cup, spoon, fork)
• Insect repellent
• Water containers (two liters minimum)
• Lightweight headlamp
• Whistle

Optional:

• Waterproof sandals (nice in camp or for stream crossings)
• Bandana or handkerchief
• Head net (for insects)
• Bathing suit
• Lightweight camera

For more information, please refer to: http://www.knapsack.org/basic_equipment.html

References

Maps:

• Tom Harrison Cartography's "Mono Divide Country" and “Kings Canyon Country” trail maps provide the best overview. The U.S. Forest Service map of the John Muir Wilderness also covers the entire route.
• Except for the last three miles of the trip, the entire planned route is contained on the “Mt. Darwin” and “Mt. Goddard” USGS 7.5-minute series maps.

Books:

• Secor, R.J., The High Sierra: Peaks, Passes, and Trails. The Mountaineers. The encyclopedia.
• Arnot, Phil, High Sierra: John Muir's Range of Light. Vivid description of several of the locales we plan to visit as well as many other spectacular areas in the Sierra.
• Browning, Peter, Splendid Mountains: Early Exploration in the Sierra Nevada. Great West Books.
• Morey, Kathy, et al, Sierra South: Backcountry Trips in California’s Sierra Nevada. Wilderness Press.

Websites:

Hiking cross-country example videos (taken by Stephanie Wilson on a private 2013 trip):

• Stream crossing: https://youtu.be/Na2AD8aHPx0
• Descending scree slope: https://youtu.be/5pgoDXFB-2Y
• Class 2 slab: https://youtu.be/GV56i5pyjXo
• Class 3: https://youtu.be/YGgK6H1IOds
• Loose chute: https://youtu.be/cnOhNzFpGC4
• Loose chute: https://youtu.be/0RLb8B5mLD8
• Talus: https://youtu.be/GYf29L7tTz8
• Eastern Sierra Transit – 395 bus routes: http://www.estransit.com/routes-schedule/395-routes/
• Equipment: http://www.knapsack.org/basic_equipment.html
• Leave No Trace: https://lnt.org/learn/7-principles

Conservation

The Sierra Club is an environmentally focused entity. We are concerned about conservation and the sustainability of resources, both locally and globally. Our work is accomplished by volunteers and aided by a salaried staff, encouraging grassroots involvement. Our outings seek to empower participants toward greater understanding, advocacy, and participation in the goals of the Club.

We will venture off-trail into pristine alpine lake basins, which appear today much as they must have to the early mountaineers of the 19th century. We will share the mountaineers' stories and their visions for ensuring the preservation of this treasured wilderness for many generations to come. As a group, we will diligently observe Leave No Trace principles, and invite discussion of current efforts to protect our wilderness lands.

While the area we're visiting has been protected, it continues to be threatened by outside forces such as climate change and pollution. Many of the surrounding areas are unprotected and face additional threats, such as logging and poorly planned development. We'll have an opportunity on our outing to discuss such threats, the importance of large protected areas for habitat resilience, and what we can do to support work on these issues. Participants are also encouraged to share information about other environmental issues, such as those in their local communities.

Visitors like us affect the wilderness. Our trip will provide a good opportunity to observe why it is important to minimize our impact and consider ways in which we can leave no trace. We may also discuss how wilderness practices have changed over the years and how they can be further improved, while at the same time allowing for a special experience in the wilderness.

Sierra Club National Outings is an equal opportunity provider and when applicable will operate under permits obtained from U.S. federal land agencies.