Hut-to-Hut Traverse of the Presidential Range, New Hampshire

The Trip

This is a strenuous and challenging hiking trip for people who want to experience the spectacular high peaks and ridges of the White Mountains of New Hampshire in mid-September when there are hints of fall colors. We will hike the Presidential Range—the highest and among the most beautiful mountains in the Northeast. We will spend our first night at an Appalachian Mountain Club (AMC) lodge and then four nights enjoying the comfort, cuisine, views, and camaraderie of three AMC high mountain huts. While at the second hut, we will hike up to the summit of Mount Washington (the highest peak in the Northeast). 

Some of the most thrilling hiking and spectacular scenery in the Eastern U.S. is in the 800,000-acre White Mountain National Forest (better known as “the Whites”), one of America’s most popular public lands, registering more visitors annually than Yellowstone and Yosemite combined. The area features many natural wonders, including magnificent rock formations (the most famous being The Old Man in the Mountain, which collapsed in 2003 but is still New Hampshire’s state symbol), as well as Flume Gorge, waterfalls, swimming holes, vast forests, spectacular open vistas, high peaks and ridges, and fragile alpine vegetation. The Presidential Range high peaks are the highest mountains in the Northeast, which culminate in the bare, schist metamorphic rock summit of Mount Washington (6,288 feet and “Home of the World’s Worst Weather”). We will summit numerous peaks, which may include Jackson, Pierce, Eisenhower, Monroe, Jefferson, and Madison among others. This range forms the longest stretch of the Appalachian Trail above tree line.

For large portions of this New Hampshire hiking trip, we will be above treeline in the alpine zone, where you will see krummholz (gnarled and stunted trees that survive where there is a bit of shelter from the violent winds), and tiny alpine flowers, some extremely rare. The flora is most similar to that of the eastern Canadian Arctic and Coastal Barrens.

The White Mountain National Forest is a managed and multiple-use forest (including six designated Federal Wilderness Areas) that provides areas for recreation, wildlife habitat, and harvesting of trees — a renewable resource. Moose, deer, fox, and black bear are abundant — as are more than 184 species of birds.

We will meet Day 1 at an AMC lodge to become familiar with both the hiking trip and the White Mountains, and to get to know each other over dinner. On Day 2, we hike up the Crawford Path to the first hut. On Day 3, we cross the southern section of the Presidential Range to the second hut — high on the flank of Mount Washington. On Day 4, we summit Mount Washington, where we will tour the weather station, and then descend via the Alpine Garden Trail back down to the second hut. On Day 5, we hike the northern section of the Presidential Range to the third hut for our last night in the mountains. On Day 6, we hike down the Valley Way Trail to Appalachia Parking Lot and our cars.

Day 1: We meet at an AMC lodge between 1:00 and 2:30 p.m. At 3:00 p.m. we will spot a few cars at the Appalachia Parking Lot, where we will end our trip on Day 6 (your cooperation and flexibility is needed to accomplish this). We have a meet and greet event at 4:00 p.m. to introduce ourselves and enjoy light refreshments. Afterward we will check our gear and discuss trip details, including equipment, clothing, Leave No Trace principles, trail etiquette, and our itinerary. Dinner is at 6:00 p.m. After dinner we will finish up our orientation and gear check. 

Day 2: Following our 7:00 a.m. breakfast, we gear up and hike 2.6 miles (1,900 feet of elevation gain) on the steep Crawford Path to the first hut (3,777 feet), where we will enjoy our lunch. In the afternoon, we take an optional 3.4-mile round-trip hike on moderate terrain across the ridge to Mt. Jackson (4,052 feet), our first summit (the mountain is named after Charles Thomas Jackson, an NH geologist in the 19th century).

Day 3: From the first hut we climb a very steep 535 feet to the summit of Mt. Pierce, above treeline, and remain above treeline until we descend on Day 6. We traverse the southern section of the Presidential Range on the Crawford Path/Appalachian Trail (AT) — 4.8 miles to the second hut (5,012 feet). After Mt. Pierce we hope to summit Mt. Eisenhower (4,760 feet) and later in the day, Mt. Monroe (5,372 feet). At the hut we acknowledge our day's accomplishments, put up our feet, stretch out, and (on a clear day) enjoy the 80-mile views. After dinner, keep an eye out for a spectacular sunset. 

Day 4: We start our morning ascending 1.5 miles (1,276 feet of elevation gain) to the summit of Mt. Washington (6,288 feet), the highest peak east of the Mississippi River and north of the Carolinas. The summit is also the terminus of the cog railway which was built in 1869 and is still in operation today. On the summit we will tour the Mount Washington Observatory weather station, enjoy our lunch, and explore. The Tip-Top House on the summit is a state historic site renovated with exhibits of Mt. Washington’s long and varied history as the site of several hotels, an old coach road from 1861, the cog railway, and the Observatory weather station.

Mount Washington is well worth the climb. The mountain is broad and massive with great ravines cut deeply into steep sides, leaving buttress ridges that reach up through the timberline. The timberline occurs at about 4,500-5,000 feet, the lowest in the world this close to the Equator, as a result of exposure to the mountain’s fierce wind and weather. The summit cone is covered with fragments of rock and almost devoid of vegetation, rising steeply above the 5,000-foot upper plateau.

The Mount Washington Observatory weather station performs weather and climate research along with innovative science education programs. It is one of only a handful of permanently staffed mountaintop stations in the world, and the only one of its kind in the Western Hemisphere. Mt. Washington’s location at the convergence of three major storm tracks, combined with its elevation and unique topography, create extraordinary weather extremes unlike anywhere on Earth. Our tour will provide an opportunity to meet and interact with the scientists, learn how they create forecasts, see the instruments they use to capture Mt. Washington's legendary extremes, and more.

The return to the second hut will follow a different route along the Alpine Garden Trail. We will look for the unique alpine plants that grow below the summit of Mt. Washington while we enjoy views of the Huntington and Tuckerman Ravines and beyond.

Day 5: We leave the second hut on the Crawford Path/AT and traverse the northern section of the Presidential Range on the Gulfside Trail/AT, traveling about 7 miles along open ridges and rock fields to the third hut (4,800 feet). This trail offers extensive views and the option to summit Mt. Jefferson (5,716 feet).

The name "Gulfside" was given by J. Rayner Edmands who, starting in 1892, located and constructed the greater part of the trail; sometimes following existing trails. Most of the trail is part of the Appalachian Trail, except for a very short segment at the south end. The Gulfside Trail forms the northwestern boundary of the Great Gulf Wilderness, though the path itself is not within the Wilderness.

Day 6: On the last day we hike down from the third hut 3.8 miles (3,500 feet of elevation loss) via the Valley Way Trail to the Appalachia Parking Lot. From there we carpool back to our cars at an AMC lodge, where we will say our goodbyes and wish everyone a safe trip home. We should be at the Appalachia Parking Lot by 1:00-1:30 p.m. and back to our cars by 2:00-2:30 p.m.

Please note that the itinerary may change due to weather, trail conditions, or other considerations.

Getting There

We meet at an AMC lodge for our pre-trip meeting and dinner. Detailed driving instructions will be provided to participants. An AMC lodge is located about 2 hours and 40 minutes (165 miles) from Boston’s Logan airport; 5 hours and 45 minutes (360 miles) from New York City’s major airports; and 1 hour and 50 minutes (120 miles) from Manchester Airport in New Hampshire. The best way to get there is to drive.

Please do not make travel arrangements until the leader has confirmed you as a trip member.

Accommodations and Food

Day 1: We will stay at a very comfortable AMC lodge. In the evening, we will be served a family-style dinner, and the next morning a hot and cold breakfast buffet will be available.

Days 2-5: We will stay in three of the AMC’s eight rustic high mountain huts, a highlight of the White Mountains. Each rustic hut offers tightly spaced, two or three high bunk beds in narrow bunk rooms, gender-specific washrooms, dinner, breakfast, and one-of-a-kind views! Lights in the common areas run on propane gas or solar power and go off at 9:30 p.m. (bring flashlights or headlamps for after-hours use). There are no linens, heat, or showers, but there are foam mattresses, three blankets, and a pillow for each guest. You must bring a sleep sack, sleeping bag liner, or sleeping bag (recommended) and pillowcase. The washrooms have composting toilets and only cold running water. You should bring a camp towel or washcloth.

Family-style dinner and breakfast in the huts, prepared from AMC recipes by the young hut staff, is basic, plentiful, and nutritious. Vegetarian and gluten-free options are usually available. Trip participants must supply their own lunches and snacks for the trail -- the leaders will offer suggestions on what to bring.

Trip Difficulty

Hiking in the White Mountains is strenuous and difficult. The trails tend to go straight up or down the mountains, with large boulders, rocks, tree roots, rivulets of water, and mud being part of the experience. If you have hiked only on graded trails, such as in the West, it is important to know that hiking in the Northeast is harder. Much of the time when hiking above treeline, you will be walking from rock to rock to rock to rock. Sturdy hiking shoes with ankle support are strongly suggested. You must be in very good physical condition with no foot, ankle, knee, leg, or hip problems. You must be prepared to hike up to seven miles and gain or lose 3,000 feet of elevation on very tough terrain in a day. With all gear, food, and water, you can expect your pack to weigh between 20 and 24 pounds. We will offer advice on how to keep your pack weight down. We will hike at a relaxed pace due to the difficult terrain, but you should be able to maintain a hiking pace of at least 1 mph on steep ascents and descents and 2-3 mph on level ground. If you tend to hike in the rear with slower hikers when with a group, this may not be the trip for you. Contact the leader if you wish to discuss your suitability before signing up.

Safety is paramount and we will be prepared for rain, high winds, and cold weather, or even sleety and snowy conditions. These are serious mountains. Hikers head up the mountain on a beautiful day and find themselves above tree line unprepared for the severe weather, dangerously high winds, and violent storms that can occur. One of the fastest non-tornado winds ever recorded on the surface of the earth was on Mt. Washington in 1931 at 231 mph. The worst winter wind chills on the top of Mt. Washington are about as bad as the worst wind chills found in Antarctica! 

Needless to say, we will be prepared for a fun and safe trip. We will carefully monitor the daily “summits” weather report from the Mt. Washington Observatory weather station and adjust plans accordingly.

Equipment and Clothing

You will need comfortable hiking clothes for a wide range of temperatures (temps on Mt. Washington can go below freezing), well-broken-in boots, a full rain suit (including jacket and pants for high winds and rain), a sheet sack or sleeping bag liner and pillowcase (or light sleeping bag), personal toiletries, a large sturdy pack (approx. 40-55 liters), and pack cover (we recommend packing gear in plastic bags as well). We will provide a detailed clothing and equipment list to confirmed participants. Please note: only man-made fabrics or wool should be used on this trip; please don’t pack cotton.

References

Log onto http://www.outdoors.org/; or try http://www.fs.usda.gov/whitemountain/ for information about the White Mountains. The Appalachian Mountain Club White Mountain Guide offers the most detailed trail descriptions and maps. 

Conservation

As on all Sierra Club outings, members are expected to show concern and consideration for the environment and to behave appropriately as members of a conservation organization. We will recycle everything we can, pack out what we pack in, and hope to be good examples and teachers of conservation practices: staying on trails, not picking wildflowers, etc. On this trip where we will spend a good deal of time above treeline, we will take special care to stay on the trail and/or walk on rocks to protect the fragile alpine vegetation. Above treeline, the extreme weather and a short growing season make the vegetation especially fragile. During our trip we will learn about the alpine environment and green hut technologies through presentations by the hut staff.

Sierra Club National Outings is an equal-opportunity provider and will operate under a permit from White Mountain National Forest.