Raft the Wild and Scenic John Day River: A High Desert Adventure through the Columbia Plateau, Oregon

The Trip

Join us on this 6-day rafting adventure down the longest free-flowing river west of the Rockies! Paddle a raft, inflatable kayak, or SUP through towering, steep-walled desert canyons formed as the river carves through the thick basalt flows of the Columbia River Plateau on this class I-III stretch of the John Day River. Seek out families of big horn sheep, elusive noisy chukars (an upland game bird), and high soaring ferruginous hawks as we drift the river on a quiet morning. Cool off paddling through rapids or take a lazy swim in refreshing clear river water. Rise with the sun, grab a cup of coffee, and head to the river’s edge for a bit of catch and release in what’s considered some of the best small-mouth bass fishing in the country while our river guides prepare breakfast. Travel through the Columbia Gorge, taking hikes to see famous waterfalls. Seek out fossils and learn about the human and geologic history of this unique, remote part of Oregon.

Beginning and ending in Portland, Oregon, our outfitter will transport us to and from the river. We’ll make several stops along the Historic Columbia River Highway -- considered by many to be the country’s first scenic highway -- as we head east to our first night’s campground along the John Day River. The original highway was constructed between 1913 and 1922 to allow travelers to reach the spectacular waterfalls and views of the Gorge. Waterfalls abound as creeks tumble over cliffs of dark basalt. Along the way we stop to hike and photograph these vistas and waterfalls, including the famous Multnomah Falls.

Next on our route is the “Clarno Unit” of John Day Fossil Beds. We can see prominent palisades that formed from the erosion of 54-40-million-year-old volcanic lahars and mudflows. Preserved within the rocks here are fossils of a semi-tropical rainforest environment where huge rhino-like brontotheres, tiny four-toed horses, and meat-eating oreodonts once roamed ancient jungles. Over 170 species of diverse plant life is recorded in the fossilized leaves, fruits, nuts, seeds, and petrified wood here.

The Columbia Plateau has a rich history of pioneers, homesteaders, and ranchers trying to scratch out a living in the desert shrub-steppe habitat. At the start of our river journey, fruit trees and dilapidated barns are sometimes all that’s left of homesteads that once existed along the river. Floating downstream, we leave evidence of human settlement behind as the dark canyon walls rise sharply above the river, in places, rendering the shore inaccessible to all but the agile bighorn sheep.

Over 5 days we explore a 70-mile stretch of this 281-mile-long undammed river, one of the longest Wild and Scenic River corridors. Designated in 1988, the John Day River is protected by both the National Wild and Scenic Rivers Act and the Oregon Scenic Waterways Act. Together these two acts provide the best protection available for the river environment. Most of the lands surrounding the river canyon that we traverse have been designated as a BLM Wilderness Study Area or purchased by the Western Rivers Conservancy to be placed under management that will conserve, protect, and restore native habitat.

All Sierra Club domestic trips, whether past or present, are being conducted on originally Native American lands. The John Day watershed was originally held by the Western Columbia River Sahaptins—more commonly known as the Tenino or Warm Springs, the Wyampam, and the John Day. The archaeological record supports over ten thousand years of continuous human use of the main John Day River watershed. Members of the Confederated Tribes of the Umatilla Indian Reservation, the Confederated Tribes of Warm Springs, and the Burns Paiute Tribe continue to use the river corridor for hunting, fishing, and other activities. The Sierra Club supports and respects First People’s enduring relationship and their traditional values of honoring and protecting planet Earth.

Day 1: The trip starts at our meeting point in Portland the morning of day 1. As we leave the city, we turn off the interstate and travel back in time to the 1930s on the historic Columbia River Highway where we'll make several stops to learn about the Columbia River Gorge and take photos of the spectacular scenery. We then continue east to enjoy a picnic lunch at Deschutes River State Recreation Area, where the Wild and Scenic Deschutes River empties into the Columbia, and forms the gateway to the Lower Deschutes Wildlife Area. This oasis is known for word-class steelhead and trout fishing as well as being a hub for mountain biking, hiking, and white-water rafting.

Following lunch, we head inland to the John Day Country. Our route climbs steeply from the Columbia River Gorge to the top of the Columbia River Plateau. We continue to our first night’s campsite along the John Day River where we meet our guides, set up camp, and pack our dry bags in preparation for launching onto the river the next morning.

Day 2: A 45-minute drive takes us to our river put-in downstream from camp. As our guides load the rafts, we have time to seek out fossils and stretch our legs along the way. Following a safety briefing, we set off down river, watching for evidence of early homesteads. We stop and scout our biggest rapid, “Clarno” (class III), a long boulder-strewn curve in the river. After running “Clarno,” we break out the inflatable kayaks and stand-up paddle board. Soon we reach our first river camp and settle into “river time.” 

Day 3-5: Each day we paddle on downriver, deeper into the canyon, listening to the river, and looking for wildlife. Keep an ever-watchful eye for chukars, great blue herons, mergansers, bighorn sheep and more. Take time to try out an inflatable kayak or SUP, swim, and relax. We move to a new river campsite each day, and once we help unload the rafts and set up our individual tent site, there will be opportunities to hike (although limited by the terrain of the canyon), swim, read, fish, or play music. Our guides will treat us to appetizers and a tasty dinner. Miles from any city lights, revel in the star-filled sky. Morning brings sunrise and early coffee to get us out of bed. After packing our tents and enjoying a hearty breakfast, we load the rafts and set off to explore the next bend in the river.

Day 6: As we emerge from the steep-walled canyon, once again we begin to see evidence of human settlement along the shore. We reach take-out at Cottonwood Bridge near Oregon’s new Cottonwood Canyon State Park. Here we unpack and deflate the rafts, load up the vans for our ride back to Portland and say farewell to our river guides. As the exact time of arrival back to Portland cannot be guaranteed, plan to stay the night, clean-up, and join a no-host dinner at a restaurant near the airport. 

Please note: the trip price does not include gratuities for the river guides. Gratuities are entirely voluntary and solely at your discretion, but they are customary. The guides work hard day and night to make this trip as memorable and fulfilling for you as possible. If you agree they worked hard and contributed significantly to the success and enjoyment of your outing, you may want to express your appreciation with a tip. A guideline of 9-18% of the trip price per guest is appropriate. Your Sierra Club trip leader does not share any portion of the gratuity; leaders are unpaid volunteers and cannot accept them. 

Getting There

Participants are responsible for travel arrangements to our meeting place in Portland, OR.

Simplest is to fly to Portland, OR and take a shuttle to the hotel meeting point. Plan to arrive in Portland the day before the trip begins to ensure both you and your luggage are on time for the morning rendezvous on day 1.

For those guests who choose to drive to Portland, the group meets at a hotel offering long term parking at a modest rate where you can leave your car.

All transportation from Portland, Oregon to the river and back to Portland will be provided.

Please do not make non-refundable travel arrangements until notified to do so by the trip leader.

Accommodations and Food

Our trip begins in Portland, Oregon where our outfitter will meet us at a designated hotel near the airport. The morning of our first day, vans will transport us along the Columbia River Gorge to the river put-in for the start of our river trip and then return us to Portland once arriving at the end of our trip down the John Day River. The trip leader will notify participants of the meeting location in Portland, as well as additional travel tips.

Camping gear will be provided for the duration of the trip, including the first night at a public campground upstream from our river put in. 

All meals are included once we leave Portland, from lunch on day 1 through lunch on the last day. Remember to eat breakfast and bring a snack before you arrive at our meeting place the first morning. Please indicate any dietary issues on your application form; the outfitter can accommodate some (but not all) special diets.

Water, juice, and sodas are provided, but alcoholic beverages are not. You may bring a limited supply of your own in aluminum cans or plastic bottles. Transfer any wine or liquor to plastic containers to avoid any chance of broken glass. 

Trip Difficulty

The rapids on this mild stretch of the John Day River are considered Class I-III. The pace of the trip will be leisurely, allowing plenty of time for paddling, swimming, hiking, fishing, and photography. It is a great trip for novice and experienced river aficionados alike. No previous rafting experience is necessary.

Daytime temperatures may be in the mid 70s to 85 F, offset by the refreshing water and lots of swimming. Nighttime lows will be in the 50s to low 60s. Thunderstorms with hail are possible, but rare, in June.

We have an excellent safety record and make every effort to ensure a safe trip. However, whitewater boating, hiking, and wilderness travel involve some risks. Physical challenges are inherent in rafting. You must be in good health and willing to participate in trip chores and activities. Trip members are expected to assist in loading and unloading the rafts. 

Participants must be able to safely climb into and out of boats; walk over uneven, possibly rocky, or muddy terrain; take care of their personal needs; and attend to their own tent sites. They need to be able to swim in current and assist in their own rescue in the event of an unplanned swim while paddling through a rapid.

We always follow the Leave No Trace rules for Western river corridors, so we will use a chemical system for solid waste that will travel with us down the river. It will be set up at camp each night in a secluded and scenic spot with ample toilet paper provided. Liquid waste (urine) is best disposed of in the river, as the river is much more biologically active than the land. There will be a pee bucket next to the toilet at camp for nighttime use. All part of the adventure of being outdoors! The Sierra Club leader and river guides emphasize cleanliness (hand washing) all the time while on the river. The goal is to stay healthy and minimize our impact on the environment.

We will provide life jackets for all ages. A combination of paddle-rafts, inflatable kayaks, and stand-up paddle boards, supported by an oar boat or two, provide variety to the river experience. Our side-canyon explorations are limited by the canyon walls but will range from easy walks to more difficult hikes that require some scrambling. Although these hikes will be optional, good physical condition is important in any wilderness outing. For maximum enjoyment of the river canyon experience, we strongly recommend that you engage in a program of regular exercise prior to the trip.

Equipment and Clothing

All camping gear, including tent, sleeping bag, pad, cup, and camp chair are provided.

Although we are in desert country, we may experience an afternoon thunderstorm, so rain gear that can also double as wind protection is recommended. There will be plenty of sunshine, so bring waterproof sunscreen, a wide-brimmed hat, and clothing that provides sun protection. Gloves for paddling and sun exposure are also recommended. You will want shoes that can get wet while on the river and a second pair of dry shoes for hiking. And of course, we never know when the mosquito hatch will take place year to year, so pack insect repellant too.

Your trip leader will provide a detailed equipment list upon approval for this trip. 

References

Books:

• Sternberg, Charles H., Expedition to the John Day RIVER in 1878: an Excerpt from Life of a Fossil Hunter.
• Campbell, Arthur, John Day River: Drift and Historical Guide. (Out of print, available used but expensive, check availability at your local library.)

Websites:

• The BLM has published a comprehensive guidebook, currently only available online at: https://www.blm.gov/sites/default/files/docs/2022-03/orwa-jdr-rec-guide.pdf
• Western Rivers Conservancy’s blog post on the John Day River: https://www.westernrivers.org/discover/blog/where-to-float-hike-fish-and-camp-on-the-lower-john-day-river
• Learn more about the John Day Fossil Beds Clarno Unit: https://www.nps.gov/joda/planyourvisit/clarno.htm

Conservation

We will discuss conservation issues of this area of the world as we encounter them. Some topics include background on the Wild and Scenic Rivers Act, land acquisition and habitat restoration in desert environments, alternative energy development, recovery of bighorn sheep population, and threats to native fish populations. The river provides ideal habitat for summer steelhead and spring Chinook salmon, but fishing these threatened species has been recently closed to conserve their populations.

Sierra Club National Outings is an equal-opportunity provider and when applicable will operate under permits obtained from U.S. federal land agencies.