Rafting and Backpacking the Talkeetna River, Alaska

The Trip

This trip takes full advantage of all the magnificence of the Talkeetna Mountains. Early departure provides exceptional viewing of Mount Denali as our bush plane rises above the mist, heading north and east. Our destination is a remote lake, deep in the Talkeetna Mountains. By mid-day we begin our backpack trek, gradually descending to the confluence of the Talkeetna River and Aspen Creek.

The Talkeetna Mountains (Dghelaay tahwt’aene in Ahtna), loosely translated means “Land of Plenty." Consisting of a compact group of radial ridges, the mountains occupy a rugged oval area about 100 miles from north to south and 70 miles from east to west. High sharp-crested ridges in the east give way in the western flank to rounded and subdued ridgetops shaped by glaciers during the Pleistocene Epoch (about 2,600,000 to 11,700 years ago). Glaciers are still present at the heads of many valleys in the Talkeetnas. The mountains are home to many large mammals, including grizzly/brown bears, black bears, moose, caribou, wolves, wolverines, and Dall sheep. Wolves and bald eagles—as well as smaller mammals and birds like beaver, porcupine, red squirrels, and fox sparrows—call the surrounding area their home. Three days later, with Talkeetna Glacier, the headwater to the Talkeetna River, in the distance, we meet up with our rafting crew, ready to begin the rafting leg of our journey.

The Talkeetna River is reputedly Alaska's premier whitewater wilderness trip. Of its 70 miles, 17 are continuous Class III-IV rapids through narrow Talkeetna Canyon. With closed-in canyon walls, lush trees, graceful ferns, paper birch, alder thickets, and fascinating driftwood sculptures lining the braided riverbed it is easy to see why the river is called Talkeetna the "river of plenty." The river opens to valleys that host one of the largest grizzly and black bear populations of Alaska's interior rivers. Clear side streams entering the river make natural resting places for spawning salmon. Every summer, these salmon run up the river by the thousands, choking its tributaries and, in the course, becoming a feeding ground for bears, bald eagles—and anglers. Silver salmon runs occur in late July through early August. Dolly Varden, Arctic Grayling, and catch-and-release Rainbow Trout also add to the potential catch. As we make our way down river, we'll have time for fishing, photography, day-hiking, or just relaxing in camp.

On the last day, we will load our rafts one more time for our float back to the town of Talkeetna. The river broadens as we take in a north and west viewscape of Denali. Once back in town the trip ends, and folks collect their gear waiting for them at the airport, check into a room, and clean up. Hopefully we will meet once more, fresh and clean, for a last night/first reunion meal, celebrating friendship and wilderness, before departing the next morning.

Pre-trip: Once checked into your hotel, you will have an opportunity to take in the colorful community of Talkeetna, regarded as the classic model for the TV series “Northern Exposure." The evening prior to the trip departure, we will have a mandatory orientation meeting. At the meeting, equipment will be reviewed, and you will receive your last-minute instructions for the next day and be fitted for river gear.

Day 1: The day begins early. Everyone will meet at the Talkeetna Airport. Our adventure begins with a bush plane flight to our landing deep in the Talkeetna Mountains. If the weather doesn't cause any delay, we’ll embark on our journey by mid-afternoon, working our way to the evening’s campsite.

Days 2-3: Our group will be backpacking west and south across mountain passes, valleys, streams, rocks, and creeks as we make our way down to the river. Mid-day on day three we meet up with our crew and river equipment near the confluence of the Talkeetna River and Aspen Creek and transition to river running.

Days 3-7: Our rafting experience begins as we float downriver on the famed Talkeetna River. As we adjust to rafting, our first river campsite target will be above Talkeetna Canyon. Of its 70 miles, 17 are Class III-IV rapids through Talkeetna Canyon. We will go with the flow as the river allows. On the last day we will load our rafts one more time for our float back to the village of Talkeetna, arriving no earlier than mid-afternoon. Weather in the Talkeetnas is subject to rapid changes. This may affect trip logistics or river flow rate, and may result in variations in days backpacking or rafting.

Getting There

This trip begins and ends in the town of Talkeetna. Located 14 miles off the George Parks Highway (Hwy 3), this small and quaint town has almost everything within a short walk. A colorful community, it is often regarded as the classic model for the TV show “Northern Exposure." The junction is 100 miles north of Anchorage, 138 miles south of the Denali National Park and Preserve main entrance, and 259 miles south of Fairbanks. Plan on arriving two days before the trip begins. This provides time to aclimatize and check out the local color. Please do not plan arriving the same day as our orientation meeting as most of that day will be spent exhausively traveling to Anchorage, then by rail or car to Talkeetna.

Anchorage, the customary entrance into central Alaska, is served by several major airlines including Alaska Airlines, American Airlines, JetBlue, Delta, Sun Country Airlines, Penair, United, Era Aviation, and Grant Aviation. The town of Talkeetna also has a small airport. It is used for small craft air tours and air taxi services focused on tourism and fishing. Though connector flights from Anchorage can be found, other less expensive modalities are available.

The Alaska Railroad (800-544-0552 or 907-265-2623, https://www.alaskarailroad.com/travel-planning) leaves Anchorage northbound daily in the early morning and arrives in Talkeetna in the early afternoon. A train also leaves Fairbanks southbound daily with stops at Denali National Park and Talkeetna. Although you should arrive back in Talkeetna in time to catch the southbound train to Anchorage on the last day of the trip, by taking the train you will miss the camaraderie of the farewell dinner. Also, we can't anticipate that our arrival in Talkeetna will coincide with the train departure.

An alternative is to rent a car in Anchorage or Fairbanks. Another choice is to use the Talkeetna Shuttle Service (888-288-6008 or 907-733-1725) between Anchorage and Talkeetna.

A great reference and summary for travel can be found at http://www.talkeetnachamber.org/how-to-get-here-and-maps.

Please do not make non-refundable travel arrangements until notified to do so by the trip leader.

Accommodations and Food

The small town of Talkeetna is a launch point for many adventures in the region. There are many options for accommodations and dining. August is a very busy time in Talkeetna, so reservations should be made as soon as you are approved for the trip by the trip leader. A great reference and summary can be found at http://www.talkeetnachamber.org/directory/category/lodging. You should not need a reservation for any eatery unless perhaps the train is in town.

All meals from lunch on the first day through lunch on the last day are provided as part of the trip cost. Your leader and guides will do most of the cooking, and you are welcome to pitch in. When rafting, delicious, well-balanced meals with fresh ingredients will be cooked every day in camp by the crew. Juices, sodas, coffee, tea, and cocoa will be provided. You may bring moderate amounts of alcoholic beverages in cans or plastic bottles -- no glass bottles on this trip.

Please indicate any dietary issues on the questionnaire for each member of your party. Most common dietary requirements can be planned for, but you must notify the trip leader in advance and provide detailed information in the form package you will receive from the Sierra Club Outings Office.

Trip Difficulty

It is strongly recommend that you engage in a program of regular exercise prior to the trip. This trip should be considered an “active” vacation, since you will be backpacking and rafting, packing and unpacking gear, setting up tents, and participating in side hikes. These activities, taken together with the adversity of a wilderness environment, can be physically demanding if you are not in shape.

Please consider both sections of this trip prior to signing up. The backpacking portion could be considered a 4 on a scale of 5 difficulty. Terrain consists of rocky, shrubby, and forested land with hiking along glacier skirting, elevation gains of at least 1,500 feet, and a cobbled descent in forested lands as we approach the river. Rafting the Talkeetna River Canyon stretch includes a long, continuous Class III-IV run. You should have some experience in whitewater rafting and know how to swim. The remainder is a gentler float.

You are expected to assist in the loading and unloading of duffel and other equipment on and off the plane and rafts, and to help carry them to and from the campsites. You are expected to manage your backpack and equipment. Each person must be able to take care of his or her personal needs, attend to his or her own campsite, and prioritize carrying and helping with common equipment before setting his or her individual tent.

Although the trip leader makes every effort to ensure a safe trip and has an excellent safety record, backpacking, whitewater rafting, hiking, and wilderness travel involve some risks. Some challenges and risks are inherent when trekking through wildernness. There is always a chance for injury, personal gear can get wet or broken, and travel delays can occur. You elect to participate at your own risk, and you must be in good health and willing to participate in trip chores and activities. No solo hikes or stream crossing will be allowed on this trip.

Travel and medical insurance are recommended.

Equipment and Clothing

Guests are responsible for bringing adequate gear and clothing for the entire trip. There will be a weight restriction on the bush plane so keep gear to a minimum. Your leader will be discussing weight limits in detail with you prior to your leaving for the trip. As you prepare for this adventure, know that cotton and denim are not acceptable hiking attire, especially in wet Alaska. The trip leader recommends clothing and gear made from breathable, moisture-wicking materials like nylon, polyester, wool, Gore-Tex or Capilene. A detailed gear list will be sent to all approved participants.

Early August is generally mild and varied. Temperatures can range from the 40s to the 70s. The Alaska summer is like spring or fall in other parts of the country. Rain is probable for at least some portion of the trip. It is often said in Alaska “If you don’t like the weather now…wait 15 minutes." If you are prepared and can greet adverse weather as part of the adventure and not as an ordeal, you will enjoy this trip. Because of the unpredictable weather, it is imperative that your equipment be lightweight, high quality, and capable of keeping you absolutely dry and warm.

Please note: 

• Under some conditions the Talkeetna Mountains can be difficult hiking. Keeping your pack weight to a minimum will make your hike more enjoyable.
• Weight restrictions are enforced on the bush plane so check with the leader and pre-weigh your backpack at home.
• Please do not bring drones.
• You will be trekking through active bear territory. ALL items with an odor must fit into a bear-resistant food container (provided).

References

Listed below are several books and magazine articles with a range of topics specific to the Talkeetna area to those related to Alaska in general:

• Michener, James, Alaska. Random House, 1988.
• “This is my Town: Talkeetna,” Roberta Sheldon. Alaska volume 1, (January 1985), pp 14. RID: bak06874.
• “Daredevil Pilots Take Glacier Flying to New Heights,” Jon Krakauer. Smithsonian, volume 19, number 10 (January 1989), pp. 97-107. RID: bak0010276.
• “In Search of Strong Spirits: The Shadow of Mt. McKinley,” Roger Fitzgerald. Alaska Fisherman's Journal volume 8 (June 1985), pp 22. RID: bak00-072121.
• “Mary Carey: Living Proof That Alaska Is Indeed for Women,” S. J. Birdsall. Senior Voice volume 7 (September 1984), pp 15. RID: bak00-065587.
• “Talkeetna Caribou,” Alan R. Nelson. Alaska Outdoors volume 8 (August 1985), pp 24. RID: bak00-07469.
• "Talkeetna Hosts Bluegrass—Alaska Style," Kevin Cassity. Alaska volume 46 (August 1980), pp A17. RID: bak00025666.
• “Talkeetna River Project, Alaska: Final Environmental Impact Statement,” United States Army Corps of Engineers. Alaska District. The District, 1975. ii, 58, [60] p.: RID: wln80-040673. RES 333.95 UNI.
• “Two in the Far North,” Margaret Murie. Anchorage: Alaska Northwest Publ., 1986.
• If you want a description of every town and village with all the shops and guides and services and transportation, purchase a copy of the latest The Milepost guidebook, which can be found nearly everywhere, including grocery-store check-out aisles. It has everything you could imagine for planning a pre- or post-trip in Alaska. It even includes a large Alaska map. You can order a copy from Vernon Publications (800-726-4707). The new summer edition will be available in early March.

Conservation

We will discuss current conservation issues confronting Alaska and the Talkeetna region in particular. As a case in point, the first days of our trip will be spent in true wilderness, but below Talkeetna Canyon on the last day, access roads, cabins, anglers, and rafters without permits will become evident. Although this won't spoil our trip, it will bring up issues of invasive versus more passive land use.

The impact of tourism is another issue to be discussed. It wasn't long ago, for example, that the train through Talkeetna to Denali and beyond had a single dome car. Now, during the summer, there may be up to 20 dome cars, in addition to the many tour busses. How can Denali National Park cope with these numbers of visitors and still protect land and animal resources?

The proposal to drill for oil in the pristine Arctic National Wildlife Preserve to the north is another hot issue that certainly merits discussion.

The recent re-emergence of the Pebble Mine is also a key issue that will be discussed.

Sierra Club National Outings is an equal-opportunity provider and when applicable will operate under permits obtained from U.S. federal land agencies.