Re-wilding Patagonia National Park, Chile

The Trip

Patagonia — the word conjures images of untamed wildness, unbounded vistas, solitude, and magnificence. Some parts of Patagonia have been discovered and developed and are meccas for travelers from all over the world. Yet other parts of Patagonia are more remote and elusive, providing the adventurous traveler with a taste of both the authentic culture and wildness that is truly Patagonia. This trip journeys to one of these remote areas, rich with examples of the juxtaposition of conservation and tradition, and affords one an intimate experience like no other.

Over 25 years ago, Doug Tompkins -- former dirtbag climber, The North Face founder and Esprit clothing magnate -- sold everything and moved to a remote island in Chilean Patagonia. Unknown even to him at the time, he was beginning a quest that would lead to one of the largest acts of wilderness philanthropy yet to be seen in our world. Doug Tompkins and his wife Kris began to buy estancias (ranches) and large tracts of land in Patagonia with the vision of conservation or, in their words, to “pay rent for living on the planet.” During this period, the Tompkins bought over a million acres of land in Patagonia. They began conservation practices on these parcels, now called “re-wilding,” that consisted of removing fences removal, using sustainable livestock practices, and protecting endangered and threatened species.Their organization was named Tompkins Conservation, and history was in the making.

In the early 2000s, Tompkins Conservation started the process to develop and create public access to their lands. They started adding amenities such as trails, campgrounds, and information kiosks. They began plans to build an impressive yet sublime museum to educate visitors. The idea was not to keep these lands private, but invite people to experience, enjoy, and then ultimately protect these cherished lands.

In 2019, Chilean president Michelle Bachelet signed into creation two massive new national parks Patagonia: Pumalín and Patagonia National Parks. Tompkins Conservation would donate to the Chilean government the vast swaths of land acquired by their philanthropy over the course of 25 years—and the government would, for its part, put 9 million acres of southern Chile under new protection. Together, the new parks will preserve nearly 10 million acres of wildlands, an area three times the size of Yosemite and Yellowstone National Parks combined. The creation of Patagonia National Park is one of the biggest conservation success stories in history—and it’s as controversial as it is ambitious. The new national park represents a monumental shift in how humans will interact with this landscape. As such, the project has sparked furious debate. Some people have resisted the conversion of rangeland to wilderness preservation, while others have embraced this evolution. 

This trip takes place in Chile’s Aysén Region, the most remote and sparsely populated part of Patagonia. This trip was developed in concert with words of wisdom from Kris Tompkins: “It’s easy to understand that clean water, pure air, and healthy soil are essential to life. But wild spaces also have the power to nurture our well-being and restore our ties to something greater than ourselves. Create experiences that remove the boundaries that ordinarily stretch between us and the natural world. Take away the cars, phones, and faucets. Take away the beds that separate our backs from the ground. Invite our bodies into the presence borne from plunging into glacial lakes. Dissolve the distance that spreads between us and our human-as-animal selves.” We have the rare opportunity to witness the Aysen region of Patagonia as well as Patagonia National Park at its very beginning. Patagonia National Park offers a window into the broader initiative and tensions within the environmental movement. It is a complex initiative, and we hope it will serve as a valuable launching point for challenging, useful discussions on our journey about the future of conservation and land management in the 21st century. Join us!

Day 1: We meet in the Aysen region’s capital of Coyhaique. We enjoy introductions to our fellow travelers and guides at a welcome dinner at a lovely hotel overlooking the town.

Day 2: We head south! After a 2-hour drive, our first day will take us on a spectacular dayhike of about 7 miles and 1,500 feet of elevation, overlooking Lago General Carrera, from the border town of Puerto Ibanez. We will return for a traditional dinner at the campo where we spend the night.

Day 3: After breakfast we travel via a spectacular 2-hour ferry journey, with sweeping views east to Argentina and west to the Northern Patagonian Ice Field, crossing Lago General Carrera to arrive in the small town of Chile Chico. From there, we take a 1.5-hour transfer into the Jeinimeni sector of Patagonia National Park, where we set up a front-country camp on the shores of deep-blue Lago Jeinimeni. From there, we jump into a dayhike around the shores of the lake, about 6 miles and little elevation gain. We’ll enjoy the lenga (beech) forest, lake views, and mountain vistas along the way. Tonight we camp at the lake.

Day 4: After waking up to beautiful mountain views, we drive north to the wild rock formations of Valle de La Luna, where we explore the desert ecosystems through a loop trail of about 4.2 miles with moderate elevation gain. After the hike, we drive a final 1.5 hours along the shores of the lake to a family ranch, where we’ll get oriented for the horse-supported backcountry days, talking through systems for horse-packing and backcountry living. Those who want to swim in the clear waters of Lago General Carrera are encouraged to do so! We spend the night at a cozy ranch house.

Day 5: After a hearty breakfast at the ranch, we pack up and head into the mountains. We meet the local families who will support our trek, as well as their horses! After dividing and organizing food and gear for the horses to carry, we set off on our trek of about 5 miles and 2,500 feet. We start off winding through a traditional Patagonian campo before heading higher into the mountains. The uphill makes us grateful to the horses carrying the bulk of our gear! Our campsite is a spectacular perch overlooking the Jeinimeni Mountains, where we have the opportunity to spend time with an experienced gaucho tending sheep in the high mountains. In the evening, we gather around a fire for conversation about Patagonian history and culture. We camp in our tents tonight.

Day 6: After breakfast and morning reflections, we begin our day climbing higher on a dramatic plateau, which, on a clear day, affords sweeping views down to Lago General Carrera, across to the Northern Patagonian Ice Field. We spend most of the day hiking above tree-line, through strange colored rock formations, before descending to our idyllic camp in a lush valley, surrounded by hanging glaciers. The entire hike is about 8 miles with a 1,200 foot elevation gain. The horses meet us here. In the evening, we gather to learn more about the establishment of nearby Patagonia National Park. We spend another night in our tents.

Day 7: Our final hiking day takes us through beautiful southern beech forest and glacial valleys as we make our way back toward Lago General Carrera. As we near our pick-up point, we return to the land of Patagonian campos. With our longest day of about 10 miles, mostly downhill, complete, we return to the lakeside ranch for a celebratory dinner, a big traditional asado al palo (barbecue over an open fire), and enjoy an indoor sleep at our cozy ranch house!

Day 8: Today we transition to the center of Patagonia National Park, a newly created park often called the Yellowstone of South America. After a breakfast and a morning coffee or mate or two, we drive 1.5 hours to the Aviles Valley Trailhead, where we set off for a dramatic 9-mile loop hike with about 1,500 foot gain and loss through the colorful red mountains and glacially formed plateaus that make this side valley unique. That evening, we camp at the comfortable front-country campsite located at a historic ranch building, Casa Piedra. If we are lucky we may catch a fleeting glimpse or find sign of the elusive pumas that live nearby.

Day 9: To explore another area of the park, we drive 30 minutes east toward Argentina, watching the landscape transition to Patagonian steppe. We arrive at the Lago Chico trailhead and begin this glorious 7 mile, 800 foot elevation, loop hike, with sweeping views of the immense Lago Cochrane, the transnational lake that forms the park’s southern border. On clear days, we may catch a glimpse of Cerro San Lorenzo, Patagonia’s second-highest peak. Once we finish our hike, we are rewarded with a drive west through the Chacabuco Valley, the heart of Patagonia National Park, to the elegant Lodge at Valle Chacabuco, a beautiful ecolodge at the heart of the park. A visit to the museum envisioned and realized by Tompkins Conservation is a highlight. Prepare to be awed!

Day 10: On our final day in Patagonia National Park, we have two options. Those looking for a challenging, stunning finale can tackle the 12-mile, 2,500-foot elevation gain Lagunas Altas loop, named one of Patagonia’s five best trails, with panoramic views and varied terrain. Those looking for a mellower option can hike through the expansive grasslands of the Chacabuco Valley to a new suspension bridge high over a river canyon, approximately 7 miles with minimal elevation gain. That evening, we return to the Lodge at Valle Chacabuco.

Day 11: Road trip north! We wake early to head north up the Carretera Austral, or Southern Highway, often called one of the world’s great road trips. We drive along the turquoise Baker River, stopping at the confluence, and then arrive at Puerto Tranquilo. Here we take a kayak or boat, weather dependent, to view the unique marble caves that are found in the lake. We spend the night here and enjoy a farewell dinner.

Day 12: Our final day has us traveling near the eastern border of the Northern Patagonian Ice Field. We pass majestic Cerro Castillo and keep an eye out for huemules, the endangered deer-like animal found in the area. Whether you fly out this afternoon or stay one more night, we say farewell until the next time to this piece of paradise.

Please note that plans shift often in this part of Patagonia due to weather, logistics, and more. We ask you to embrace the spontaneity and continual evolution that is remote/backcountry travel.

Getting There

The trip starts and ends in Balmaceda, Aysen, Chile. Balmaceda is essentially an airport locale about 40 minutes from the main town of Aysen, Coyhaique. You can fly from Santiago, Chile to Balmaceda on a few airlines. The leader will provide detailed information about booking your flights and transferring to Coyhaique. Please do not make non-refundable travel arrangements until notified to do so by the trip leader.

Accommodations and Food

This trip was designed to immerse everyone into the land, culture and true heart of Patagonia. As such, we have the most diversity in terms of accommodations in order to have a variety of deep experiences. Our accommodations range from camping in your own tent to luxuriating in 3 separate lodges on the trip, with some ranch stays interspersed! The camping we are doing will be pleasant, but it's definitely not glamping. You must be comfortable sleeping on the ground in your tent for 5 nights, with an additional 2 nights in a ranch house with 7 bedrooms, and 4 nights in wonderful ecolodges. The campsites have sheltered areas for eating, water, toilets, and a couple have showers!

Our dining will vary from sumptuous breakfasts and dinners to Chilean barbecues to picnic lunches to stovetop meals. You may even develop a taste for the national beverage, mate! The food is plentiful, delicious, and healthy. Vegetarians can be accommodated.

Trip Difficulty

This trip is designed for the adventurous traveler who enjoys hiking, a mix of camping and lodge stays, and doesn’t mind a little dust. It is open to adults of all ages, as long as you are in good health, get regular exercise, and enjoy traveling with a group of like-minded souls. While most of the hikes are 7-10 miles long, some involve significant elevation gain and steep stretches on trails that can be muddy or rocky. It is a very active trip. Aerobic fitness, strong legs, and a positive outlook are essential to your enjoyment.

Patagonian weather is notorious for its ability to change. You must be prepared for wind and rain at any time. Expect daytime temperatures that range from the mid-50s to the mid-70s and nighttime lows in the 40s.

Equipment and Clothing

You will need high-quality rain and personal camping gear. Our pack horses have a weight limit when we are in the back country, so you cannot bring the kitchen sink! The leader will provide you with a detailed packing list for the trip after you are accepted onto the trip.

References

Articles:

• "The Fashion Executives Who Saved a Patagonian Paradise," Sierra, September 4, 2019: https://www.sierraclub.org/sierra/2019-5-september-october/feature/fashion-executives-who-saved-patagonian-paradise-doug-kris-tompkins
• "In National Parks is the Preservation of the World," Sierra, Kris Tompkins: https://www.sierraclub.org/sierra/national-parks-preservation-world 
• "A Wilderness Like No Other: Chile’s New Patagonia National Park," Sierra, Robin Walter, February 7, 2018: https://www.sierraclub.org/sierra/wilderness-no-other-chile-s-new-patagonia-national-park 
• "Why Chile’s National Parks will be a Game Changer for Tourism," Guardian, Isabel Choat, September 26, 2019: https://www.theguardian.com/travel/2019/sep/26/patagonia-chile-routes-parks-national-tompkins 
• "With Ten Million Acres in Patagonia, a Park System is Born," New York Times, February 19, 2018: https://www.nytimes.com/2018/02/19/world/americas/patagonia-national-park-chile.html 
• "Protected Areas in Chilean Patagonia," an essay by one of Chile’s leading environmentalists, Carlos Cuevas, provides an introduction to the needs, and concerns, around large-scale conservation: https://rachelsnetwork.org/wp/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/PTW_reprint_Cuevas.pdf?_t=1547048666

Books:

• Unknown Patagonia is a photo eBook on Chile’s Aysén Region, produced by photographers who have been working down here for years. Even a quick flip-through will give you a sense of the place; the essays and captions are informative as well. Free: http://www.westerneye.com/assets/unknown_patagonia.pdf
• A Wildlife Guide to Chile by Sharon Chester, is the best all-around field guide for this area. You can put this onto an iPad or phone and carry it with you.
• In Patagonia by Bruce Chatwin, is a classic detailing a journey through Patagonia.

Streaming Services (Amazon, Netflix, Hulu, etc.)

• "The Pearl Button." This is a widely acclaimed documentary that weaves together various elements of Chilean history, including the Pinochet dictatorship and the indigenous peoples of southern Patagonia. 
• "Nostalgia for the Light" wrestles with the legacy of Pinochet, but with a focus on Chile’s northern deserts.
• "180 Degrees South" retraces the epic 1968 journey of Yvon Chouinard and Doug Tompkins to Patagonia. 

Links:

• Tompkins Conservation: http://www.tompkinsconservation.org/home.htm 
• Route of Parks of Patagonia: https://www.rutadelosparques.org/en/#
• Patagonia Park: http://www.patagoniapark.org/parque_patagonia.htm 

Conservation

Due to its rugged landscape of mountains and glaciers, Chilean Patagonia is characterized by a wealth of river water. A large hydroelectric entity, HidroAysen, began an enormous plan and campaign to dam two of Aysen’s largest rivers in the early part of this century. The plan was highly controversial, and shaped both the region and Chile’s environmental movement as a whole. After years of protest, environmentalists won a huge victory in 2014 when the energy companies abandoned the project. But that is not to say that the project will not be revived in the future. 

Developing a huge swath of national parks in Patagonia may seem like a huge success in itself, but the impact on the traditional local lifestyle was significant. In an effort to re-wild the Valle Chacabuco landscape, which now forms the centerpiece of the new park, Conservación Patagonica removed 25,000 sheep, 5,000 cattle, and 400 miles of fence, moving what once was Chile’s third-largest sheep ranch out of production and into conservation. Gauchos and ranchers were invested in the sheep and cattle economy in the area; taking the livestock away as well as protecting the puma that was a key component of the conservation initiative did not seem to be a great idea to the locals. It was also an affront to the traditional cultural identity. There were a number of protests about the national park development over the last decade by the ranchers, proclaiming that the national parks would destroy their lifestyle and incomes. We will have the opportunity on our horse-packing trip to learn first-hand about the concerns and compromises that have taken place over the years.

The creation of Patagonia National Park is one of the biggest conservation success stories in history—and it’s as controversial as it is ambitious. The vision for the park had been spearheaded by American conservationist Kristine Tompkins and her late husband, Doug Tompkins (he was cofounder of The North Face clothing company, she was its CEO), who donated 1 million acres of private land to the park. The new national park represents a monumental shift in how humans will interact with this landscape. As such, the project has sparked furious debate. Some people have resisted the conversion of rangeland to wilderness preservation, while others have embraced this evolution. 

The designation of national park creates the highest form of environmental protection, though without proper funding, this can mean little. Chilean Patagonia, with its network of 17 national parks known as the Route of Parks, is now home to 91 percent of the country’s territory protected as parkland. But the region lacks essential funding for national park infrastructure, trails, and management—all of which is needed to fuel economic development in gateway communities and set the foundation for long-term conservation. For this reason, Tompkins Conservation joined Chile’s President Sebastián Piñera and the Pew Charitable Trusts in May to set in motion the “Route of Parks Fund: Protecting Patagonia Forever,” to create a large public-private fund to protect this extraordinary 1,700-mile route. We have ample proof that the global decline in nature has reached rates unprecedented in human history. When it comes to protecting nature, we must think bigger than ever before.

The benefits of national parks do not stop at their boundaries. They can boost the local economy, providing jobs in tourism or conservation-related activities. In the United States, for every dollar invested in national parks, $10 returns to the economy in recreation and tourism spending. But there’s much more. Science shows that national parks are a vital tool in addressing climate change. A 2017 study published by the National Academy of Sciences indicates that natural climate solutions such as land and water conservation can provide over one-third of the climate mitigation needed between now and 2030 to stabilize global warming. Pumalín-Douglas Tompkins National Park alone sequesters an estimated 228 million metric tons of carbon in its soil and vegetation. In the same year in which Chile will host the World Climate Summit, the country’s commitment to its national parks marks a crucial step forward in supporting the health of the planet. 

Aligned with the ranchers, the question of the Chilean government’s new responsibility for the National Parks is of huge concern. The Chilean government does not have the funding that Tomkins Conservation had to support all the re-wilding and protection efforts that were initiated. And while Tompkins Conservation is still working with the government in the transition, at some point it will be completely up to Chile to maintain the parks. Chile has a public-private entity called CONAF that is more of a forestland management company that will manage the parks and many are concerned that they do not have the training nor ability to be conservation stewards.

The Sierra Club is an environmentally focused entity. We are concerned about conservation and sustainability of resources, both locally and globally. Our work is accomplished by volunteers and aided by a salaried staff, encouraging grassroots involvement. Our outings seek to empower participants toward environmentally understanding parallel concerns at home and abroad. On this trip to remote Patagonia we will have many opportunities to explore, discuss, and debate conservation initiatives with Chileans and amongst ourselves to expand our knowledge and appreciation.

Evacuation and Travel Insurance

The Sierra Club provides evacuation insurance to all participants on international trips. Since this coverage does not include any trip cancellation or interruption insurance, we suggest you purchase another policy separately to provide coverage for your trip and other travel costs. This policy also does not cover pre-trip and post-trip travel. Please note the evacuation insurance provided does not cover claims resulting from any pre-existing condition that occurs within 60 days of the trip departure. If you have specific questions about this exclusion, please review the insurance brochure. For information on purchasing a separate policy, please see our travel insurance page.