Wildlife and Wonder at the Top of the World, Arctic National Wildlife Refuge, Alaska

Our trip will begin with a scheduled flight from Fairbanks to Arctic Village. From there, we will take a bush flight to the edge of the Brooks Range, landing on the East Fork for the Chandalar River. The entire trip is trail-less, aside from those made by the bears and caribou. Therefore, we will walk along arctic tundra as we make our way across the crest and ridges of the Brooks Range. 

Our route will lead us through the Refuge in the last days of summer as we hope to catch the final migration of the Porcupine caribou herd returning south after calving on the north slope. From the Chandalar River we will head west, hiking through remote snow-capped peaks and encountering different wildlife such as Dall sheep, and hopefully musk ox and wolves. As we make our way west, we’ll pass across the Cane and Water Rivers as we traverse along the crest of the Brooks Range, taking layover days to explore the untouched mountains and natural majesty of the Brooks Range. Upon our return, we will meet our bush pilot along the Marsh fork of the Canning River and return to Arctic Village and then Fairbanks.

While the entire planned route is less than 65 miles, our actual route is subject to change based on the condition of the tundra and the weather, as well as the caribou migration. We cannot stress enough how unpredictable the weather can be in this area. To experience the long days and lighting in the late afternoon, we will likely begin hiking about 9 a.m. and stop about 5 p.m., with ample time to enjoy the wilderness along the way. However, close to 20 hours of daylight gives us flexibility to adjust our schedule as necessary due to the weather conditions. We will have abundant side hike options to fill in our days (and nights) if we choose to do so.

Getting There

We will fly north via a scheduled regional airline from Fairbanks to the Gwich'in settlement of Arctic Village. From there we will shuttle the group via a three-passenger bush plane over the Brooks Range to a remote tundra strip, nestled on the east fork of the Chandalar River. This flight is truly spectacular. 

When planning travel to Fairbanks, keep in mind that airlines still manage to lose baggage going to Alaska. Therefore, we suggest planning at least an extra day in Fairbanks on either end of our trip to give your airline a window of opportunity to find your lost baggage. If your baggage does not arrive in time, there is an excellent outfitter in Fairbanks that can solve most missing gear issues.

On the last day of the trip we will return to Fairbanks late in the afternoon using a bush plane from where the Cane and Red Sheep Rivers meet the Chandalar River and a scheduled flight from Arctic Village. We don’t recommend scheduling a flight out from Fairbanks on the last day due to the uncertainty of arctic bush travel. We also recommend not scheduling any critical, can’t-possibly-miss activities the week we return. We hope to return on time, but it is not uncommon to have weather and/or water levels that result in us coming out of the wilderness a day later than planned.

Please do not make non-refundable travel arrangements until notified to do so by the trip leader.

Accommodations and Food

We will supply all meals, starting with lunch on the first day and ending with lunch on the final day. We will be able to recommend several nice places to stay in Fairbanks at the beginning and end of the trip.

Trip Difficulty

This is not a trip for beginning backpackers. Our packs will be approximately 40-50 lbs for this 10-day hike. This trip will be an immersion into the ever-changing weather of the arctic. Hot, sweaty days in the sun are often followed by cold rain and snow. Participants over 70 years old will be particularly challenged by this route. All participants must commit to pre-trip conditioning and some previous experience; hiking in Alaskan-type weather and terrain is ideal but not required. You need good stamina, strength, balance, a high comfort level with uneven terrain, and most importantly, an adventurous spirit. We will hike in shallow water, across soft river beds, and over very slippery surfaces, even in snow. We will always hike as a group and help each other through the difficult parts. Especially given the remote location, safety will be the top priority. Depending on the weather, our route may require us to cross large streams, though if water levels are too high, we will find a different route or wait for the water level to go down. 

One of the responsibilities of the leaders is to ensure that all participants have the required gear and are sufficiently physically fit to do this trip. We are more than happy to discuss gear options, fitness level, route conditions, and pre-trip conditioning strategies.

Equipment and Clothing

Hiking Boots:

Our feet will likely be wet every single day on the trail. We will cross streams over the height of our boots nearly every day multiple times. There is no reasonable way to change to stream crossing footwear, but there are several options for waterproof socks that can keep feet warm. We will share more details on footwear in a later email. Bottom line: a mid-weight leather hiking boot is an effective choice for most people. 

Weight:

We cannot overemphasize the importance of minimizing the weight of your loaded backpack. We ask that your fully configured pack without water or commissary weigh less than 30 pounds. Lighter is better. We encourage you to set your goal for 25 pounds if at all possible. Our packs weigh as little as 25 pounds including the extra gear we carry on the group’s behalf. In our pre trip meeting in Fairbanks, we will inspect gear and weigh packs. This is the only way we can ensure that every participant has everything they need (and nothing that they don’t need!). We will send a file with the gear requirements and will provide comprehensive specific gear recommendations and suggestions as optional reading.

Dry Sacks:

We suggest packing in dry sacks for everything you want to keep dry. Trash bags and pack covers may not be sufficient. Recommended manufacturers are Outdoor Research or Sea to Summit. Note that there are lightweight coated nylon dry sacks and very lightweight (sil-nylon) dry sacks. We highly encourage you to use the mid-weight dry sacks for critical gear. 

Water Purification:

Everyone must bring at least two one-quart water bottles or a dromedary. Our water supply will often be glacial till laden streams and potholes. We will treat all water with chlorine-based disinfectant tablets except that used for cooking. Disinfectant is included in the commissary and will be distributed at the beginning of the trip. You need not bring your own. Filters can work but are subject to clogs and are heavy. Some of the water will have significant silt and will clog most filters quickly if they are not field cleanable. 

References

• Miller, Debbie S., Midnight Wilderness.
• Marshall, Robert, Exploring the Central Brooks Range.
• Lopez, Barry, Arctic Dreams.
• Kauffmann, John M., Alaska's Brooks Range.
• McPhee, John, Coming into the Country.
• Peilou, E.C., A Naturalist's Guide to the Arctic.

Conservation

The Arctic National Wildlife Refuge, immediately adjacent to the National Petroleum Reserve, is the country’s largest wildlife refuge (over 19 million acres). The area was first protected in the 1960s and later grew in size. However, like so many places, the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge is threatened by pressure to drill for oil, and this pressure has intensified in recent years. A changing climate is also contributing to changes in this area. Polar bears are forced off the dwindling sea ice and move inland, altering the predator/prey ecosystem. Our journey will be intertwined with discussions about migration patterns, flora, fauna, the ancient history of this land, and the potential changes that this refuge faces in the future.

A central aim of this trip is to introduce the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge and surrounding regions to future stewards of this land. To travel through this pristine land, taking in the changes of weather and the activities of spring, is to truly know the importance of preserving such a wild place.

Sierra Club National Outings is an equal-opportunity provider and when applicable will operate under permits obtained from U.S. federal land agencies.