World-Class Whitewater: Rafting the Middle Fork of the Salmon River, Idaho

"Keep close to Nature's heart ... and break clear away, once in a while, and climb a mountain or spend a week in the woods. Wash your spirit clean." — John Muir

We'll raft 100 miles of the Wild and Scenic Middle Fork, from our launch near Stanley, Idaho to the confluence with the Main Salmon. With an average gradient of 27 feet per mile, the Middle Fork guarantees boaters an exciting whitewater roller coaster ride through its scenic canyons. The river moves through a variety of ecosystems; from alpine forest to high mountain desert to sheer, rock-walled canyon, the third-deepest in North America.

When we're not running the river's many Class 3-4 rapids, we'll explore the surrounding Frank Church-River of No Return Wilderness, the wild heart of the largest complex of temperate zone wildlands remaining in North America. We'll take ample time to appreciate the remarkable geologic formations, gurgling hot springs, diverse forests, abundant wildlife, and brilliant wildflowers of the Salmon River Mountains. Not much has changed along the Middle Fork since the days when the Tukudeka (or Sheepeater) Indians lived along its banks. This is truly a primitive river -- wild, uncontrolled by dams, transformed only by the whims of nature. Unlike most rivers, it flows due north and has shaped its course through a land so rugged that all attempts at settlement have failed. There are no roads leading to its banks, and little remains of man's brief presence other than prehistoric rock art, a few lodges, and some dilapidated cabins. Lewis and Clark passed near here in 1804 on their search for the Pacific, but the rugged mountains of the Middle Fork's wilderness forced them to seek a passage farther to the north.

Once we hit the water, we travel on river time -- letting the river, wildlife-viewing possibilities, and our general mood set the daily schedule. This allows us to take advantage of any opportunities that may arise. Leave your watch behind and go with the flow. We float about five or six hours each day, taking time out for lunch, hiking, swimming, checking out hot springs, or visiting historic sites. At camp, there is ample time to hike side canyons, take pictures, read, write, or simply admire the landscape. The Middle Fork is a world-renowned catch-and-release fly-fishing destination, famous for “gin-clear” water and abundant cutthroat trout. Single barbless hooks are required and no bait is allowed. Please pack your rod in a sturdy container and obtain an Idaho fishing license before the trip.

All Sierra Club domestic trips, in the past/present, have been/are conducted on originally Ingenious tribal lands. Historically, these lands have been occupied by the Tuka-Deka (BigHorn Sheep Eaters) and the Agai-Deka (Salmon Eaters), along with the Pohogues (Shoshone-Bannock), the Agaidika (Lemhi-Shoshone), and the Nimiipuu (Nez Perce) tribes. Throughout their time in the canyon, they hunted, gathered, and made their mark on the land in various ways with their house depressions, artifacts, and pictographs. We acknowledge that these lands were considered sacred, and in many cases these peoples were forcibly removed from their homelands. Sierra Club Outings has made a commitment to acknowledge this past colonial history in our domestic trip brochures and continues to embrace the traditional Native values of honoring and protecting our Mother Earth. As we follow the river downstream, we remember we are guests on this land and respect those who came before us.

This trip is being offered through ARTA River Trips, an authorized permit holder on the Salmon-Challis National Forest.

Day 1: Day one of our outing we meet in Stanley, Idaho to first explore this quaint Western town and its surroundings. An evening orientation meeting with our river guides prepares us for rafting the next morning. Our outfitter will shuttle us between Stanley and the river at the start and conclusion of our trip.

Days 2-7: Early morning we gather for the two-hour ride to the put-in at Boundary Creek. The Middle Fork is diverse and unpredictable -- sometimes flowing gently, sometimes churning and chaotic -- but always mesmerizing. In the upper reaches, the creek-like stream cascades over rocky ledges and winds through a dense evergreen forest. Our launch point at Boundary Creek is 6,000 feet above sea level, not far from the melting snows that continue to carve this splendid canyon waterway. Surrounded by a verdant conifer forest scenting the high mountain air, we begin our journey.

The first miles are swift, narrow, and challenging. As we travel along, tributary creeks bring more and more water to the river, which grows wider and deeper. The river quadruples in water volume from the start of our trip to the end. Throughout the 100-mile course of the trip, we encounter over 40 major rapids while dropping a total of 3,000 feet in elevation. Some rapids remain unnamed and pose little difficulty, even for beginning river runners. Others have not just names, but long histories of epic adventure. The middle section is more open and arid, with longer vistas of expansive hillsides, rocky outcroppings, and isolated stands of giant pines. In some places, the river becomes wide and shallow; in others, it forms deep-blue pools. We can follow native cutthroat and rainbow trout swimming beneath us.

The lower stretch is awe-inspiring, as the river cuts through the impressive, sheer rock walls of Impassable Canyon. For 27 miles, we are in a narrow, granite-walled gorge of spectacular dimension. The constriction of the river, coupled with the large volume of water, make for the biggest rapids of the trip. But the Middle Fork provides plenty of excitement all along the way, with rapids that range from short, abrupt drops to long, technical boulder fields. Sulphur Slide, Velvet Falls, Powerhouse, Pistol Creek, Haystack, Tappan Falls, Redside, Rubber Rapid, Devil's Tooth, and Hancock are only a few of this river's better-known rapids.

Rafts and -- possibly -- inflatable kayaks will carry us downstream. The oar rafts carry all of our overnight gear and up to five participants. They are rowed by an experienced guide using oars attached to a frame. We hang on during the rapids and relax during calmer stretches. Paddle rafts are smaller boats and carry six paddlers, who paddle through the rapids and down the river. Everyone has a paddle, sits on the raft's tubes, and follows the commands of the paddle guide, who sits in the rear.

If water levels permit and if there is sufficient interest from members, we may bring inflatable kayaks. These boats are 10- to 12-feet long and are paddled by one or two people using double-bladed paddles. They are fairly stable and allow you to feel the thrill of "reading" and negotiating the rapids on your own. Trip members may freely switch boats -- one morning relaxing on the oar boat taking photographs and the next actively participating on the paddle raft or kayak. You must let the leader know at least a month in advance of the departure date of your boat preferences. Please note: the availability of these options is dependent upon water levels and safety considerations.

Please note, the trip price does not include gratuities for the river guides. Gratuities are entirely voluntary and solely at your discretion, but they are customary. The guides work hard day and night to make this trip as memorable and fulfilling for you as possible. If you agree they worked hard and contributed significantly to the success and enjoyment of your outing, you may want to express your appreciation with a tip. A guideline of 9-18% of the trip price per guest is appropriate. Your Sierra Club trip leader does not share any portion of the gratuity; leaders are unpaid volunteers and cannot accept them.

Getting There

Stanley is a small town (population 69; elevation 6,500 feet) 130 miles (three hours) northeast of Boise, at the junction of State Highways 21 and 75 in the center of the Sawtooth National Recreation Area, the Sawtooth Valley, and the spectacular Sawtooth Basin. 

The trip leader will be happy to provide you with option for you to plan your trip to Idaho. There are a number of transportation options, including flying into Stanley, shuttle service from Boise, rental cars, and personal cars.

Transportation from Stanley to the put-in and back from the take-out is included in the trip price. All other transportation, lodging, and dining costs are not included and are at the expense of each participant. Please do not make non-refundable travel arrangements until notified to do so by the trip leader.

Accommodations and Food

Please plan to arrive in Stanley before noon the first day of the trip. The trip leader will be happy to help with your reservations for the nights before and after the trip, but the cost of meals and lodging in Stanley are not included in the trip price.

Days 2-6, we will camp alongside the river on beaches or flat benches above the river. All of our campsites have spectacular views of the river and canyon. We follow Leave No Trace guidelines for river corridors to minimize our impact on this fragile environment, including using chemical toilets for solid human waste. There will be no plumbed or pit toilets available on the river.

All meals, from lunch on Day 2 to lunch on the last, are included in the trip price. We will eat very well, thanks to the amazing carrying capacity of our rafts and plenty of cooler space. Delicious, well-balanced meals with fresh fruit and vegetables will be cooked every day in camp. Breakfasts may include French toast, pancakes, eggs, or Dutch oven-baked muffins. Lunches will often consist of build-your-own sandwiches, with ripe avocado, tomato, and lettuce to top them off. We'll enjoy everything from Italian to Mexican for dinner, often with fresh-baked brownies or cake for dessert. 

Beverages provided will include drinking water, lemonade, coffee, tea, and hot chocolate. You may wish to bring your own sodas or other favorite beverages in plastic bottles, cans, or wine boxes. No glass is allowed on the river trip and no alcohol is allowed during the day or while on the river. This is for your safety, and the safety and enjoyment of others.

The guides will do the cooking, but you are welcome to help out in the kitchen if you wish. This trip is vegetarian-friendly. Please inform the leader of any dietary restrictions or special requests well in advance of our departure date.

Trip Difficulty

The minimum age for this trip is 12 (18 if traveling solo). This trip is suitable for new river runners and experienced rafters alike. On the international scale of I (easy) to VI (unrunnable), the Middle Fork offers Class III-IV rapids. Most of the named rapids are Class III-plus, and several are Class IV. This trip should be considered an "active" vacation, as you will pack/unpack your gear, help unload the rafts, set up your tent, participate in side hikes, and possibly paddle. These activities, taken together in a wilderness environment, can be physically demanding. Our land explorations will range from easy walks to more difficult hikes requiring some scrambling ability. Although all hikes are optional, good physical condition is important in any wilderness outing. We strongly recommend that you engage in a program of regular exercise prior to the trip.

Weather in the mountains of Idaho can be unpredictable. Summer temperatures can range from the 40s and 50s at night to 90 degrees during the day. Brief thunderstorms can roll in at any time. Waterproof outerwear is essential. To accommodate weather changes, clothing should work well in layers.

The water temperature of the river is 55-60 degrees. Our day-to-day itinerary on the river is flexible and will depend on river levels, weather conditions, and the inclination of trip members. The total trip length will remain the same.

Equipment and Clothing

Your leader will provide a detailed equipment list upon acceptance to the trip. One large 65L waterproof dry bag -- the size of a large duffel bag – will be issued to each participant to carry your camp gear and clothing downstream, and a small waterproof day bag to hold sunscreen, binoculars, rain gear, camera or cell phone, or other things you might want to keep handy while on the water. Rental gear available includes a "sleep kit" with sleeping bag, liner, ground cloth, and inflatable pad. Dome-type, two-person tents may be rented as well, if you do not own (or do not wish to transport) your own gear. Information about rental fees will be provided by the trip leader. Fishing licenses are required; you can buy one in Stanley. You will need to bring your own gear and tackle if you want to fish. The Middle Fork is a "catch and release" river, and all fish must be released alive.

Please leave electronics, jewelry, and valuables at home. Essentials (wallet with ID, credit cards, etc.) can travel in the bottom of the large waterproof bag containing your clothing or have the hotel safe keep them for you while you're on the river. Consider purchasing your own waterproof map/guidebook for the river to track our progress down the river, read about the geology and historical sites we pass, and create a personal memento of your adventure.

References

Books:

This outing is unique in many ways, and it will enhance your experience to learn about the natural and human history of the area. The following books will get you started:

• Burks, David Clarke (ed.), Place of the Wild: A Wildlands Anthology. Thoughtful collection of essays focusing on the protection of wilderness and biodiversity.
• Carrey, Johnny, and Cort Conley, The Middle Fork, A Guide. Middle Fork's natural and human history.
• Quinn, James, et al., Handbook to the Middle Fork of the Salmon River. A mile-by-mile guide to the river, with notes on its natural and human history.
• Nash, Roderick, The Big Drops: Ten Legendary Rapids of the American West. Stories of running the West's biggest rapids, including Redside on the Middle Fork.
• Palmer, Tim, Wild and Scenic Rivers of America. Details the history, management, and successes of the Wild and Scenic Rivers Act.
• Wolf, Edward C., and Seth Zuckerman (eds.), Salmon Nation: People and Fish at the Edge. Concise history of the salmon situation with great maps and a vision for the future.

Websites:

• Frank Church maps and an inexpensive, waterproof river guide: www.publiclands.org
• U.S. Forest Service information about the Frank Church Wilderness: www.fs.fed.us/r4/sc/
• Idaho Conservation League focuses on protecting wildlands: www.wildidaho.org
• Idaho Rivers United works to protect Idaho's wild rivers: www.idahorivers.org

Conservation

"Something will have gone out of us as a people if we ever let the remaining wilderness be destroyed; if we permit the last virgin forests to be turned into comic books and plastic cigarette cases; if we drive the few remaining members of the wild species into zoos or to extinction; if we pollute the last clear air and dirty the last clean streams and push our paved roads through the last of the silence, so that never again will Americans be free in their own country from the noise, the exhaust fumes, the stinks of human and automotive waste." — Wallace Stegner, 1960

On October 2, 1968, the Wild and Scenic Rivers Act designated the Middle Fork of the Salmon one of the eight wild rivers initially to be included in the new National Wild and Scenic Rivers System. As a result, the river's remarkable beauty and wild character are much the same as they've been for thousands of years. Motor use, expanding tourism, mining activities, logging, intensive (and growing) exploitation of marine fisheries, and anticipated climate change due to the greenhouse effect all pose threats to Idaho's ecosystems. We will discuss past and present human impacts on the Middle Fork and its wild salmon runs, as well as efforts to restore healthy populations of wolves and bison in Idaho.

Rafting the Middle Fork Salmon is simply an experience of a lifetime. We hope you'll be inspired to protect other precious rivers, public lands, and natural resources, not only in Idaho, but in your home state as well. As John Muir saw it, the best way to persuade people to fight for wilderness was to take them into nature -- only then could they understand its true worth. It was Muir's philosophy that led to the creation of Sierra Club Outings in 1901 and the reason we're offering this trip again in 2023.

Sierra Club National Outings is an equal-opportunity provider and when applicable will operate under permits obtained from U.S. federal land agencies.